Nightlife

This is one city where you won't run out of things to do after dark. Start by checking the current issues of Capital Times and What's On, both free and available at visitor centers and many cafes.

The Performing Arts

Wellington is home to the largest performing-arts festival in the country; it is also home to the National Orchestra and Opera, the Royal New Zealand Ballet, and four thriving professional theater companies. In addition, you'll find the National Dance and Drama Centre, the New Zealand School of Dance, and the New Zealand Drama School, all based in the capital.

A rejuvenated Westpac St. James Theatre, 77-87 Courtenay Place (tel. 04/802-4060; www.stjames.co.nz), opened its doors in 1998 after a NZ$21-million refurbishment project, and this fine Edwardian venue now combines a preserved heritage theater with state-of-the-art technology. Apart from staging top-quality musical shows, it is also the new and permanent home of the Royal New Zealand Ballet Company.

The city has a healthy professional theater scene. The Downstage Theatre, in Hannah Playhouse, Courtenay Place, corner of Cambridge Terrace (tel. 04/801-6946; www.downstage.co.nz), presents first-rate theater in an exciting, award-winning structure. Downstage's year-round season presents its own productions and the best touring shows, including classics, contemporary drama, comedy, and dance, with an emphasis on quality New Zealand works. Tickets are NZ$35 to NZ$40 for most shows.

Circa Theatre, 1 Taranaki St. (tel. 04/801-7992; www.circa.co.nz), sits grandly beside Te Papa. It produces quality and generally innovative productions. You can enjoy a preshow meal at its licensed cafe. Tickets are NZ$38. Bats Theatre, 1 Kent Terrace (tel. 04/802-4175; www.bats.co.nz), is seen as the country's top developmental theater, presenting new and experimental plays and dance at great prices (NZ$18-NZ$25). Embassy Theatre, 10 Kent Terrace (tel. 04/384-7657; www.deluxe.co.nz), was refurbished for the world premiere of The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King. The combination of sumptuous 1920s decor with a giant screen and state-of-the-art digital sound, not to mention its cafe and bar, makes it well worth a visit. There are summer screenings of The Lord of the Rings every Sunday afternoon.

A Night at the Movies

All Wellington cinemas offer discounted tickets for daytime and Tuesday-night screenings. Students and seniors also get a discount. Look in the newspapers for schedules. Try the Embassy Theatre, 10 Kent Terrace (tel. 04/384-7657), with a giant screen and a new sound system; Hoyts Cinemas, which has two multiscreen complexes in Manners Mall and Manners Street; or Rialto Cinemas, Cable Street and Jervois Quay (tel. 04/385-1864), a three-theater complex. Penthouse Cinema & Café, 205 Ohiro Rd., Brooklyn (tel. 04/384-3157), is the city's only suburban theater and draws a loyal local crowd.

The Club and Bar Scene

It's simple: When it gets dark, the party starts, and again, the compact nature of the city is a blessing for those looking for a good time. There are late-night bars and dance venues aplenty, and if you want to bypass the quiet start and head straight for the action, then Courtenay Place it is. I have to say, though, that the large number of drunken youths in this area on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights is almost enough to put me off -- almost. The reality is that there are enough bars in this part of town for all ages to find a comfortable niche, and anyone over 25 who has outgrown the vomiting-in-the-street trick need only look around for a place that suits his or her mood. Be warned though -- the Wellington bar scene is ever-changing and venues listed here may have changed names and owners by the time you arrive. The best bars are also typically in tiny, tucked-away places, so ask the locals about the latest hot spots.

The closing time for bars and clubs varies wildly in New Zealand. It depends on whether you're in the provinces or a major city, whether it's summer or winter, and what type of liquor license the establishment holds. In a major city like Wellington, it is safe to assume that most stay open in summer until between midnight and 2am. Many have 24-hour licenses.

The "in" places for the older crowd (that's 30 plus) are always changing, but you'll be safe if you start with trendy Zibibbo, 25-29 Taranaki St. (tel. 04/385-6550), which inhabits the old central police building. You can get great Spanish-Italian tapas here along with sophisticated nightlife. One of the coolest new places to be seen at is the very posh Arbitrageur, 125 Featherston St. (tel. 04/499-5530), where you'll find sophisticated club style, over 60 of the best wines, and an interior that will win over any wine purist's heart. It's open Monday through Thursday from 11:30am till late and on Saturdays from 5pm. Beaujolais Wine Bar, 11 Woodward St. (tel. 04/472-1471), is tucked away in the thoroughfare connecting Lambton Quay and The Terrace. It's well known for its exceptional cellar and is open Monday through Friday, from midday till late and on weekends by appointment.

Matterhorn, 106 Cuba St. (tel. 04/384-3359), serves great cocktails, and once the restaurant crowd is satisfied, it turns into a funky bar deserving of its accumulated awards. Mighty Mighty, Level 1, 104 Cuba St. (tel. 04/385-2890), has gone retro with menus on old record covers and cocktails that will get your evening off to a good start. Concrete Bar, Level 1, Cable Car Lane, Lambton Quay (tel. 04/473-7427), is a sophisticated joint with a great wine-and-beer list and cocktails to get any evening off to a good start. Motel, Forrester's Lane (tel. 04/382-8585), creates an exotic mood with a retro twist that includes sculptures and oriental lamps. It's very suave and runs adjacent to the ever-popular Chow restaurant. Red Square, 8-20 Blair St. (tel. 04/802-4244), has one of those sumptuous, moody interiors that instantly puts you in a party mood, helped greatly by a head-spinning vodka list. It attracts a mixed crowd -- as does nearby Ponderosa, 28 Blair St. (tel. 04/384-1064), which, as the name suggests, has let loose with a cowboy-themed lounge bar. If you can overlook corny names like Stubborn Mule and Randy Ranger, you'll have a great time with their delicious cocktail list.

Molly Malones, Taranaki Street and Courtenay Place (tel. 04/384-2896), is the biggest and busiest Irish bar in town, with live music every weekend. Also in this area is the hugely popular Coyote, 63 Courtenay Place (tel. 04/385-6665), which attracts a mixed and generally rowdy crowd.

There are also interesting bar and dance choices in the Cuba and Willis streets area, which tend to be a bit less concerned with fashion and making an appearance.

Beer Literacy -- If you're a beer lover, Wellington will please you to no end. I'd start with Tasting Room, 2 Courtenay Place (tel. 04/384-1159), which is New Zealand's 10th Monteith's Craft Beer Bar. They know all about creative beer and food matching. Bodega, 101 Ghuznee St. (tel. 04/384-8212), is Wellington's original ale house serving the city's only hand-drawn ales. It has 17 different tap beers and a massive selection of imports. Mac's Brewery, corner of Taranaki and Cable streets (tel. 04/802-1956), has great harbor views where you can sit back and see why these beers are international award winners. Take one of their beer- and food-matching evenings or a brewery tour. The Courtenay Arms, 26-32 Allen St. (tel. 04/385-6908), is a real English ale house with premium imported British ales on tap. And no beer section would be complete without the Malthouse, 48 Courtenay Place (tel. 04/802-5484; www.themalthouse.co.nz), which has New Zealand's largest range of beers -- over 150 local and international brews.

The Gay Scene

The visitor center has folders full of information related to the gay scene, including gay-friendly accommodations and nightspots other than those listed here. Sanctuary, Courtenay Place (tel. 04/384-1565), is a men's cruise club open Tuesday through Sunday from 8pm. There's a gay sauna at Checkmate, 20 Garrett St. (tel. 04/385-6556), and another at Wakefield Health Club, 15 Tory St. (tel. 04/385-4400). If you want to find out more about the gay scene, call the Gay Switchboard (tel. 04/473-7878). The line is open nightly from 7:30 to 10pm for information and support. Gay Line Wellington (www.gayline.gen.nz) is also a useful first stop. Lesbian Line (tel. 04/499-5567) operates Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday 7:30 to 10pm, offering information on accommodations, sporting events, and counseling services.