Attractions

Most visitors head first for the centro storico, the medieval core lying on the headland jutting into the sea. The most ancient part of this "casbah" was constructed in a typical North African style around a tightly knit maze of narrow streets. Originally these streets lay behind protective walls that guarded against sudden invasions from the sea.

The most intriguing street is Via Garibaldi (also known as Rua Nova, or "New Road"), which is flanked with churches and palaces. The Aragonese laid out this street in the 18th century. The best shops in the old town line Via Torrearsa, which leads down to a bustling pescheria (fish market) where tuna -- caught in nearby waters -- is king. The spacious central square, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, laid out in 1869 and planted with palm trees, is a relaxing oasis.

The pedestrianized main street of Trapani is Corso Vittorio Emanuele, sometimes called Rua Grande by the Trapanese. Many elegant baroque buildings are found along this street, which makes for a grand promenade. At the eastern end of the street rises the Palazzo Senatorio, the 17th-century town hall, done up in pinkish marble.

Along the way, you can visit the Cattedrale (tel. 0923-432111), open daily from 8am to 4pm. Built on the site of an earlier structure from the 14th century, the cathedral is dedicated to San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence) and has a 1743 facade. Artworks inside include a Crucifixion by Giacomo Lo Verde, a local artist, on the building's south side, fourth altar.

Another major church is Chiesa Santa Maria del Gesù, on Via San Pietro, with a facade that incorporates both Gothic and Renaissance features, dating from the first half of the 16th century. Its major work of art is a beautiful Madonna degli Angeli (Madonna with Angels), a glazed terra-cotta statue by Andrea della Robbia. Regrettably, the church is often closed.

Also worthy but perpetually closed is Chiesa di Sant'Agostino, Piazzetta Saturno, adjacent to the tourist office. This church is known for its lovely rose window from the 14th century, and even more so for occasional concerts staged here. Ask at the tourist office for details.

Another church in the heart of old town, Chiesa del Purgatorio, is in the 17th-century baroque style. In theory, it's open daily 8:30am to 12:30pm and 4 to 8pm. It's across from Stazione Marettima, 1 block up from Piazza Garibaldi. The entire atmosphere of this church remains medieval, with suffocating incense and otherworldly music. It houses the single greatest treasure in Trapani, however: the Misteri, 20 life-size wooden figures from the 18th century depicting Christ's Passion. Every bloody detail, including the Crucifixion, is shown.

A once major attraction, Torre di Ligny, built in 1671 as a defensive bastion on the tip of Trapani's "sickle," has closed its doors "for a very, very long time" -- so we were told.

Villa Margherita lies between old and new Trapani. These public gardens offer a welcome respite from a day of tramping the cobblestone streets. Fountains, banyan trees, and palms rustling in the wind make for an inviting oasis. Luglio Muscale Trapanese, a festival of opera, ballet, and cabaret, is staged here in July, with nightly shows at 9pm. A kiosk inside the park gates sells tickets for 5€ ($6.50). For information, call tel. 0923-21454.

Modern Trapani has two sights worth a visit; otherwise, you can skip it without cultural deprivation. Santuario dell'Annunziata is a 14th-century convent whose cloisters enclose the major museum of Trapani . The 14th-century church was forever altered in the 18th century by new decorators, although its Gothic portal remains, surmounted by a lovely rose window. The chapels are a treasure and include two dedicated to the fishermen of Trapani who risk their lives daily to harvest the sea. The major chapel to seek out is the Cappella della Madonna, with its sacred Virgin and Bambino, attributed to Nino Pisano in the 14th century. The bronze gates to the chapel are from 1591. On its left flank is Cappella dei Marinai, a tufa structure crowned by a dome and built in the Renaissance style.

Adjacent to the church is Trapani's major museum: Museo Regionale Pepoli, Via Conte Agostino Pepoli 200 (tel. 0923-553269), open Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm and Sunday 9am to 12:30pm. Admission is 4€ ($5.20). The former Carmelite convent has been converted into a showcase of regional art that emphasizes archaeological artifacts but also has a worthy collection of statues and coral carvings. The artistic Gagini family is better represented here than any other artist. Especially striking is St. James the Greater, by Antonello Gagini. The folk-art figurines are noteworthy, including a brutal depiction of the biblical legend of Herod's search for the Christ Child. Other works of art include a moving 14th-century Pietà by Roberto di Oderisio and some impressive triptychs by anonymous artists.