Frommer's Review
This huge wholesale fish market -- the largest in Japan and one of the largest in the world -- is a must for anyone who has never seen such a market in action. And the action here starts early: At about 3am, boats begin arriving from the seas around Japan, from Africa, and even from America, with enough fish to satisfy the demands of a nation where seafood reigns supreme. To give you some idea of its enormity, this market handles almost all the seafood -- about 450 kinds of seafood -- consumed in Tokyo. The king is tuna, huge and frozen, unloaded from the docks, laid out on the ground, and numbered. Wholesalers walk up and down the rows, jotting down the numbers of the best-looking tuna, and by 5:30am, the tuna auctions are well underway (however, the presence of too many tourists prompted authorities to close tuna auctions to visitors in 2005). The entire auction of sea products takes place about 4:40 to 6:30am, with auctions of vegetables at a corner of the market starting at 6:30am (refrain from photographing auctions). The wholesalers then transfer what they've bought to their own stalls in the market, subsequently selling fish and produce to their regular customers, usually retail stores and restaurants.
The market is held in a cavernous, hangarlike building, which means you can visit it even on a dismal rainy morning. There's a lot going on -- men in black rubber boots rushing wheelbarrows and carts through the aisles, hawkers shouting, knives chopping and slicing. Wander the aisles and you'll see things you never dreamed were edible. This is a good place to bring your camera: The people working here burst with pride if you single them out for a photograph. The floors are wet, so leave your fancy shoes at the hotel.
Tsukiji is also a good place to come if you want sushi for breakfast. Alongside the covered market are rows of barracklike buildings divided into sushi restaurants and shops related to the fish trade. In addition, as you walk the distance between the Tsukiji subway station and the fish market, you'll find yourself in a delightful district of tiny retail shops and stalls where you can buy the freshest seafood in town, plus dried fish and fish products, seaweed, vegetables, knives, and other cooking utensils. Warning: While walking through the retail district on our way from Tsukiji Market, my Japanese friend and I were warned several times by local shopkeepers to watch our purses, advice we didn't take lightly. Apparently, pickpockets have been at work here on unsuspecting tourists.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
