Buffalo, NY Attractions

Guided Tours -- With so much history and so many architectural landmarks, it only makes sense to take advantage of Buffalo's terrific guided tours, which will give you a deeper understanding of the city's rich heritage. Buffalo Tours, 617 Main St. (tel. 716/852-3300; www.buffalotours.org), runs tours focusing on Millionaire's Row, the waterfront revival, grain elevators, the Olmsted-designed Parkside neighborhood, among many others. Run by a local comedian and an amateur historian, Forgotten Buffalo (tel. 716/833-5211; www.forgottenbuffalo.com) loads people on a bus and shows them the best of old-school Buffalo. We're talking historic taverns, steel mills, gin mills, gritty neighborhoods, more watering holes, and other nostalgia-laden landmarks. Did we forget to mention the drinking joints?

Righteous Babe -- Singer-songwriter and Nickel City native Ani DiFranco had long admired the former Asbury Delaware Methodist Church, a striking but rapidly deteriorating Gothic Revival building in downtown Buffalo. Before the city could follow through on its plans to demolish it, DiFranco's recording company -- Righteous Babe Records -- bought the building in 2003. $10 million in renovations later, the former church has been transformed into Babeville, 341 Delaware Ave. (tel. 716/852-3835; www.babevillebuffalo.com), a multi-use facility housing a state-of-the-art performance hall, a live-music basement club, the offices of Righteous Babe, and the Hallwalls Contemporary Arts Center. Visit the website for information about shows and events.

Especially For Kids

Buffalo and its surrounding areas have more than a few destinations to help families pass the time on rainy -- and sunny -- days. The latest addition to the popular Buffalo Zoo, 300 Parkside Ave. (tel. 716/837-3900; www.buffalozoo.org), is the M&T Bank Rainforest Falls. Opened in 2008, this enclosed, climate-controlled facility simulates a tropical forest. There are a cascading waterfall, giant anteaters, vampire bats, ocelots, capybaras, armadillos, and, of course, monkeys. At Explore and More Children's Museum, 300 Gleed Ave., East Aurora (tel. 716/655-5131; www.exploreandmore.org), kids up to 10 are encouraged to learn through interactive play. Infants can climb and explore, while the older tots can construct their own houses, learn about food, and get to know other cultures. Martin's Fantasy Island, 2400 Grand Island Blvd., Grand Island (tel. 716/773-7591; www.martinsfantasyisland.com), has 80 acres with more than 100 rides. Kids love the Silver Comet roller coaster, petting zoo, and water slides.

Buffalo, NY Shopping

For antiques and other home furnishings, head to Hertel Avenue in North Park, where you'll find an ethnically diverse neighborhood and such shops as Buffalo Wholesale Antiques, 1539 Hertel Ave. (tel. 716/832-4231), and the Antique Lamp Co., 1213 Hertel Ave. (tel. 716/871-0508; www.antiquelampco.com). Just 12 miles east of Buffalo, Clarence Hollow bills itself as the "Antiques Capital of Western New York." Check out the Antique World Flea Market and Co-ops, 1095 Main St., Clarence (tel. 716/759-8483; www.antiqueworldmarket.com), with 10 buildings of collectibles.

Hip Elmwood Village was recently voted one of the best neighborhoods in the country, and it's no wonder: The tree-lined streets are packed with funky boutiques, galleries, bistros, and specialty shops, all housed in a mix of Georgian, Italianate, Queen Anne, Colonial Revival, and other architectural styles. Grab a massive cupcake at Delish, 802 Elmwood Ave., then scour the eclectic selection of gifts at Everything Elmwood, 740 Elmwood Ave. (tel. 716/883-0607), and edgy women's wear at Sweet & Dirty, 585 Potomac Ave. (tel. 716/887-8311).

An essential Buffalo stop for book lovers is the wonderful Talking Leaves Books, with two locations: 51 Elmwood Ave. (tel. 716/884-9524) and 3158 Main St. (tel. 716/837-8554).

Buffalo, NY Nightlife

Performing Arts

Shea's Performing Arts Center, 646 Main St. (tel. 716/847-1410), is a gorgeous former movie palace dating from 1926 and built in the style of a European opera house. It now hosts touring shows, concerts, opera, and dance performances. The Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra performs at the architecturally and acoustically impressive Kleinhans Music Hall, 1 Symphony Circle (tel. 800/318-9404), most every week from mid-September to the end of July. The Studio Arena, 710 Main St. (tel. 800/77-STAGE), is one of the finest regional theaters in the country, with several productions each season (Sept-May). The Paul Robeson Theatre, 350 Masten Ave., (tel. 716/362-0230), showcases works of African-American playwrights, directors, and actors, while the Irish Classical Theater Company at the Andrews Theater, 625 Main St. (tel. 716/853-ICTC), performs classic and modern works in the round. Both seasons run September through June.

Nightclubs & Live Music

Downtown on Chippewa Street, you'll find loud bars pouring local brew Genesee and others. Try the down-home Big Shotz, 45 W. Chippewa St. (tel. 716/852-7230), or the more upscale La Luna, 52 W. Chippewa St. (tel. 716/855-1292). Around the corner, you can party at the Skybar, on the roof of D'Arcy McGees, 257 Franklin St. (tel. 716-853-3600). For the well-dressed, over-25 crowd, try Crocodile Bar, 88 W. Chippewa St. (tel. 716/853-CROC), which offers an extensive martini menu. Allen Street is a bit quieter, but you can also find some good bars like Colter Bay, at Delaware and Allen (tel. 716/882-1330). This is also where you'll find Buffalo's gay scene, in bars like Cathode Ray, 26 Allen St. (tel. 716/884-3615). Another good bet for gays: Club Marcella, 622 Main St. (tel. 716/847-6850), which features drag shows and underwear contests, along with DJs spinning tunes 'til the wee hours.

For live music, check out the Tralf Music Hall, 622 Main St. (tel. 716/852-2860), which hosts a wide assortment of local and (inter-)national acts, tending toward classic and indie rock, with some jazz and experimental music thrown in. They also have touring theater shows, like Shear Madness, and the occasional comedy performance. On a smaller scale, Nietzsche's, 248 Allen St. (tel. 716/886-8539), offers Celtic sessions, songwriter showcases, local bands, and comedy. The Colored Musicians Club (yes, you read that right) at 145 Broadway (tel. 716/855-9383) has hosted countless jazz greats -- such as Dizzy Gillespie and Billie Holiday -- in its 80-odd years, and still offers jazz regularly. A good bet for blues is the Lafayette Tap Room, 391 Washington St. (tel. 716/854-2466), where a variety of local and national acts grace the stage.