"Loud" and "flashy"—courtesy of dim mood lighting and dramatic light fixtures—are two words that come to mind when I think back on my experiences at JCT. Kitchen. "Delicious" and "delightful" are others. True, even in a cozy bistro-style banquette on my last visit, my party of four could hardly hear the person next to her speak, but that was quite alright as the food stole the spotlight. My table started with the deviled eggs, which were creamy gobs of goodness. We also had a side of Brussels sprouts in smoked onion vinaigrette, mac 'n' cheese with Benton's bacon, and more biscuits with homemade jam and skillet cornbread than we should have. The vegetable plate, which comes with buttered potato dumplings, preserved tomatoes, smoked mushrooms, and other seasonal produce, could sway even the most dedicated of carnivores. The fried chicken is also a treat and probably the most ordered item on the menu; as there's a limited supply, the restaurant suggests arriving early if that's what you intend to eat. I will be back to sample the sticky "coffee" pudding with pumpkin ganache, frozen cinnamon soufflé, fig, and pumpkin toffee. Or maybe the rum-sopped coconut cake. Or even the mudslide cookies with cherries. Heck, I'll probably cave and order one of each. There are some great cocktails on the menu as well, like the Spotted Derby, made with rye, pink peppercorns, grapefruit juice, and orange blossom honey. The Sunday Supper is a steal; for just $24, you can sample some of JCT.'s best plates. If you didn't make a reservation and don't feel like waiting, you can camp out at the upstairs bar, where you'll be able to order bar bites.