Set a block back from the bustling place de l’Horloge, this upscale bistro has been a local favorite since it opened its doors in 1982. Philippe Hilly, the sixth generation in his family’s long line of chefs, dishes up a cuisine that’s sophisticated yet hearty on a short no-nonsense menu: Think saffron-infused salt cod brandied and served with crusty bread, or ravioli of Provençal brousse cheese atop a saffron-spinach bed. Walls are adorned with an eclectic collection of antique cutlery (la fourchette translates as “the fork”), making the ambience as alluring as the food. Just don’t drop by at the weekend: The restaurant is closed Saturday and Sunday.