Europe / France / Burgundy / Avallon / Best Restaurants

Le Cordois Autrement

★★ MODERN BURGUNDIAN—Snuggled alongside Avallon’s 12th-century church, this lovely bistro has been in the same family since 1910–not that you can tell from the décor, which is resolutely modern, in slick tones of blue and yellow. The menu mixes traditional dishes with a few international ingredients—think pea risotto with mirin-infused butter, and fish of the day with saté and lime. Some classics can’t be meddled with, and that’s the case for the veal kidneys, served with carrot mousseline (puree) and cherry sauce. For dessert, the star of the show is the gooey chocolate cake.