Things To Do in Antigua

In St. John's

The most colorful sight of St. John's is the Saturday morning market, when many islanders come into the capital to hawk everything from birds and luscious fruits to beautiful flowers and handicrafts. The sights, sounds, and smells of Antigua are at their photographic best here from 8am to noon. However, don't snap a picture of any market person without asking permission first. Most will want a tip for the privilege of taking their photograph. The public market lies on Market Street at the southern end of St. John's, at the point where it intersects with All Saints and Valley roads.

St. John's Cathedral, the Anglican church between Long and Newgate streets at Church Lane (tel. 268/462-4686), has resurrected itself time and again -- it's been destroyed by earthquakes and rebuilt on the same site at least three times since it was first constructed in 1683. The present structure dates from 1845. In 2005 the clock on its facade was restored and made workable again. Exhibits at the Museum of Antigua & Barbuda, at Market and Long streets (tel. 268/462-1469), are within one of Antigua's oldest buildings, built by English colonials in 1750 as a courthouse. The museum covers the island's history, from prehistoric days up to its independence from Britain in 1981. Exhibitions include examples of each of the semiprecious stones (especially jade) you can find on Antigua, as well as models of sugar plantations, steam engines, paintings, and historical prints. It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1pm and on Saturday from 10am to 2pm. The entrance fee is $3 for adults; students and children 11 and under enter free.

Around The Island

Eighteen kilometers (11 miles) southeast of St. John's is Nelson's Dockyard National Park (tel. 268/481-5028; www.nationalparksantigua.com), one of the eastern Caribbean's biggest attractions and the world's most visible symbol of the once-formidable power of England's navy within the West Indies. Because of its almost constant state of archeological restoration, it's defined by its curators as "a continuing cultural landscape," with many aspects of "a living park" that's permanently associated in a major way with the expansion and protection of Britain's once- formidable empire. English ships took refuge from the hurricanes in this harbor as early as 1671. The park's centerpiece is the restored Georgian naval dockyard, which was used by admirals Nelson, Rodney, and Hood, and was the home of the British fleet during the Napoleonic Wars. From 1784 to 1787, Nelson commanded the British navy in the Leeward Islands and made his headquarters at English Harbour. The dockyard museum, the gem within a landscape that's almost constantly in a state of restoration, recaptures the 18th-century era of privateers, pirates, and battles at sea. Its colonial naval buildings remain as they were when Nelson was here. Although Nelson never lived at Admiral House (tel. 268/481-5028) -- it was built in 1855 -- his telescope and tea caddy are on display, along with other nautical memorabilia.

The park itself has sandy beaches and tropical vegetation, with various species of cactus as well as mangroves. A migrating colony of African cattle egrets shelters in the mangroves. Archaeological sites here predate Christ. Nature trails, with coastal views, lead you through the flora. Tours of the dockyard last 15 to 20 minutes; nature walks along the trails can last anywhere from 30 minutes to 5 hours. The dockyard and all the buildings noted in this section are open daily from 9am to 5pm. Children 12 and under are admitted free. The admission price of $5 includes the Admiral House and the Shirley Heights Lookout.

The best nature trail on Antigua, a well-tended footpath, goes up the hill from English Harbour to Shirley Heights, beginning at the Galleon Beach Hotel. Follow the sign that points to the lookout. The trail is marked with yellow and/or green tape tied to the branches of trees and shrubs surviving in the blinding sunlight of these arid altitudes. Eventually you reach a summit of nearly 150m (492 ft.), where you're rewarded with a panoramic view. If you'd like to get more information about the walk, you can pick up a free brochure at the dockyard at the office of the National Parks Authority. This walk is easy; it takes less than an hour to reach the peak.

Forts & Photo Ops

In the 1700s, Antigua's coastline was ringed with British forts. Although they're in ruins today, the views from these former military strongholds are among the most panoramic in the Caribbean -- and you can visit them for free. You can begin at St. John's harbor (the capital), which was once guarded by Fort Barrington on the south and Fort James on the north. Later you can head down to Fort James Bay, where you'll find a couple of bars right on the sand. The most evocative of these is Russell's Beach Bar: Positioned directly within the ruins of the 18th-century Fort of St. Johns, it's at its most active on Sunday afternoon. Its funky West Indian setting, smack in the center of a ruined English colonial fort, makes it an appealing place to unwind with a beer and perhaps a platter of grilled fish. In the south, near English Harbour, check out the view from Shirley Heights.

On the way back, take Fig Tree Drive, a 32km (20-mile) circular drive across the main mountain range. It passes through lush tropical hills and fishing villages along the southern coast. You can pick up the road just outside Liberta, north of Falmouth. Winding through a rainforest, it passes thatched villages, every one with a church and lots of goats and children running about. But don't expect fig trees: Fig is an Antiguan name for bananas.

Betty's Hope (tel. 268/462-1469), a picturesque ruin just outside the village of Pares on the eastbound route to Long Bay, was Antigua's first sugar plantation (from 1650). You can tour it Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm ($2 for adults, free for children). Exhibits in the visitor center trace the sugar era, and you can also see the full restoration of one of the original plantation's two windmills. If you visit, you may see the local masons, who are sporadically involved in the restoration of the curing and boiling plant, where sugar cane used to be processed into sugar, rum, and molasses.

Indian Town is one of Antigua's national parks, on the island's northeastern point. Over the centuries, Atlantic breakers have lashed the rocks and carved a natural bridge known as Devil's Bridge. It's surrounded by numerous blowholes spouting surf, a dramatic sight. An environmentally protected area, Indian Town Point lies at the tip of a deep cove, Indian Town Creek. The park fronts the Atlantic at Long Bay, just west of Indian Town Creek at the eastern side of Antigua. Birders flock here to see some 36 different species. The park is blanketed mainly by the acacia tree, a dry shrub locally known as "cassie." A large, meadowed headland around Devil's Bridge makes a great spot for a picnic. Arm yourself with directions and a good map before you start out. The main highway ends at Long Bay, but several hiking trails lead to the coastline. Our favorite hike is to Indian Town Point at a distance of 2km (1 1/4 miles). This is the most scenic walk in the park, passing through a protected area of exceptional natural beauty. Long Bay is great for snorkeling, but you'll need to bring your gear.

Most of Antigua's shops are clustered on St. Mary's Street or High Street in St. John's. Some stores are open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 4pm, but this varies greatly from place to place -- Antiguan shopkeepers are an independent lot. Many of them close at noon on Thursday.

Duty-free items include English woolens and linens. You can also purchase Antiguan goods: local pottery, straw work, rum, floppy foldable hats, shell curios, and hand-printed fabrics.

If you're in St. John's on a Saturday morning, visit the fruit and vegetable market at the south end of Market Street. The juicy Antiguan black pineapple alone is worth the trip.

One prime hunting ground in St. John's is the Redcliffe Quay waterfront on the southern edge of town, where nearly three dozen boutiques are housed in former warehouses set around tree-shaded, landscaped courtyards. Our favorite is A Thousand Flowers (tel. 268/462-4264), which sells linens, all-natural fiber, rayon, and other fabrics.

At the Gazebo (tel. 268/460-2776), expect a little bit of everything, from a mass of south-of-the-border pottery to Indonesian wood items, and (our favorite) stunning blue-glaze plates. Additional Redcliffe Quay shops include Isis (tel. 268/462-4602) for unique Egyptian jewelry, cotton gowns, handicrafts, inlaid marquetry work, and Afghan jewelry. It's often worth checking out the Goldsmitty (tel. 268/462-4601; www.goldsmitty.com), where precious stones are set in unique, exquisite creations of 14- and 18-karat gold.

Noreen Phillips, Redcliffe Quay (tel. 268/462-3127; www.noreenphillips.com), an entity entirely based in Antigua, is one of the island's major fashion outlets. Cruise-ship passengers beeline here for both casual wear and beaded glitzy dress clothes. Exotic Antigua, Radcliffe Quay, St. Mary's Street (tel. 268/562-1288), specializes in Caribbean-made gifts and clothing, including T-shirts and casual wear, and handicrafts.

At Lipstick, Heritage Quay (tel. 268/562-1133), you can browse a daunting array of cosmetics and perfumes, some of them locally made, many of the others imported from the U.S., Britain, and France. Shoul's Chief Store, St. Mary's Street at Market Street (tel. 268/462-1140), is an all-purpose department store selling fabric, appliances, souvenirs (more than 300 kinds), and general merchandise.

Heritage Quay, Antigua's premier shopping-and-entertainment complex, is a well-maintained neighborhood close to the cruise-ship piers that features some 40 duty-free shops and an arcade for local artists and artisans. Its restaurants and food court offer a range of cuisines and views of St. John's Harbour. Many shops are open all day, at least from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Saturday, and later, including on Sunday, if there's a cruise ship in port.

Tucked away within Heritage Quay are a number of shops. The Camera Shop (tel. 268/462-3619), a Kodak distributor and photofinisher, sells sunglasses, film, and brand-name cameras. Fashiondock (tel. 268/462-9672) is known for its duty-free Prada, Moschino, and Gucci accessories, plus other Italian styles. Sunseekers (tel. 268/462-4523) carries the largest collection of duty-free swimwear in the Caribbean. Colombian Emeralds (tel. 268/462-3462) is the world's biggest retailer of these gemstones. Abbott's Jewelry (tel. 268/462-3107) sells the best selection of watches on Antigua, plus china and crystal. Nick Maley, a makeup artist who worked on Star Wars and The Empire Strikes Back, founded Island Arts, upstairs at Heritage Quay (tel. 268/462-2787). You can purchase his own fine-art reproductions or browse through everything from low-cost prints to works by artists exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Rain Boutique, Lower St. Mary's (tel. 268/462-0118), sells casual clothes, formal wear, hats, scarves, shoes, jewelry, and handbags.

At Falmouth Harbour, Seahorse Studios & Gift Shop (tel. 268/460-1457) specializes in batiks, T-shirts, signs, and table linens. Its affiliated branch at English Harbour, Seahorse Art Gallery (tel. 268/460-1457), sells paintings, engravings, and watercolors, with lots of emphasis on seascapes.

The best for last: Head for Harmony Hall, in Brown's Bay Mill, near Freetown (tel. 268/460-4120), following the signs along the road to Freetown and Half Moon Bay. This restored 1843 plantation house and sugar mill overlooking Nonsuch Bay is ideal for a lunch stopover, a shopping expedition, even an overnight. It displays an excellent selection of Caribbean arts and crafts. Lunch is served daily from noon to 3:30pm, featuring Green Island lobster, flying fish, and other specialties. Sunday is barbecue day.

Steel bands, limbo dancers, calypso singers, folkloric groups -- there's always something happening by night on Antigua. Your hotel can probably tell you where to go on any given night. If you want to roam Antigua at night looking for that hot local club, arrange to have a taxi pick you up so you're not stranded in the wilds somewhere. The following clubs are reliable hot spots.

The best and most elaborate gambling joint on island is Grand Princess Casino, Jolly Harbour (tel. 268/562-9900), spread across three floors, offering a lot more than gambling. You can dine in the first-class Bellagio Restaurant, patronize an Internet cafe, get down in a dance club, enjoy flashy Las Vegas entertainment in a lounge, or even work out at the rooftop fitness center. A small but flamboyant alternative is the St. James's Club at Mamora Bay (tel. 268/460-5000). Other action is found at King's Casino on Heritage Quay (tel. 268/462-1727), the only casino in St. John's proper. Entrance is free and no ID is required. You must be 18 to play.

The best place to be on island on Sunday afternoon is the bar and restaurant at the Shirley Heights Lookout at Shirley Heights (tel. 268/728- 0636). Beginning at 4pm, a barbecue is offered here, followed by a reggae and steel-pan band for dancing later in the evening. Celebrities such as Chuck Norris, R&B singer Bobbie Brown, Sting, and even Whitney Houston have joined in a weekly be-in that sometimes evolves into the island's largest and most free-form social event. Many locals arrive on any late afternoon, grab a sundowner, and head for the patio in the rear for a sweeping view over the arid landscapes surrounding English Harbour and Antigua's most spectacular sunset. Sunday's $6 cover charge includes the first drink.

Antigua's hippest nighttime venue is the Coast, Heritage Quay, St. John's (tel. 268/562-6278; www.coast.ag), drawing both islanders and visitors to its precincts, where they are entertained by Antiguan live bands, especially techno music, in a raucous setting of good times with plenty of drink and local specialties. No admission is charged.

Another venue is Rush Nightclub & Connors Sports Bar, Runaway Bay (tel. 268/562-7874), open Thursday to Saturday. Doors open nightly and the cover is free on Thursday and Saturday, rising to $10 on Friday. Resident DJs entertain the mostly young crowd with hip-hop, soca, reggae, and R&B music.

At English Harbour, the joint is always rocking at Abracadabra Restaurant & Disco-Bar, Nelson's Dockyard (tel. 268/460-2701; www.theabracadabra.com). Trattoria such as homemade pastas and fresh seafood, even lobster from an aquarium, launch the night, which becomes a dance party as the evening progresses. There's always something happening here: live jazz, reggae performances, even costume parties. Check it out.

Admiral's Inn (tel. 268/460-1027) is a barefoot-friendly kind of place. You can always play a game of darts, and there's live music Thursday and Saturday nights, usually a local 14-piece steel band. Try one of Norman's daiquiris (the island's best), and ask the bartender about the famous guests he's served. Another much-frequented English Harbour watering hole is the Life Bar, Nelson's Dockyard, VHF no. 68 (tel. 268/562-2353), the most popular spot for visitors arriving aboard yachts. We like its nautical atmosphere and the wooden pier that the action centers on. On occasion it's West Indian party time, with live groups performing. The most authentic British pub at Nelson's Dockyard is Mainbrace (tel. 268/460-1058), with darts, of course; fish and chips; and, on some nights, live jazz. The pub is part of the Copper and Lumber Store Hotel.

18 Carat, Lower Church Street, St. John's (tel. 268/562-1858), is the most popular and sought-after dance club and night bar on the island. Expect a cover charge, ranging from $4 to $8 per person, an indoor-outdoor format that's open to a view of the night air of downtown St. John's, and a barrage of music that includes lots of reggae and soca. It's open Friday to Sunday 8pm to 1am.

Sand Haven, Runaway Bay (tel. 268/771-6803; www.sandhavenantigua.com), is the hangout of local cricketers and always attracts a fun-loving bevy of patrons who dance the night away after ordering Tex-Mex fare. The beach bar associated with this place is especially busy on weekends.

Live nightly entertainment takes place right on the beach at Millers by the Sea, at Runaway Beach (tel. 268/462-9414). Its happy hour is the best in town.