Things To Do in Bergen

Bergen Attractions

The best way to begin is to take a stroll around Bryggen. This row of Hanseatic timbered houses, rebuilt along the waterfront after a disastrous fire in 1702, is what remains of medieval Bergen. The northern half burned to the ground in 1955. Bryggen has been incorporated into UNESCO's World Heritage List as one of the most significant cultural and historical re-creations of a medieval settlement, skillfully blending with the surroundings of modern Bergen. It's a center for arts and crafts, where painters, weavers, and craftspeople have their workshops, some of which are open to the public.

In Nearby Lysøen -- To reach the island of Lysøen, 26km (16 miles) south of Bergen, drive or take a bus (from Platform 20 at the Bergen bus station, marked FANA-OS-MILDE) to Sørestraumen on Rd. 553. Take the Ole Bull ferry across the channel from Sørestraumen, Buena Kai. The round-trip fare is NOK50 ($10/£5) for adults, NOK29 ($5.80/£2.90) for children. When the museum and villa are open, ferry schedules coincide with the site's hours, and boats depart for the mainland at hourly intervals. The last boat leaves a few minutes after the museum closes.

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Bergen Shopping

Shoppers who live outside Scandinavia and spend more than NOK310 ($62/£31) in a tax-free tourist shop can receive a refund up to 18.5% of the purchase price when they leave Norway.

Bargain hunters head to the Fish Market (Fisketorget). Many local handicrafts from the western fjord district, including rugs and handmade tablecloths, are displayed here. This is also one of the few places in Norway where bargaining is welcomed. The market keeps no set hours, but it is best visited between June and August daily, 7am to 7pm, and September to May, Monday to Saturday, 7am to 4pm. Take bus no. 1, 5, or 9.

Hours -- Stores are generally open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm (until 8pm Thurs and sometimes Fri), Saturday 9am to 4pm. Shopping centers outside the city are open Monday to Friday 10am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 6pm. Some food stores stay open until 8pm Monday to Friday and 6pm on Saturday.

Handicrafts -- In and around Bryggen Brukskunst, the restored Old Town near the wharf, many craftspeople have taken over old houses and ply ancient Norwegian trades. Crafts boutiques often display Bergen souvenirs, many based on designs 300 to 1,500 years old. For example, we purchased a reproduction of a Romanesque-style cruciform pilgrim's badge. Other attractive items are likely to include sheepskin-lined booties and exquisitely styled hand-woven wool dresses.

Shopping Tour -- Norway has a centuries-old tradition of crafts, which undoubtedly developed to help people pass the time during the cold, dark winters when farm families were more or less housebound for months. Some of the major crafts were woodcarving, weaving, and embroidery, and these skills live on today at many local artist and crafts centers. Some of the best areas include Hardanger (around the Hardangerfjord, near Bergen), Song (just north of the Sognefjord, also near Bergen), and Telemark (the district around Skien, within a day's drive from Oslo). For a true behind-the scenes look at Norway, Five Stars of Scandinavia, 2914 Yelm Hwy. SE, #24, Olympia, WA 98501 (tel. 800/722-4126; www.5stars-of-scandinavia.com), will set up a self-guided tour for you, factoring in everything they know about local artisans.

Bergen Nightlife

The Brown Scene -- What does a Norwegian mean when he refers to a "brown" nightclub? It's a raucous, boozy, semisleazy joint where off-duty prostitutes, bikers, harborfront riffraff, slumming suburbanites, business travelers on short-term leaves from their spouses, and all manner of fringe society get together for a rollicking and booze-soaked good time. Don't say you haven't been warned.

Films -- Konsertpaleet, Neumannsgate 3 (tel. 55-56-90-83), shows all films in their original versions. The earliest performance is at 11am, the latest at 11pm. Tickets usually cost NOK85 ($17/£8.50).