The stone wharves of the harbor at Bermeo look so much like a Hollywood idea of a fishing village that it should make you hungry. If it does, Jokin can sate that desire. Start with the big gambas (prawns) wrapped around balls of rice and minced shrimp, or a cup of marmitako, the great spicy Basque fish chowder made with bonito or skipjack. The restaurant perches on one of those stone embankments overlooking the fishing fleet, so you can see exactly where your dinner came from.