Planning a trip to American Samoa

Visitor Information

The American Samoa Office of Tourism, P.O. Box 1147, Pago Pago, AS 96799 (tel. 699-9411; fax 699-9414; www.amsamoatourism.com), has offices inconveniently located in Tafuna, near the airport. The office is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. The brochure of the National Park of American Samoa contains the best map of the territory .

The Delegate from American Samoa to the U.S. Congress (Eni Faleomavaega) also dispenses some tourist information. His address is: U.S. House of Representatives, 2422 Rayburn HOB, Washington, DC 20515 (tel. 202/225-8577; www.house.gov/faleomavaega/index.shtml).

Entry Requirements

Except for Samoans, New Zealanders, and a few others, entry permits are not required for stays of up to 30 days. American citizens and nationals need valid passports or certified birth certificates (forget the birth certificate, you will need your passport to go home). Everyone else needs a valid passport and a ticket for onward passage. Women more than 6 months pregnant are not allowed entry.

Immunizations are not required.

When to Go

Climate -- "It did not pour, it flowed," wrote W. Somerset Maugham in his 1921 short story "Rain," the famous tale of prostitute Sadie Thompson, who seduces a puritanical missionary while stranded in American Samoa. This description, however, applies mainly to Pago Pago, which, because of its location behind appropriately named Rainmaker Mountain, gets an average of over 500cm (197 in.) of rain a year. The rest of American Samoa enjoys a typically tropical climate, with lots of very intense sunshine even during the wet season from December to April. Average daily high temperatures range from 83°F (28°C) in the drier, somewhat cooler months of June through September to 86°F (30°C) from December to April, when midday can be hot and sticky. Evenings are usually in the 70s (20s Celsius) all year round.

Holidays & Events -- The biggest celebration is on April 17, when American Samoa Flag Day commemorates the raising of the Stars and Stripes over Tutuila in 1900. The second Sunday in October is observed as White Sunday; children attend church dressed in white and are later honored at family feasts.

Public holidays are New Year's Day, Martin Luther King Jr. Day (third Mon in Jan), President's Day (third Mon in Feb), Good Friday, American Samoa Flag Day (Apr 17), Memorial Day (last Mon in May), the Fourth of July, Labor Day (first Mon in Sept), Columbus Day (second Mon in Oct), Veteran's Day (Nov 11), Thanksgiving (fourth Thurs of Nov), and Christmas Day.

Money

United States currency is used in American Samoa. Samoan tala are not accepted, nor can they be exchanged here.

How to Get Local Currency -- The Bank of Hawaii and the ANZ Amerika Samoa Bank, both in Fagatogo, are open Monday to Friday 9am to 3pm. Both have ATMs at their main offices, and ANZ has one in Pago Plaza, the shopping center at the head of the harbor.

Credit Cards -- American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and Diners Club are accepted by the hotels, car-rental firms, and airlines. Otherwise, it's best to carry cash to cover your anticipated expenses. No one here accepts Discover.

Getting There

From Samoa -- Polynesian Airlines (tel. 800/644-7659 in the U.S., 22-737 in Apia, or 633-4331 in Pago Pago; www.polynesianairlines.com), Inter Island Airways (tel. 42-580 in Samoa, 699-7100 in American Samoa), and South Pacific Express (tel. 28-901 in Apia, 699-9900 in American Samoa) fly between Faleolo Airport in Samoa and Pago Pago several times a day. I always fly on Polynesian because it is a licensed scheduled carrier while the others are charter airlines. Round-trip fares are about S$310 (US$124/£62) if purchased in Apia, US$155 to US$165 (£78-£83 plus taxes if bought in American Samoa.

For the adventurous, a relatively modern ferry, the Lady Naomi, makes the 8-hour voyage between Pago Pago and Apia at least once a week, usually leaving the main wharf in Apia at 11pm on Wednesday and departing Pago Pago's marine terminal at 4pm on Thursday for the return voyage. Tickets should be bought at least a day ahead. One-way fares from Pago Pago to Apia are US$60 (£30) for a seat, US$75 (£38) for a cabin. The Lady Naomi is operated by the Samoa Shipping Corporation, whose ticket office is on Beach Road, opposite the main wharf in Apia (tel. 20-935; www.samoashipping.com). The American Samoa agent is Polynesia Shipping Services (tel. 633-1211). Because the trade winds prevail from the southeast, the trip going west with the wind toward Apia is usually smoother.

From Other Countries -- The only international carrier serving American Samoa is Hawaiian Airlines, which flies from several U.S. West Coast cities to Pago Pago, with a change of planes at Honolulu. Otherwise, you can fly to Faleolo Airport in Samoa on Air New Zealand, Air Pacific, or Polynesian Blue, and then connect to Pago Pago.

Arriving & Departing -- Pago Pago International Airport (PPG) is near the village of Tafuna, about 11km (6 3/4 miles) west of Pago Pago. Taxi fare is about US$15 (£7.50) from the airport to Pago Pago harbor. The "Tafuna" local buses stop at the airport terminal on their way into Pago Pago. Bus fare is US75¢ (38p).

Departure taxes are included in the ticket price.

Seeing American Samoa as a Day Trip from Apia -- You can see American Samoa as a 1-day side trip from independent Samoa. The easiest way is to buy a package from Oceania Travel & Tours, at the Kitano Tusitala Hotel in Apia (tel. 24-443; fax 22-255). The US$350 (£175) per-person fee includes round-trip airfare, a guided tour of Tutuila island, and lunch. Oceania's American Samoa office is above the main post office in Pago Pago (tel. 633-1172).

To do it yourself, reserve a rental car in Pago Pago at least a day in advance (there is too much to see to rely on the bus system or even a taxi). Then fly early in the morning from Faleolo airport to Pago Pago. Go to the airline's office and reconfirm your afternoon return flight, then pick up your car. Drive into Pago Pago and take a stroll. Drive to the eastern end of the island, then backtrack to Pago Pago and have lunch. If you have time, drive out to the western end. Catch the last flight back to Apia.

Getting Around

Inter Island Airways (tel. 42-580 in Samoa, 699-7100 in American Samoa; www.interislandair.com), the local carrier, flies to the Manu'a Islands, but don't count on it. The territory always has trouble keeping a domestic airline flying.

By Rental Car -- The only international car-rental firm in American Samoa is Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 699-2746; www.avis.com), which rents air-conditioned models for US$70 to US$110 (£35-£55) per day, including unlimited mileage, plus an optional US$13 (£6.50) for insurance. Less reliable local firms include Sir Amos (tel. 699-4554), Friendly (tel. 699-7186), and Dollar Rental Car (tel. 633-7716; dollarrentalcar@yahoo.com). The latter is not affiliated with the international rental company of the same name.

Driving Rules -- Your valid home driver's license will be honored in American Samoa. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, and traffic signs are the same as those used in the United States. The speed limit is 15 mph in the built-up areas and 25 mph on the open road.

By Bus -- Gaily-painted aiga buses prowl the roads from early morning until sunset every day except Sunday. Basically they run from the villages to the market in Pago Pago and back, picking up anyone who waves along the way. Some buses leave the market and run to Fagasa on the north coast or to the east end of the island; others go from the market to the west. None goes from one end of the island to the other, so you'll have to change at the market in order to do a stem-to-stern tour of Tutuila. Most drivers are helpful, so just ask how far they go in each direction. Fares are between US75¢ and US$2 (£38p/£1) per ride.

By Taxi -- There are taxi stands at the airport (tel. 699-1179) and at the Pago Pago market (no phone). None of the taxis have meters, so be sure to negotiate the fare before driving off. The fares should be about US$1 (50p) per mile.

Fast Facts

American Express -- There is no American Express representative in American Samoa.

Area Codes -- American Samoa does not have domestic area codes. The international country code is 684.

Business Hours -- Shopping hours are Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm and Saturday from 9am to noon. Government offices are open Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm.

Customs -- Customs allowances are 1 liter of liquor or wine and one carton of cigarettes. Illegal drugs and firearms are prohibited, and pets are quarantined. U.S. citizens get larger customs allowances for purchases made in American Samoa than they do elsewhere in the South Pacific, provided that they have been in the territory for at least 48 hours.

Electricity -- American Samoa uses 110-volt electric current and plugs identical to those in the United States and Canada.

Embassies & Consulates -- Independent Samoa and the Republic of Korea have consulates, and the Republic of China (Taiwan) maintains a liaison office in Pago Pago, primarily to assist the Korean and Taiwanese crews of the tuna boats unloading their catches at the tuna canneries.

Emergencies - The emergency telephone number for the police, fire department, and ambulance is tel. 911. In a medical emergency, you can call or go to Lyndon B. Johnson Tropical Medical Center. The police station (tel. 633-1111) is in Fagatogo, across the malae (open field) from the Fono.

Etiquette & Customs -- Young American Samoans have adopted Western-style dress, including jeans and shorts of respectable length, although the traditional wraparound lava-lava is still worn by many older men and women. In keeping with Samoan custom regarding modesty, visitors should not wear bathing suits or other skimpy clothing away from the hotels. Women must confine their bikini tops to the beach.

Eyeglasses -- Pacific Vision Center, in Pago Plaza at the head of the harbor (tel. 633-1076).

Firearms -- Guns are tightly controlled, and permits are required.

Gambling -- There are no casinos or other organized forms of gambling in American Samoa. Money is wagered at very popular bingo games.

Healthcare -- The Lyndon B. Johnson Tropical Medical Center (tel. 633-5555 for emergencies, or 633-1222) in Faga'alu west of Pago Pago (turn off the main road at Tom Ho Chung's store) handles the territory's medical and dental services. The outpatient clinic is open 24 hours daily. Frankly, you will get much better treatment in Apia.

Insects -- There are no dangerous insects in American Samoa, and the plentiful mosquitoes do not carry malaria.

Internet Access -- DDW Internet Cafe, in Pago Plaza at the head of the bay (tel. 633-5297), has one computer with Internet access for US$3 (£1.50) for 15 minutes.

Libraries -- The Feleti-Barstow Public Library (tel. 633-5816), in the government buildings in Utulei, is open Monday to Wednesday and Friday 9am to 5pm, Tuesday and Thursday 9am to 7pm, and Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Liquor Laws -- The minimum drinking age is 21. Beer, wine, and spirits are available at the grocery stores.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The daily Samoa News (www.samoanews.com) is the dominant newspaper here.

Mail -- The U.S. Postal Service's main post office is in Fagatogo. Regular U.S. domestic postage rates apply, and first-class and priority letters and packages go by air between American Samoa and the United States. Unless you pay the first-class or priority mail rate, parcel post is sent by ship and will take several weeks to reach Hawaii or the U.S. mainland. The post office is open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 3:30pm and Saturday 9am to noon. The zip code for Pago Pago is 96799.

Radio & TV -- The transmitters atop Mount Alava are used during the day to send educational TV programs to the territory's public schools and to transmit CNN and live sporting events. At night they broadcast U.S. network entertainment programs. The broadcasts can be seen 129km (80 miles) away, on eastern Upolu in Samoa. Many homes in American Samoa also have cable television. The territory has three FM radio stations, which transmit American network news broadcasts on the hour.

Safety -- Street crime is not a serious problem in American Samoa except late at night around Pago Pago Harbor. Fa'a Samoa and its rules of communal ownership are still in effect, however, so it's wise not to leave cameras, watches, or other valuables unattended or in your rental car.

Taxes -- The airport departure tax is included in ticket prices. There is no sales tax.

Telephone & Fax -- The American Samoa Telecommunications Authority (SamoaTelCo; www.samoatelco.com) provides land-line phone service. The system is the same as in the United States.

To call American Samoa: Dial the international access code (011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia), American Samoa's country code 684, and the local number (there are no area codes within American Samoa).

To call the United States and Canada from within American Samoa: Dial 1 followed by the area code and local number.

To make international calls from within American Samoa: First dial 011, then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), then the area code and phone number. You can also place overseas calls at SamoaTelCo's office, diagonally across the Fagatogo malae from the Fono building. It is open 24 hours daily.

To make domestic calls within American Samoa: No prefix or area code is required for domestic long distance calls, so dial the local number.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 411 for information.

For operator assistance: Dial tel. 0 for operator assistance in making international calls.

Toll-free numbers: Calling a 1-800 number in the U.S. or Canada from here is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Pay phones: Public pay phones are the same type used throughout the United States. The easiest way to call home from here is to buy a prepaid Blue Sky card, available at many shops. You can use these cards from any phone as you would a prepaid card at home.

Access numbers: Several international companies have access numbers here, including AT&T (tel. 633-2872), MCI (tel. 633-2624), Sprint (tel. 633-1000), GTE/Verizon (tel. 633-1706), and Hawaii Verizon (tel. 633-2482).

Cellphones: Blue Sky (tel. 699-2759; www.bluesky.as), which has offices in Fagatogo Plaza and in the Lafou shopping center on the main road in Nu'uli, rents cellphones for US$25 (£13) a week plus airtime. You can also buy a prepaid SIM card for your own unlocked GSM phone; these cost US$20 (£10) and include US$10 (£5) worth of airtime.

Time -- The local time in American Samoa is the same as in independent Samoa: 11 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. That's 3 hours behind Pacific Standard Time (4 hr. behind during daylight saving time, which American Samoa does not observe). In other words, if it's noon standard time in California and 3pm in New York, it's 9am in Pago Pago. If daylight saving time is in effect in the U.S., it's 8am in American Samoa. American Samoa is east of the international date line and shares the same date with North America, 1 day behind Tonga, Fiji, Australia, and New Zealand.

Tipping -- Although this is a U.S. territory, officially there is no tipping in American Samoa. A lot of American Samoans have lived in the United States, however, so the practice is not exactly uncommon.

Water -- -- The tap water is treated and is safe to drink except during periods of heavy rain.

Weights & Measures -- American Samoa is the only country or territory in the South Pacific whose official system of weights and measures is the same as the U.S. -- pounds and miles, not the metric system of kilograms and kilometers.