Planning a trip to Auckland

Getting Around

Are You Lost? — If you need help finding your way around the city, see the Auckland Transport website for an overview of public transport services.

By Bus

NZBus (tel. 09/373-9118), the intracity bus system, offers good service to most city highlights. Within Auckland, they run the North Star, Metrolink, Go West, Waka Pacific, The Link, and the new Inner City Service buses. At the time of writing, a number of significant changes planned to improve bus services around the central business district (CBD) and the suburbs of Parnell, Ponsonby, and Point Chevalier, had begun to roll out. Most should be in place by the time you arrive, but if in doubt, check the Maxx website, or ask for details at the Britomart Transport Centre. You can pick up timetables at Britomart Transport Centre and at the visitor centers listed above. For schedules, fares, and routes, call the company or pick up the free brochure Auckland's Top Spots by Public Transport from a visitor center. Fares depend on zones, running from NZ$1.80 to NZ$10.50. Children 5 to 15 pay half-price; those 4 and under ride free. Exact change is not required. If you intend to ride the bus frequently, spend NZ$12 and get a 1-day Bus About Pass for unlimited travel. The pass is good (after 9am) on The Link, Metrolink, North Star, Go West, and Waka Pacific buses. The 1-day Discovery Pass (NZ$16), is valid on the above buses, plus trains and Fullers North Shore ferries. There's also a NZ$25 Family Bus About Pass for 1 adult and 5 children, or 2 adults and 4 children traveling together (valid after 9am). Buy passes from the driver or at the terminals.

Warning: Auckland buses stop running around 11:30pm (earlier on some routes) Monday through Saturday, and 10pm on Sunday. If you're planning a night of revelry, count on taking a taxi home; or look out for NZ Bus's NiteRider Bus (tel. 09/366-6400), which runs from 1 to 3:40am on Saturday and Sunday. Fares are NZ$6 to NZ$8.

The Link bus service has also been streamlined to speed up the service. It runs both ways in a circuit around the attractions of the inner city rim. These distinctive, environmentally friendly green buses charge a NZ$1.80 fare. The whole circuit takes an hour and includes Quay Park, Downtown, the Britomart Transport Centre, Parnell, Newmarket, Karangahape Road, Ponsonby, SKYCITY, Queen Street, the University, and more. It operates every 10 minutes from 7am to 7pm Monday through Friday, and 7am to 11pm on Saturday; every 15 minutes from 7pm to 11:30pm Monday through Saturday, and 7am to 11pm on Sunday. NZ Bus Day and Group Passes are good on The Link. For more information, call NZ Bus.

The free City Circuit bus is scheduled for replacement by a new frequent Inner City Service operated by NZ Bus. It will link Karangahape Road with the waterfront Wynyard Quarter via Queen Street and Britomart Transport Centre. Buses will run every 5 minutes from Britomart up Queen Street from 7am to 7pm on weekdays and every 10 minutes at other times; and every 10 minutes to the Wynyard Quarter from 7am to 7pm, and every 20 minutes at other times. The service is expected to be in place in 2012; see the website for updates, including fees.

A new Outer Loop Service based on The Link but taking in a much wider circuit around the suburbs surrounding the CBD, will run every 15 minutes from Britomart Transport Centre. It connects to the main shopping centers of St. Lukes, Mount Eden, and Newmarket, and to MOTAT, Auckland Zoo, and Auckland Museum.

The double-decker Auckland Explorer Bus (tel. 0800/439-756 in NZ, or 09/524-7929) departs from the Sky Tower or the Ferry Building on Quay Street every half-hour from 9am to 5pm daily in summer and 10am to 5pm in winter. It visits 14 major Auckland attractions; for NZ$40 adults, NZ$20 children 4 to 16, and NZ$90 family, you can hop on and off as many times as you want in a day. They accept Visa.

The other major innovation in the Auckland transport system is HOP (tel. 09/366-6400), a smartcard ticketing system that can be used to pay for public transport and lots of everyday items. The first stage of the HOP system was launched on North Star buses, to be followed by Waka Pacific, Go West, then Metrolink and Link bus services. At time of writing it was hoped that HOP would also be used on rail and ferry services by late 2011. Reusable HOP cards can be purchased from Britomart Transport Centre and cost NZ$10. The card can then be loaded with any value from NZ$10 to NZ$300 and the cost of your fare is deducted each time you make a trip. You can also buy a10-trip pass but these do not allow you to buy everyday items. HOP is being rolled out in phases across Auckland and will eventually be accepted on all New Zealand bus routes. Check the HOP website for progress.

By Taxi

Typical rates start at NZ$5 and go up NZ$2 per kilometer (.62 mile). Cabs can be flagged down, ordered by phone, or picked up at taxi stands. Stands are at all terminals and on the corner of Customs Street West at Queen Street. Call Auckland Taxi Co-Op (tel. 09/300-3000) or Corporate Cabs (tel. 09/377-0773).

By Train

Veolia Transport runs between Auckland, Newmarket, Waitakere, Papakura, and Orakei, stopping at Remuera, Mount Eden, Mount Albert, and many other suburbs along the way. Fares range from NZ$1.80 to NZ$10.50. You can buy 10-trip passes, a Day Rover Pass (NZ$12 for adults, NZ$8 for children ages 5-15), or a Family Pass (NZ$24). Special passes are valid after 9am on weekdays and at all other times.

By Ferry

The Devonport Ferry departs every half-hour daily from Pier 1 beside Queen's Wharf, Quay Street (tel. 09/367-9111). The fare is NZ$11 round-trip for adults and NZ$5.50 for children ages 5 to 15. Fullers and SeaLink ferries serve Waiheke Island; for details, see "A Side Trip to Waiheke Island".

By Car

Driving in downtown Auckland can be problematic, and finding parking is difficult. Given the efficiency of the Explorer Bus, The Link, and the Inner City Service buses, it's a much better idea to explore the town without a car. However, if you insist, there are parking buildings operated by the City Council on Beresford Street just off Karangahape Road; near the waterfront on Albert Street, west of Queen Street; on Victoria Street, slightly east of Queen Street; at Britomart off Customs Street, east of Queen Street; downtown to the east of Queen Street; downtown to the west of Queen Street, with an entrance from Customs Street West; Civic Underground on Mayoral Drive; and Victoria Street East. They're all open 24 hours daily; rates can be expensive. Metered car parking is also available. Expect to pay at least NZ$4 an hour in some areas.

By Bicycle

You need to be a competent and confident cyclist to weave through the inner city traffic but a bicycle is a great way to get around the suburbs. You can rent a bike from Adventure Cycles, 9 Premier Ave., Western Springs (tel. 09/940-2453). It's open Thursday through Monday from 7:30am to 7pm. Rates start at NZ$25 per day and include the mandatory helmet; a tandem rental starts at NZ$40 a day.

Neighborhoods in Brief

City Layout

Greater Auckland is actually a fusion of four cities -- Auckland, Manukau, North Shore, and Waitakere. Each is on a motorway network, which crosses the harbor, rivers, creeks, and bays and carries thousands of commuters into the inner city to work. You can pick up a city map at the visitor center, but the Automobile Association (tel. 0800/500-213 in New Zealand) has a better one.

Main Arteries & Streets -- The main street is Queen Street, which ends in Queen Elizabeth Square at Customs Street.Quay Street runs along the Waitemata Harbour. At the top end of Queen Street is Karangahape Road (usually called "K'Road"), a mere 2km (1 1/4 miles) from Quay Street. Within that area you'll find most of the inner city's shops, restaurants, nightspots, major hotels, and bus, rail, and air terminals. The most popular inner city suburbs with the best restaurants are Parnell and Ponsonby.Newmarket is favored for clothes and shoe shopping.

Neighborhoods in Brief

First, let's get a feel for the four cities. North Shore City is contemporary, casual, and cool, with, I'm told, a hint of California; Central City and East Auckland are much more cosmopolitan, with a growing Asian community in the wealthy eastern areas. To the west, Waitakere City is the principal winegrowing region; it retains strong evidence of early Eastern European settlement from the 1900s. To the south, Manukau City is a melting pot of Polynesian, Maori, and European lifestyles. Now on to the main areas:

Inner City -- It's hard to decide where the inner city begins and ends, but let's say it generally encompasses the central business district. This is where you'll find the major hotels and many attractions, including the boisterous and exciting Viaduct Harbour, home of the former America's Cup Village. It's also where you'll see the clearest evidence of New Zealand's increasingly multicultural society. The High Street/Vulcan Lane area is an "edgy" part of town if you're looking for a good time. Most water-based tours leave from the downtown Quay Street area. This is a great place to base yourself if you don't want to bother with a vehicle; everything is in walking distance.

Ponsonby/Herne Bay -- This is quintessential Auckland -- bold, brazen, bohemian. It's where most of the best restaurants, bars, and cafes are; it's where the nouveau riche and the almost famous hang out; and you'll find some exquisite specialty shops and lots of divine old wooden houses. Some lovely B&Bs are here, and you won't need a car to have fun. Just off Ponsonby Road is Karangahape Road, famous for everything from off-the-wall nightclubs and sassy restaurants to ethnic stores and the whole gamut of sex shops, massage parlors, tattoo and body-piercing studios, and strip joints.

Mount Eden/Epsom -- These leafy, green hillside suburbs reek of old money. You'll find stunning mansions and villas aplenty -- not all peopled by resident blue bloods, though, because the area also has a good number of student apartments. Both Mount Eden and Epsom have trendy little villages, where old shops and restaurants have been tarted up so the resident folk can feel they're living on the edge. There are some lovely B&Bs in the area, and it's a very pretty place to base yourself, close to One Tree Hill, Cornwall Park, and the inner city.

Parnell/Newmarket -- If you want plush, trendy, and sophisticated with an undercurrent of hedonism and excess, this is the suburb for you. Parnell Village is perfectly charming, with lots of super (and expensive) shops and restaurants (with nighttime bar action). It's close to the inner city, the Auckland Museum, and the beautiful Auckland Domain park. There are a few good B&Bs in this area, and in Newmarket, the fashion shopper's Saturday-morning paradise, you'll find heaps of good motels.

Remuera -- Known locally as "Remmers," this is Auckland's most affluent suburb. Stunning mansions, new high-rise apartments, some great upmarket B&Bs, and an easily accessed village full of specialty shops make it a good base. It's also close to the inner city.

Mission Bay/St.Heliers -- Wealthy seaside suburbs with big real estate price tags -- if you have a Porsche or Ferrari, this is where you bring it to show off on a sunny weekend. Not such a good place to stay if you want to be within walking distance of the city, but it makes a delightful half-day outing. The area boasts lots of excellent restaurants and cafes, and it really buzzes on weekends, with people walking, running, and in-line skating along the waterfront.

Devonport/Takapuna -- These two neighborhoods lie over the Harbour Bridge, which can be a nightmarish drive in rush-hour traffic, but if you stay in Devonport you won't need a car at all. Simply lock it up, wander the cute village, and catch a ferry to the inner city when you want a faster pace. There are lots of excellent B&Bs here. Takapuna is the main shopping area of the North Shore, but it doesn't have as much character as Devonport.

The Eastern Suburbs -- Pretty to visit, all very well kept, but too far from inner city action -- if that's what you're after. Pakuranga, Howick, and Panmure do, however, have a quiet beachside charm and are popular with boaties. To the south is Otara, home to Auckland's ever-growing Polynesian community.

Fast Facts

American Express Offices -- are at 105 Queen St. (tel. 09/379-8286) and 67-69 Symonds St. (tel. 09/367-4422). For credit card queries, call tel. 0800/656-660; for traveler's check queries, tel. 0508/555-358. Find them online at www.americanexpress.co.nz.

Area Code -- Auckland's area code (STD) is 09.

Babysitters -- Most major hotels can furnish babysitters.

Currency Exchange -- Go to city center banks and most neighborhood branches for your banking needs. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm. Hotels and restaurants usually convert traveler's checks, but you'll get a much better rate at banks. There is a dedicated currency exchange outlet at Travelex NZ, Brookfields House, Level 14/19, Victoria St. W. (tel. 0800/082-082; www.travelex.co.nz; open normal business hours), and at SKYCITY and at both the Auckland International Airport and the Domestic Airport (open daily during normal business hours).

Dentists -- For emergency and after-hours dental service, call Emergency Dental Service, on the corner of Greenlane East Road and Peach Parade, Remuera (tel. 09/523-3030; www.dentistryforchickens.co.nz). It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to 11pm, Sunday until 10pm.  Doctors For emergency ambulance service, dial tel. 111. For emergency medical services, call the CityMed Medical Centre, on the corner of Mills Lane and Albert Street, inner city (tel. 09/377-5525; www.citymed.co.nz).

Embassies & Consulates -- Embassies are in Wellington. For additional information on embassies in New Zealand, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade in Wellington (tel. 04/494-8500; www.mft.govt.nz; enquiries@mft.govt.nz).  Auckland has consulates of the United States, Level 3, 23 Customs St. E. (tel. 09/303-2724; fax 09/366-0870); Canada, Level 9 48 Emily Place (tel. 09/309-3690); Ireland, Level 7, 23 Customs St. E. (tel. 09/977-2252); and the United Kingdom, IAG House, 151 Queen St. (tel. 09/303-2973).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 111 to call the police, report a fire, or request an ambulance.  Hospitals Area hospitals include Auckland City Hospital, 2 Park Rd., Grafton (tel. 09/367-7000), which incorporates the National Women's Hospital and the Starship Children's Hospital; and Greenlane Clinical Centre, 214 Greenlane West Rd., Epsom (tel. 09/367-0000).

Internet Access -- Give either of these a go: Cyber Max, 291 Queen St. (tel. 09/979-2468); or Net Central Cyber Café, 5 Lorne St. (tel. 09/373-5408).

Laundromat -- There is a 24-hour laundromat at 511 Great North Rd., Grey Lynn (tel. 09/376-6062).

Lost Property -- Call the Central Police Station (tel. 09/379-4240) or any local police station.

Luggage Storage & Lockers -- "Left luggage" facilities are at the Visitor Information Centre in the International Airport. The fee for 24 hours is about NZ$8 for hand luggage, NZ$15 for large items, and NZ$12 per suitcase. For more information, call tel. 09/256-8845.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The New Zealand Herald is the daily paper. The Sunday Star Times andSunday News are Sunday-morning publications.

Police -- For emergencies, dial tel. 111. For other matters, call the Central Police Station (tel. 09/379-4240).

Post Office -- Most post offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. The central city Post Shop is at 23 Customs St. E. (tel. 09/302-1059); it's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday from 9am to noon. For poste restante(held mail) pickup, go to the Post Shop in the Bledisloe Building on Wellesley Street (tel. 09/379-6714). There is also a Post Shop on the ground floor of Courier Post House, 151 Victoria St. W. (tel. 09/367-9617); and others in suburban locations. For post office questions, call tel. 0800/501-501; www.nzpost.co.nz.

Staying Safe -- Personal safety is always a matter of common sense. Police cameras have been installed in several city areas to reduce crime, but it still pays to be vigilant. Much like public parks anywhere, the Auckland Domain is a place to avoid after dark. And it pays to take care at night in Albert Park and the Aotea Square area.

Getting There

By Plane

The Auckland International Airport (tel. 0800/247-767 in NZ; www.aucklandairport.co.nz) is 21km (13 miles) south of the city, behind Manukau Harbour; a motorway makes it a swift 30- to 35-minute car trip into town. More than 25 international airlines serve the airport. The Jean Batten International Terminal opened in 1998 and after a NZ$100-million upgrade, completed in 2008, it now includes a new, environmentally friendly pier to accommodate the Airbus A380, plus it doubled its retail space, making it the largest arrivals duty-free store in the Asia-Pacific region. On arrival you'll be greeted by a large shopping zone, which includes almost 100 retail outlets, and that's before you even hit Customs and Immigration. Auckland is the only airport in the world with two competing duty-free agencies (DFS and Regency), so you'll get great deals on fashion, souvenirs, accessories, and New Zealand art and crafts.

If Auckland Airport is your departure point you can employ the Collection Point (tel. 09/256-8845), which is the pick-up point for duty and tax-free goods purchased throughout New Zealand that have the Auckland Airport duty- and tax-free logo. Here, you can also purchase pharmacy, healthcare, and baby-care items. Temporary Luggage storage (NZ$3 per bag; nothing left overnight) is available as is hairdryer rental (NZ$2) and towel rental with soap (NZ$10 with a NZ$5 refund) for use in the free showers and bathrooms near the chapel on this level. The collection point is open daily from 5:30am to 11pm. If you feel like pampering yourself, massage services are also available within the arrivals shopping zone. Nursery rooms with free cots and change tables are available on both the ground and first floor, and there is a children's playground on the first floor. There are numerous food outlets in both terminals.

The currency-exchange companyTravelex (tel. 09/256-6457; www.travelex.xo.nz) has 10 stores located in the international and domestic terminals, which are open daily for all arriving and departing flights. ATMs are located throughout both the international and domestic terminals. They accept Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diner's Club, and all Plus cards.

From the shopping zone, you progress to the 44 Customs and Immigration counters.

Auckland i-SITE Visitor Centre (tel. 0800/282-552 in New Zealand or 09/367-6009; www.aucklandnz.com), is located in the arrivals hall on the ground floor and is open daily from 7am to 9pm. A luggage wrapping service (for your departure) is available in the ground floor check-in area at Seal 'n' Secure (tel. 09/256-8769), open Monday to Friday, 5am to 7pm and weekends, 5am to 9pm. For luggage storage, ask at the information center. Rental-car companies and currency exchange are also on the ground floor. Internet kiosks are located throughout the public and passenger-only areas in both terminals. A NZ$2 coin buys you 10 minutes online; credit cards are also accepted. Wireless hotspots in both terminals offer 1- or 4-hour time allocations; pay by Visa or MasterCard.

The Domestic Terminal is a 15-minute walk from the International Terminal. Simply follow the blue-and-white lines painted on the pavement. Alternatively, catch the free inter-terminal bus, which departs every 15 minutes between 5am and 10:30pm. It has been significantly improved after a NZ$42-million makeover, which enlarged retail and check-in areas and expanded security screening points. Another i-SITE Visitor Centre is in the arrivals hall of the Domestic Terminal (tel. 09/367-6009). It's open daily 7am to 5pm. The Airbus (tel. 0800/103-080 in NZ; www.airbus.co.nz) is the best value for transport between the airport and the city. Their bright blue bus runs 24 hours a day (every 15 min. from 6am-7:15pm, every 30 min. from 7:15pm-6am) from the airport to the city, calling at most major hotels and backpacker stops in the city. They run from the city to the airport (check the website for pickup points) every 15 minutes from 7am to 8pm and every 30 minutes from 8pm to 7am. The fare is NZ$16 one-way, NZ$25 round-trip for adults and NZ$6 one-way, and NZ$12 round-trip for children 5 to 15 years old. You buy tickets from the driver. If you're staying in a city hotel on the direct route, the driver will drop you off.

Taxis wait outside the arrivals area (door 8) at the international terminal and outside the luggage collection area (door 4) at the domestic terminal; the fare between the airport and city center is NZ$60 to NZ$80 on weekdays, more on weekends and at night. Auckland Co-op Taxi (tel. 09/300-3000) and Corporate Cabs (tel. 09/377-0773) are reliable choices but all of the companies licensed to service the airport offer a high standard of service.

Numerous shuttle companies will take you from the airport to your inner city lodging for around NZ$30 to NZ$40. Super Shuttle (tel. 0800/748-885 in New Zealand or 09/522-5100; www.supershuttle.co.nz) and Auckland Airport Shuttle (tel. 09/576-8904) both offer reliable service.

By Train & Coach (Bus)

The Britomart Transport Centre (tel. 09/366-6400; www.maxx.co.nz or www.veoliatransport.co.nz for local rail) has significantly streamlined all transport services. Located at the bottom of Queen Street near the waterfront, in the central business district, the transport exchange is close to ferry terminals and Central City bus stops. It features an underground rail transport center and it is the hub where intercity and commuter rail, buses, taxis, light rail, and ferry services all connect. Britomart has five train platforms, and trains depart from the same platform each day. It's open Monday to Thursday from 5am to 11pm, Friday from 5am to 1am, Saturday from 6:30am to 12:30am, and Sunday from 6:30am to 11pm.

In anticipation of the 2010 Rugby World Cup, Auckland significantly streamlined its bus and rail services. By the time you read this, most of these upgrades should be in place, but check the Maxx website for the most up-to-the-minute status information; Britomart station information centers, including a Maxx Information Kiosk inside the Centre, also provide current information. The Maxx Kiosk is open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 6:30pm, and from 8am to 3:30pm on weekends; it's closed Good Friday and Christmas Day. Most airport shuttles include Britomart in their circuits, and inner city bus services like The Link also travel via Britomart.

The Britomart Transport Centre is open daily. It has storage lockers; electronic visual displays of departure and arrival times; camera security; a cafe, sushi bar, florist, and convenience store; tour operators; toilets; currency exchange; and ATMs.

For information on the Tranz Scenic trains that serve Auckland, contact TranzRail (tel. 0800/802-802 in New Zealand or 09/366-6400). InterCity Coachlines (tel. 09/623-1503) and Newmans (tel. 09/623-1504; www.newmanscoach.co.nz) buses arrive and depart from the SKYCITY Travel Centre Coach Terminal, 102 Hobson St. (tel. 09/913-6100).

By Car

If you're driving, you will enter Auckland on State Highway 1 from the south, on the major motorway system. I advise you to call ahead to your hotel and ask which motorway exit to take. Traffic congestion is an issue in Auckland, especially during morning and evening rush hours. If you don't have to drive in the city, avoid it. Parking is also increasingly expensive.

When to Go

Auckland's climate is temperate though changeable because of its coastal position. The summer months between December and March are warm and humid, averaging 24°C (75°F), while it is cool but not freezing in winter, averaging 16°C (61°F).

Special Events

The annual Auckland Anniversary Day Regatta (tel. 0800/734-2882; www.regatta.org.nz) attracts local and international entrants on the last Monday in January. Held in Windsor Reserve in late February, the Devonport Food & Wine Festival (tel. 09/446-0688 or 445-3011; www.devonportwinefestival.co.nz) offers nonstop entertainment, samples from 20 wineries, and food galore. Jazz, classical music, and opera play a part. The biennial Auckland Festival (tel. 09/309-0101; www.aucklandfestival.co.nz), a premier arts-and-cultural event held in the last week of September in odd-numbered years (2013, 2015, etc.), celebrates Auckland's distinct characteristics -- especially its Pacific style. New Zealand Fashion Week, held in October, presents over 60 New Zealand designers to the world. International buyers and media arrive to check out fashion that is rapidly becoming a "must-see" on the global fashion map; visit www.nzfashionweek.com for details. The fun Round the Bays Run (tel. 09/300-6200; www.roundthebays.co.nz), held in late March, attracts runners from around the South Pacific who participate in the 8km (5-mile) run around the central bays. It ends with a barbecue in one of the city's parks. The Royal Easter Show (tel. 09/638-9969; www.royaleastershow.co.nz), held at the Epsom Showgrounds, focuses on excellence in agriculture and animal husbandry, with fresh produce stalls and the biggest carnival in New Zealand.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

For information on ramps, toilets, parking lots, telephones, and an equipment showroom, contact the Disability Resource Centre, 14 Erson Ave., Royal Oak (tel. 09/625-8069; www.disabilityresource.org.nz). Both The Link and City Circuit bus routes have wheelchair-accessible buses.