Restaurants

Wellington used to have the best concentration of restaurants and cafes of any city in New Zealand, but Auckland has edged it out. However, it's still crammed with a variety that reflects its cosmopolitan population. Everything is within walking distance and priced for all budgets. The visitor center's Wine & Food Guide gives an excellent introduction to many of the leading lights. Ethnic restaurants -- Turkish, Greek, Indian, Thai, Mongolian, Japanese, Malaysian, Chinese, Korean, and more -- abound and are found in the biggest concentration around Cuba Street and Courtenay Place. Cuba Street is also the hippest place to eat on a budget and there are a number of vegetarian eateries in this area. And don't forget the suburbs: Thorndon, Mount Victoria, Oriental Parade, and Eastbourne, just for starters, have little pockets of culinary magic. At least one new restaurant or cafe opens every week.

Situated strategically between the ever-expanding wine-growing regions of Marlborough and Wairarapa, Wellington couldn't be better placed to introduce you to the sublime delights of New Zealand's finest wines. It's wall-to-wall food and wine out here -- go for it!

The Top Five -- For the very best in fine dining, Wellington's top five restaurants are Citron, Boulcott Street Bistro, Logan Brown, White House Restaurant and Martin Bosley's Yacht Club Restaurant -- all seriously expensive.

In Inner City

Moderate -- If you enjoy Indian food, Great India Restaurant, 141 Manners St. (tel. 04/384-5755), comes highly recommended; it's open for lunch Monday through Friday midday to 2pm, and for dinner daily 5pm until late. Reservations are advised. For tangy Asian-style flavors, head for Zing, corner of Wakefield and Blair streets (tel. 04/385-0111). Their Lazy Brunch is a favorite on weekends from 10:30am and they're also open for lunch and dinners daily. I recommend Ernesto, 132 Cuba St. (tel. 04/801-6878) if you want a relaxed, sunny cafe to read the morning paper in. It's a little more relaxed than nearby Floriditas but the service can be patchy.

Inexpensive -- New Dynasty, 25 Tory St. (tel. 04/384-3288), is a great place for traditional Chinese yum cha lunch -- fat little dumplings and the like. The Green Parrot, Taranaki and Wakefield streets (tel. 04/384-6080), is a backpacker regular that's been serving up big, old-fashioned meals for the past 29 years. On Courtenay Place are numerous kabob houses that stay open late. One Red Dog, 9-11 Blair St. (tel. 04/384-9777), has cheap wood-fired pizzas and good service.

In Thorndon/Kelburn

For a laid-back spot to put a smile on your face, head for Backbencher Pub & Café, 34 Molesworth St. (opposite Parliament; tel. 04/472-3065), where you'll find a great pub atmosphere that lightheartedly mocks the local parliamentarians. It's best summed up as cheap and cheerful. In Kelburn, seek out the pocket-size delights of Kelburn Café, 87-89 Upland Rd., Kelburn (tel. 04/475-8381), which is open daily 9am to 5pm, serving great coffee and fabulous cakes. Red Tomatoes, 87-89 Upland Rd., Kelburn (tel. 04/475-7123), has some of the most delicious thin-crust wood-fired pizzas I've ever tasted. They also do great Malaysian curries and Greek salads. They're open Monday through Saturday 4 to 10pm and Sunday 4 to 9pm, with live jazz every Tuesday night.

In Mount Victoria/Oriental Parade

The Ambelli, 18 Marjoribanks St., Mount Victoria (tel. 04/385-7577), is where you'll find delicious crispy duck or a delicate filet of rare beef in a cute, intimate restaurant (open Tues-Sat from 6pm); or, for a totally different experience, try Kai in the City, 21 Marjoribanks St., Mount Victoria (tel. 04/801-5006; www.kaicity.co.nz), which gives you an authentic dining experience based on traditional Maori values. A part-Maori menu comes with a glossary. It's all about hospitality and entertainment and it's open Monday through Saturday from 5:30pm. They do a great seafood platter.

Near the Airport

To call this area a culinary backwater is an understatement and restaurants here seem to change like the weather. If you're staying in this area, consult with the locals. The best option I found is Maranui Café, The Parade, Lyall Bay (tel. 04/387-2829), which is a quirky joint located in the distinctive Maranui Surf Life Saving Club building on the windy waterfront. It's a terrific place for coffee, big cakes, and light lunches and with gulls soaring just outside the upstairs windows at table level, you'll soon forget all about the rush of the city. It's open Monday through Sunday 7:30am to 5pm. Make sure you check out the historic surf club photos in the stairwell.

Quick Caffeine Fixes -- Apart from the other cafes reviewed, you'll find excellent coffee and good atmosphere at One Red Dog, 9-11 Blair St. (tel. 04/384-9777); Caffe L'Affare, 27 College St. (tel. 04/385-9748), which has a fabulous humming atmosphere; Toast, 120 The Terrace (tel. 04/499-1656); Starbucks (tel. 04/472-4861), now firmly ensconced in several city locations, including the Old Bank Arcade & Chambers, on Lambton Quay (tel. 04/922-0624), and also on The Terrace and on Willis Street. And for constant reliability, you can't go past my busy little favorite, Arabica (tel. 04/473-7697), opposite the InterContinental hotel on Grey Street, where people pour in like ants to a new food source.

Deli Fixings -- Whether you want to stock up on picnic food or just sit and enjoy coffee with a fine range of edibles, don't miss these Inner City delis and bakeries. Dixon Street Gourmet Deli, 45 Dixon St. (tel. 04/384-2436), has a glowing reputation as long as my arm; and Smith the Grocer, in the Old Bank Arcade, Lambton Quay (tel. 04/473-8591), is a surprise tucked in between leading fashion stores. Both have a wide range of specialty items to take home, plus delicious ready-to-eat treats for the moment. Bordeaux Bakery, 220 Thorndon Quay (tel. 04/499-8334), and Le Moulin, 248 Willis St. (tel. 04/382-8118), are two superlative French bakeries; and for Italian-style breads, try Pandoro, 2 Allen St. (tel. 04/385-4478).

Hot Chocolate -- Don't leave Wellington without finding Schoc Chocolates, 11 Tory St. (tel. 04/382-8907; www.chocolatetherapy.com), where you'll find exquisite handmade chocolates, espresso, and, of course, hot chocolate. Try lime chilli and sea salt chocolate -- if you dare. They're open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 6:30pm, Saturday 10:30am to 6:30pm, and Sunday noon to 6pm. And if you visit the Wairarapa village of Greytown, call into their Main Street chocolaterie and watch the chocolates being handmade.

Food Courts -- Wellington has good food courts. The best is Gourmet Lane, in the BNZ Centre, 1 Willis St. This place is a dream for dollar-wise travelers, as even NZ$10 (US$7/£4) will fill the gaps. The choices include Chinese, burgers, gourmet pies, barbecue, and more. It's open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 5pm, Friday from 8am to 8pm, and Saturday from 10am to 3pm. Another popular choice is the Reading Food Court at Reading Cinema, Courtenay Place Central (tel. 04/801-4601).

A Taste of France -- La Cloche, 134 Hutt Rd., Kaiwharawhara, Wellington (tel. 04/473-4892; www.lacloche.co.nz), sits at the bottom of the Ngaio Gorge beside a BMW showroom. It's there that you'll find the two Francois's -- French business partners who have Wellingtonians lining up for all things French and edible in a former warehouse jammed with goodies to eat in or take away -- over 40 French cheeses for a start and their fresh breads are scrumptious. Open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm; weekends 9am to 3pm.