Things To Do in Amiens

Julius Caesar praised the fertility of the fields around Amiens. During the Middle Ages, Les Hortillonages, an expanse of almost 242 hectares (598 acres) at the eastern edge of the core, was set aside for the cultivation of all kinds of herbs, fruits, and vegetables. Irrigated by a web of canals fed by the Somme, the district is still producing foodstuffs. Not long ago, the harvest was floated on barges and in shallow-bottomed boats to be sold on the Quai Bélu, near the cathedral. Although today the produce comes from the fields into the town center by truck, the ritual retains its medieval name, the Marché sur l'Eau (though locals increasingly refer to it as Marché St-Leu). The tradition continues every Saturday from 8:30am to 1pm, when the river's quays are transformed into a huge outdoor vegetable market.

A boat excursion April to October through the swamplands and tributaries of La Somme gives visitors a firsthand view of this archaic time-tested agrarian hideaway. You can reserve these at www.leshortillonnages-amiens.com or tel. 03-22-92-12-18. The cost is 10€ adults; 9€ children 11 to 16; 6€ children 3 to 10; free for age 2 and under).

A few paces north of the cathedral, straddling both banks of the Somme, is a cluster of carefully restored 13th- and 14th-century houses in a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets. Known as the Quartier St-Leu, this is a neighborhood of gift shops, antiques shops, art galleries, boutiques, and cafes.

Jules Verne, author of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea and Journey to the Center of the Earth, is buried in Amiens at the Cimetière de la Madeleine, rue St-Maurice, northwest of the town center. The representation of Verne on the Beaux Arts tomb appears to be physically rising from the dead. The cemetery is open April to October daily 8am to 6pm. From November to March it is open daily 8am to 5pm. Maison de Jules Verne, Verne's home at 2 rue Charles Dubois is now a wonderful small musuem (tel. 03-22-45-45-75; 7.50€ adults, 4€ children ages 6–17, free for EU residents age 25 and under; Wed–Mon 10am–12:30pm and 2–6pm). The stately townhouse where the author plunged himself into his imaginary worlds look very much as it did when Verne was still alive. A collection of more than 700 objects offer insights into many of the author’s inspirations.

You'll find the largest number of nightspots around quai Bélu in the St-Leu district. Try Disco Le Millenium, 87 rue Gutenberg (tel. 03-22-43-36-42), the largest and best in town. It's filled with the young people of Amiens Thursday to Saturday nights.

If you're big on musical events, head for the 1950 Picard-style house next to the train station, Le Grand Wazoo, 5 rue Vulfran-Warmé (tel. 03-22-91-64-91). Named in honor of a Frank Zappa album, this club draws a mixed crowd intent on listening to local musicians as well as more famous groups. It's open Monday to Saturday 6pm until 1am. Concerts (usually heavy metal, acid rock, and techno) take place about three times a week, usually on Friday and Saturday. When there's live music, cover ranges from 2€ to 5€; otherwise, admission is free.

While you're checking out the scene along the canal area, stop in the old medieval house that's home to the restaurant/wine bar La Queue de Vache (the Cow's Tail), 51 quai Bélu (tel. 03-22-91-38-91). Containing no more than 30 seats on two different levels, the restaurant and wine bar serves snacks and full-fledged meals, with main courses priced at 7€ to 18€. It pours about 30 wines, many sold by the glass. Platters of sausage, terrines, and cheeses go well with the wine, but if you want a full platter, consider a hearty portion of roasted magret de canard (duck). Every first Tuesday of the month, there's live New Orleans-style jazz.

Nelson's Pub, 5 quai Bélu (tel. 03-22-91-56-00), and its next-door neighbor, Le Newport, 3 quai Bélu (tel. 03-22-91-01-55), play recorded rock 'n' roll in environments favored by thirsty conversationalists. A short walk away is Le Squale, 18 rue de Dodane (tel. 03-22-72-20-46), a pub with pinewood planks and a decor that reminds some Francophiles of the interior of a wine barrel.

If you're gay and on the loose in Amiens, Red and White, rue de la Dodane, in the Quartier St-Leu (no phone), offers the chance to meet and talk with like-minded folks who might have dropped in for an after-dinner drink or to hear some music. Its opening and closing times tend to be erratic.