Active Pursuits

There are literally hundreds of outfitters in the Keys who will arrange all kinds of water activities, from cave dives to parasailing. If those recommended below are booked up or unreachable, ask the local chamber of commerce for a list of qualified members.

Boating

In addition to the rental shops in the state parks, you'll find dozens of outfitters along U.S. 1 offering a range of runabouts and skiffs for boaters of any experience level. Captain Pip's, U.S. 1 at MM 47.5, Marathon (tel. 800/707-1692 or 305/743-4403; www.captainpips.com), charges $145 to $300 per day. Overnight accommodations are available and include a free boat rental: 2-night minimum $210 to $425; weekly $1,115 to $2,495. Rooms are Key West comfortable and charming, with ceiling fans, tile floors, and pine paneling. But the best part is that every room comes with an 18- to 21-foot boat for your use during your stay. Robbie's Rent-a-Boat, U.S. 1 at MM 77.5, Islamorada (tel. 305/664-9814; www.robbies.com), rents 18- to 26-foot motorboats with engines ranging from 60 to 130 horsepower. Boat rentals are $135 to $185 for a half-day, and $185 to $235 for a full day.

Canoeing & Kayaking

I can think of no better way to explore the uninhabited backcountry on the Gulf side of the Keys than by kayak or canoe, since you can reach places that big boats just can't get to because of their large draft. Manatees will sometimes cuddle up to the boats, thinking them to be another friendly species.

Many area hotels rent kayaks and canoes to guests, as do the outfitters listed here. Florida Bay Outfitters, U.S. 1 at MM 104, Key Largo (tel. 305/451-3018; www.kayakfloridakeys.com), rents canoes and sea kayaks for use in and around John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park for $35 to $45 for a half-day, $50 to $60 for a full day. At Coral Reef Park Co., U.S. 1 at MM 102.5, Key Largo (tel. 305/451-1621), you can rent canoes and kayaks for $12 per hour; most canoes are sit-on-tops. Florida Keys Kayak and Sail, U.S. 1 at MM 75.5, Islamorada (tel. 305/664-4878; www.floridakeyskayakandski), at Robbie's Pier, offers backcountry tours, botanical-preserve tours of Lignumvitae Key, historic-site tours of Indian Key, and sunset tours through the mangrove tunnels and saltwater flats. Tour rates are from $39 to $49; rental rates range from $15 per hour to $45 per day for a single kayak, and $20 per hour to $60 per day for a double kayak. Reflections Nature Tours (tel. 305/872-4668; www.floridakeyskayaktours.com) is a small mobile company that specializes in kayak tours through the Lower Keys. Guided kayak excursions cost $50 per person for a 3-hour tour, $40 per person for a 2-hour full-moon tour. The 3-hour custom tours start at $125 for one person and $195 for two people. All tours are by appointment only. Nature lovers can slip through the silent backcountry waters off Key West and the Lower Keys in a kayak, discovering the flora and fauna that make up the unique Keys ecosystem, on Blue Planet Kayak Tours' (tel. 305/294-8087; www.blue-planet-kayak.com) starlight tour. All excursions are led by an environmental scientist. The starlight tours last between 2 1/2 and 3 hours. No previous kayaking experience is necessary. Cost for the guided kayak adventure is $40 per person.

Diving & Snorkeling

Just 6 miles off Key Largo is a U.S. Navy Landing Ship Dock, the latest artificial wreck site to hit the Keys -- or, rather, to be submerged 130 feet below the Keys.

The Florida Keys Dive Center, U.S. 1 at MM 90.5, Tavernier (tel. 305/852-4599; www.floridakeysdivectr.com), takes snorkelers and divers to the reefs of John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and environs every day. PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) training courses are available for the uninitiated. While some people have complained that employees are rude here, others disagree; I suggest you decide for yourself. Tours leave at 8am and 12:30pm; the cost is $35 per person to snorkel (plus $10 rental fee for mask, snorkel, and fins), and $50 per person to dive (plus an extra $24 if you need to rent all the gear).

At Hall's Dive Center & Career Institute, U.S. 1 at MM 48.5, Marathon (tel. 305/743-5929; www.hallsdiving.com), snorkelers and divers can dive at Looe Key, Sombrero Reef, Delta Shoal, Content Key, or Coffins Patch. Tours are scheduled daily at 9am and 1pm. You'll spend 1 hour at each of two sites per tour. It's $45 per person to snorkel (gear included) and $55 per person to dive (tanks $8.50 each).

Fishing

Robbie's Partyboats & Charters, U.S. 1 at MM 77.5, Islamorada (tel. 305/664-8070 or 305/664-8498;www.robbies.com), located at Robbie's Marina on Lower Matecumbe Key, offers day and night deep-sea and reef-fishing trips aboard a 65-foot party boat. Big-game fishing charters are also available, and "splits" are arranged for solo fishers. Party-boat fishing costs about $35 for a half-day morning tour ($3 for rod and reel rental); it's $20 extra if you want to go back out on an afternoon tour. Charters run about $700 for a half-day, $900 for a full day; splits begin at $120 per person. Phone for information and reservations.

Bud n' Mary's Fishing Marina, U.S. 1 at MM 79.8, Islamorada (tel. 800/742-7945 or 305/664-2461; www.budnmarys.com), one of the largest marinas between Miami and Key West, is packed with sailors offering backcountry fishing charters. This is the place to go if you want to stalk tarpon, bonefish, and snapper. If the seas are not too rough, deep-sea and coral fishing trips can also be arranged. Charters cost $500 to $550 for a half-day, $750 to $800 for a full day; splits begin at $125 per person.