Getting There -- From Miami International Airport (there is also an airport in Marathon), take Le Jeune Road (NW 42nd Ave.) to Route 836 W. Follow signs to the Florida Turnpike S., about 7 miles. The turnpike extension connects with U.S. 1 in Florida City. Continue south on U.S. 1. For a scenic option, weather permitting, take Card Sound Road south of Florida City, a backcountry drive that reconnects with U.S. 1 in upper Key Largo. The view from Card Sound Bridge is spectacular and well worth the $1 toll.
If you're coming from Florida's west coast, take Alligator Alley to the Miami exit and then turn south onto the turnpike extension. The turnpike ends in Florida City, at which time you will be dumped directly onto the one-lane road, U.S. 1, which leads to the Keys. Have plenty of quarters (at least $10 worth, round-trip) for the tolls.
Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) has three buses leaving Miami for Key West every day, with stops in Key Largo, Tavenier, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key, Cudjoe Key, Sugarloaf, and Big Coppit on the way south. Prices range from $13 to $36 one-way and $26 to $67 round-trip; the trip takes from 1 hour and 40 minutes to 4 hours and 40 minutes, depending on how far south you're going. Seats fill quickly in season, so come early. It's first-come, first-served.
Visitor Information -- Make sure you get your information from an official, not-for-profit center. The Key Largo Chamber of Commerce, U.S. 1 at MM 106, Key Largo, FL 33037 (tel. 800/822-1088 or 305/451-1414; fax 305/451-4726; www.keylargo.org), runs an excellent facility, with free direct-dial phones and plenty of brochures. Headquartered in a handsome clapboard house, the chamber operates as an information clearinghouse for all of the Keys and is open daily from 9am to 6pm.
The Islamorada Chamber of Commerce, housed in a little red caboose, U.S. 1 at MM 82.5, P.O. Box 915, Islamorada, FL 33036 (tel. 800/322-5397 or 305/664-4503; fax 305/664-4289; www.islamoradachamber.com), offers maps and literature on the Upper Keys.
You can't miss the big blue visitor center at MM 53.5, Greater Marathon Chamber of Commerce, 12222 Overseas Hwy., Marathon, FL 33050 (tel. 800/262-7284 or 305/743-5417; fax 305/289-0183; www.floridakeysmarathon.com). Here you can receive free information on local events, festivals, shows, attractions, dining, and lodging.