Bath Attractions

Stroll around to see some of the buildings, crescents, and squares in town. John Wood the Elder (1704-54) laid out many of the most famous streets and buildings of Bath, including North and South Parades and Queen Square. His masterpiece is the Circus, built on Barton Fields outside the old city walls. He showed how a row of town houses could be made to look palatial. Fellow architects have praised his "uniform facades and rhythmic proportions." Also of interest is the shop-lined Pulteney Bridge, designed by Robert Adam and often compared to the Ponte Vecchio of Florence.

The younger John Wood designed the Royal Crescent, an elegant half-moon row of town houses (copied by Astor architects for their colonnade in New York City in the 1830s). At No. 1 Royal Crescent (tel. 01225/428126; www.bath-preservation-trust.org.uk), the interior has been redecorated and furnished by the Bath Preservation Trust to look as it might have toward the end of the 18th century. The house lies at one end of Bath's most magnificent crescents, west of the Circus. Admission is £5 for adults, £4 for students and seniors, and £2.50 for children ages 5 to 16; a family ticket is £12. The house is open from mid-March to October Tuesday to Sunday 10:30am to 5pm, and November Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30am to 4pm (last admission 30 min. before closing); it is closed Good Friday and December to mid-February.

Free 1 3/4-hour walking tours are conducted throughout the year by the Mayor's Honorary Society (tel. 01225/477411). Tours depart from outside the Pump Room in the Abbey churchyard (look for the WALKING TOURS sign) Sunday to Friday at 10:30am and 2pm, Saturday at 10:30am; May to September, another tour is added on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday at 7pm.

The Jane Austen Centre, 40 Gay St. (tel. 01225/443000; www.janeausten.co.uk), is located in a Georgian town house on an elegant street where Miss Austen once lived. Exhibits and a video convey a sense of what life was like in Bath during the Regency period. The center is open mid-February to October daily from 9:45am to 5:30pm, and November to mid-February Sunday to Friday 11am to 4:30pm, Saturday 10am to 5:30pm. Admission is £6.50 for adults, £4.95 students and seniors, £3.50 children 6 to 15, and £18 family ticket.

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Bath Shopping

Bath is loaded with markets and fairs, antiques centers, and small shops, with literally hundreds of opportunities to buy (and ship) anything you want (including the famous spa waters, for sale by the bottle). Prices, however, are comparable to London's.

The whole city is basically one long, slightly undulating shopping area. It's not defined by one high street, as are so many British towns -- if you arrive by train, don't be put off by the lack of scenery. Within 2 blocks are several shopping streets. The single best day to visit, if you are a serious shopper intent on hitting the flea markets, is Wednesday.

The Bartlett Street Antiques Centre, Bartlett Street, encompasses 20 dealers and 50 showcases displaying furniture, silver, antique jewelry, paintings, toys, military items, and collectibles.

Walcot Reclamation, 108 Walcot St. (tel. 01225/444404; www.walcot.com), is Bath's salvage yard. This sprawling and appealingly dusty storeroom of 19th-century architectural remnants is set .5km (a quarter mile) northeast of the town center. Its 1,858-sq.-m (20,000-sq.-ft.) warehouse offers pieces from demolished homes, schools, hospitals, and factories throughout south England. Mantelpieces, panels, columns, and architectural ornaments are departmentalized into historical eras. Items range from a complete, dismantled 1937 Georgian library crafted from Honduran mahogany to objects costing around £10 each. Anything can be shipped by a battery of artisans who are trained in adapting antique fittings for modern homes.

Near Bath Abbey, the Beaux Arts Gallery, 12-13 York St. (tel. 01225/464850; www.beauxartsbath.co.uk), is the largest and most important gallery of contemporary art in Bath, specializing in well-known British artists including Ray Richardson, John Bellany, and Nicola Bealing. Closely linked to the London art scene, the gallery occupies a pair of interconnected, stone-fronted Georgian houses. Its half-dozen showrooms exhibit objects beginning at £30.

The very upscale Rossiter's, 38-41 Broad St. (tel. 01225/462227; www.rossitersofbath.com), sells very traditional English tableware and home decor items. They'll ship anywhere in the world. Look especially for the display of Moorcraft ginger jars, vases, and clocks, as well as the Floris perfumes.

Bath Nightlife

To gain a very different perspective of Bath, you may want to take the Bizarre Bath Walking Tour (tel. 01225/335124; www.bizarrebath.co.uk), a 1 1/2-hour improvisational tour of the streets during which the tour guides pull pranks, tell jokes, and behave in a humorously annoying manner toward tourgoers and unsuspecting residents. The tour runs nightly at 8pm from Easter to October, no reservations necessary; just show up, ready for anything, at the Huntsman Inn at North Parade Passage. Cost is £8 for adults, £5 for students and children.

After your walk, you may need a drink or want to check out the local club and music scene. At the Bell, 103 Walcot St. (tel. 01225/460426; www.walcotstreet.com), music ranges from jazz and country to reggae and blues on Monday and Wednesday nights and Sunday at lunch and dinner. On music nights, the band performs in the center of the long, narrow 400-year-old room.