★★ FRENCH[em]Among the slew of Asian eateries and gay bars peppering Reguliersdwarsstraat, the city’s most famous gay street, Lion Noir stands out not only for its French menu, but also for its eccentric interior. A hodgepodge of taxidermy, animal skeletons, and other curios dot the dual-level space, which attracts scenesters who come for the quirky ambiance as much as the food. As for the grub, it’s quite good, with classic French choices like Fine de Claire oysters on the half shell, duck liver terrine, steak tartare, and at lunch, a nice selection of salads. Dinner service stops at 10pm but the first-floor bar and lounge offers drinks and snacks till the wee hours. The back terrace (open only when it’s warm) is an oasis of calm surrounded by flower-filled private gardens.