Kok au Vin started out serving only chicken. Good though it may have been, this limited its appeal. Now run by a young team, the bistro has a chic interior—a smart open-plan space with pale wood floors, banquettes, smallish tables and gray chairs, bold pictures on the walls, and an open kitchen to provide extra interest. The menu, also revamped, has tapas-size of oysters or quail with mango chutney and a small selection of starters and mains. Start with a seasonal soup (parsnip in winter) with gravlax or veal tartare with oysters. The main dishes include a catch of the day, a main course, and, yes, chicken, such as coq au vin with pork belly and seasonal vegetables. Desserts might include a chocolate dessert with a crisp outside and molten chocolate inside, served with mango and pistachio ice cream, or a lemon tart that's topped with meringue. The place buzzes and the service is delightful. It's not in the center of town, but it's just a short, pleasant walk over the canal on Ezelstraat.