Things To Do in Ankara

In spite of Ankara being one of the top three cities in Turkey for work and play, my unofficial subtitle for this section is, "Give Me One Good Reason to Spend the Night in Ankara." Like any capital city, Ankara offers an endless selection of cultural institutions, activities, and events, but let's be realistic -- you didn't come all this way to check out the Museum of the Centennial of History of Sports and Education now, did you? But you did come to see the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, and you won't be disappointed. The question is, then what?

Although the Atatürk Mausoleum (Anitkabir), set on the western side of the city, deserves a look, most of your free time should be spent in and around the citadel; it's the most picturesque and typical neighborhood of old Ankara, with some of the best views. Then head down to Tunali Hilmi in the early evening for a walk through Ankara's version of SoHo, and grab a bite and a glass of wine.

Especially for Kids

The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations recently began activities that allow kids to be archaeologists for a day. Some of the activities include building models of objects on display, pressing coins as the Lydians did, and spelling their names using hieroglyphs.

Over in Kizilay is the Neverland Çocuk Kitapevi (Selanik Cad. 65/C Kizilay; tel. 0312/424-1513), a bookstore and emporium of picture books, PC games and toys targeting the youthful.

The Atatürk Farm and Zoo (Atatürk Orman Çiftligi), 6.5km (4 miles) south of Ankara along the road to Bursa, was originally commissioned by Atatürk to demonstrate to a skeptical populace the possibilities inherent in an apparently barren land. Thanks to his initiative, and the latest agricultural techniques (ca. 1920), the farm and zoo has become a popular afternoon-picnic destination, with its wide-open green spaces, cafes, and restaurant. The fact that the land does in fact yield fruit is proven by the excellent beer, old-fashioned ice cream, yogurt, and milk that visitors can sample. There's also an on-site replica of the house where Atatürk was born.

In the street bazaar along Çikrikçilar Yokusu, near Ulus Meydani, the strange sensation of being left alone permeates the air. In all of your travels around Turkey, you can bet that this is the one place you will not be accosted, hassled, harassed, or even approached. This might be due to the fact that this bazaar sees few foreign visitors. But even in the face of satin bedcovers, floor-length coats, and plastic shoes, a quiet stroll gazing at the local linens and essential items of daily life in Ankara is a lovely way to spend an afternoon.

At the end of Çikrikçilar Yokusu is Bakircilar Çarsisi, a street of local shops displaying a basic mix of handcrafted copper, kitchen, and hardware items. Heading left up the hill to the citadel gate is a street with a village feel and lined with spices, dried fruits, and nuts, all set out in bulk outside the shop entrances. There's also a good amount of wicker items and copper up this way, until you reach the gate of the citadel, where handicrafts give way to chintzy souvenirs.

Ankara has no shortage of modern shopping centers. Upscale shops like Burberry's, Beymen, Calvin Klein, and Polo can be found in the Karum Is Merkezi, the shopping mall near the Sheraton and Hilton hotels. For those looking for more ready-to-wear, step outside Karum Is Merkezi onto Tunali Hilmi Caddesi (the street running north-south between Kocatepe and Kizilay). The nearby Arjantin Caddesi in Gaziosmanpasa is where you'll find storefronts of the world's poshest labels. Don't bother with the Atakule Tower in Çankaya; most of the shops are of low quality or closed altogether.

The epicenter of Ankara's modern shopping life is in Kizilay, swarming with students and office workers on their lunch breaks. The Gima department store offers low-priced essentials and groceries, and is a useful marker to aid you in crossing the wide boulevard over to the streets between Tuna Caddesi and Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvari (Ziya Gökalp Cad., west of Atatürk Bulv.). Opposite the Gima is the more upscale Yeni Karamürsel, and interspersed among the outdoor cafes and beer houses around Sakarya Caddesi are a number of new- and used-book stores, most with a selection of titles in English, along with a passable number of Internet cafes. Kocabeyoglu Pasaji just off Atatürk Bulvari is the neighborhood's resident street-style bazaar, while over on Izmir Caddesi, you'll find leather stores like Moda Canta and togo.

If you've got a car, head out to where most of the better shops have transferred -- to the Armada Shopping Center, located off the eastbound side of the road to Eskisehir, or the Mudo megastore on the Konya road.

Even without the slightest intention of buying a sack of potatoes, it's still fun to take a walk through one of the many neighborhood pazars (local markets), where you're likely to find Polo or Banana Republic overstocks, as well as other necessary and not-so-necessary goods. The largest market is located in the center of Ankara behind the Abdi Ipekçi Park in Sihhiye. The market operates on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and like other local markets, is open from dawn to dusk. Also on Wednesday is the covered bazaar in Asagi Aranci, down the hill off Hosdere Caddesi near Tomurcuk Sokak. On Mondays the Maltepe Pazari spreads out behind the Maltepe Mosque, and on Fridays, the Bahçelievler Pazari takes over 10 Sokak near Azerbaycan Caddesi in Bahçelievler. The Ankara Hali is a chaotic permanent market in Ulus, saturated with stalls of fresh fish, fruit, and vegetables. Farmers gather here in summertime to sell their own produce. The area is also full of butcher shops and charcuteries. Assembling a picnic meal of fresh cheese, meats, olives, and dried fruits is a tempting prospect; if you walk along Hisarparki Caddesi (Fortress Park Ave.) up the hill toward the citadel, you can picnic on the grass or sit on the wall at the base of the fortress.

Ankara may be a happening cultural center for the highbrow arts, but because most travelers pass through at a brisk pace, few get to actually take advantage of these events. Many do have time for a drink, though, and can select from a laundry list of pubs, wine bars, and chic cafes catering to the hefty consular population, or, at the other end of the scale, more humble diversions popular with the city's resident students. Most hotels have live music to offer as well; even Ahmet over at the Angora House will pull out his fasil and perform some folk songs with little prodding.

The Performing Arts

With Ankara's designation as capital of the new republic, the city had the responsibility of becoming a cultural capital as well. Rising out of the dust of an old village, Ankara has surpassed the other cities in Turkey to become the most active cultural center in the country.

Ankara is home to the prestigious State Opera and Ballet (www.dobgm.gov.tr), the Presidential Symphony Orchestra (www.cso.gov.tr), and a large number of theaters that feature the work of Turkish artists. The Presidential Symphony Orchestra performs twice weekly on Fridays and Saturdays during the October-to-May season, showcasing classical music by Turkish and foreign composers. Monthly programs for the State Opera and Ballet are listed in the Sunday edition of the English-language Hurriyet Daily News, as well as on the venue's Internet site (www.devtiyatro.gov.tr; in Turkish). Tickets can be purchased at the Opera House (tel. 0312/324-2210), in Opera Meydani, Ulus, up to a month in advance of a performance.

Festivals -- The capital also nurtures the arts by hosting several festivals throughout the year. Ankara's International Film Days, in March, and the Sevda Cenap International Arts and Music Festival, in April and May, attract the best of Turkish and international musicians. The Children's Festival is held in April, with groups of children from all over the world arriving to take part in this colorful, lively event. On August 30, Ankara celebrates Victory Day with pomp and circumstance appropriate for the capital city. Ankara also organizes a series of fairs throughout the year in Altin Park, attracting families for an afternoon of cotton candy, piping-hot gözleme fresh off the cart, and the occasional kiddie ride.

The Club, Cafe & Bar Scene

Much of Ankara's nightlife is geared toward the diplomatic community, with cafes, jazz clubs, and the odd English pub clustered at the south of town. A more youthful crowd, predominantly from the nearby university, congregates in the outdoor beer gardens around Sakarya Caddesi in Kizilay. A few restaurants at the citadel offer nightly music, including establishments immediately to the left inside the entrance and next to the Angora Hotel that change management regularly. The Divan Çengelhan Brasserie features live music on weekends. In the neighborhood of Kavaklidere, just off Tunali Hilmi on Abjantin Caddesi, is a lineup of smart-looking, candlelit bistros; there's even a Starbucks for those of you feeling homesick. Below are a few additional and popular old reliables.