Nearby Attractions

A Provincial Park, a Native Village & a Few Wineries

A short drive north from Victoria along the Island Highway takes you to three spots discussed below. The drive -- along the ocean, up over the Malahat mountains, and then through the beautiful Cowichan Valley -- is short enough to complete in one fairly leisurely day.

Goldstream Provincial Park -- This quiet little valley overflowed with prospectors during the 1860s gold-rush days. Trails take you past abandoned mine shafts and tunnels as well as 600-year-old stands of towering Douglas fir, lodgepole pine, red cedar, indigenous yew, and arbutus trees. The Gold Mine Trail leads to Niagara Creek and the abandoned mine that was operated by Lt. Peter Leech, a royal engineer who discovered gold in the creek in 1858. The Goldstream Trail leads to the salmon spawning areas. (You might also catch sight of mink and river otters racing along this path.)

For general information on Goldstream Provincial Park and all other provincial parks on the South Island, contact B.C. Parks at tel. 250/391-2300, or check www.bcparks.ca. Throughout the year, Goldstream Park's Freeman King Visitor Centre (tel. 250/478-9414) offers guided walks, talks, displays, and programs geared toward kids but interesting for adults, too. Open daily 9am to 4pm. Take Hwy. 1 about 30 minutes north of Victoria. Note that B.C. government cutbacks have significantly reduced the number of events and services in most provincial parks. There is now a C$3 (£1.50) day-use parking fee at Goldstream.

Three species of salmon (chum, chinook, and steelhead) make annual salmon runs up the Goldstream River during October, November, December, and February. You can easily observe this natural wonder along the riverbanks. Contact the park's visitor center for details.

Quw'utsun' Cultural & Conference Centre -- The main reason for visiting the town of Duncan is to see the Quw'utsun' Cultural and Conference Centre, 200 Cowichan Way (tel. 877/746-8119 or 250/746-8119; www.quwutsun.ca). Created by the Cowichan People, the center brings First Nations culture to visitors in a way that's commercially successful yet still respectful of native traditions.

Longhouses along the crystal-clear Cowichan River give you an idea of the lodgings and ceremonial structures built by the aboriginal tribes who have lived in the area for thousands of years. Totem poles placed throughout the grounds represent traditional stories and legends. Though you can visit and take a self-guided tour year-round, it's best to tour the 2.4-hectare (6-acre) site with one of the native guides in July or August when there are ceremonial midday dances beside the river and a salmon barbecue (Tues-Sat at 1pm). Master and apprentice carvers create poles, masks, and feasting bowls in workshops open to the public; the traditional Cowichan art of knitting sweaters is also demonstrated. Original tools, clothing, and pictures are on display and a film presents an oral history of the Cowichan culture. A large gift shop in the complex sells native-made carvings, crafts, jewelry, clothing, silk-screened prints, and other items. The center and gift shops are open daily May through September 9am to 5pm (until 4pm on weekends); closed weekends October through March. Admission is C$13 (£6.50) for adults, C$11 (£5.50) for seniors and youths 12 to 18, C$2 (£1) for children 6 to 11, and C$25 (£12) for families. (Salmon barbecue and dance performance costs C$35/£17 for adults, C$33/£16 for seniors and students, and C$24/£12 for children.) You can enjoy authentic native foods (salmon, oysters, venison) at the River Walk Café, open for lunch Monday through Saturday 11am to 4pm. All in all, a unique experience.

The Duncan-Cowichan Visitor Info Centre is at 381A Trans-Canada Hwy. (in the Overwaitea Mall), Duncan, B.C. V9L 3R5 (tel. 250/746-4636). During July and August, it's open daily from 9am to 6pm; September through June, hours are Monday through Saturday 9am to 3pm.

The Cowichan Valley Wineries -- The vintners of gorgeous agricultural Cowichan Valley have gained a solid reputation for producing fine wines. Several of the wineries offer 1-hour tours -- a great introduction for novices. They usually include a tasting of the vintner's art as well as a chance to purchase bottles or cases of your favorites. (Great gift idea because you will not find any of these wines outside British Columbia.)

Cherry Point Vineyards, 840 Cherry Point Rd., Cowichan (tel. 250/743-1272; www.cherrypointvineyards.com), looks like a slice of California's Napa Valley. The wine-tasting room and gift shop is open daily 10am to 5pm (Jan-Mar until 4pm). You can have lunch at the on-site bistro (main courses about C$15/£7.50). Blue Grouse Vineyards, 4365 Blue Grouse Rd., Mill Bay (tel. 250/743-3834; www.bluegrousevineyards.com), is a smaller winery that began as a hobby. April through September, it's open for tastings and on-site purchases Wednesday through Sunday 11am to 5pm (Wed-Sat the rest of the year). Merridale Cidery, located just south of Cowichan Bay at 1230 Merridale Rd. (tel. 800/998-9908 in B.C. only, or 250/743-4293; www.merridalecider.com), is worth a stop to taste their artisan ciders, or for lunch at their bistro. Open daily 10:30am to 5:30pm (phone ahead to confirm open hours).

Cowichan Bay (off Hwy. 1, south of Duncan) is a pleasant half-hour drive from the wine country. Just southeast of Duncan, Cowichan Bay is a pretty little seaside town with a view of the ocean and a few attractions. The Cowichan Bay Maritime Centre, 1761 Cowichan Bay Rd., Cowichan Bay (tel. 250/746-4955; www.classicboats.org), is a unique museum where boats are displayed in special pods seen from atop an old, picturesque pier that stretches out into the bay. It's open daily 9am to dusk; admission is by donation.