Restaurants

Wellington used to have the best concentration of restaurants and cafes of any city in New Zealand, but Auckland has edged it out. However, it's still crammed with a variety that reflects its cosmopolitan population. Everything is within walking distance and priced for all budgets. The visitor center's Wine & Food Guide gives an excellent introduction to many of the leading lights. Ethnic restaurants -- Turkish, Greek, Indian, Thai, Mongolian, Japanese, Malaysian, Chinese, Korean, and more -- abound and are found in the biggest concentration around Cuba Street and Courtenay Place. Cuba Street has become one of the hippest places to eat and a number of excellent restaurants and cafes have loyal followers among locals. And don't forget the suburbs: Thorndon, Mount Victoria, Oriental Parade, and Eastbourne, just for starters, have little pockets of culinary magic.

Situated strategically between the ever-expanding winegrowing regions of Marlborough and Wairarapa, Wellington couldn't be better placed to introduce you to the sublime delights of New Zealand's finest wines. It's wall-to-wall food and wine out here -- go for it!

In the Inner City

Quick Caffeine fixes -- You'll find excellent coffee and good atmosphere at One Red Dog, 9-11 Blair St. (tel. 04/384-9777); Caffe L'Affare, 27 College St. (tel. 04/385-9748), which has a fabulous humming atmosphere; and Starbucks (tel. 04/472-4861), now firmly ensconced in several city locations, including the Old Bank Arcade & Chambers, on Lambton Quay (tel. 04/922-0624), and also on The Terrace and on Willis Street. And for constant reliability, you can't go past my busy little favorite, Arabica (tel. 04/473-7697), opposite the InterContinental hotel on Grey Street, where people pour in like ants to a new food source.

Deli Fixings -- Whether you want to stock up on picnic food or just sit and enjoy coffee with a fine range of edibles, don't miss these inner city delis and bakeries. Dixon Street Gourmet Deli, 45 Dixon St. (tel. 04/384-2436), has a glowing reputation as long as my arm; and Smith the Grocer, in the Old Bank Arcade, Lambton Quay (tel. 04/473-8591), is a surprise tucked in between leading fashion stores. Both have a wide range of specialty items to take home, plus delicious ready-to-eat treats for the moment. Bordeaux Bakery, 220 Thorndon Quay (tel. 04/499-8334), and Le Moulin, 248 Willis St. (tel. 04/382-8118), are two superlative French bakeries; and for Italian-style breads, try Pandoro, 2 Allen St. (tel. 04/385-4478).

Cuba Character -- This is my favorite bohemian part of Wellington with great food joints that shouldn't be missed. Top of the list is Midnight Espresso, 178 Cuba St. (tel. 04/384-7014), an iconic, slightly scruffy melting pot of people and color. Quintessentially Cuba Street, it serves fabulous counter food and espresso late into the night. Simply Paris, 181 Cuba St. (tel. 04/801-5486), is a French-owned cafe and patisserie with cakes to die for; I can never walk past it. Caffe Italiano, 229 Cuba St. (tel. 04/385-2703), has an excellent deli and a lively weekend brunch scene that often includes the Italian community; and farther down, the French-owned bistro, Le Metropolitain, 146 Cuba St. (tel. 04/801-8007), has legions of fans who love the authentic provincial dishes and noisy atmosphere. Matterhorn Bar & Restaurant, 106 Cuba St. (tel. 04/384-3359), is a popular, award-winning choice that everyone I met recommended. It's "the place of the moment" and meals are outstanding.

Food Courts -- Wellington has good food courts. The best is Gourmet Lane, in the BNZ Centre, 1 Willis St. This place is a dream for dollar-wise travelers, as even NZ$10 will fill the gaps. The choices include Chinese, burgers, gourmet pies, barbecue, and more. It's open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 5pm, Friday from 8am to 8pm, and Saturday from 10am to 3pm. Another popular choice is the Reading Food Court at Reading Cinema, Courtenay Place Central (tel. 04/801-4601).

A Taste Of France -- La Cloche, 134 Hutt Rd., Kaiwharawhara, Wellington (tel. 04/473-4892; www.lacloche.co.nz), sits at the bottom of the Ngaio Gorge beside a BMW showroom. It's there that you'll find the two Francois's -- French business partners who have Wellingtonians lining up for all things French and edible in a former warehouse jammed with goodies to eat in or take away -- over 40 French cheeses for a start, and their fresh breads are scrumptious. Open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm; weekends 9am to 3pm.

Moderate

If you enjoy Indian food, Great India Restaurant, 141 Manners St. (tel. 04/384-5755), comes highly recommended; it's open for lunch Monday through Friday midday to 2pm, and for dinner daily 5pm until late. Reservations are advised. I recommend Ernesto, 132 Cuba St. (tel. 04/801-6878), if you want a relaxed, sunny cafe to read the morning paper. It's a little more relaxed than nearby Floriditas, but the service can be patchy.

Inexpensive

New Dynasty, 25 Tory St. (tel. 04/384-3288), is a great place for traditional Chinese yum cha lunch -- fat little dumplings and the like. The Green Parrot, Taranaki and Wakefield streets (tel. 04/384-6080), is a backpacker regular that's been serving up big, old-fashioned meals for the past 31 years. On Courtenay Place are numerous kabob houses that stay open late. One Red Dog, 9-11 Blair St. (tel. 04/384-9777), has cheap wood-fired pizzas and good service.

In Thornton and Kelburn

For a laid-back spot to put a smile on your face, head for Backbencher Pub & Café, 34 Molesworth St. (opposite Parliament; tel. 04/472-3065), where you'll find a great pub atmosphere that lightheartedly mocks the local parliamentarians. It's best summed up as cheap and cheerful. In Kelburn, seek out the pocket-size delights of Kelburn Café, 87-89 Upland Rd., Kelburn (tel. 04/475-8381), which is open daily 9am to 5pm, serving great coffee and fabulous cakes. Red Tomatoes, 87-89 Upland Rd., Kelburn (tel. 04/475-7123), has some of the most delicious thin-crust wood-fired pizzas I've ever tasted. They also do great Malaysian curries and Greek salads. They're open Monday through Saturday 4 to 10pm and Sunday 4 to 9pm, with live jazz every Tuesday night.

Near the Airport

To call this area a culinary backwater is an understatement, and restaurants here seem to change like the weather. If you're staying in this area, consult with the locals. The best option I found is Maranui Café, the Parade, Lyall Bay (tel. 04/387-2829), which is a quirky joint located in the distinctive Maranui Surf Life Saving Club building on the windy waterfront. It's a terrific place for coffee, big cakes, and light lunches and with gulls soaring just outside the upstairs windows at table level, you'll soon forget all about the rush of the city. It's open daily 7:30am to 5pm. Make sure you check out the historic surf club photos in the stairwell. Soi Café & Bar, 305 Evans Bay Parade, Haitaitai (tel. 04/386-3830; www.soicafebar.co.nz), is a new addition to Great Point Wharf. It's light, bright, and contemporary, and a lovely place to unwind over fish and salad or risotto before hitting the airport 5 minutes away. As the name suggests, there's an Asian undertone to the menu.