Things To Do in Aix-en-Provence

One of the best experiences in Aix is a walk along the well-marked route de Cézanne. From the east end of cours Mirabeau, take rue du Maréchal-Joffre across boulevard Carnot to boulevard des Poilus, which becomes avenue des Ecoles-Militaires and D17. The stretch between Aix and the hamlet of Le Tholonet is full of twists and turns where Cézanne used to set up his easel. The route also makes a lovely 5.5km (3.5-mile) stroll. Le Tholonet has a cafe or two where you can refresh yourself while waiting for one of the frequent buses back to Aix.

Aix’s main street, cours Mirabeau, is also a superb stroll as it is of the most beautiful boulevards in Europe (pictured above). A double row of plane trees shades it from the Provençal sun and throws dappled daylight onto its rococo fountains. Shops and sidewalk cafes line one side; 17th- and 18th-century sandstone hôtels particuliers (private mansions) take up the other. Stop into Brasserie Les Deux Garçons, 53 cours Mirabeau, for a coffee or a glass of rosé. The brasserie was founded in 1792 and frequented by the likes of Emile Zola, Cézanne, Picasso, and Sir Winston Churchill. Boulevard Carnot and cours Sextius circle the heart of the old quarter (Vieille Ville), which contains the pedestrian-only zone.

One fun way to check out the lay of the land is aboard an eco-friendly Diabline (www.la-diabline.fr; Mon–Sat 8:30am–7:30pm; 1.30€/ride). These vehicles operate three routes along cours Mirabeau and through most of the Old Town

Organized Tours

Aix’s Tourist Office organizes English tours around Aix (tel. 04-42-16-11-61, www.aixenprovencetourism.com/en), including the year-round tour of the historic city center (Sat 10am and April–Oct Tues 10am; 2 hours; 10€, free for children under 7), and “In the Steps of Cézanne” (April-Oct Thurs 10am; 2 hours; 10€, free for children under 7).

Especially for Kids

L’Epi Vert, Lieu Dit Grand Pont, La Roque d'Antheron (www.labyrinthe-geant.fr; tel. 04-42-22-19-15), is a large outdoor fun park located northwest of Aix’s city center. Europe's largest plant labyrinth is flanked by jungle gyms, trampolines, and, in 2014, new pétanque grounds. Entrance (10€, 8€ for seniors, free for children under 1 meter, or 3 ft 4 in) not only includes access to all areas of the park; each visitor is also given a free rosemary or lavender plant (perhaps not that practical, but a kind gift all the same!). L’Epi Vert is open from 10am until 8pm, daily during school holidays, and on Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday the rest of the year.

Opened more than a century ago, Béchard, 12 cours Mirabeau (tel. 04-42-26-06-78, see above), is the most famous bakery in town. It specializes in the famous Calissons d’Aix, a candy made from ground almonds, preserved melon, and fruit syrup. Chocolaterie de Puryicard, 7 rue Rifle-Rafle (www.puyricard.fr; tel. 04-42-21-13-26), creates sensational chocolates filled with candied figs, walnuts, or local lavender honey.

Founded in 1934 on a busy boulevard just east of the center of town, Santons Fouque, 65 cours Gambetta (www.santons-fouque.com; tel. 04-42-26-33-38), stocks close to 2,000 traditional santons (crèche figurines).

Boutique perfumerie Rose et Marius, 3 rue Thiers (www.roseetmarius.com; tel. 09-82-59-35-35), dries local flowers then distils them into fragrances and soaps in this downtown perfume bar. Public perfume-making workshops are also hosted in these floral surrounds.

For a range of truly useful souvenirs, including copper pots and pocket knives by famous French forgers such as Laguiole, try Quincaillerie Centrale, 21 rue de Monclar (tel. 04-42-23-33-18), a hardware/housewares store that’s been offering a little bit of everything since 1959.

Aix offers some of the region’s best markets. Place Richelme holds a fruit and vegetable market every morning from 8:30am to 12:30pm. Come here to buy exquisite products such as olives, lavender honey, and local cheeses. A daily flower market, with the same hours, is at place de l’Hôtel de Ville (Tues, Thurs, and Sat) or place des Prêcheurs (Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sun). The fish market takes place every morning on the south side of place Richelme. Place de Verdun is packed with crafts and collectibles every Tuesday and Thursday, with stalls selling clothes and linens joining the others on Saturday. And each week on Tuesday and Thursday, cours Mirabeau is lined with a mix of regional treats, from lavender honey to unique handbags.