En Route to Greymouth: Punakaiki
The drive between Westport and Greymouth is simply stunning, with some of the best coastal views in the country. There are many walkways leading to a variety of natural attractions. Chief among them is the world-famous Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, the main feature of the 10-minute Dolomite Walk in the heart of the Paparoa National Park. These strange pancakelike limestone formations were pushed up from the ocean floor by seismic action 30 million years ago. For the best show, try to visit the rocks at high tide with a westerly swell running; water comes surging into the deep caverns below and can spout up to 9m (30 ft.) in the air. The rocks are 45km (28 miles) north of Greymouth on the coast section of State Highway 6. If you're on an InterCity coach, the bus will stop here to enable you to do the 20-minute round-trip walk. The track is wide, well maintained, and easily negotiable.
Across the road from the track entrance, you'll find a busy gathering of little cafes and crafts stores, along with the Punakaiki-Paparoa National Park Visitor Centre, P.O. Box 1, Punakaiki (tel. 03/731-1895; fax 03/731-1896; www.punakaiki.co.nz). The Department of Conservation (tel. 03/731-1895; www.doc.govt.nz) is in the same building; it is open daily in summer 9am to 6pm, and in winter to 4:30pm. Punakaiki Crafts (tel./fax 03/731-1813; www.punakaikicrafts.co.nz) is a cooperative with the best, most innovative arts and crafts on the coast. It's open daily from 8:30am to 6pm. There's an excellent espresso outlet here, too.
There are plenty of other excellent short walks in the area. Both the Truman Track and the Punakaiki Cavern are under 1 hour and suitable for the entire family. The Truman includes a stroll through coastal forest to a beach with caves and a waterfall. The visitor center has a leaflet detailing all walks in the area.
Punakaiki Horse Treks (tel. 03/731-1839; www.pancake-rocks.co.nz) offers a variety of activities exploring the rich park environment, including nature tours of the magnificent Punakaiki Valley in an eight-wheeled amphibious vehicle, and horse treks through bush and beach environments. The latter start at NZ$120 (US$85/£43) per person for a 2 1/2-hour ride. They're open for business from the third week of October through the first week of May.
Punakaiki Canoes, State Highway 6, Punakaiki (tel. 03/731-1870; www.riverkayaking.co.nz), will take you upstream on the Pororari River, through a stunning gorge cut from limestone cliffs. It's suitable for all ages and experience levels and costs NZ$45 (US$32/£16) per person for half-day rental guided trips start at NZ$75 (US$53/£27).
Filling Up -- Before you leave Westport, heading to either Nelson or Greymouth, fill your car with petrol. There are no more petrol stations until you hit Murchison, or 87km (54 miles) south near Greymouth.
