Planning a trip to Bali

Health & Insurance

Taking simple precautions such as getting vaccinated, using mosquito nets and insect repellents, and watching what you eat and drink can greatly reduce the risk of exposure to a number of diseases that thrive in the tropical climate.

Consult your doctor before leaving. Besides the routine vaccinations recommended in your own country, you may need to get the following vaccinations at least 4 to 6 weeks before your trip to allow time for your vaccines to take effect: hepatitis A and B, typhoid, and tetanus-diphtheria.

Swine Flu

Several cases of swine flu have been reported in Bali. The Balinese Health Department, proficient in dealing with matters of epidemics, is currently working with the Denpasar Airport Health Office. Any planes that now arrive in Bali from countries confirmed to be infected with the H1N1 virus will be sequestered briefly at a remote aircraft parking area where the plane and its passengers will be sprayed with disinfectant. Passengers will then disembark and be subjected to thermal scanners to determine if any have an elevated body temperature which, if discovered, would earn a more thorough medical examination by the airport's H1N1 containment team. Although this sounds like a lengthy procedure, it is all undertaken very quickly and without much delay.

Bug Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns

Dengue fever is a viral infection that typically causes flulike symptoms, including fever, muscle aches, joint pains, headaches, nausea, and vomiting, often followed by a rash, is transmitted by Aedes mosquitoes, which bite during the daytime, especially in the morning and late afternoon.

Malaria is another common disease transmitted by Anopheles mosquitoes, which are most active after sundown. Malaria is common in Lombok and eastern part of Indonesia, but not in Bali. You are recommended to take malaria prophylaxis. Purchase your antimalarial drugs before travel as some of the recommended antimalarial drugs are not always available over the counter. Discuss with your doctor at least 3 to 4 weeks before traveling as some of the malaria prophylaxis need to be taken 2 weeks before entering the malaria area.

A few cases of rabies have recently occurred in Bali and the local government has been actively vaccinating dogs to help control the disease. Although there is no official recommendation by the government for humans to get the rabies vaccine, it may be worthwhile for those spending a lot of time in rural areas, working in veterinarian positions, or anyone who may come into contact with bats and monkeys. If you do get bitten or scratched by a monkey or bat during your travel, you must go directly to the hospital and take vaccination procedures against rabies.

Dietary Red Flags

You can't drink the water from the taps on Bali and Lombok, but bottled water is cheap and readily available. Just about every hotel will supply you with a couple bottles or a jug of boiled water -- to be extra cautious, use it to brush your teeth as well. The ice in Bali is generally okay to use as the production is government controlled. Stay clear of ice in nontourist areas where it could be locally produced.

One of the most common illnesses that affects travelers is diarrhea, which usually occurs with a sudden change in diet. Infectious agents are the primary cause and people traveling from developed countries to developing countries experience rapid and dramatic change in the type of organisms in their gastrointestinal tract. To prevent traveler's diarrhea, avoid foods or beverages from street vendors and small warungs that look questionable (the presence of other tourists and locals eating is always a good sign), avoid raw or undercooked meats and seafood. Keep yourself hydrated. Any electrolytes solution or tablets will help hydrate you and assist with maintaining the right balance of minerals in your body. For more serious cases, antibiotics can be prescribed at any pharmacy.

Some travelers will also be diagnosed with a stomach bug that we like to call Bali Belly, more akin to an acute case of gastroenteritis, which can be caused by a bacterial or parasitic infection. It is usually passed on by the fecal-oral route. Symptoms include abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The illness can last a few days or a few weeks and can leave the victim bedridden and too ill to move. Consult a doctor immediately.

Sun Exposure

The equatorial sun can burn your skin faster than you think even on cloudy days. In July, the climate feels cooler due to the cool breezes but this is the time when most are unaware of the dangers of the sun. Limit exposure or liberally apply a high factor sunscreen. The sun is at its strongest between 11am and 2pm. Always keep hydrated. Popcari Sweat and other similar rehydrating drinks are sold everywhere but water remains the number-one priority.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

We list hospital and emergency numbers in the "Fast Facts" sections throughout this book. Plenty of English-speaking doctors are available on Bali; the better qualified doctors can be found in the more touristy areas of Bali and Lombok. If you do need a doctor, ask your hotel or villa concierge first, as they likely have one on call.

Apoteks, Indonesian pharmacies, can be found on most busy streets in Bali and Lombok. They stock some Western brands but mostly local medicine. Kimia Farma is a Japanese pharmacy chain that stocks well-known medicinal brands and toiletries. They also have a doctor on-site who can prescribe antibiotics for less serious illnesses.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before departure. Pack prescription medications in the original containers with pharmacy labels in carry-on luggage, otherwise they may not make it through airport security. Carry a copy of your prescription form and any other paperwork detailing what the drugs are for and who they have been prescribed to.

Insurance

We highly recommend that you have an insurance policy in place before arriving in Bali and Lombok. Make sure that it covers medical expenses. While the hospitals in Bali (less so in Lombok) are good, there are some services that they cannot supply and in these cases you may be evacuated to Singapore for further medical attention. Some policies do not cover "dangerous activities," which can include surfing, scuba diving, bungy jumping, horseback riding, and some watersports. For further information visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Purchasing & Using Travel Insurance in Bali & Lombok -- A visitor should be aware that along with the "normal" range of issues that need consideration with regards to health and precautions in the tropics, attention should be paid to ensuring a viable exit strategy in the event of serious illness or accident. As Indonesia is still developing, the standards of medical care are not as sophisticated as those in neighboring developed countries such as Singapore and Thailand. Frequently the issues that one faces require swift decisions and immediate action. In order to ensure one's personal safety in all situations it is essential to hold a good travel Insurance policy.

When purchasing a policy, gather clear information on how to initiate an evacuation, should it prove necessary. Insurance companies are obliged to meet requirements in order to authorize an evacuation and this can be a time-consuming process when medical reports are required to verify the nature of the problem. Discuss this with the potential provider and be sure you understand their requirements. Take a worst-case-scenario approach. "What if" you are incapable of contacting the company yourself? How would someone else do this on your behalf?

Over time we have developed an approach that we suggest you follow.

1. Have several copies of any membership card or policy you hold in different parts of your luggage.

2. Always carry a copy in your wallet or bag. If you are unconscious or incapable of response, hospital staff will seek something to confirm you have medical coverage. Make it easy for them or anyone else who finds it to contact your insurer.

3. Carry a copy of the claim form with you, all companies require these to be filled out and you don't want to be caught without one.

4. It is important to have a copy of contact phone numbers of family and friends who will help you if need be; keep this in the same place as the insurance information.

5. Make a photocopy of your passport and other essential documents and keep them in a separate place from your originals, or even better keep a password-protected thumb drive with scanned copies of your essential documents with you.

-- Richard Flax
Head Bali Emergency Response Team

Safety

While Bali is one of the safest places to travel in Asia, there is no denying that traffic plays the most serious threat to a visitor's life. Pavements are constantly abused by cars and motorbikes who see them as quick routes when traffic is at a standstill; at night beware the many gaps in the pavements that have been known to catch the compos and non compos mentis alike. Drivers think nothing of driving at high speeds through villages and towns, overtaking on bends, braking hard or swerving to avoid chickens, dogs, and potholes. If you feel uncomfortable, ask your driver to slow down, and then ask again. Many drivers think that all visitors to the island like them to drive fast and will therefore show their appreciation for this at the end of the day. Your safety is more important.

With regards to riding a motorcycle, always wear a helmet and be vigilant at all times especially at night when dogs prowl the streets, kids cycle their bikes without headlights, and locals walk and gather in nonlit areas. Most riders on the island learn to ride a motorbike at an early age -- you'll see some as young as 9 or 10 ferrying their younger brethren -- and they do not have to sit for any road test examinations.

The basic rule you need to keep in mind is that as a foreigner the accident is always your fault. The thinking being that if you had not been here, the accident would not have happened. Take our advice and book a driver.

If you are staying rurally, the local banjar will take pride in the low crime rate and very often will take matters into their own hands should they find any impropriety among their own. Only after they have had their time with the perpetrator, will they call the police.

While much of Indonesia still relies on graft or back handers for the smooth conduct of business, crime itself remains low and especially so in the tourist world. However do take the usual safety precautions you would anywhere. Violent crime is rare, pickpockets are not. Exercise considerable caution by using a money belt, particularly in crowded tourist areas, and being careful not to flash large wads of cash. Most hotels or villas will provide you with a safety box; use them. If nothing else, make sure your suitcase has a good lock on it.

Given the world we live in, and not withstanding the lack of crime, there is still much emphasis on security and you will encounter standard -- if sometimes only rudimentary -- security checks at most hotels and restaurants. Don't be alarmed, they search everyone and will usually also wish to have a peak in the boot or under the bonnet of your car. Take the slight intrusion in your stride. It is for everyone's benefit.

If you have an issue, contact your consulate.

Alternative Health & Wellness A to Z

Bali was recently voted the "Asian Spa Capital of the Year" by Asia Spa. Bali hosts numerous alternative therapies for wellness and spiritual enlightenment. Here are some of the best people and most unique offerings on the island.

Astrology -- Salena Bulan (tel. 08/1338106349; salenabulan@gmail.com), in Ubud, has been passionately studying astrology for over 17 years. With an emphasis on Jungian psychological and reincarnation evolutionary astrology, her approach is more psycho-spiritual than predictive.

Ayurveda -- Uma Inder (tel. 08/1236206136; uma_inder@hotmail.com), in Ubud, is an Ayurvedic Practitioner and Panchakarma Specialist in women's health. Uma offers consultation, treatments, and self-care educational programs. She is also an ayurvedic doula with experience in fertility awareness, conscious conception, lactation support, and pre/post natal wellness programs.

Balian -- A Balian is a traditional Balinese healer. Two favorites are: Cokorda Rai (tel. 08/1805477388), in Ubud, who reads auras and energy; Pak Sirkas (tel. 361/742-1169), in Canggu. Pak Ketut Arsana is the founder of Ashram Munivara, dedicated to the teachings of Shiva. Contact him through Ubud Bodyworks Healing Centre, Jl. Hanoman 25, Ubud (tel. 0361/975720; www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com). The most famous Balians at the moment are Wayan and Ketut Liyer from the book Eat, Pray, Love. You can visit them but with so many Western tourists calling on them, they have somehow lost their charm. Wayan is based in her shop Traditional Balinese Healing in Ubud on Jalan Jembawan; Ketut still practices from his house in Pengosekan. Ask any hotel or villa for directions as the street does not have a name.

Herbs & Medicinal Plants -- Lilir and Westi (tel. 08/123816020), in Ubud, are a Balinese couple whose families go back nine generations as medicinal plant healers. Both do early morning herb walks through the rice fields, drinking tea and teaching about the medicinal plants found along the way.

Holistic & Intuitive Healing -- Frederique Nault (tel. 08/123920615; healing@indosat.net.id), in Kuta, is a qualified naturopath whose innovative treatments are drawn from a comprehensive range of powerful healing methods, such as craniosacral therapy and energy psychology, personally tailored to suit the individual's needs. Dr. Susan Spillman (tel. 08/1337812502; www.baliartsandtours.com), in Ubud, starts sessions with an in-depth discussion of your concerns and then employs energy work and/or Quantum-Touch -- primarily used for pain relief or reduction.

Meditation -- Frank Wilson (Brahma Kumaris World Spiritual University, the Meditation Shop; tel. 08/1805398000; www.themeditationshop.org) offers rajah yoga meditation for relaxing, refreshing, and clearing the mind and heart. Pak Kadek Suambara (tel. 08/5237131444) in Ubud offers meditation and laughter yoga. The Bali Usada Meditation Foundation can be reached at tel. 0361/289209 (Ngurah Rai 328, Bypass Sanur, Denpasar).

Natural & Raw Food Counseling -- Mark Ament (tel. 08/1916743272; mark@healingvibes.com), in Ubud, is a specialist in healing through living foods and internal cleansing and offers powerful techniques to lose weight and overcome severe allergies and chronic depression.

Oils -- Gabrielle Souczek (tel. 08/180564426), in Ubud, performs Raindrop Technique essential oil massages designed to push toxins out of your tissue, oxygenate your cells, repair DNA, eliminate viruses, bacteria, and inflammation, release emotional issues, and leave you feeling vibrant.

Sound Healing -- Swami Bodhi Arun (tel. 08/5935174112), in Ubud, accompanies meditation with the vibration and sound of crystal quartz bells.

Tarot Readings -- Jan Merril (tel. 08/17356013; janmerrills@gmail.com), in Ubud, is a gifted tarot reader, who will bring insights into your current and future life. Or learn to read the cards yourself in an intimate full-day course.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The Balinese are Hindu, unlike the rest of Indonesia, which is predominately Muslim. In Bali you will find a relatively rich gay scene although not one that is openly flaunted. While homosexuality is accepted, any public display of romance, whether straight or gay, is frowned upon. The Indonesian legal age of consent for straight and gay sex is 16.

Bali is now a gay-friendly place, and it is unlikely that gays will encounter any problems while on holiday, especially in the touristy areas of the south. The best place to base yourself is in Seminyak, with its open gay scene and plenty of gay-owned and gay-friendly accommodations, bars, and nightclubs. There is also a fabulous gay cruising area north of Petitenget beach.

For up-to-date information on the best places to stay and Bali's gay scene check out the following websites: www.bali-rainbows.com; www.utopia-asia.com; www.rainbowtourism.com; www.balifriendlyhotels.com; and www.baligayguide.com.

Lombok, a Muslim island, frowns upon homosexuality and you will find it difficult to find suitable accommodations and accepting people. The only exception is the Gili Islands, where there is a slightly more laid-back attitude.

Staying Connected

Bali generally has good network coverage. In the mountains you may find patches where there is limited network coverage but you are never far from a phone line that works. The cheapest way to make any international calls is through Skype (www.skype.com) or any voice-over Internet protocol services.

In Lombok, phones are available in the cities and all tourist areas and all mobile phones work in these areas, too. In some of the more remote areas, particularly close to mountains, signals can fail.

Telephone Dialing at a Glance

To place a call from your home country to Bali: Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus Indonesia's country code (62), the city or local area code (361 for Kuta/Seminyak, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur, and Ubud; 362 for Lovina; 363 for Candidasa; 370 for Lombok and the Gilis), and the six-digit phone number (for example, 011 62 362 000000). Mobile phone numbers do not have a city or local area code, and begin with an 8 followed by a long string of numbers. Dial Indonesia's country code (62) followed by the number.

To place a call within Indonesia: You must use the area code if calling between states. For calls within the country, area codes are all preceded by a 0 (for instance, 0361 for Kuta/Seminyak, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur, and Ubud, 0363 for Candidasa, 0370 for Lombok, and so on). Dial the city or area code preceded by a 0, and then the local number (for example, 0362/000000). For mobile phones, add a 0 to the number.

To make a landline call to a local landline phone, do not include the local code (that is, dial 1234567 not 0361/1234567).

To place a direct international call from Indonesia: Dial the international access code (00), plus the country code, the area or city code, and the number (for example, to call the U.S., you'd dial 00 1 000/000-0000). International country codes are: Australia, 61; Canada, 1; New Zealand, 64; U.K., 44; U.S., 1.

To reach the international operator: Dial 102.

Cellphones

Nowadays, most mobile phones have the technology to work overseas. While this is a benefit, the cost of using your home mobile phone is prohibitively expensive. Instead, buy a local SIM card from one of the thousand wartels (phone shops) that surround the islands and use it in your phone. Bali and Lombok offer a variety of networks, each of which has different benefits. Try to establish from the seller which is the best for your needs and what promotions are available for each network. Expect to pay around Rp50,000 for your SIM card alone. You will then need to buy some credit -- start off with Rp1,000,000.

Internet Access

Wi-Fi access is increasingly common in Bali. More and more hotels, restaurants, and cafes offer Wi-Fi -- especially in the south. Not all offer it for free, some still charge and you are also encouraged to buy a drink or something to eat.

Inland, in the central mountains, network coverage is limited and what Internet service is available is so painfully slow that it's not worth the effort. Wartels, supermarkets, and restaurants up and down the coast offer Internet access. You can pay anything between Rp10,000 and Rp30,000 an hour for the service.

For Lombok, Internet access and Internet cafes are available in cities and all tourist areas. In the villages and remote locations, there is usually no Internet and often no computers.

Fast Facts

Banks -- Major currencies can be exchanged at most banks, money changers, and hotels. There is often a different rate for any notes smaller than US$100 and this applies to most currencies. Banking hours are Monday to Friday, 8am to 3pm. Banks in hotels usually stay open longer while money changers are generally open until early evening.

Business Hours -- Most places keep daily "daylight hours," which on the equator pretty much means 6am to 6pm (or a little later).

Drug Laws -- Though you might be offered marijuana at every turn, Indonesia officially takes drug offenses very seriously. American and Australian forces have teamed up with Indonesian police to fight drugs, along with terrorism, and penalties for mere possession include long jail sentences and large fines.

Electricity -- Currents can be either 110 volts (50 AC) or 220 to 240 volts (50 AC).

Embassies & Consulates -- Australia: Jl. Tantular 32, Renon, Denpasar (tel. 0361/241118; Mon-Fri 8am-noon and 12:30-4pm). The Australian consulate also assists nationals of Canada and New Zealand. United Kingdom: Tirtra Nadi 20, Sanur (tel. 0361/270601; Mon-Thurs 8:30am-12:30pm, Fri 11:30am-6:30pm). United States: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 310, Denpasar (tel. 0361/233605; Mon-Fri 8am-4:30pm).

Emergencies -- Bali has a new emergency response center that coordinates all governmental bureaus and services: dial tel. 112. Otherwise, you can call the national numbers: tel. 110 for the police, tel. 118 for an ambulance, tel. 113 in case of fire, and tel. 111/115-151 for search and rescue. The Red Cross can be reached at tel. 26465. (You must dial the local area code if you are using a mobile phone.) The Indonesian Red Cross is at Jalan Imam Bonjol, Km 3, Denpasar (tel. 0361/480282), on Bali, and Jalan Bung Karno 29, Mataram (tel. 0370/623885), on Lombok.

Hospitals -- If you need a doctor or dentist, ask your hotel for a referral -- many have one on call.

Liquor Laws -- You won't find liquor in halal restaurants catering to Muslims, but there are no restrictions elsewhere. The legal drinking age is 21, but the police rarely enforce this law.

Mail -- Your hotel can send mail for you, or you can go to the post office in Denpasar, at Jalan Raya Puputan Renon (tel. 0361/223566). Other branches are in Kuta, Jalan Raya Kuta (tel. 0361/754012), Ubud, and Sanur. For big items, packing and shipping services are in all major tourist areas, but the cost can be exorbitant. The Lombok main post office is at Jalan Sriwijaya, Mataram (tel. 0370/632645).

Police -- Dial tel. 110 for the police.

Ramadan During Ramadan you can still get food throughout the day on Lombok and the Gili Islands and most businesses run as usual but service is slower than normal as there is less staff. After Ramadan, the festival of Eid-ul-Fitr (a Muslim holiday celebrating the end of Ramadan) begins with a 3-day celebration. Ramadan: August 11 to September 10, 2010; August 1 to August 30, 2011. Bali sees little change during Ramadan.

Taxes -- Some hotels and restaurants factor government taxes (10% tax and 11% service) into their quoted prices, but most of them will put it as an additional charge.

Telephones -- The international country code for Indonesia is 62. Because many hotels charge a great deal even for using your calling card, you're better off using the wartel network of privately owned pay phones. There's one in every tourist center, though some work better than others. Some also have Internet access.

Time Zone -- Bali and Lombok are 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, except during daylight saving time, which it does not observe. That's 13 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the U.S.

Tipping -- Tips are always welcome but not expected. Generally larger more upmarket restaurants and hotels will add between 15% and 21% to the bill to cover 10% government tax and allow something for service. As most waiters, masseurs, guides, or taxi drivers earn under Rp100,000 a day and work long hours, an appreciative tip for their hard work is always a nice thing to do. When staying at a villa, if no service has been added, allow between 5% and 10% of the total bill to be split between the staff. Make sure they are all aware, even the gardeners, as some villa managers will pocket the full amount themselves. For longer stays, a discretionary amount is acceptable. Round up taxi bills to the nearest thousand.

Toilets -- Western-style toilets with seats are becoming more common than the Asian squat variety, though cheap losmen (homestays) and some less touristy public places still have the latter. Always carry toilet paper with you, or you might have to use your hand (the left one only, please) and the dip bucket.

Visitor Information -- Before you go, browse the Bali Tourism Board website at www.balitourismboard.org.

The Indonesian Embassy in the in Australia is at 8 Darwin Ave., Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 612/62508600; www.kbri-canberra.org.au); in New Zealand at 70 Glen Rd., Kelburn, Wellington, New Zealand (tel. 475/8697-9899; www.indonesianembassy.org.nz); in the U.K. at 38 Grosvenor Sq., London W1K 2HW (tel. 020/7499-7661; www.indonesianembassy.org.uk); in the U.S. at 2020 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington D.C. 20036 (tel. 202/775-5200; www.embassyofindonesia.org).

You can get other Bali travel information at the Bali Government Tourism Office, Jl. S. Parman, Renon (tel. 0361/222387; Mon-Thurs 7am-2pm, Fri 7 -- 11am, Sat 7am-12:30pm), and at the Department of Tourism, Post, and Telecommunications, Jl. Raya Puputan, Niti Mandala (tel. 0361/225649; Mon-Thurs 7am-3pm, Fri till noon).

Tourist offices on Lombok can be found at: In Mataram at Jl. Suprato 20 (tel. 0370/621658; Mon-Thurs 7:30am-2pm, Fri till 11am, Sat 8am-1pm); and Jl. Singosari 2 (tel. 0370/634800; Mon-Thurs 8am-2pm, Fri till 11am, Sat till 12:30pm); and in Senggigi (tel. 0370/632733).

Water -- Avoid tap water in Bali and Lombok unless properly boiled. Bottled water is available everywhere, and restaurants in tourist areas seem to use it as a matter of course, but you should always ask to be sure.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Visas

Procedures in Bali, Lombok, and Indonesia can change without given notice. For up-to-date information, contact the nearest Indonesian embassy or consulate in your country. For a list, go to www.indonesia.go.id.

Visitors from the Australia, Canada, New Zealand, United Kingdom, United States, and most of Europe can get Visas on Arrival (VOA) through Ngurah Rai International Airport or the seaports of Padangbai and Benoa in Bali and Selaparang Airport in Lombok. For stays of 7 days or less, the charge is US$10; for stays of up to 30 days, the charge is US$25 payable by credit card and most major currencies. For stays of longer than 30 days, a tourist or business visa must be arranged before arrival.

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the date of your arrival; your passport must also have at least two blank pages.

Overstays are charged US$20 per day for up to 60 days. Overstay violations are liable to 5 years imprisonment or a fine of Rp25 million.

Any person holding a passport from the following countries is eligible for a free visa. Those holding valid passports will be granted a 30-day visa short-visit permit on arrival at any Indonesian international gateway without charge: Brunei Darussalam,? Chile, ?Hong Kong SAR,? Macau SAR, Malaysia, Morocco,? Peru, Philippines, Thailand, Vietnam, and Singapore. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the date of arrival and you need to be in possession of an onward or return ticket.

Registration in Bali or Lombok

On arrival at your hotel or villa on either island, you must register yourself and your family with the police. This will be automatically done if you stay in a hotel but those staying in private houses or villas should hand over their passports to the villa staff who will do this for you. You will also be asked to pay Rp50,000 per person (you do not have to pay this in a hotel). Failure to register can lead to a hefty fine.

If you decide to move locations during your stay, you must bring your passport with you to register in each accommodation. The hotel may not be willing to allow you to stay otherwise.

Customs Regulations

Customs allows you to bring in, duty free, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 100 grams of tobacco; cameras and film; 1 liter of alcohol; and perfume clearly intended for personal use. Forbidden are guns, weapons, narcotics, pornography (leave it at home if you're unsure how it's defined), televisions, fresh fruit, Chinese medicine, and printed matter with Chinese characters. Plants might also be confiscated.

On arrival at the airport all bags are screened for alcohol. Anyone caught carrying alcohol over their duty free allowance will find it either confiscated or will have to pay a high duty penalty. Rates are not fixed and can be negotiated!

What You Can Take Home -- The export of tortoise shell, crocodile skin, and ivory is prohibited. For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17 -- 21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Medical Requirements

There are no inoculation or vaccination requirements for visitors to Bali and Lombok. Visitors arriving from parts of Africa, however, may be screened for yellow fever.

It is wise to get vaccinated for typhoid and hepatitis A and B. All travelers should also be up to date on their tetanus immunizations.

Getting Around

Bali is made up of three main roads that circumnavigate the island and hundreds of smaller roads that traverse the countryside. It takes approximately 3 hours to travel the length and breadth of Bali. Road conditions on the main roads are generally good but can be heavily populated with slow traveling trucks. The conditions of the minor roads are generally determined by the weather. During the rainy season, road conditions fall foul of torrential rain and heavy traffic leaves the roads covered in potholes and debris.

Although there is a good public transport system here, journeys tend to be very long and don't take in smaller destinations.

A Note on Addresses -- The spelling and naming of most Indonesian geographical features, villages, towns, and even streets varies considerably as there is no standardized form that meets both popular and official approval. Names can be spelled many different ways, even on signboards in front of various government offices. There are three overlapping and concurrent address systems for any given location: old street name and number, new street name with new numbers, and kampung (neighborhood) name with block numbers. For instance Jalan Diponegoro (an Indonesian hero) is often referred to by its other names Jalan Gusti Ngurah Rai (from local history) or Jalan Raya Sesetan Gang II (the kampung name and alley number). To top it off, numbers do not always follow and you are just as likely to find 22 next to 133.

By Private Car & Driver

The best way of seeing the sights of Bali is by hiring a car and a driver. It gives you the freedom to explore the backwater of this picturesque country. Plenty of car-hire agencies on Bali offer day services or weekly rentals; your hotel or villa may have its own cars and drivers available for you as well. Having a driver takes away the stress of having to navigate the small roads around the island; they can also help with any translations as once you leave the main areas very few people speak any English.

Drivers on overnight stays will find their own suitable accommodation at very little cost to you. You will be expected to pay the driver's food and accommodation but the cost of the vehicle, insurance, and petrol should be included in the price. Expect to pay about Rp350,000 to Rp450,000 a day, open to negotiation.

Before hiring a car and driver make sure that they have all the relevant paperwork and insurance in place and agree on all costs ahead of the rental period. Also make sure that they have a good command of English and are knowledgeable about the island.

The Best Way to Avoid a Traffic Accident -- Any foreigners involved in even minor traffic violations or accidents may be vulnerable to exploitation. You should therefore think seriously about employing a private driver or hiring a car with a driver.

By Rental Car

To rent a car you are supposed to have an International Driving License or a locally issued tourist driving license together with a copy of your passport. However, most rental businesses will rent you a car with a copy of your home national driver's license.

One-month licenses are issued on the spot for Rp150,000 at the Foreign License Service, Jl. Gunung Sanghiang, Denpasar (tel. 0361/422323). You will also need to show a copy of your passport and your home national driver's license.

Before you drive away in your car, ensure that the car has all its registration documentation (Surat Tanda Nomor Kendaraan Bermotor or STNK, vehicle registration certificate) and copies of any insurance policies.

You must be vigilant at all times when driving in Bali. The Balinese rarely stop to check for on-coming traffic, which can often cause the driver to slam on their breaks or swerve to avoid a collision. At night, many motorcycles and cyclists rarely have lights on and street lighting is limited. Traffic lights are not always observed. Accidents are common. Vehicles are left-hand drive. The national speed limit is 70kph but you won't find many areas to do this.

Expect to pay between US$18 to US$45 a day for vehicle hire, though the bigger agencies will charge a lot more. Prices will either be in rupiah or U.S. dollars. The cheapest form of transport is a Suzuki jeep which should cost about US$18 a day; a Toyota Kijang should cost about US$22 a day; a top of the range limousine-style Suzuki costs US$45. These prices should include some insurance but always check what insurance you are getting before agreeing to a price.

International chains on the island include: Avis, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur (tel. 1800/656545 or 0361/282635; www.avis.com), and Hertz, Ngurah Rai airport (tel. 0361/768375; www.hertz.com). Local companies include: Baliwww Car Rental (tel. 0361/731520; www.baliwww.com/car_rental) in Denpasar; Bali Car Hire (tel. 08/11380699 or 0361/418381; www.balicarhire.com), also in Denpasar, a reliable company with a good variety of cars available; and CV Amertha Dana, Legian (tel. 0361/753518; www.amerthadana.com), which does not have new cars but their rates are good and service very attentive, and they rent motorcycles.

Warning: Driving Infringements -- Always ensure that you have the car documentation with you as well as your international driver's license. The police carry out regular spot checks and you'll be fined for any infringements. Not wearing a seatbelt while driving or as a passenger or not wearing a helmet on a motorcycle is also an infringement. Stay calm during all dealings with the police, do not argue with them, and do not offer them a bribe. They are less interested in whether you have committed a traffic violation and more in what you have in your wallet. A standard fine should be Rp50,000 but police will try to get as much money as they can from you. Do not flash a full wallet of cash, as you might not see it again.

By Motorcycle

The easiest, cheapest, and fastest way to get around Bali is by motorcycle. However it is also the most dangerous with daily accidents and weekly motorcycle deaths.

Plenty of companies on the streets will hire you a motorcycle if you have a driving license. It should cost you about Rp50,000 a day for a basic 110-125CC scooter, less if you are hiring long term. Surfer racks should be available at no extra cost.

Always check the motorcycle first to make sure that everything is working: brakes, indicators, and wheels; also ensure that you have the right insurance and vehicle registration documents, which you need to carry with you at all times. All motorcyclists must wear helmets and these should be supplied at the time of rental for no extra charge. Ensure the helmet fits properly. If you cannot find one that fits, buy one.

By Taxi

Metered taxis are the best and most convenient way of getting round southern Bali if you haven't got your own car and driver. Costs start from the initial fee of Rp5,000 for the first 2km (1 1/4 miles) and then the meter ticks up Rp5,000 per kilometer thereafter. If you want to make any stops allow for about Rp20,000 per hour waiting. To rent a taxi for the day, agree on a price ahead of time and let the driver know what you expect from him. Most of them will want to show you their friends' shops and businesses, if you don't want to do this be very clear at the outset and be firm. If you haven't hired a car for your holiday but would like to head off somewhere for the day, some taxis are happy to take you on half-day or full-day excursions. Allow Rp450,000 for a full day. Made Sueta, owner of his own Ngurah Rai Taxi (tel. 08/123947919), is a fount of knowledge and would be happy to guide you around Bali.

Taxi numbers are: Bali Taxi/Blue Bird Taxi tel. 0361/701111; Komotra Taxi tel. 0361/499449; Ngurah Rai Taxi tel. 0361/724724; Wahana Taxi tel. 0361/244555; and Golden Bird Bali tel. 0361/702000.

By Bemo

Blue and brown vans called bemos operate as buses in Bali. They have regular routes, but these aren't really written down and they make numerous stops. A long-distance journey will likely include at least one transfer. Most tourists save the headache and go for private transport. Bemos are better for short hops (around town, for example) than long distances. Destinations and stops are posted in the front window. Denpasar is the main transportation hub for the entire island. A typical trip costs Rp5,000 to Rp10,000. Negotiate before riding. You pay before you alight.

By Bus

Perama Tours (tel. 0361/751551; www.peramatour.com) runs a shuttle bus that serves all the main towns and cities in Bali and also covers Mataram and Senggigi in Lombok (tel. 0370/635928). These are easy to catch, cheap, safe, and a comfortable way to explore. Unfortunately, they are very slow. If you need to travel between main towns they are a good mode of transport but they do not stop at small villages or well-known sights en route.

Tips for Families

Bali is an ideal family destination -- the whole family, whether you have very young children or older children, will find something to suit their tastes in Bali. Lombok less so, as it is does not offer the same variety of activities and is much less developed than Bali.

Hotels and restaurants are well equipped for kids and babies. Nearly all have cots and high chairs and if a restaurant doesn't have a kid's menu they are generally happy to make something simple for them to eat. Babysitting is easy to organize both night and day and reasonably priced. Some of the larger hotels have specialist kids' clubs with designated children check-in. Generally, kids up to the age of 12 are allowed to share a hotel room for free, though some hotels will charge a nominal fee.

With regards to children's admission, most places offer family packages at great discounts. Children under 4 are usual free but not always, especially at water parks or animal parks.

Most supermarkets stock baby food and toiletries, albeit very expensive as most is imported from the West. There is no need to bring prams as there are very few places to use one. If you are thinking of trekking with your very young child, bring a baby carry-pack.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out STA Travel (tel. 800/781-40404 in the U.S; www.statravel.com; and tel. 0871/2300040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.co.uk) for the best advice, cheap flights, and accommodations for Bali and Lombok.

Getting There

By Plane

Denpasar Airport, aka Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS; tel. 0361/751011) is 13km (8 miles) southwest of Denpasar. For airport information and connection to airline reservations counters, call tel. 0361/751011, ext. 1454. When you leave Bali, you pay an airport departure tax of Rp150,000 paid at immigration.

Most visitors from the U.S. and Canada fly here via Taipei on China Airlines, Bangkok on Thai Airways, Jakarta on Garuda Indonesia, Singapore on Singapore Airlines, Tokyo on Japan Airlines, Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific, or Seoul on Korean Air. Bali is served from Europe by Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong; tickets can be purchased from British Airways, Singapore Airlines, or Air France. Flights from Australia and New Zealand can be booked through Qantas.

Money

The unit of currency in Indonesia is the rupiah, from the Sanskrit word for wrought silver, rupya. Coins come in denominations of Rp25, 50, 100, and 500. Notes are Rp1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, and 100,000; the largest denomination is worth about US$10 (£5.90). The rate of exchange is relatively stable. At press time, the average was about Rp10,000 to US$1. Look to www.xe.com for the most up-to-date currency rates.

We've listed prices according to how each individual establishment lists them, typically either in rupiah or U.S. dollars..

Though you can order rupiah before leaving home, it is not necessary. Denpasar airport on Bali and Selaparang airport on Lombok have plenty of money changers in the arrival terminal and ATMs once through Customs.

Cash is king in Bali and Lombok. Wherever you go you will need it, whether to pay for parking, entrance to museums, tips, or taxi rides, or to buy knickknacks, you will need to have low denominations of cash. Although Rp100,000 bills are useful for high-priced items, smaller shops and taxis do not carry large amounts of change. There seems to be an expectation that the customer should provide appropriate change, rather than the other way round.

The maximum amount of currency that you can bring into Bali is US$10,000 in cash.

ATMs

ATMs are everywhere in south Bali. Withdrawals can be made with credit cards and some debit cards on the Maestro and Cirrus networks. Most ATMs dispense money in multiples of Rp50,000 which is extremely annoying when withdrawing large amounts of cash. A few machines will dispense Rp100,000 notes. All ATMs are clearly marked which denominations they pay out.

Some banks will only allow maximum withdrawals of Rp1,250,000 at one time but will allow up to three withdrawals in a day. Others will allow Rp3,000,000 at one time with a maximum of Rp6,000,000 withdrawal in a day. The best ATM we have found is Permata Bank, where you can withdraw Rp3,000,000 in Rp100,000 notes up to a maximum of two withdrawals. These ATMs are in the Circle K on Jalan Laksmana in Seminyak, on Jalan Legian near the turning to Jalan Double Six in Kuta, Jalan Tamblingan in Sanur, and Jalan Raya Ubud in Ubud.

Withdrawal charges depend on your bank in your country. Cash advances on credit cards are treated as loans and accrue interest daily. You will be charged a transaction fee, too. Withdrawals made with debit cards should only be charged a transaction fee. Inquire at your bank for rates. Sometimes it is better to pay for things on a credit card directly rather than paying in hard cash.

The best banks to withdraw money from are Bank Central Asia (BCA), Bank Lippo, Bank Mandiri, Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI), and Permata Bank. Outside the main tourist areas you will not find many ATMs. It is always best to take cash with you.

On Lombok you will find ATMs in Mataram, Senggigi, and Praya. Be sure to have enough cash before arrival.

Credit Cards

All high-end hotels, shops, restaurants, and nightclubs accept credit cards. Visa and MasterCard are the most commonly accepted cards but some do take American Express and Diners Club. Merchants may charge a 3% to 5% surcharge for credit transactions. Payments are usually in rupiah but some companies have been known to charge in U.S. dollars, particularly large hotel chains. If this is the case, ask them to clarify what exchange rate they are using as you may be better off paying in cash.

Foreign Exchange

Most major currency can be exchanged in banks, hotels, and authorized money changers in the main tourist areas. Rates depend on the currency and the denominations you are holding. U.S. dollars are the preferred currency but euros and sterling are also popular. U.S. bills issued before 2006 will receive a lower rate than newer ones. Sometimes any old, folded, or damaged notes will not be accepted due to the high risk of the note being forged.

Money changers generally offer the best rates and are the most convenient. Daily opening times vary from 9am until 10pm. Double-check your money before leaving as there are money changing scams, especially in the Kuta (on Bali) area. State-sponsored Wartel Telecommunications Service offices are the best. Banks generally offer the next favored rate but going into a bank is time-consuming and often exhausting. Hotels offer the lowest rate of exchange. Cashing traveler's checks requires a passport.

Getting Your Money's Worth When Changing Currency -- Although there are good, honest money changers there are also many unscrupulous vendors. Here are a few tips when using money changers:

* Make sure you do your own calculations. Do not rely on the staff. Some calculators can be tampered with.

* Check to see if there is a commission fee. Be cautious that you may have a good rate of exchange but have to pay a hefty commission rate. If the commission is low, ensure that you are getting a good exchange rate.

* Count the money yourself. Better still, count it twice. Do not pass it back to the staff to recount as you may find a few notes missing after leaving the shop.

* The money changers should give you a receipt. If they don't, insist.

* Be warned of counterfeit bills. If a note doesn't feel right, ask for another one. Do not accept any damaged currency.

* Be sure to count zeros on a note. Rp10,000 is roughly equivalent to US$1 and Rp100,000 is US$10.

Tips on Accommodations

Bali accommodations range from bungalows that cost Rp40,000 (yes, US$4) to luxury villas at US$1,000 a night. An increasingly popular trend for families and groups is to rent a villa, which can go from US$100 up to US$5,000 per night and are usually served by a retinue of staff. On the lower end, and for a more local experience, are losmen (traditional homestay, a bastardization of the Dutch word logement) or rustic bungalows. In the better homestays, expect a clean and simple room with a double or two single beds. They usually don't have air-conditioning, but they will have a fan. Better places will have an attached bathroom with a cold-water shower, Western toilet, and hand basin. The lower budget places will sometimes have a squat toilet and mandi (a bucket of water to splash over your body).

Many villas and bungalows have open-air bathrooms, often set in a lush garden. They are definitely a very Balinese experience, but may also shelter little uninvited guests and are best avoided if you have low tolerance for critters.

Bali's resorts and fine Western hotels cost a fraction of what luxury accommodations would elsewhere. Promotional and Internet rates are available at all hotels in Bali and Lombok. Paying the rack rates, or published rates (which are listed in this guide), even in high season, is almost unheard of. Especially in the off season, it pays to shop around; you can show up at the front desk of even the largest hotels and ask for the best rate.

Almost all hotels charge a 21% tax (10% government tax and 11% service) on top of the quoted rates. Some hotels tack on a charge in high season -- the 2 or 3 weeks around Christmas and New Year's, plus the months of July and August. Some establishments might charge only 17% tax and some only the 10% government tax with no service added. Check when you are booking.

Villas

Bali is becoming increasingly famous for its private villas complete with staff. Indonesia's low labor costs, at one-third the already low levels of Thailand, result in single villas employing teams from five to over 30 people.

We're proponents of the villa option, as opposed to a hotel or resort, because you receive more space, privacy, and exclusivity for your money. Plus, if you are traveling for longer than a week with kids or in a group larger than two, a villa can end up as a bargain in cost and convenience.

Some villas and hotels are decadently over the top. We are talking private spas and helipads -- you know, the necessities. Almost all stand-alone villas come with pools, gardens, and a full-time fleet of staff that usually includes a round-the-clock cook, housekeeper, gardener, and babysitter. Other standard features include air-conditioning, kitchens, stereo systems, satellite televisions, and IDD telephones. Most include an airport pickup and transfer; some have same-day laundry service, grocery shopping and restaurant delivery services, car and motorbike rentals, and catering. All villa compounds offer 24-hour reception and security. None of the villa complexes are beachfront but all are close to the action.

Not every place sold as a "villa" actually fits the bill. Prices vary widely: Some operators claim to go as low as US$30 a night (which usually just means a stand-alone hut on hotel grounds), but realistically you'll be looking at upwards of US$200 a night for a decent location and a private pool. At the top of the range nightly rents can easily go north of US$1,000 a night. The general rule "you get what you pay for" applies.

Most villas will have breakfast or a light snack ready for you on arrival. You then order your meals from a menu and they buy the groceries for you. Private villas normally have a higher quality of food, presentation, and service, but are much more expensive. Most stand-alone villas will buy your groceries, prepare your meals, and will charge between 10% and 30% in addition to the grocery bills. As a rule of thumb, the more expensive the villa the higher the additional expense on meals, but there are exceptions. Do the math first.

Look carefully at who is running the villa (run by the owner? local company? Western company? local staff who answer to an overseas owner?) and who you are renting through (directly from the owner? a management company? an established villa agent? one who just opened a month ago after his friend Nyoman told him how easy it was?). Each has its pros and cons. If it's an agency, see if it's been reviewed in the foreign press.

Ask how long the villa has been taking commercial guests. Villas normally take a year or so to get to best service levels. Also, in the first 6 to 12 months of operation great villas may offer introductory rates that are priced below market to gain awareness of their new offerings.

Estate Agents

Elite Havens. Jl. Raya Semer, Banjar Semer, Kerobokan (tel. 0361/731074; fax 0361/736391; www.elitehavens.com), is the leading luxury villa agency in Bali.

Bali Villa Worldwide (BVW). Jl. Laksmana 3B, Oberoi-Seminyak (tel. 0361/732013; fax 0361/736705; www.balivillaworldwide.com), manages a selection of top-notch properties available for rent all round Bali.

BaliOn, Pantai Seseh, Canggu (tel. 0361/742-4015; www.balion.com), a family-run agency with a broad selection of budget to luxury choices on the island.

Bali Tropical Villas, Jl. Raya Seminyak, Gang Lalu 7, Seminyak (tel. 0361/732083; fax 0361/732083; www.bali-tropical-villas.com), is run by Anita Lococo for over 15 years. There is nothing she doesn't know about most properties on the island, she has even written books on the subject.

Bali Experience, Jl. Banjar Anyar Kaja 89, Kerobokan (tel. 0361/844-5934; fax 0361/847-5160; www.bali-experience.com), has an easy-to-navigate website that makes choosing even harder as there are so many wonderful properties.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Bali and Lombok's hilly terrain, strong sea currents, and narrow streets with little parking may not make ideal conditions for travelers with disabilities but that shouldn't stop anyone from traveling here. What the islands lack in infrastructure they make up for with caring people and a willingness to help.

Two well-established companies can arrange all your travel needs, suitable accommodations, and any equipment hire. They also have a full-service bus with a lift facility. Special caretakers can be arranged through these websites at a cost of approximately US$20 a day. Contact Bali Access Travel, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 31, Sanur (tel. 0361/851990; www.baliaccesstravel.com), or Bali Mobility and Tours, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 54, Sanur (tel. 0361/2817-8054; www.balimobility.com).

Bali International Diving Professionals (tel. 0361/270759; www.bidp-balidiving.com), based in Sanur, are an experienced International Association for Handicapped Divers (IAHD; www.iahd.org) qualified dive team and have specially modified boats to assist with divers with disabilities.

Special-Interest Vacations

Ever since the days of Walter Spies in Ubud, Western artists have discovered profound inspiration in Bali's landscape. Of course, the Balinese were doing it long before the Westerners caught on.

The Suly Resort & Spa, Jl. Cok. Rai Pudak, Br. Yangloni, Peliatan (tel. 0361/976185; www.sulyresort.com; Rp100,000 per person per hour), has joined with Bali Global Ashram Foundation to create an education platform where visitors can take classes in pottery, painting, dance, wood carving, kite making, and cooking to name a few. Classes are run by professional and well-known Balinese instructors.

Performing Arts

The multicultural center Pondok Pekak, Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud (tel. 0361/976194), essentially a library, is a resource center that brings locals and Westerners together. They offer a wide range of community activities for children and adults largely focused on the Sanggar (traditional music and dance organization). Programs include gamelan and dance (legong and Frog dance) lessons. There are also a selection of traditional Balinese workshops, which allow visitors to learn about fruit carving, Indonesian language, and mask carving.

The Mekar Bhuana Conservatory, Jl. Penyaringan 24, Sanur (tel. 0361/842-7030 or 08/1999191104; www.balimusic.org), runs a selection of courses on gamelan and Balinese dance.

Tjokorda Raka Swastika, Puri Saren, Ubud (tel. 0361/975753), an accomplished musician who has played with and taught many of the best orchestras in Bali, is now running courses on gamelan and any other musical instruments that form part of the gong kebyar. Pak Tjokorda Raka is an excellent teacher for all levels. Classes are held in his house on the grounds of Puri Saren, Ubud's Palace.

Pottery

Italian Marcello and Michela Massoni head Gaya Ceramic and Design, Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud (tel. 0361/7451413; www.gayafusion.com), which produces pottery for famous brands like Armani and Bulgari. They offer a selection of courses and a residency program with instructors from all over the globe.

The Sari Api Ceramic Studio, Jl. Suweta, Ubud (tel. 0361/977917 or 08/124660919), allows guests to explore their creativity using clay. Beginner's classes for both kids and adults give an introduction to throwing clay on a wheel as well as hand building. Studio space can be rented out to skilled potters.

Silversmithing & Jewelry

Studio Perak, Jl. Hanoman, Ubud (tel. 08/123651809; www.studioperak.com), employs traditional Balinese silversmithing. Husband and wife Ketut and Joanna have developed their own courses for visitors to try their hands at making Balinese styled jewelry. Try their 3-hour course and make a ring or pendant. Children from 8 years are also welcome.

Textiles

Threads of Life's, Jl. Kajeng 24, Ubud (tel. 0361/972187), courses explore the history, weaving, dyeing techniques as well as the traditions of ikat and batik using handspun threads and natural dyes. The money goes to support local communities. Classes run between Rp50,000 and Rp150,000.

The best place to learn about the rich history of Batik and the techniques of the trade is with Bali's own batik artist Ketut Sujana (tel. 0361/979097 or 08/123762280). Ketut offers hands-on courses for individuals or groups. His workshop is behind his studio in Lungsiakan, on the main road opposite Fly Café outside Ubud. Ketut charges Rp50,000 an hour. Allow about 3 hours for your first course.

Cooking

Several half-day and full-day cooking courses are on offer in Bali. The day typically starts with a visit to a local fresh food market to learn about all the ingredients that go into creating a Balinese dish. The chef will then explain the techniques that are used to put together your dish and once cooking is over, you are rewarded with eating your creation. Look into the following schools: Alila Manggis resort in Manggis (tel. 0363/41044; www.alilahotels.com); Bambu Bali in Nusa Dua (tel. 0361/771256; www.balifoods.com); and in Ubud, Casa Luna (tel. 0361/973282; www.casalunabali.com) and Mozaic (tel. 0361/975768; www.mozaic-bali.com). Hotels may also arrange classes on request. Hanging Gardens is one of note.

Regions in Brief

Physically, Bali is divided in half, east to west, by a volcanic mountain chain, and north to south by deep river gorges. Black volcanic sand is the norm, but white sand beaches periodically dot the coast, with some of the most spectacular either on the Bukit or hidden in the east. The island is dominated by two active volcanoes, Gunung Agung, the apex of Balinese religious and cultural belief, and Gunung Batur, with its twin calderas and shimmering lake. The northwest is given over mainly to national park, the central mountains to coffee and crops, and the remote east with its pebble beaches and crystal clear seas, to diving and snorkeling.

South Bali -- The triangular wedge of tropical lowlands south of Ubud to the Bukit Peninsula is the most developed area of Bali. The tourist hub of Seminyak-Legian-Kuta is next door to the international airport and provides a convenient first stop and a good base for day trips. Kuta is perhaps the most developed, with the cheapest digs on the island. The tourist influx means this is the place to come for nightlife, which attracts a younger, backpacking crowd, but you'll find much better fine-dining options in Seminyak. Unfortunately, Kuta Beach has a very strong current, which makes swimming difficult and dangerous, but it's a surfer's paradise with rip curls and challenging waves. Seminyak is certainly Bali's chicest "village," home to the majority of the island's expats and upscale accommodation.

Denpasar is Bali's capital, with a population of over a half-million. Though most visitors completely bypass the city for more idyllic surrounds, it is home to the Bali Museum, one of the island's best for a general overview of Balinese history and culture.

Though Sanur has a history of hosting international visitors that dates to the beginning of the 20th century, it maintains a level of tranquility near impossible to find in the tourist mania of Seminyak-Legian-Kuta. Surfing, windsurfing, scuba diving, and snorkeling are the main attractions here. Just off shore are the islands of Penida, Lembongan, and Ceningan, which provide some of Bali's finest scuba diving and are an easy boat ride from the mainland.

Bukit Peninsula -- This dollop of land just to the south of the airport is not only a favorite among globetrotting surfers, but also hot on the list of hotel and resort developers. Jimbaran Bay, just past the airport, is famous for its beach lined with seafood restaurants. Nusa Dua is a government-sponsored and -built walled high-end resort that sits above the eastern cliffs and is soon to be joined by a similar new development, Pecatu Indah, on the west. In the meantime, the surf still rages at Uluwatu, one of Bali's, and indeed the world's, most famous waves.

Ubud -- Simply put, Ubud's raison d'être is to be Balinese. The island's rich culture -- with traditions, artistry, and spirituality that encompass seemingly every aspect of daily life -- thrives here in a multitude of temples, museums, art galleries, and artisan villages. Money and development in Ubud is funneled toward preserving traditions and encouraging cultural innovations; international chain companies are kept at bay. You cannot visit Bali without seeing Ubud.

Central Mountains -- Volcanic Gunung Batur, with its double caldera, is the biggest draw for visitors to the central mountains. But as a visitor, your experience of the mountain may be sullied by overly aggressive touts and busloads of tourists. Certainly the view from the top at sunrise will be worth it. Don't overlook the other highland charms hidden in villages on the volcano's slopes. Bring your hiking shoes and warm clothes -- it's a different world up here.

East -- The volcanic chain of mountains that dominate Bali's landscape are home to the center of the Balinese world: Gunung Agung. On the drive up to the mountain and Pura Besakih, Bali's largest and holiest temple, you'll pass through one of Bali's most scenic areas, the Sidemen Valley. East Bali also has its fair share of gorgeous coastline and some of Bali's greatest scuba diving and snorkeling is right off the shore of Tulamben and Amed.

North -- North Bali's string of seaside villages and resorts are cut off from the south by the mountains.

West -- The western half of Bali is dominated by the West Bali National Park, with its hiking and bird-watching, and supreme diving off Menjangan Island.

When to Go

Weather

Bali lies between latitude 08 45S and longitude 115 10E, which places it firmly in the topics. Accordingly, average year-round temperatures are a balmy 26°C to 29°C (80°F -- 85°F) varying only with altitude. The average temperatures in the central mountains are 18°C to 24°C (64°F -- 75°F). Days are generally 12 hours long year-round.

In general, Bali and Lombok have similar weather, though Lombok is dried and receives less rain than Bali. The hot and sticky rainy season lasts October to March with downpours that can obscure all visibility. The wet season brings daily rain with the worst falling between December and February. From June to August, the temperature drops slightly and there is usually a refreshing cool breeze in the air. Humidity is high during the rainy season and better in the dry season.

The popular dry season, referred to as "summer" by the locals even though it is the southern hemisphere, is cooler and much more pleasant. The best time to visit is during the dry season from April to October. This is also high season together with Christmas and New Year, when most hotels and villas will charge higher rates. December and January are characterized by sudden and short thunderstorms in the afternoon, though sometimes it can rain for days, flooding all the rivers and roads. For up-to-date information on weather in Bali go to www.accuweather.com.

Low, High & Peak Season

Low: January 9 to June 30; September 16 to December 20. Low season is a great time to negotiate deals on accommodations and find cheap hotel packages.

High: July; September 1 to September 15; Chinese New Year and Easter week. Accommodation is hard to find and almost as expensive as peak season. Roads aren't as congested as at peak, but it is still difficult to get around with ease.

Peak: August; December 20 to January 9. Although the weather in August is cooler than the rest of the year and there is very little rain, December's weather is hot and humidity is high. During peak season, Bali is bursting at the seams with tourists. The roads become heavily congested and dinner reservations are hard to get. Expect to pay almost double for accommodations; shopkeepers will drive a hard bargain.

Public Holidays

Most of the major Christian, Muslim, Hindu, and Buddhist holidays are celebrated in Bali. The government also sets a few additional days every year during the year, though Islamic holiday dates change year to year. January: 1 New Year; February: 14 Chinese New Year (2561), 26 Maulid (Birth of the Prophet); March: 16 Nyepi Balinese New Year (1932); April: 2 Good Friday, 28 Waisak Day (Buddha's birthday); May: 13 Ascension Day; August: 17 Indonesia Independence Day; September: 11 and 12 Eid-ul-Fitr Muslim festival to end Ramadan, 13 shared holiday by government decree; November: 17 Idul Adha, cattle sacrifice and hajj pilgrimage; December: 7 Islamic New Year (1432), 25 Christmas.

Major Religious Festivals

On Bali -- Festivals and religious events are important features in the social landscape of Bali, and are also permanent fixtures in Balinese daily life. Celebrations in Bali follow a lunar calendar rather than the Western calendar. Thus many major festivals fall on different dates over the years.

While the temple festivals are pretty to witness, a village festival is a rare treat. Most villages have their own annual festivals generally exclusive to their village. They can be enormous spectacles and worth a visit. Take a guide to explain the traditions and help with translations as most people who attend don't speak English. Look out for the Med-medan in Denpasar , Ngerebeg Ceremony in Tegalalang, Usaba Sambah festival, which includes the makare kare and maayunan in Tenangan.

Galungan (May 12, 2010; Dec 8, 2010; July 6, 2011), the most prestigious festival (similar to Christmas on the Western calendar), occurs every 210 days and lasts for 10 days. The festival celebrates the coming of the gods and ancestral spirits to earth to dwell again in the homes of their descendents. Festivities are characterized by offerings, dances, new clothes, plenty of feasting, and visits to family and friends. The celebrations end with Kuningan (May 22, 2010; Dec 18, 2010; July 16, 2011) where the families bid their farewells to the gods and spirits.

Every village in Bali celebrates Galungan and Kuningan by adorning the outside of their houses with a penjor, a decorative tall bamboo pole, about 8m (26 ft.) high, with palm leaves, rice stems, coconuts, and corn. At the end of each of the poles hangs a sampian, a beautiful plaited palm leaf creation. Some poles are decorated with lights similar to a Christmas tree. The poles are usually installed on the Tuesday before Galungan, they should be removed and the ornaments burned after 42 days.

Tawur Kesanga or Ogoh-Ogoh day, occurs the day before Nyepi . Villagers hold a large exorcism-celebration at the main village crossroad. Throughout the month of March, you will see villages making large ogoh-ogohs, fantastic 4 1/2m to 6m (15 ft. -- 20 ft.) papier-mâché effigies. Neighboring villages compete to build the scariest and largest ogoh-ogohs imaginable. After sunset, the villages carry their ogoh-ogohs on a bamboo platform through the streets to the sound of gamelan. When they arrive at the crossroad, the ogoh-ogohs are held aloft to a crescendo of noise from drums, gongs, cymbals, and voices. In order to start the new year with a clean slate, tradition demands that evil spirits are woken up and driven away from the island by loud clashing noise. The carnival ends with the ogoh-ogohs being lead to the beach where they are burned, but more recently, given the cost of manufacture, they have been sold on to collectors.

Nyepi (March 16, 2010; April 4, 2011), the day following the dark moon of the spring equinox, opens a new year of the Saka calendar. It is the Balinese equivalent to New Year's Eve in the Western calendar. It is celebrated by "a day of silence," fasting, and meditation, which begins at 6am and ends the following day at 6am. During the day, people respect strict rules set centuries ago: no working, no entertainment (even love making), no traveling, no talking, no TV and radio, no eating, and no lights -- most banjars cut off power to the area, though they will give electricity to families who have babies or young children. People are not allowed to leave their houses and security guards, called pecaleng, patrol the streets to ensure no one disobeys the rules. The airport is closed and no flights are allowed to land or take off during the day. Hotels are allowed electricity to feed their guests but are not allowed to let their guests leave the property. The traditional "fear" is that evil spirits may still have not left the island and any sound will draw them to your house. By being silent, the evil spirits will leave in search of noise.

Saraswati, the fifth day of the Indian month Magh (Jan -- Feb), is a day devoted to the goddess of knowledge, arts, and literature, Dewi Saraswati. To mark the occasion, offerings are placed on books and shrines. Students and teachers attend special ceremonies in schools and universities.

On Lombok -- The main religious event on Lombok is the Bau Nyale Festival (Feb or Mar). The Lingsar Temple is the site of a mock war in October for Perang Topat.

Nonreligious Festivals

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Bali Spirit Festival (www.balispiritfestival.com): A yoga festival based in Ubud over a week in March or April.

Bali Arts Festival (www.baliartsfestival.com; Taman Werdhi Budaya Arts Center, Jl. Nusa Indah, Denpasar; tel. 0361/227176; www.artifoundation.org): A month-long (typically June -- July) festival in Denpasar. Dancers from all over Bali gather for the opening grand parade. Events include traditional dances, music, and night markets. Special foreign groups are also invited to perform.

Senggigi Festival: A week-long cultural festival in July in Lombok's tourism central.

Sanur Kite Festival: Typically held over 3 days during July or August depending on the wind in Kesiman, near Sanur. Daily competitions are attended by thousands of locals and teams from overseas keen to win a prize.

Negara Bull Races (Bali Tourism Board in Denpasar tel. 0361/223602): Traditional bull races occur every other Sunday from July through October in Parancak.

Nusa Dua Festival: A week-long festival in August offering an insight into Balinese culture and customs with art, cultural, and sporting events.

Sanur Village Festival (www.gotosanur.com): A weekend festival in August that celebrates Sanur with music and dance.

Kuta Karnival (www.kutakarnival.com): A week in September of surfing competitions, games, music, and food in Kuta.

Ubud Writers Festival (www.ubudwritersfestival.com): A festival to exchange ideas and celebrate writing in Bali and the world; 1 week in October.

Odalan Ceremonies & Festivals

An odalan is the anniversary of a temple's founding and is the best time to visit. These festivals can last a day or more. Temples are beautifully decorated with flowers, palm leaves, flags, and penjor. Offerings of food, flowers, and prayer are made and music is performed. Some of the smaller temple anniversaries aren't as spectacular but will be less crowded. Below is a list of odalan celebrations throughout Bali by temple. Dates are fixed year to year. Pura means "temple."

January

2: Pura Puseh and Pura Desa, Gianyar; Pura Luhur Dalem Segening, Tabanan.

6: Pura Dalem Tarukan Linggih Pajenengan Ida Dalem Tarukan, Gianyar; Pura Penataran Dalem Ketut, Gianyar; Pura Puseh Manikaji Desa Peninjoan, Bangli.

13: Pura Srijong, Tabanan; Pura Rambutsiwi, Jembrana.

27: Pura Dalem Puri, Besakih.

February

6: Pura Maspait, Jembrana.

10: Pura Penataran Agung, Karangasem; Pura Penataran Peet, Klungkung.

March

1: Pura Jati, Jembrana.

3: Pura Kehen, Bangli; Pura Yogan Agung, Badung.

23: Pura Masceti, Gianyar.

April

27: Pura Beratan, Klungkung.

May

13: Pura Lempuyang Luhur, Karangasem; Pura Batukaru, Tabanan; Pura Kentel Gumi, Klungkung.

14: Pura Ulunsari, Badung.

15: Pura Segara, Badung.

17: Pura Dasar, Klungkung.

22: Pura Pekendungan, Tabanan; Pura Bukit Jati, Bangli; Pura Sadha, Badung; Pura Sakenan, Badung; Pura Taman Pule, Gianyar; Pura Samuan Tiga, Gianyar.

26: Pura Tanah Lot, Tabanan.

June

1: Pura Andakasa, Karangasem; Pura Goa Lawah, Klungkung; Pura Uluwatu, Badung.

2: Pura Gede Perancak, Jembrana.

16: Pura Silayukti, Karangasem; Pura Air Jeruk, Gianyar.

26: Pura Pasek Gelgel, Buleleng; Pura Dalem Pemuteran, Klungkung; Pura Pedharman Bhujangga, Besakih; Pura Taman Sari, Tabanan; Pura Dalem Tarukan, Bangli; Pura Benua Kangin, Besakih; Pura Merajan Kanginan (Ida Betara Empu Berabah), Besakih.

27: Pura Parangan Tengah, Nusa Penida.

30: Pura Petitenget, Badung; Pura Kereb Langit, Badung.

30: Pura Bendesa Mas Kepisah, South Denpasar; Pura Natih, Batubulan; Pura Puseh, Kerobokan; Pura Desa Silakarang, Singapadu; Pura Dalem Petitenget, Kerobokan; Pura Dalem Pulasari, Gianyar; Pura Kubayan, Pedungan; Pura Pasek Gelgel, Tabanan; Pura Pibon, Denpasar; Pura Pasek Lumintang, Denpasar; Pura Panti Penyarikan Medahan, Tampak Siring; Pura Pasah Agung, Kediri.

July

6: Pura Dalem Puri, Gianyar; Pura Dalem Kediri, Singapadu; Pura Dalem Desa, Sukawati; Pura Dalem Desa Singakerta, Ubud; Pura Dalem, Sukawati; Pura Paibon Pasek Tangkas, Ubud; Pura Puseh Ngukuhin, Gianyar; Pura Pemerajan Agung Ki Telabah, Tabanan; Pura Karang Buncing, Gianyar; Pura Dalem Desa Bubunan, Buleleng; Pura Luhur Pedengenan, Tabanan; Pura Pucak Payongan, Ubud; Pura Tanah Kilap Griya Anyar Suwung Kauh, Denpasar; Pura Selukat, Gianyar.

7: Pura Sari, Kapal.

21: Pura Puseh, Desa Sukawati; Pura Pasek Gelgel, Buleleng; Pura Maospahit, Denpasar; Pura Bendesa Manik Mas, Tegalalang; Pura Panti Pasek Gaduh, Denpasar.

31: Pura Puseh and Pura Desa, Gianyar; Pura Luhur Dalem Segening, Tabanan.

August

4: Pura Dalem Tarukan Linggih Pajenengan Ida Dalem Tarukan, Gianyar, Pura Penataran Dalem Ketut, Gianyar; Pura Puseh Manikaji, Bangli.

11: Pura Srijong, Tabanan; Pura Rambutsiwi, Jembrana.

September

4: Pura Maspait, Jembrana.

8: Pura Penataran Agung, Karangasem; Pura Penataran Peet, Klungkung.

27: Pura Jati, Jembrana.

29: Pura Kehen, Bangli; Pura Yogan Agung, Gianyar.

October

19: Pura Masceti, Gianyar.

November

23: Pura Beratan, Klungkung.

December

9: Pura Lempuyang Luhur, Karangasem; Pura Batukaru, Tabanan; Pura Kentel Gumi, Klungkung.

10: Pura Ulunsari, Badung.

11: Pura Segara, Badung.

13: Pura Dasar, Klungkung.

18: Pura Pekendungan, Tabanan; Pura Bukit Jati, Bangli; Pura Sadha, Badung; Pura Sakenan, Badung; Pura Taman Pule, Gianyar; Pura Samuan Tiga, Gianyar.

22: Pura Tanah Lot, Tabanan.

28: Pura Andakasa, Karangasem; Pura Goa Lawah, Klungkung; Pura Uluwatu, Badung; Pura Taman Ayun, Badung.

29: Pura Gede Perancak, Jembrana.

Bali Sports Online

To find out what is happening in the sports world of Bali at any time check out the Sanur-based Bali sports online magazine at www.stiffchilli.com.

Tips for Women Travelers

For the female traveler, Bali is a safe island to discover on your own or in a group. On the whole, Balinese men are fairly benign to the appearance of Western women however we are seeing an increase in visitors from neighboring countries who have come to work on the building sites and in the fields that think nothing of wolf whistling, cat-calling, and making lewd propositions. Most of them are harmless but you should be vigilant when walking around at night in areas where these men hang out. The only people to be wary of are the Kuta cowboys, men who prey on woman looking to establish a relationship. For them, this is an opportunity to obtain some well-needed funds and have some fun at someone else's expense.

While traveling around the island, dress appropriately so as not to offend. While tight shorts and bare shoulders are acceptable on the beaches, they are frowned upon in the more rural areas.

For those traveling to Lombok, as long as you are respectful of their Muslim culture and dress appropriately you should not be bothered.

Bali and Lombok are generally safe and single travelers face no real threat or dangers. That said, don't throw common sense out of the window. Women on their own, in particular, should still be careful especially when out alone in the evening. Both men and women should beware of nightclubs where there have been a few cases of people having their drinks spiked. Never leave your drink unguarded or with a stranger.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

With its exceptional natural sites and indigenous cultures, Indonesia could become one of the world leaders in ecotourism with Bali playing a key role. However ecotourism development in Bali is still far from its potential, although increasing awareness and a more educated traveler has made this sector the most interesting growth segment of tourism in Bali today.

Historically, Bali attracted the rich, the cultured, and the bohemian, seeking the idyllic island life. Yet, this paradise situation eventually gave way to the advent of cheaper travel brought on by a new wave of tourists, many initially seeking the surf of Kuta. Low-end hotels and guesthouses quickly sprang up to cater to this new market.

To counter this tourist insurgency, the government of the day had a plan: containment. The maxim being that tourist revenues were good, but tourism on the whole was bad. The government attempted to keep this growing wave within the confines of a government-sponsored tourist enclave, Nusa Dua, but this proved to be short lived. Not only did tourism persist beyond the artificial boundaries, but it soon became clear that focusing tourism in one area at the expense of all others not only created an imbalance in tourist revenues but also led to an uneven and unsustainable demand for water, waste-disposal, and road use, not to mention negative ecological impact and coastal erosion.

Rolling forward to today when one would hope some lessons had been learned, the demand for basic utilities and the need to dispose of the waste and effluence of the millions of tourists leads many of the grand hotels of Seminyak and Kuta to still directly pollute the immediate seas and beaches on which their revenues rely.

The effects on the social strata and structure of Bali has been, to date, much contained, due in many parts to the self-policing and self-appointed village council, the banjar. They rule over social laws and are a necessary ally for any hotel, villa, or other business. Woe betide any who challenges their authority without just cause.

Tourists too have reacted against their irresponsible past. The noisy few that pollute the streets and bars of Kuta are slowly being outnumbered by a responsible and growing majority seeking the peace and natural charms of the original Bali. This is evidenced by the increasing number of eco- and socially responsible semi educational resorts. The Aman hotel group is possibly the most high profile tourist-dependant business that prides itself on bringing more to a community than it can take away.

Bali is now seeing a huge development in ecotourism resorts. While some of them are extremely good others make promises they do not follow through on. While in no way an exclusive list, we recommend the following accommodations, which are all trying to do something positive for the local environment: Menjangan Resort, Munduk Moding Plantation, Puri Lumbung Cottages, Sarinbuana Eco-Lodge, and Udayana Eco Lodge. Some newer resorts are fully off the grid, powered by solar or wind and even charge separately for air-conditioning such as Gili Eco Villas.

Among more dedicated offerings is C Bali and the village ecotourism network JED with their four initiatives in Sibetan, Kiadan Pelaga, Tenganan, and Nusa Ceningan.

The waters around Bali and Lombok offer some of the best diving in the world, however the coral reefs and the marine ecosystems face increased pressures from sedimentation, pollution, over fishing, reef bombing, cyanide fishing, and exploitative recreational activities. Various initiatives and teams of dive schools are working together to help promote the rejuvenation of damaged reefs, educate fishermen about safe fishing practices, and protect the reefs from any further erosion. The Gili Eco Trust (www.giliecotrust.com) works with all seven of the dive schools in the Gili Islands to outstanding success. In Permuteran, Reef Seen Aquatics have built the largest "Biorock" installation in the world while working with the local community to create other successful restoration projects. The World Wildlife Federation in Indonesia is working with Friends of the Reef to help protect the reef in the West National Park.