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"Farm-to-table" is the concept here, but it's done exceptionally well by chef/owner Spike Gjerde. He dresses his wait staff in old-fashioned aprons and plaid flannel shirts, lights his rustic dining rooms with candlelight, and serves foods we all know, but in bright new ways and often with unusual side dishes.  So you might dine on rigatoni napped in a savory lamb sauce, tender rockfish baked with clams, or a juicy tavern steak accompanied by tatsoi (a spicy green similar to mustard greens, but with a texture more akin to bok choy).  For lighter eaters there's a creative assortment of flatbreads. Brunch is big here on weekends ranging from hearty entrees like oxtail and hominy or steak and eggs to a variety of pastries, coffees, and cocktails. Reservations are a must. Spike recently opened Artifact Coffee at 1500 Union Ave. in Hampden (410/235-1881, www.artifactcoffee.com), which serves breakfast, casual eats, and coffee that puts Starbucks to shame.