Bij Lieven quickly became a Bruges institution after opening a few years ago. It's inside a former house a few steps away from Markt. With old beamed ceilings and elegant fireplaces still intact, the interior strikes the right contemporary note. There are pale wood floors and fashionably dark walls in the front room; in the next dining room, tall tables and bar-style chairs face the open kitchen. This set-up works remarkably well for single diners, who can chat to the cooks and the waitstaff as they work. The cooking is as stylish as the décor; here's another Flemish chef who is transforming Belgian cooking from homey to modern. Starters might include crab with lettuce, the broccoli-like romanesco, arugula, and creamed cauliflower, or a Thai-inspired salad with tiger shrimp, chicken, and peanut sauce. Main dishes like bouillabaisse or pigeon with rösti potatoes, peas, and garlic are beautifully presented. The desserts, such as passion sorbet with pineapple and white chocolate, make a delicious ending to a thoroughly satisfying experience.