You don’t have to veer far off the beaten track to find the Chiocchetti family’s plain, stone-walled dining room, where the focus is on authentic Umbrian home cooking. You’ll discover that both body and soul benefit from their specialties, such as cannelloni all’Assisiana (fresh pasta sheets wrapped around a veal ragù, all baked under parmigiana) and cognilio in salsa di mele (rabbit roasted in a sauce of wine and apples).