Frommer's Review
In 2006, an important Swiss-based guidebook designated this as the 6th-best restaurant in Zurich, and in 2007, it generated some additional press when a rising young artist, Tatiana Tiziana, slap-dashed, in fewer than ten hysterical days, a sprawling series of neo-baroque trompe-l'oeil murals onto its ceiling. Since then, diners invariably look upward, between courses, at the world's most amusing take on Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, all of it broad-brushed in tones of soft black and white. Obviously, you'll get more than bemushed art if you opt to come here for a meal. Fish is particularly well-prepared here within a culinary palette that changes monthly, and which is likely to base its inspiration on whatever is fresh in local markets at the time of your arrival. Menus might focus heavily on, among others, fresh asparagus, fresh peaches, exotic mushrooms, and even ripe olives from Spain, Italy, or North Africa. Service is impeccable and laced with genuine sensitivity on the part of the staff, and at least some of the clients here will be staving off hunger pangs either before or after a performance at the nearby Opera House. The best specialties include goat cheese pickled in olive oil on beetroot-yogurt salad with slices of Serrano ham; a superb version of icy-cold tomato-olive soup; fried veal steak in an olive crust with lime sauce and slices of grilled zucchini; and filet of Arctic char coated in pulverized olives with a sour cream and strawberry sauce. Another popular dish is the filet of turbot with fresh herbs and butter, that can be baked, grilled, or poached according to your particular instructions.
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