Things To Do in Bangli

Bukit Demulih, literally the "hill of no return," is about 3km (2 miles), about an hour's walk, west of Bangli. At the top of the hill is a small picturesque temple and stunning views over central Bali. En route, you will find a small holy waterfall, located in a bamboo setting. Take a guide from your hotel.

The town, the old capital of the regency, is dominated by the puri, or palaces. The Bangli court established their independence from Klungkung in the 19th century and played an influential role in Balinese politics through to the post-independence era. Eight royal households are spread around the main crossroads. The most prominent is the Puri Denpasar, the palace of the last rajah of Bangli, who died 30 years ago. His descendants have restored much of the palace, and there is now a small hotel in the pavilions run by the rajah's grandson. The royal ancestral temple lies just to the north of the crossroads, on the western side. Huge ceremonies are held here, attended by all descendants of the royal house, including many who live in other parts of Indonesia.

Gunung Agung

Gunung Agung, Bali's highest and, for this reason, holiest mountain, reaches just over 3,100m (10,170 ft.) and is usually at least partly obscured by cloud and mist. To the Balinese, Bali is the entire world, and Gunung Agung is the world's most sacred point. They believe that Mount Agung is a replica of Mount Meru, the central axis of the universe. And so, half way up they built Pura Besakih, the Mother Temple. At some stage in their life, all Balinese must make a pilgrimage up the mountain, the closest point to heaven and where the gods live when they visit mother earth. However Mount Agung, while not a technically difficult climb, is one of Bali's biggest trekking challenges and should not be taken lightly and certainly not without a guide. Start well before dawn, armed with a strong flashlight, water, food, warm and waterproof clothing, and sensible shoes or boots. The best time for a climb is during the dry season of April through October. However as a holy mountain, climbing is not permitted when major religious events are held at the temple at Besakih, which is most of April. Check exact dates, as they operate on the Balinese calendar.

Climbing Gunung Agung -- The shortest and most popular route up Mount Agung is from Selat or Muncan, which involves the least walking, due to serviceable roads from either town which lead to the Pura Pasar Agung (Agung Market Temple). From this temple, the climb takes between 2 and 4 hours depending on your level of fitness. Leave by 3am at the latest if you want to get there for sunrise. The other route starts from Besakih and the climb is longer and more challenging, and only really suitable for the physically fit. From Besakih you have the option of either attacking the climb in one hit of between 5 and 6 hours or doing it with an overnight camp. Most prefer to start around 10 or 11pm arriving at the summit in time to enjoy the sunrise -- rain, mist, and other climbers permitting.

At the summit on a clear morning you enjoy a 360-degree view over the Lombok Strait to Mount Rinjani and verdant Bali. Be prepared for adverse weather conditions as storms develop quickly. There are no shops along the route.

Guides are available in Besakih. We recommend: Gung Bawa Trekking (tel. 08/123878168), a reliable guide who has been trekking this mountain for years; M&G Trekking (tel. 036/341464 or 08/133153991) in Candidasa, can offer alternative routes; or Ketut Uriada (tel. 0812/3646426), based in Muncan, who is very knowledgeable about the area.