Active Pursuits

The main advantage of staying on an island is that swimming, snorkeling, bushwalking, and a huge range of watersports, many of them free, are right outside your door. The deadly stingers that can infest Airlie's shores do not make it to the islands, so swimming in the islands is safe year-round. You won't be isolated if you stay on an island, because most Great Barrier Reef cruise boats, "sail and snorkel" yacht excursions, Whitehaven Beach cruises, dive boats, fishing tour vessels, and so on stop at the island resorts every day or on a frequent basis. Be warned, however, that once you're "captive" on an island, you may be slugged with high food and drink prices. Bear in mind, too, that although most island resorts offer nonmotorized watersports, such as Windsurfers and catamarans, free of charge, you will pay for activities that use fuel, such as parasailing, water-skiing, and dinghy rental.

In some places in the Whitsundays, extreme low tides may reveal rocky mud flats below the sand line. Watersports can be limited then because of the low water level.

Whale-Watching -- Humpback whales migrate to the Whitsundays July through September to give birth. These fearless giants of the deep come right up to the boat. Fantasea Adventure Cruising (tel. 07/4946 5111; www.fantasea.com.au) runs whale-watching cruises in season; trips feature an onboard talk and videos. The cost is about A$100 (US$80/UK£40) per adult. If you don't see whales, you can go free another day, or choose another of Fantasea's cruises as an alternative.

Hitting the Beach -- The 6km (3 3/4-mile) stretch of pure-white silica sand on Whitehaven Beach will leave you in rapture. The beach, on uninhabited Whitsunday Island, does not boast a lot of coral, but the swimming is good, and the forested shore is beautiful. Take a book and chill out. Some sailboat day trips visit it, as do some motorized vessels, including Fantasea Adventure Cruising (tel. 07/4946 5111). Expect to pay around A$95 (US$76/UK£38) per adult and A$55 (US$44/UK£22) per child for the day, with lunch.

Fishing -- Reef fishing is superb throughout the islands; red emperor, coral trout, sweetlip, and snapper are common catches. One of the most popular charter vessels is the 16m (52-ft.) timber cruiser Moruya (tel. 07/4946 7127, or 0415/185 653 mobile; www.fishingwhitsunday.com.au). Day trips depart Shute Harbour daily at 9:30am and return at 5:30pm. They include lunch, bait, and fishing rods. The crew will even clean your catch for you. Adults pay A$120 (US$96/UK£48), seniors A$110 (US$88/UK£44), children 4 to 14 A$75 (US$60/UK£30), and a family of four A$315 (US$252/UK£126).

If you want to undertake your own fishing expedition, Harbourside Boat Hire, in Shute Harbour (tel. 07/4946 9330), rents motorized dinghies for A$60 (US$48/UK£24) for a half-day or A$90 (US$72/UK£36) for a full day. Half-cabin cruisers cost A$90 (US$72/UK£36) for a half-day, A$150 (US$120/UK[bp[60) for a full day. They also rent fishing rods and sell tackle, bait, ice, and all your fishing needs.

Golf -- Serious golfers should not miss a round on arguably Australia's best resort course, the championship Turtle Point golf course at Laguna Whitsundays Resort, Kunapipi Springs Road, Midge Point (tel. 07/4947 7777), a 45-minute drive south of Airlie Beach. An 18-hole round dodging wallabies, goannas, and kookaburras on the difficult fairways will set you back around A$95 (US$76/UK£38), plus A$25 (US$20/UK£10) for club hire.

Sea Kayaking -- If you have strong arms, sea kayaking is a wonderful way to enjoy the islands. Daydream Island and the beaches and bays of the North, Mid, and South Molle group of islands are all within paddling distance of the mainland. It's common to see dolphins, turtles, and sharks along the way. One long-established operator is Salty Dog Sea Kayaking (tel. 07/4946 1388; www.saltydog.com.au), which takes escorted trips through the islands. Half-day trips run on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, and full-day trips on Monday, Thursday, and Friday, departing Airlie Beach at 8:30am. A half-day trip is A$70 (US$56/UK£28) per person and a day trip is A$125 (US$100/UK£50) per person. Two- and 6-day trips, during which you camp out, are A$365 (US$292/UK£146) and A$1,490 (US$1,192/UK£596). All rates include snorkel gear, meals, pickup, and, on overnight trips, camping gear. The company also delivers sea kayaks anywhere in the Whitsundays. Rental prices start at A$50 (US$40/UK£20) for a single kayak, A$80 (US$64/UK£32) for a double for a half-day, including delivery and pickup and safety equipment. A deposit of A$200 (US$160/UK[b]80) is required for rentals.

Sailing -- If "bareboating" is a mystery to you, take heart. You're not alone -- it simply means you are sailing the boat yourself. And if that seems daunting, rest assured that thousands of people do it safely every year. Most of the many yacht-charter companies in the islands will want one person on the boat to have a little experience at the helm of a vessel, but don't worry if you're a total novice. You do not need a license, and sailing is surprisingly easy in these uncrowded waters, where the channels are deep and hazard-free and the seas are protected from big swells by the Great Barrier Reef. The 74 islands are so close to each other that one is always in sight, and safe anchorages are everywhere.

If you have no boating experience, the company may require you to take a skipper along for the first day at an extra cost of around A$200 (US$160/UK£80) a day or A$275 (US$220/UK£110) overnight. And if you think you know what you're doing but just want extra reassurance, you can take a skipper along for the first couple of hours for A$60 (US$48/UK£24) to help you get the hang of things. Most companies mail you a preparation kit before you leave home. Before departure they give you a thorough 2- to 3-hour briefing and easy-to-read maps marking channels, anchorage points, and the very few dangerous reefs. Your charter company will radio in once or twice a day to check that you're still afloat, and you can contact the staff anytime for advice.

Most yachts are fitted for two to eight passengers. Try to get a boat with two berths more than you need if your budget will bear it, because space is always tight. The boats usually have a galley kitchen, a barbecue mounted to the stern, hot showers, a toilet, linens, a radio or stereo (or both), a motorized dinghy, and snorkeling equipment. Sleeping quarters are usually not all that luxurious and include a mix of single galley berths and one or two very compact private cabins. You can buy your own provisions or have the charter company stock the boat at an extra cost of about A$40 (US$32/UK£16) per person per day. Most operators will load a Windsurfer, fishing tackle, and scuba-diving equipment on request for an extra fee, if they are not standard.

In peak season you may have to charter the boat for a week. At other times, most companies impose a minimum of 5 days, but many will rent for 3 nights if you ask, rather than let a vessel sit idle. Five nights is a good length; it allows you to get familiar enough with the boat to relax and enjoy yourself.

In peak season, expect to pay A$615 to A$790 (US$492-US$632/UK£246-UK£316) per night for a four- to six-berth yacht. Rates in the off season, and even in the Whitsundays' busiest time, June through August, will be anywhere from A$100 to A$200 (US$80-US$160/UK£40-UK£80) less. If you are prepared to book within 14 days of when you want to sail, the deals can be even better; you should be able to find a boat that late in the off season. You will be asked to post a credit card bond of around A$2,000 (US$1,600/UK£800). Mooring fees apply if you want to stop at one of the island resorts overnight. A number of bareboat-charter companies offer "sail 'n' stay" packages that combine a few days of sailing with a few days at an island resort.

Most bareboat-charter companies will make complete holiday arrangements for you in the islands, including accommodations, transfers, tours, and sporting activities. Most companies operate out of Airlie Beach, Hamilton Island, or both. Well-known operators include Whitsunday Rent-A-Yacht (tel. 1800/075 000 in Australia, or 07/4946 9232; www.rentayacht.com.au); Queensland Yacht Charters (tel. 1800/075 013 in Australia, or 07/4946 7400; fax 07/4946 7698; www.yachtcharters.com.au); Sail Whitsunday (tel. 07/4946 7070; fax 07/4946 7044; www.sailwhitsunday.com.au); and The Moorings (tel. 888/952-8420 in the U.S., or 07/4948 9509 in Australia; www.moorings.com). Tourism Whitsundays can furnish you with a complete list of operators.

If you don't want to sail yourself, countless skippered sailing trips go through the islands.

Walking -- The Whitsundays Great Walk -- one of six Great Walks of Queensland -- covers 36km (22 miles) in Conway State Forest and Conway National Park, behind Airlie Beach. The trail starts in the parking lot at the end of Brandy Creek Road, a short drive from Cannonvale, and winds in three stages from Brandy Creek to Airlie Beach, with two campsites at 12km (7 1/2-mile) intervals. The hills here are rich in giant strangler figs, ferns, and palms, and if you're lucky, you'll spot a giant blue Ulysses butterfly. Walkers should carry drinking water, because the water in natural systems is not good for drinking.

A permit is required for overnight walks, and must be booked in advance (tel. 13 13 04 in Australia 24-hr.; or online at www.qld.gov.au/camping). The cost is A$4.50 (US$3.60/UK£1.80) per person or A$18 (US$14/UK£7.20) for a family of two adults and children aged 5 to 17. More information on the Great Walk and shorter walks can be obtained from the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service information center, Shute Harbour Road at Mandalay Road (tel. 07/4946 7022) 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) northeast of Airlie Beach. It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5pm and most, but not all, Saturdays from 9am to 1pm.

Other Great Walks are on Fraser Island, the Wet Tropics near Cairns, the Sunshine Coast hinterland, near Mackay, and in the Gold Coast hinterland. For more details on all walks, log onto www.epa.qld.gov.au.