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If you're looking for old-school, burn-your-mouth, authentic Sichuan food, this is the place. This perpetually crowded restaurant has the plainest of décor and sometimes surly service, but it's the quality of the food that brings in the customers. The spicy shui zhu yu (fish stew), which comes with slices of tender fish floating atop bean sprouts in a hot oil, is on virtually every table. The mapo doufu (tofu in chili sauce) is an intense mix of silky and spicy. The incredibly addictive lazi ji combines bits of fried chicken mixed into a huge plate of chili. The mouth-numbing flavor of the huajiao peppercorn, which gives Sichuan food its distinctive kick, is present in almost every dish. The restaurant is located at the headquarters of the Sichuan provincial government's representative office, so its reputation (and authenticity) is spoken for. Reservations aren't accepted, so it's best to come before 6pm or after 8 pm. Otherwise, be prepared to wait 30 to 45 minutes.