Active Pursuits

Sports Rent, 950 Government St. (tel. 250/385-7368; www.sportsrentbc.com), is a great general equipment and watersports rental outlet.

Beaches

The most popular beach is Oak Bay's Willows Beach, at Beach and Dalhousie roads along the esplanade. The park, playground, and snack bar make it a great place to spend the day building a sand castle. Gyro Beach Park, Beach Road on Cadboro Bay, is another good spot for winding down. At the Ross Bay Beaches, below Beacon Hill Park, you can stroll or bike along the promenade at the water's edge.

For a taste of the wild and rocky west coast, hike the oceanside trails in beautiful East Sooke Regional Park. Take Hwy. 14A west, turn south on Gillespie Road, and then take East Sooke Road.

Two inland lakes give you the option of swimming in fresh water. Elk and Beaver Lake Regional Park, on Patricia Bay Road, is 11km (6 3/4 miles) north of downtown Victoria; to the west is Thetis Lake, about 10km (6 1/4 miles; Hwy. 1 to exit 10 or 1A onto Old Island Hwy. 14, turn right at Six Mile Pub and follow the signs), where locals shed all their clothes but none of their civility.

Biking

Biking is one of the best ways to get around Victoria. The 13km (8-mile) Scenic Marine Drive bike path begins at Dallas Road and Douglas Street, at the base of Beacon Hill Park. The paved path follows the walkway along the beaches before winding up through the residential district on Beach Drive. It eventually turns left and heads south toward downtown Victoria on Oak Bay Avenue. The Inner Harbour pedestrian path has a bike lane for cyclists who want to take a leisurely ride around the entire city seawall. The new Galloping Goose Trail (part of the Trans-Canada Trail) runs from Victoria west through Colwood and Sooke all the way up to Leechtown. If you don't want to bike the whole thing, you can park at numerous places along the way, as well as several places where the trail intersects with public transit. Contact B.C. Transit (tel. 250/382-6161; www.bctransit.com) to find out which bus routes take bikes. Bikes and child trailers are available at Cycle B.C. rentals, 950 Wharf St. (May-Oct; tel. 250/885-2453; www.cyclebc.ca). Rentals run C$7 (£3.50) per hour and C$24 (£12) per day; helmets and locks included.

Birding

The Victoria Natural History Society (www.vicnhs.bc.ca) runs regular weekend birding excursions. Their event line (tel. 250/479-2054) lists upcoming outings and gives contact numbers. Goldstream Provincial Park and the village of Malahat -- both off Hwy. 1 about 40 minutes north of Victoria -- are filled with dozens of varieties of migratory and local birds, including eagles. Elk and Beaver Lake Regional Park, off Hwy. 17, has some rare species such as the rose-breasted grosbeak and Hutton's vireo. Ospreys also nest there. Cowichan Bay, off Hwy. 1, is the perfect place to observe ospreys, bald eagles, great egrets, and purple martins.

Boating, Canoeing & Kayaking

Ocean River Sports, 1437 Store St. (tel. 800/909-4233 or 250/381-4233; www.oceanriver.com), can equip you with everything from a single or double kayak, or a canoe to life jackets, tents, and dry-storage camping gear. Rental costs for a single kayak range from C$25 (£12) for 2 hours to C$40 (£20) per day. Multiday and weekly rates are also available. The company also offers numerous guided tours of the Gulf Islands and the coast. For beginners, try the guided 4 1/2-hour Explore Tour of the coast around Victoria or Sooke for C$115 (£57). They also offer a guided 3-day/2-night trip to the nearby Gulf Islands for C$595 (£297).

Rowboats, kayaks, and canoes are available for hourly or daily rental from Great Pacific Adventures, 811 Wharf St. (tel. 877/733-6722 or 250/386-2277; www.greatpacificadventures.com).

Blackfish Wilderness Expeditions (tel. 250/216-2389; www.blackfishwilderness.com) offers a number of interesting kayak-based tours such as the kayak/boat/hike combo, where you boat to the protected waters of the Discovery Islands, hike one of the islands, and kayak to see the pods of resident killer whales that roam the waters around Victoria. Day tours start at C$70 (£35) per person.

Diving

The coastline of Pacific Rim National Park is known as "the graveyard of the Pacific." Submerged in the water are dozens of 19th- and 20th-century shipwrecks and the marine life that has taken up residence in them. Underwater interpretive trails help identify what you see in the artificial reefs. If you want to take a look for yourself, contact Great Ocean Adventures, 1636 Cedar Hill Crossroad (tel. 800/414-2202 or 250/475-2202; www.greatoceanadventures.com), or the Ogden Point Dive Centre, 199 Dallas Rd. (tel. 250/380-9119; www.divevictoria.com). Through Great Ocean Adventures, head-to-toe equipment rental costs about C$60 (£30) for 1 day, and dive trips start at C$75 (£37). The Saanich Inlet, about a 20-minute drive north of Victoria, is a pristine fjord considered one of the top cold-water diving areas in the world (glass sponges are a rarity found only here). Classes and underwater scuba adventures can be arranged through Brentwood Bay Lodge & Spa, Canada's only luxury PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) dive resort.

Fishing

Saltwater fishing's the thing out here, but unless you know the area, it's best to take a guide. Adam's Fishing Charters (tel. 250/370-2326; www.adamsfishingcharters.com) is located on the Inner Harbour down below the Visitor Info Centre. Chartering a boat and guide starts at C$95 (£47) per hour per boat, with a minimum of 5 hours.

To fish, you need a saltwater fishing license. Licenses (including the salmon surcharge) for nonresidents cost C$7.50 (£3.75) for 1 day, C$20 (£10) for 3 days, and C$33 (£16) for 5 days. Tackle shops sell licenses, have details on current restrictions, and often carry copies of the B.C. Tidal Waters Sport Fishing Guide and B.C. Sport Fishing Regulations Synopsis for Non-Tidal Waters. Independent anglers should also pick up the B.C. Fishing Directory and Atlas. Robinson's Sporting Goods Ltd., 1307 Broad St. (tel. 250/385-3429), is a reliable source for information, recommendations, lures, licenses, and gear. For the latest fishing hot spots and recommendations on tackle and lures, check out www.sportfishingbc.com. You'll find official fishing information at the Fisheries and Oceans Canada website, www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca.

Golfing

Victoria's Scottish heritage doesn't stop at the tartan shops. The greens here are as beautiful as those at St. Andrews. The Cedar Hill Municipal Golf Course, 1400 Derby Rd. (tel. 250/595-3103; www.golfcedarhill.com), the busiest course in Canada, is an 18-hole, par-67 public course 3km (1 3/4 miles) from downtown Victoria. It's open on a first-come, first-served basis; daytime weekday greens fees are C$40 (£20) and twilight fees (after 3pm) are C$25 (£12). Golf clubs can be rented for C$15 (£7.50). The Cordova Bay Golf Course, 5333 Cordova Bay Rd. (tel. 250/658-4075; www.cordovabaygolf.com), is northeast of the downtown area. Designed by Bill Robinson, the par-71, 18-hole course features 66 sand traps and some tight fairways. Greens fees are C$46 to C$69 (£23-£34) depending on day and season; twilight fees range from C$39 to C$55 (£19-£27).

The Olympic View Golf Club, 643 Latoria Rd. (tel. 250/474-3673; www.golfbc.com/courses/olympic_view), is one of the top 35 golf courses in Canada. Amid 12 lakes and a pair of waterfalls, this 18-hole, par-72, 6,414-yard course is open daily year-round. Daytime greens fees, depending on day and season, are C$40 to C$80 (£20-£40) and twilight fees are C$20 to C$50 (£10-£25). Power carts cost an additional C$17 (£8.50).

The new star of Vancouver Island golf courses, and the most expensive to play, is the 18-hole, 7,212-yard, par-72 course designed by Jack Nicklaus and his son for Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa, 1999 Country Club Way (tel. 888/533-2327 or 250/744-2327 tee time bookings). Golf carts (included with fee) and collared shirts (blue jeans not permitted) are mandatory on this upscale, mountaintop course that features breathtaking views and a spectacular 19th hole for recreational betting. Nonmember greens fees, depending on when you reserve and the time you play, range from C$65 to C$145 (£32-£72).

You can call Last Minute Golf Hot Line at tel. 800/684-6344 for substantial discounts and short-notice tee times. Island Links Hot Line at tel. 866/266-GOLF acts as a booking agent for courses around Vancouver Island and will provide transportation from your hotel to the course.

Hiking

Goldstream Provincial Park (30 min. west of downtown along Hwy. 1) is a tranquil site for a short hike through towering cedars and past clear, rushing waters.

The hour-long hike up Mount Work provides excellent views of the Saanich Peninsula and a good view of Finlayson Arm. The trail head is a 30- to 45-minute drive. Take Hwy. 17 north to Saanich, then take Hwy. 17A (the W. Saanich Rd.) to Wallace Drive, turn right on Willis Point Drive, and right again on the Ross-Durrance Road, looking for the parking lot on the right. Signs are posted along the way. Equally good, though more of a scramble, is the hour-plus climb up Mount Finlayson in Gowland-Tod Provincial Park (take Hwy. 1 west, get off at the Millstream Rd. exit, and follow Millstream Rd. north to the very end).

The very popular Sooke Potholes trail wanders up beside a river to an abandoned mountain lodge. Take Hwy. 1A west to Colwood, then Hwy. 14A (the Sooke Rd.). At Sooke, turn north on Sooke River Road, and follow it to the park.

For a taste of the wild and rocky west coast, hike the oceanside trails in beautiful East Sooke Regional Park. Take Hwy. 14A west, turn south on Gillespie Road, and then take East Sooke Road.

For serious backpacking, go 104km (65 miles) west of Victoria on Hwy. 14A to Port Renfrew and the challenging West Coast Trail, extending 77km (48 miles) from Port Renfrew to Bamfield in a portion of Pacific Rim National Park. The trail was originally a lifesaving trail for shipwrecked sailors. Plan a 7-day trek for the entire route; reservations are required, so call tel. 604/663-6000. The trail is rugged and often wet, but the scenery changes from old-growth forest to magnificent secluded sand beaches, making it worth every step. You may even spot a few whales along the way. Robinson's Outdoor Store, 1307 Broad St. (tel. 250/385-3429; www.robinsonsoutdoors.com), is a good place to gear up before you go. At Robinson's, ask about the newer, less challenging 48km-long (30-mile) Juan de Fuca Marine Trail connecting Port Renfrew and the Jordan River.

Island Adventure Tours (tel. 866/812-7103; www.islandadventuretours.com) has a number of options for folks wanting to explore the outdoors. The 6-hour guided rainforest walks cost C$95 (£47) or a full-day hike including transportation and lunch. For the deluxe Juan de Fuca experience, sign up for a 3-day, fully catered backpacking trip along the rugged West Coast Trail for C$499 (£250).

For something less strenuous but still scenic, try the Swan Lake Christmas Hill Nature Sanctuary, 3873 Swan Lake Rd. (tel. 250/479-0211; www.swanlake.bc.ca). A floating boardwalk winds its way through this 40-hectare (99-acre) wetland past resident swans; the adjacent Nature House supplies feeding grain on request.

Paragliding

Vancouver Island Paragliding (tel. 250/886-4165; www.viparagliding.com) offers tandem paraglide flights. The pilot steers; you hang on and enjoy the adrenaline rush. Flights last around 25 minutes. They also offer 1-day training courses that allow you to take off on your own.

Sailing

One of the most exciting ways to explore the Strait of Juan de Fuca is aboard the Thane, on a 3-hour sail tour for C$60 (£30) per person. The vessel is moored in front of the Fairmont Empress. Daily summer sailings leave at 9am, 1pm, and 5pm. Guests are welcome to bring a picnic. Contact the SV Thane (tel. 877/788-4263 or 250/885-2311; www.eco-correct.com).

Skiing

Mount Washington Ski Resort, P.O. Box 3069, Courtenay, B.C. V9N 5N3 (tel. 888/231-1499 or 250/338-1380, 250/338-1515 snow report; www.mtwashington.bc.ca), in the Comox Valley is British Columbia's third-largest ski area, a 5-hour drive from Victoria and open year-round (for hiking or skiing, depending on the season). A 480m (1,575-ft.) vertical drop and 50 groomed runs are serviced by four chairlifts and a beginners' tow. The terrain is popular among snowboarders and well suited to intermediate skiers. For cross-country skiers, 31km (19 miles) of track-set Nordic trails connect to Strathcona Provincial Park. Full-day rates are around C$50 (£25) for adults, C$40 (£20) for seniors and students, and C$26 (£13) for youth 7 to 12; free for kids under 7. Equipment rentals are available. Located 100km (62 miles) north of Nanaimo; take Hwy. 19 to exit 130.

Watersports

The Crystal Pool & Fitness Centre, 2275 Quadra St. (tel. 250/361-0732), is Victoria's main aquatic facility. The 50m (164-ft.) lap pool; children's pool; diving pool; sauna; whirlpool; and steam, weight, and aerobics rooms are open Monday through Friday 5:30am to 11pm, Saturday 6am to 6pm, and Sunday 9am to 4pm. Drop-in admission is C$4.75 (£2.40) for adults, C$3.75 (£1.85) for seniors and students, and C$2.50 (£1.25) for children 6 to 12; free for children under 6. Beaver Lake in Elk and Beaver Lake Regional Park has lifeguards on duty as well as picnicking facilities along the shore.

Surfing has recently taken off on the island. The best surf is along the west coast at China, French, and Mystic beaches. To get there, take Blanshard Street north from downtown, turn left onto Hwy. 1 (Trans-Canada Hwy.), then after about 10km (6 1/4 miles), take the turnoff onto Hwy. 14A (Sooke Rd.). Follow Hwy. 14A north along the coast. The beaches are well signposted.

Windsurfers skim along outside the Inner Harbour and on Elk Lake when the breezes are right. Though French Beach, off Sooke Road on the way to Sooke Harbour, has no specific facilities, it is a popular local windsurfing spot.

Whale-Watching

The waters surrounding the southern tip of Vancouver Island teem with orcas (killer whales), harbor seals, sea lions, harbor and Dall porpoises, and bald eagles. All whale-watching companies offer basically the same tour; the main difference comes in the equipment they use: Some use a 12-person Zodiac, where the jolting ride is almost as exciting as seeing the whales, whereas others take a larger, more leisurely craft. Both offer excellent platforms for seeing whales. In high season (June to Labour Day), most companies offer several trips a day. Always ask if the outfitter is a "responsible whale-watcher" -- that is, doesn't go too close to disturb or harass the whales.

Seafun Safaris Whale Watching, 950 Wharf St. (tel. 877/360-1233 or 250/360-1200; www.seafun.com), is just one of many outfits offering whale-watching tours in Zodiacs and covered boats. Adults and kids will learn a lot from the naturalist guides, who explain the behavior and nature of the orcas, gray whales, sea lions, porpoises, cormorants, eagles, and harbor seals encountered along the way. Fares are C$109 (£55) for adults and C$79 (£39) for children.

Other reputable companies include Prince of Whales, 812 Wharf St. (tel. 888/383-4884 or 250/383-4884; www.princeofwhales.com), just below the Visitor Info Centre, and Orca Spirit Adventures (tel. 888/672-ORCA or 250/383-8411; www.orcaspirit.com), which departs from the Coast Harbourside Hotel dock.