Things To Do in Bled and Bohinj

Allow time to dally around both of the lakes, and definitely take to the waters if you're here in summer. Both lakes are starting points for rewarding hikes -- either right around the lakes themselves or into the valleys and gorges nearby. It may be a serious splurge but consider reserving a scenic flight over the lakes; contact Alpski Letalski Center in Lesce (tel. 04/532-0100; www.alc-lesce.si) to organize a panoramic flight over Bled, Bohinj, and Mount Triglav. Over and above the normal summer chaos, each July sees Bled host Bled Days (Blejski Dnevi), a festival that includes music concerts and ends with fireworks and the spectacular sight of thousands of lit candles floating on the lake. Earlier in the same month, there's a highly regarded festival of classical music (www.festivalbled.com). In August, Bled prepares for a lineup of world music entertainments as part of the Okarina Etno Festival; concerts are inspirational and free.

Bled's pseudo-Gothic St. Martin's Parish Church (Cerkov Svetega Martina) is situated below the castle, overlooking the lake. Consecrated in 1905, it is worth visiting for the intriguing interior frescoes by Slavko Pengov (the same artist responsible for the paintings in Tito's former cinema at Vila Bled); in particular look for the clever rendition of the Last Supper, in which Judas has been depicted as none other than Comrade Lenin!

Five kilometers (3 miles) northeast of Bled, the River Radovna has carved the mile-long Vintgar Gorge, one of Slovenia's great natural attractions. Visitors can experience the spectacle of rushing rapids and gushing waterfalls, which include the 13m (43-ft.) Sum Waterfall, by traversing the bridges and walkways put in place since the end of the 19th century, when the gorge was first opened to the public. To get there, leave Bled via Preserenova cesta, heading toward Podhom (there are plenty of signs), which marks the public entrance; there's a small admission fee. Babji Zob Caves, named for the monstrous-looking "Hag's Tooth" rock formation above them, are some 4km (2 1/2 miles) west of Bled, and require participation in a 3-hour guided tour.