Smartly priced Hotel Balmes shares the serene modern style of the Derby Group chain, which we’d call a cross between a small art museum and a well-appointed gentleman’s club. (The Derby Group’s owner is an indefatigable art collector.) In this case the art consists of an extensive collection of sub-Saharan African masks and small wooden sculptures in both public areas and individual guest rooms. Even standard rooms are spacious, and several superior rooms feature small outdoor terraces. If you’re interested in a larger space with a kitchenette, the hotel also has a few flats available in a building behind the courtyard, Balmes Residences. You’ll wake up under a gilded Modernista ceiling.