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The marketing mavens pushed this new Cindy Wolf–Tony Foreman eatery (see Charleston review) as an upscale diner. Although they have a room with an old-style soda fountain counter I'm not buying the concept. But I will go back for the food—as long as they seat me on the other side of the restaurant in the dark cave of a dining room near the open kitchen. Johnny's is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a menu filled with old-fashioned goodness. There's pastry, muesli, and all kinds of eggs for breakfast; sandwiches, wraps, and way-creative salads (with honey-poached cranberries, or marinated fennel or a maple-glazed salmon topper) for lunch; and dinner choices you don't see on menus much anymore. Try the meatloaf with mac and cheese, the Black Angus burger, or one of those great entree salads. A "coffee auteur" is busy brewing up some hot happiness—and as with any Wolf-Foreman enterprise, the wine list has a fine selection at low and moderate price points. In the same Roland Park shopping center, you'll find the brother restaurant, Petit Louis (410/366-9393, www.petitlouis.com), a bistro so French you'll be saying "mercy!" It's open for lunch Tuesday to Friday and dinner every night. Both are good choices for visitors at the local universities, the Baltimore Museum of Art, or other north Baltimore locations.