Introduction to Zamora

64km (40 miles) N of Salamanca, 238km (148 miles) NW of Madrid

Little known to North American visitors, Zamora (pronounced thah-moh-rah) is the quintessential city of Old Castile, blending ancient and modern but noted mainly for its Romanesque architecture. In fact, Zamora is often called a "Romanesque museum." A medieval frontier city, it rises starkly from the Castilian flatlands, a reminder of the era of conquering monarchs and forgotten kingdoms.

You can explore Zamora's highlights in about 4 hours. Stroll along the main square, dusty Plaza Canovas; cross the arched Romanesque bridge from the 1300s; and take in at least some of the Romanesque churches -- many dating from the 12th century -- for which the town is known. The cathedral is the best example, but others include Iglesia de la Magdalena, on Rúa de los Francos, and Parroquia de San Ildefonso, on Calle Ramos Carrión. You might also want to look at Iglesia de Santa María la Nueva, on Plaza de Santa María, and Iglesia de Santiago el Burgo, on Calle Santa Clara.

The crowning achievement, however, at the far west end of Zamora, is the Catedral San Salvador, Plaza de la Catedral (tel. 98-053-06-44). It is topped by a gold-and-white Eastern-looking dome. Inside, you'll find rich hangings, interesting chapels, two 15th-century Mudéjar pulpits, and intricately carved choir stalls. Later architectural styles, including Gothic, have been added to the original Romanesque features, but this indiscriminate mixing of periods is typical of Spanish cathedrals. Inside the cloister, the Museo de la Catedral features ecclesiastical art, historical documents, church documents, and an unusual collection of "Black Tapestries" dating from the 1400s. These priceless Flemish tapestries tell the story of the Trojan War and are called "black" because some of their subjects are people about to be decapitated. Admission to the cathedral is free, but the museum costs 3€. The museum and cathedral are open April to September, Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm. Off-season hours are Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 2pm and 4:30 to 6:30pm.