Things To Do in Budapest

Historic Budapest is smaller than people realize when they first arrive. Since this is an ideal walking city, many attractions are easily reached on foot from the city center or if you would rather save some time, public transport will get you there too. As you stroll from one place to the next, look up at the buildings even if you have to stop a minute. There are so many missed treasures above normal views that go underappreciated by many. Regardless of a building's decay, take into consideration it probably has a long and interesting history associated with it. Many people have commented to me about how fine some of the buildings would be if they were restored, but they forget this city was heavily bombed during World War II. That rubble falling from the facade most likely has a story to tell. Clean and neat buildings are easy to look at, but what historical secrets have they sandblasted away? It is like telling your grandmother you would enjoy looking at her more if she had a facelift.

This city is a grand old dame that has seen plenty and survived the hardships.

Statues, Which Statues?

By now, most people have forgotten that the city was littered with statues to Lenin, Marx, Engels, and the other representations of the Communist times. If you have some recollection of them and are wondering where they have disappeared to, here is your answer. In the aftermath of 1989, they were not wanted any longer being constant reminders of difficult times. A plan was conceived for an outdoor museum, Memento Park, created in 1993 and expanded since then when funds allow.

Besides the 42 statues, you will find a lot of symbolism. As you enter the park, the statues are in three sections, each with a theme. Each section if viewed from above would be symbolic of an eternity symbol; Communism was meant to last all eternity. However, if you are standing at the front gate and follow the path forward, you will see a brick wall ahead of you. Communism ran into a brick wall. I fear that I was under the impression that the dry ugly grounds were from lack of care, but my guide explained this is a metaphor for the ugly realities of Communism.

The new exhibition hall created from an old army barrack has fascinating pictures of the past with English translations. A movie-viewing area continually shows an uncovered authentic training film for spies. It runs 50 minutes. I did not have time to watch it all, but was intrigued enough to return.

Located in the XXII district (extreme Southern Buda) on Balatoni út (tel. 1/424-7500; www.mementopark.hu), the park is a memorial to an era, to despotism, and to times of fear. The tiny museum gift kiosk sells Communist-era memorabilia, such as T-shirts with flamboyantly modern, humorous sayings, medals, and cassettes of Red Army marching songs. The park is open daily from 10am to dusk and admission is 1,500 Ft for adults or 1,000 Ft for students. To get to the park, take either bus no. 7E or 173E from Ferenciek tere to Kelenföldi pályaudvar, the end of the line. Buy round-trip tickets for 420 Ft for the yellow Volán bus for a 10-minute ride to the park; ask the driver where to get off. The Volán bus is not a city bus; passes and transit tickets are not valid. The other options are to take bus 150 from Kosztolányi Dezso tér or take the convenient direct bus service from Deák tér for 3,950 Ft or 2,450 Ft for students (admission ticket to the park included). The timetable varies by season, but the 11am departure remains constant with an additional run at 3pm in July and August. Personally, the guided tour totally changed my opinion and appreciation for the park, so I highly recommend it. Tours on-site for those who come by public transport are 1,200 Ft.

Other statues have replaced those in this park, while others are in spaces not formerly graced with artwork. One statue that just about every tourist sees is The Little Princess, but without a plaque, it is often mistaken for a jester. It sits on the railing on Vigadó tér, a straight shot down to the river from Vörösmarty tér. You will see by her knees that she has been rubbed in admiration and luck for some time. The sculptor is László Marton, who also created the incredible statue of Attila József, the famous Hungarian poet, as he gazes toward the Danube by Parliament. Sculptor Imre Varga created the statue you will find on the tiny Vértanúk tér across from Parliament. He also created one of the pieces in the park. The man on the bridge is Imre Nagy, Hungary's prime minister during the '56 revolution, who tried to build a democratic Hungary by negotiating with the Soviets and gaining Western support. His place on the bridge is a metaphor for being caught in the middle. He was later taken prisoner by the Soviets and executed. Varga is also the artist who created the Weeping Willow in the courtyard of the Great Synagogue. And back again to Vigadó tér, you will find the fairly new Girl with a Dog, a playful statue of a child playing ball with her canine friend, by artist Dávid Raffay. All of these artists are contemporary, still living and working at their craft.

The world of fashion and commercialization has bombarded the capital with a silent invasion. Each week, COMING SOON signs appear on storefront windows promising yet more pieces of globalized fashion, but you can rest assured they're not for the average Hungarian. From designer labels like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, to brand-names like Nike, and stylish secondhand shops, Budapest offers an array of shopping experiences with each passing year trying to outguess the economy.

As is the global trend, megastores are forcing out the small business owner at a rapid rate. Still, buyer beware: quality and value do not always go hand in hand with a hefty or bargain price tag. A number of fashion-driven, retro-loving, or economically suppressed shoppers are still ferreting out the smaller shops where they can claim the prize of a bargain. To add to the mix, secondhand clothing stores have started to pop up like mushrooms after a good rain.

Shopping vocabulary to know:

Nyitva-tartas -- Opening hours.

Nyitva -- Open.

Zarva -- Closed.

Akció -- Sale going on.

% -- Without a number, means there's a sale with multiple discounts.

Vásárló utca is an underground 'street' of shops off Váci utca near Haris köz -- you'll recognize it by the escalator going down to it. I don't recommend you go down there, especially at night. It's easy to get trapped by unsavory types, particularly business ladies who may have brawny friends at the top of the escalator to convince you to use unwanted services.

Folklore -- Travelers seeking folklore objects do not have far to look. The first place to look is the second floor of the Nagyvasarcsarnok (great market) for a wide selection of popular items that include pillowcases, embroidered tablecloths, pottery, porcelain, intricately painted and carved eggs, dolls, dresses, skirts, and sheepskin vests. The vendors have become jaded with tourists, so don't bargain as much as they used to. Antiques shops, running along Falk Miksa utca in downtown Budapest, feature a broad selection of vintage furniture, ceramics, carpets, jewelry, and accessories, but over the years, it has become more expensive with less bargaining going on for tourists.

Transylvania, once part of Hungary before the Trianon Treaty after World War I, still comprises mostly ethnic Hungarians amongst the population. Women come to Budapest with bags full of handmade craftwork selling their goods to Hungarians and tourists alike. Their prices are generally quite reasonable, and bargaining is customary. Keep your eyes open for these vendors, who sell on the street or in the metro plazas -- they are unmistakable in their characteristic black boots and dark-red skirts, with red or white kerchiefs tied around their heads. If they spot the police, they may disappear fast, but often return when the coast is clear again.

Porcelain -- A popular Hungarian item is porcelain, particularly from the country's two best-known producers, Herend and Zsolnay. Although both brands are available in the West, you'll find a better selection, but not lower prices, in Hungary. Collectors have told me they now have to hunt with a keen eye for substantial bargains, more so than in the past. The Zsolnay factory has declared bankruptcy, so the government had to take receivership. Although they are trying to sell it, it is unclear how this will change demand or availability.

Hungarian Food -- Typical Hungarian foods make great gifts. Hungarian salami is world famous. Connoisseurs generally agree that Pick Salami, produced in the southeastern city of Szeged, is the best brand. Herz Salami, produced locally in Budapest, is also a very popular product (though not as popular as Pick). You should be aware that some people have reported difficulty in clearing U.S. Customs with salami; bring it home at your own risk. Another typical Hungarian food product is chestnut paste (gesztenye püré), available in a tin or block wrapped in foil; it's used primarily as a pastry filling but can also top desserts and ice cream. Paprika paste (pirosarany) is another product that's tough to find outside Hungary. It usually comes in a bright-red tube. Three types are available: hot (csípos), deli-style (csemege), and sweet (édes). Powdered paprika also comes in the same three varieties as the paste. All of these items can be purchased at grocery stores (élelmiszer), delicatessens (csemege), and usually any convenience store. In the great market, you will find the powdered version in little decorated cloth bags, making it ready for gift giving. If spice is your thing, saffron is very cheap. Stock up and thrill others with the yellow powder. Another product to look for is Szamos-brand marzipan. Szamos Confectioners, a recently reestablished family business that was originally founded in 1935, is also said to make the best ice cream in the country. They're based in Szentendre, with a shop in Budapest at V. Párisi u. 3 (tel. 1/317-3643).

Wines -- Illustrious local traditional wines and spirits have matured. The sweet white Tokaji Aszú, Tokaji Eszenzia, and Tokaji Szamorodni, and the mouth-tingling Egri Bikavér, Villányi Cuveé, Szekszárdi Bikavér, and Kékfrankos are the most representative. The infamous palinka is a strong fruit brandy that is a Hungarian treasure. Unless you indulge in an expensive brand, you may get a bottle that seems to have had the fruit waved over the top without ever really touching the drink. If someone offers you schnapps, you are getting palinka; chances are it is homemade and usually much better than the less-expensive commercial brands. Visit the House of Palinka to learn about the different types and qualities. Every European culture has its herbal digestive drink that they swear will cure what ails you. For the Germans it is Jagermeister; for Hungarians, it is the black spirit made of 40 different herbs -- Unicum -- the trademark product of Zwack. It is a bitter liqueur and an acquired taste. In the last couple of years, they tried their hand at a carbonated version called Unicum Next to lure the youth market; it has been successful.

Markets -- If you love markets, you're in for a treat. There are numerous markets here: flea markets (használtáru piac), filled not only with every conceivable kind of junk and the occasional relic of communism, but also with great quantities of mostly low-quality new items like clothing and shoes; and food markets (vásárcsarnok, csarnok, or piac), which sell row after row of succulent, but limited varieties of fruits and vegetables, much of it freshly picked and driven in from the surrounding countryside.

The Shopping Scene

Main Shopping Streets -- The hub of the tourist-packed capital is the first pedestrian shopping street in Budapest, Váci utca. It runs from the stately Vörösmarty tér in the center of Pest, across Kossuth Lajos utca, all the way to Vámház körút. This area is for both Hungarian elite and travelers alike to stroll. Váci utca as well as the bisecting pedestrian streets and courtyards are filled with boutiques and shops packed with mostly upscale items waiting to be given a new home. Váci utca was formerly known throughout the country as the street for good bookshops. Sadly, only one remains, but don't fret. We have other bookstore recommendations to follow that will satisfy your needs. The street is now largely occupied by Euro-fashion chain stores that flood every major city with their European-style prices. There are an overwhelming number of folklore/souvenir shops, which might be good for window-shopping, but unless we have recommended them below, you may be paying more than you should for that souvenir. This area is home to many cafes and bars, but it, like Castle Hill, is notorious for tourist traps.

Another popular shopping area for travelers is the Castle District in Buda, with its abundance of overpriced folk-art boutiques and art galleries. This is where tour buses drop off travelers with minimal time to shop, thus forcing them into impulsive buying.

Most Hungarians like to browse or people-watch in these two neighborhoods, but tend to do their serious shopping elsewhere. One of the favorite shopping streets is Pest's Outer Ring (Nagykörút), which extends into West End Center, a shopping mall located just behind the Nyugati Railway Station. Another bustling shopping street is Pest's Kossuth Lajos utca, off the Erzsébet Bridge, and its continuation, Rákóczi út, which extends all the way out to Keleti Railway Station. Király utca has gentrified and is becoming known for its intimate home decor boutiques. Andrássy út, from Deák tér to Oktogon, is an example of contradiction. There are now over a dozen empty storefronts at any given time, yet the elite designer shops still want to make their mark here. No bargains to be found, but you can drool over the gurus of fashion like Emporio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, and Fidji Couture, which features Dior, Versace, and Lanvin. For youthful fashion, the likes of Nike and Adidas are represented here also. Andrássy út is also where evenings come alive, with numerous cafes and restaurants. If you shop until you drop, Liszt Ferenc tér and Nagymezo utca, both run off Andrássy út and are intermingled with a plethora of cafes and restaurants. For more purchase power, check out the revitalized Ráday utca with its offering of a few tiny shops with unique ceramic, glass, and other bric-a-brac, which may be exactly what you are missing for your souvenir list. You can often pay by credit card in the most popular shopping areas.

Hours -- This is the general rule: Stores are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm and Saturday from 10am to 2pm. Otherwise, when a store waivers from the rule, I have their hours in the listing. The high-end designer stores are open Saturdays until 6pm. Most independent shops are closed on Sunday, except for those on Váci utca. Shopping malls are open on weekends, sometimes as late as 9pm, but this is always subject to economic changes.

Taxes & Refunds -- If you reside outside of the European Union, refunds on the 25% value-added tax (VAT), which is built into all prices, are available for most consumer goods purchases of more than 45,000 Ft purchased in one store, in one day (look for stores with the "Tax-Free" logo in the window.) The refund process, however, is elaborate and confusing. In most shops, the salesperson has to provide you with the necessary documents: the store receipt, a separate receipt indicating the VAT amount on your purchase, the VAT reclaims form, and the mailing envelope. The salesperson should also be able to help you fill out the paperwork. Use a separate claim form for each applicable purchase. If you are departing Hungary by plane, you can collect your refund at Magyar Pénzváltó in Ferihegy Airport 1 or OTP Bank at Ferihegy Airport 2. You have to do this right after checking in but before you pass security control. Otherwise, hold on to the full packet until you leave Hungary and get your forms certified by Customs when you land. Then, mail in your envelope and wait forever for your refund. Two wrinkles: you must get your forms certified by Customs within 90 days of the purchase showing that it is leaving the country; and you must mail in your forms within 183 days of the date of export certification on the refund claim form. I have never found this to offer any significant savings after they deduct the service charge for the transaction. Unless you are making grandiose purchases, you may want to save your time and energy for other things. For further information, contact Global Refund (Innova-Invest Pénzügyi Rt.) at IV. Ferenciek tere 10, 1053 Budapest (tel. 1/411-0157; fax 1/411-0159; www.globalrefund.com).

Shipping & Customs -- You can ship a box to yourself from any post office, but the rules on packing boxes are as strict as they are arcane. The Hungarian postal authorities prefer that you use one of their official shipping boxes, for sale at all post offices. They're quite flimsy, however, and have been known to break open in transit, probably before leaving the city. The Hungarian post does not have a five-star rating for service, but they do rank four stars for misappropriating packages coming and going from the country.

Very few shops will organize shipping for you. Exceptions to this rule include most Herend and Zsolnay porcelain shops, Ajka crystal shops, and certain art galleries, which employ the services of a packing-and-shipping company, Touristpost. Touristpost offers three kinds of delivery: express, air mail, and surface. The service is not available directly to the public, but functions only through participating contracted shops. You need to consider whether the cost of shipping will still save you money by purchasing your fine porcelain and crystal in Hungary than at home.

Hungarian customs regulations do not limit the export of noncommercial quantities of most goods, except collectibles. However, the export of some perishable food is regulated, but allowed if acceptable to the receiving country. The limit on wine and spirits is not limited at export if shipped, but may be limited by Customs at your destination. Shipping wine can be prohibitively expensive.

Budapest is definitely a cosmopolitan city with a tremendous variety of cultural events all throughout the year. There is no event that is unaffordable to the average tourist if you don't have your heart set on a particular section of a theater, but even then, seats are bargains as compared to New York, San Francisco, or London. At the opera house, one of Europe's finest, tickets generally range from 600 Ft for the nosebleed balcony to 16,000 Ft for the ultra-luxurious royal box once used by the Habsburgs, depending on the performance. Almost all the city's theaters and concert halls, with the exception of those hosting internationally touring rock groups, offer tickets within an affordable 2,000 Ft to 10,000 Ft range. Of course, higher-priced seats are available at the same venue if you want a closer view. In some cases, it is wise to choose performances based on the venue. For example, you may not particularly be a fan of ballet, but if that is all that is offered during your stay, you may want to consider less expensive tickets just to see the opera house up close and personal. You won't regret it: its splendor is superlative and it can be better appreciated with any performance than just a tour.

The opera, ballet, and theater seasons run from September through May with some sporadic events in June, but most theaters and halls also host performances during the summer festivals. Bear in mind that none of them are air-conditioned and heat rises. If you are sitting in a balcony on a hot evening, you may be miserable. A number of the better-known churches and stunning halls offer concerts exclusively in the summer. While classical music is ingrained into the culture in Budapest, the country, jazz, blues, rock, disco, and every other variation you left at home is here also. Stylish and unique new clubs and bars open and close regularly. The bar and club scene starts late and lasts until morning, sometimes until the last patron leaves. Only the bars in residential areas have strict closing times. Restaurants and bars in these areas in the summer have to bring in their tables at 10pm by district law in consideration of the neighbors. So whether you have dancing feet or a taste for opera, whatever your entertainment preference, Budapest nights offer plenty to choose from.

Program Listings -- For the most up-to-date information, go to www.jegymester.hu and click on the English link. This site includes information for the opera house as well as the major theaters in the city. A complete schedule of mainstream performing arts is found in the free bimonthly Koncert Kalendárium, available at any of the Tourinform offices, or you can check it online at www.koncertkalendarium.hu; there is a link for English. Funzine also has events calendars; the weekly Budapest Times includes cultural listings. Where, a free monthly tourist booklet, highlights different topics each month, but includes some entertainment listings. Our latest addition for the city scene is Time Out, an internationally known magazine that focuses on a particular city's culture and entertainment scene in greater depth. Pick up a free copy at Tourinform offices or pay 450 Ft at newsstands. All of the publications mentioned above are in English.

Ticket Offices -- If you are looking for the easy way out, you can look at ticket availability online for purchasing opera, ballet, theater, or concert tickets for a number of different venues at www.jegymester.hu. It shows how many tickets are available with a seating chart to help you decide how much you want to spend for what seat. Its secure server allows you to make your purchase online. You can also prepurchase special museum exhibitions on this site, but it may require you to print an e-ticket. If you don't have Internet access, you can save time by going to the Cultur-Comfort Ticket Office (Cultur-Comfort Központi Jegyiroda), VI. Paulay Ede u. 31 (tel. 1/322-0000). The office is open Monday through Friday 9am to 6pm. It is easier than going to the individual box offices. They sell tickets to just about everything, from theater and operettas to sports events and rock concerts. Schedules are posted for a variety of choices and they will show you a seating chart. If none of the cashiers speaks English, find a helpful customer who can translate for you. For last-minute tickets or performances that are looking like they are sold out, try the venue box office for no-show tickets about 30 minutes before the performance. For opera and ballet, go to the Hungarian State Opera Ticket Office (Magyar Állami Opera Jegyiroda), VI. Andrássy út 22 (tel. 1/353-0170), open Monday through Friday 11am to 5pm. Try Concert & Media, XI. Ülloi út 11-13 (tel. 1/455-9000; www.jegyelado.hu), for classical performances as well as pop, jazz, and rock concerts. For just about everything from rock and jazz concerts to opera, ballet performances, and theater tickets, try Ticket Express, VI. Andrássy út 18 (tel. 30/303-0999 mobile phone only; www.tex.hu), open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm. You do have the option to buy online and print your own tickets if you have access to a printer.

Note: For cheaper tickets, look online at one of the sites above and then try going to the actual box office of the venue. Some of the ticket agencies only carry the higher-end price range of tickets. You may also find that agencies charge a commission (usually about 4% or higher), especially for hit shows or international performers.

Bistros: For the Sophisticated Night Owl

Hopefully, you will not have difficulty finding a watering hole at 2am, with many pubs and clubs open until, yawn, 5am. However, district by district, they are trying to change the laws forcing restaurants, pubs, and bars to close early, meaning by 10pm, to control "happy" customers' noise as they leave the establishments. The lesser popular districts have been successful, but it may be a domino effect in the future. With that in mind, if you're looking for a late-night cocktail but want to avoid the typical bar and club scene, Paris, Texas on the popular Ráday utca, is a pleasant place to sit down and talk or eat after a concert, but their food comes from the Pink Cadillac. For a summer alternative check out Funzine for the kerts or garden pubs that are currently open.

Casinos

Budapest has a couple dozen respectable casinos. Many are located in luxury hotels: Las Vegas Casino, in the Atrium Hyatt Hotel, V. Roosevelt tér 2 (tel. 1/317-6022; www.lasvegascasino.hu); and Orfeum Casino, in the Hotel Béke Radisson, VI. Teréz krt. 43 (tel. 1/301-1600). Formal dress is required. Other popular casinos include: Grand Casino Budapest, V. Deák Ferenc u. 13 (tel. 1/483-0170), Tropicana Casino, V. Vigadó u. 2 (tel. 1/327-7250; www.tropicanacasino.hu), and the most elegant Várkert Casino on the Danube side, Ybl Miklós tér 9 (tel. 1/202-4244; www.varkert.hu). There are a number of smaller independent casinos around the city, but we do not recommend patronizing them.

Movies

There is no longer a wide selection of movie theaters showing movies in their original language. Movies labeled szinkronizált, m.b., or magyarul beszél mean that the movie has been dubbed into Hungarian; feliratos means subtitled. Tickets cost around 1,500 Ft to 2,100 Ft. MOM Park, XII. Alkotás u. 53 (tel. 1/487-5500), multiplex provides the option of seeing movies in their original language even if the movie itself was dubbed, but this is one of the more expensive theaters. Check listings at www.palacecinemas.hu. To reach MOM Park, take tram no. 61 from Moszkva tér to Csörsz u.

The art cinemas where English-language movies are only sometimes found are Corvin, VIII. köz 1 (tel. 1/459-5050; tram nos. 4 or 6 to Ferenc krt.); Európa, VII. Rákóczi út 82 (tel. 1/322-5419; no. 7 bus to Berzsenyi u.); Hunnia, VII. Erzsébet krt. 26 (tel. 1/322-3471; tram nos. 4 or 6 to Wesselényi u.); Muvész, VI. Teréz krt. 30 (tel. 1/332-6726; tram nos. 4 or 6 to Oktogon); Puskin, V. Kossuth L. u. 18 (tel. 1/429-6080; metro to Astoria, Red line); and Uránia, VIII. Rákócxi út 2 (tel. 1/318-8955; metro to Blaha Lujza tér, Red line).

Going to a movie at one of the cinemas above can be a cultural experience in itself. Some theaters are smaller than most people's living rooms. Seats are assigned in all of the theaters. Jobb means right and Bal means left. First, find the sign to see if that theater uses right and left as you face the seats or as you are facing the stage; it is not a uniform custom. Then find your row number Sor, and finally your numbered "chair" Szék. If you do not sit in your assigned seat, you may find an upset Hungarian hovering over you telling you that the seat is theirs. As a throwback to earlier times, you will find a half-empty theater with people insisting they have to sit in their assigned seat when better seats are freely available. If popcorn is sold in the theater, don't expect any butter or other topping. As much as the Hungarian diet is made up of fats, they don't use any for their movie munchies.