Hotels in Bansko

You have two lodging choices in Bansko: You can stay in a B&B in the old quarter, where facilities are basic but atmospheric and close to the best restaurants in town (note that these may be a little too close in high season, when evening festivities can continue until quite late). Or you can base yourself in the new part of town, where the main benefit is the proximity to the gondola (a 15- to 25-min. walk if you're based in the old quarter).

The selection below includes the best available in 2008, but note that developments continue apace. If you're in Bansko for an extended skiing trip, you may get a far better package deal in a hotel not listed here. The hotel and service might prove forgettable, but the price may be just right. For details on agents who can arrange lodgings, see the last entry of this section. Expect to pay double the summer rate during winter, and triple over the peak time (usually the period just before Christmas and a few days into Jan). Hotels and even B&B owners are reluctant to divulge winter rates early (supply and demand being the order of the day), so be prepared for some fluctuations to rates quoted below. Children age 4 and under usually stay free.

Old Quarter

There are plenty of places to stay in the old quarter, but Dedo Pene (tel. 0888 795970, or 937/299-5643 in the U.S.; www.dedopene.com; 50lev/$41/£25 double) is one of the coziest. The 1820 home is a bit eclectic, so its 10 rooms vary quite a bit, as do their prices, but all share a wonderfully authentic, rustic, and cozy atmosphere, with traditional furnishings and fittings (including the lovely basins -- traditionally used to carry water from the well), and wood- and coal-burning fireplaces. Room nos. 1 and 4 have lovely views of the distant Pirin; others look out onto the red-tiled roofs of the old quarter. Make sure you request a room with a view. A close contender, and a little cheaper (in every way) is Dvata Smurcha, 2 Velyan Ognev (tel. 07443/2632; 16lev-18lev/$13-$15/£8.05-£9.30 per person, including breakfast). It is located a few steps away from the brilliant Baryakova mehana and named after the two pine trees in its well-tended garden. The friendly proprietor speaks virtually no English but is all smiles, and offers five spotless en suite rooms, most with balconies. The old part of the house (over 100 years) has rooms with balconies that provide lovely views of the Pirin, while rooms in the newer part are slightly bigger and fresher, with garden views. If you fancy staying in a museum of sorts, another good option is Hadzhiruskovite kushti, 33 Pirin St. (tel. 07443/8422; 15lev-18lev ($12-$15/£7.45-£9.30 per person). Once home to the man who designed the village church's bell tower, which still calls the faithful to worship every Sunday, and until recently the property of the Union of Bulgarian Architects, it is a truly authentic example of Bansko's 19th-century residences: It is almost totally original, with solid stone walls and heavy woodwork. Note that just the two rooms on the second floor (nos. 5 and 6) are worth booking. These have enough light (rooms below are dark) and open onto a wide veranda with rustic tables and chairs that overlook the untended stone-walled garden. The charming Marin (enough English to get by), makes a delicious home-brewed rakia (brandy). If he knows you know, he's sure to offer.

"New" Bansko

The four-star Hotel Perun (tel. 0749/88477; www.hotelperunbansko.com) is very much a Kempinski wannabe, but without the class, staff, or view. Nonetheless, it is a rather smart-looking alpine edifice, a 10-minute walk from the gondola (or you can use the hotel's shuttle bus service), and has after Kempinski, the second-best facilities in town (okay, Hotel Strazhite has a bowling alley, but you don't want to be stuck with that decor). It's also the best value for your money, even in high season when rooms range between 60€ and 170€ ($76-$216). Families should book the Double Deluxe rooms with two separate rooms, each with its own bathroom. If you can forego hotel facilities and are planning to stay for more than a couple of days, Todorini Kuli apartments (tel. 0888 441005; www.todorinikuli.com) are the best deal in "new" Bansko, offering excellent value and a great location directly opposite the Kempinski (50m/165 ft. from the gondola). Apartments are pretty characterless, but they are newish, so finishes look fresh and equipment functions well. Couples should book room no. 2, the biggest; families should opt for a one-bedroom apartment, with separate bedroom and open-plan lounge with fireplace, dining room, and kitchen -- no. 15 is a good option. Rates, depending on size and season, range between 10€ and 82€ ($13-$104).