Things To Do in Busan

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Busan Shopping

There is no shortage of shopping to be done in Busan. Be it haggling with old ladies in the open-air markets or browsing the high-end department stores, there are ample opportunities for you to part with your won.

Best Shopping Areas

For bargain hunting and browsing in outdoor markets, the largest shijang (traditional market) is Gukje Market, which is also close to the Jagalchi Market. Smaller open-air marketplaces can be found in most neighborhoods in the city.

There are plenty of fashions on display, but most items are made for petite women, so it may be difficult to find larger sizes. If that's what you need, head for the Choryang Arcade for Foreigners (usually called "Texas Street" or "Foreigners Street" by locals) in Dong-gu, where you may find a larger variety of sizes.

For more stylish fashions, try the boutiques and stalls in the PNU Area of Dongnae, as well as the areas around Kyungsung and Pukyong universities, catering to the college-age crowd. In the college areas are "shopping town" and "beauty town," where you can find the latest clothes, accessories, and cosmetics for fashionistas. A tight group of hip clothing stores is in Gwangbok-dong. The cluster of Nampo-dong shops and restaurants and the popular night market draws a crowd. There are more shops available in Seomyeon as well. The streets and alleys near the cafes on Gwangalli Beach also have shops that attract the younger crowd.

For upscale shopping, Busan's department stores are chock-full of several floors of everything from designer handbags to housewares. Major stores like Lotte and Shinsegae (which made the Guinness Book of World Records for being the largest department store in the world) can be found in Centum City and Busanjin (in the Seomyeon area). Mega-shopping malls, like Migliore and the Judies Taehwa in Seomyeon or the SfunZ in Haeundae, also have several floors of boutique shops all in one multistoried building or have underground shopping areas. There are some in Nampo-dong and Sasang as well. Duty-free shops can be found near major transportation (at the airport and the ferry terminal) or in luxury hotels, like the Lotte in Busanjin or the Paradise in Haeundae. Also, Rodeo Street in Haeundae is an area dedicated to upscale shops.

Large-scale box marts, like E-Mart, can also be found in major sections of town like Haeundae and Busanjin.

In general, you can find vendors who speak English at hotel arcades, department stores, souvenir and duty-free shops, and on Foreigners' Street. Otherwise, be ready to use a lot of sign language and gesturing to get your point across.

Bookstores

Although there are many more smaller bookstores around the city, you'll find a better selection of English-language books and publications at those listed here. Kyobo Mungo, 536-3 Bujeon-dongjin-gu (tel. 051/806-3501), located on the first floor of the Gyobo Life Insurance building, also has a good CD shop, Hot Tracks, inside. Also in Busanjin are the Dongbo Bookstore, 165-5 Bujeon 2-dongjin-gu (tel. 051/803-8004), and the Yeong-gwang Bookstore, Bujeon 1-dongjin-gu (tel. 051/816-9500), which has a good selection of English-language magazines and staff who speak pretty good English. In Jung-gu, the Munwudang, 3, 4-ga, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu (tel. 051/245-5555), has a small English-language section, and the Nampo Mungo, 2-ga, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu (tel. 051/245-8911), on the first two floors of the Horim building, has some English books.

Contemporary Art & Galleries

Although its claim as South Korea's Montmartre is overstated, the "Art Street" inside the Gukje Underground Shopping Center is a good place to get some insight into Busan's art scene. Take subway line 1 to Jagalchi (exit 7) and walk about 5 minutes. There are also a handful of galleries that exhibit and sell works by contemporary Korean artists in Haeundae, Nampo-dong, and Gwangalli.

One of my favorite places, in the Haeundae area, is Arbazaar, 1467-2 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu (tel. 051/704-0151; located right off the Sangsan subway station), which specializes in art by contemporary South Korean artists.

Also, if you happen to be in the Gwangalli area at night, don't miss the Busan New Media Art Museum, 148-15 Namcheon 2(i)-dong (tel. 051/622-4251; http://badavit.suyeong.kr). The outdoor works by such international artists as Jenny Holzer, Jean-Pierre Ratnaud, and Korea's own video artist, Paik Nam-June, span the shores of Gwangalli beach. Take subway line 3 to Gwang-an Station (exit 5) or Geumnyeonsan (exit 5) Station. Buses 20, 38, 49-1, 51, 51-1, 62, 83, 83-1, 108-1, 131, and 155 stop at the museum.

Department Stores

Like any South Korean city worth its salt, Busan has several multistoried department stores that sell everything from housewares to groceries and high-end fashions. If you need a break from shopping, you can go to the basement or top floors for your choice of upscale or down-home food to fuel up.

Your best bet will be to go to Centum City (subway line 2 to Centum City Station), where the entrance to both the Lotte (tel. 051/730-2500) and the 18-floor Shinsegae department stores are easily accessible from the subway. They're both open from 10:30am to 10pm daily.

The largest one is the Lotte Department Store (tel. 051/810-2500) attached to the Lotte hotel in Seomyeon. Eleven stories high, the megacomplex has everything from clothes to cosmetics to sporting goods and jewelry. The ninth floor is reserved for restaurants and the top two floors are the Lotte Cinema. Groceries and Korean-style fast food are available on the first basement floor, with a cafe and sports center underneath. Parking is available on basement floors three to five, with exclusive parking just for women. Take subway line 1 or 2 to Seomyeon (exit 3, 5, or 7). The second basement level of the department store is connected to the subway. They're open daily from 10:30am to 8pm.

There is also another location in Dongnae (tel. 051/605-2500). Take subway line 1 to Myeongnyun-dong (exit 1) and walk about 5 minutes.

Slightly smaller (only nine floors) is the Hyundai Department Store (tel. 051/667-2233), located right in front of the Beomil-dong subway station, near Busanjin Market. It's arranged more like Western-style department stores, with cosmetics and clothing on the bottom floors and housewares and electronics on the seventh floor. Restaurants are on the eighth floor, with cheaper eateries on the second basement floor. The top floor has a health spa, golf center, and swimming pool. Some parking is available on the third basement floor. Open daily 10:30am to 8pm, the store is closed one Monday a month. Take subway line 1 to the Beomil-dong Station (exit 5 or 7). The second basement floor of the store connects to the subway.

Discount Megastores

In the past several years, large-scale discount stores have become ubiquitous throughout the country. Most conspicuous are the bright yellow and black E-Marts, which have several locations in the city. The easiest to get to is the Haeundae E-Mart, 1767 Gungil 1-dong, Haeundae-gu; take the subway line 2 to Jung-dong Station and take exit 7 or 9. They're open daily from 10am to midnight, but closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok.

Home Plus (tel. 051/532-2080) also has several locations in Busan. There is one in Haeundae, 1406-2 Haeundae-gu 1-dong. Take subway line 2 to Dongbaek Station (exit 1) and walk about 3 minutes. They're open daily from 10am to midnight. The Home Plus in Seomyeon is off of subway line 2, Buam Station (exit 4). It's about a 5-minute walk toward Dang-gam-dong and it's open 10am to 11pm daily.

Fashion

There is no shortage of clothing stores in Busan. For high-end designer fashions, you can shop the hotel arcades and departments stores. The best for window shopping are the shopping arcades found in various neighborhoods.

The younger crowds are drawn to the area around Busan National University (PNU) in Dongnae, where you'll find a bunch of cute boutiques with the latest fashions, interspersed with restaurants and cafes. A touch smaller, but just as fun and crowded, are the areas around Kyungsung University and Pukyong National University.

For serious shopping, you can go to the mega-shopping malls, fashioned after Seoul's Dongdaemun Market. These super-sized buildings house dozens of wholesale clothing stores vying for your business. Some of them even have movie theaters, bookstores, restaurants, and arcades. One of the most popular for discovering young designers is Migliore, 668-1 Jeunpo 1-dong, Jin-gu (tel. 051/922-0001 or 5), located in Seomyeon. Open daily 11am to 11:40pm, it's closed the first and third Mondays of the month. Take subway line 1 to Seomyeon Station (exit 5 or 6). Another large shopping mall in the area is Judies Taehwa (tel. 051/667-7000), also off the Seomyeon subway station. Open daily from 11am to 11pm, they're closed the second and fourth Mondays of the month.

Save Zone, 380-14 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu (tel. 051/740-9000), and SfunZ (tel. 051/740-0800) are both huge malls in the Haeundae area. Take subway line 2 to the Haeundae Station (exit 3 for Save Zone and exit 1 for SfunZ). Save Zone is open daily from 10am to 10pm, while SfunZ opens a half-hour later.

Renicite (tel. 051/319-5000) is the huge complex in Sasang-dong. It's open daily 10:30am to midnight (closed on the first Mon of the month). Take subway line 2 to Sasang (exit 3) and walk about 10 minutes.

For jewelry sold directly by factories and wholesalers, look no further than "Jewelry Street," where the vendors have created their own group of jewelry shops in Beomcheon-dongjin-gu. Open daily from 10am to 8pm.

Food

Although a bit overpriced, the Korean Traditional Authentic Food shop is conveniently located at Gimhae Airport (right next to the airport police station). At this shop, open daily from 8am to 6pm, you can find everything from fermented seafood to ginseng and cookies. For better bargains and variety, try one of the large discount stores in town or the Maeil Food shop, 1185-37 Choryang 3-dong, Dong-gu, on the second floor of the Dongbu Goseok (Express) Bus Terminal.

For insam (ginseng) specifically, the Bujeon Insam Wholesale Shopping Center is your best bet for this dried root. Not only is it the largest ginseng market in the city, but the center has grown to include many other health foods. Expect to see a selection of dried mushrooms and other unidentifiable dried products. It's open daily from 6am to 5:30pm. Take subway line 1 to Bujeon-dong and take exit 5.

Worth a look is the Nampo-dong Dried Fish Market, located near the Jagalchi seafood market. You'll see piles of squid jerky, dried seaweed, and other marine products laid out by small streetside vendors.

Handmade Crafts

There is no dedicated area for handmade crafts, artworks, and antiques in Busan like you'd find in Seoul's Insadong area. Most special products and traditional handicraft items can be found in souvenir shops. Although they are usually well made, they are mass-produced and overpriced. A better bet is to try the smattering of shops on the streets between Gwangbok-dong and Daecheong-no. You won't discover any fabulous finds here, but they do have a large selection of traditional ceramics and pottery.

Although they're expensive, you can get authentic traditional antiques at the Korean Antique Gallery Migodang (tel. 051/731-3444) in Haeundae. Take subway line 2 to Haeundae and walk about 10 minutes. The Yegwadang Gallery (tel. 051/752-3016) in Gwangalli has a nice collection of teapots and teacups made by modern craftsmen. Take bus no. 41 to the Seongshim Hospital or get off at the back entrance to the Sehwa Mart. The Busan Crafts & Exhibition Center (tel. 051/740-7588) on the first basement floor of the BEXCO also has a decent selection of wooden crafts, ceramics, and lacquerware. On the second floor of the Busan Department Store, the Arirang Folk Art Center (tel. 051/245-6789) and the Hankook Folk Art Center (tel. 051/555-0092) specialize in folk crafts and traditional wares.

Souvenirs

Most souvenir shops can be found in the shopping arcades of major hotels, inside department stores, and in the shopping areas of transportation hubs. You'll find items more expensive than those in open-air markets and most of them are mass-produced. However, the items are usually of good quality, the shops take most major credit cards, and the sales staff can speak English.

Of special note is the Dalwoo Amethyst shop, 1-2, 2-ga, Gwangbok-dong, Jun-gu (tel. 051/243-8085), which specializes in all things made of amethyst or jade.

The Gonglee Art Creation store (tel. 051/516-6755), inside the Home Plus building in Yeonje-gu, has a variety of souvenirs made of wood, paper, mother-of-pearl, and metals.

Traditional & Open-Air Markets

The open-air markets of Busan are interesting places to look for hard-to-find items, to browse the crowded stalls, and to haggle with vendors for the best price.

In addition to the major markets listed below, there are a handful of oil shijang (5-day markets) scattered through the city. The Jwacheon Market is a village shijang, with a fish and cattle market nearby (open on days that end in 4 or 9). Near Gupo and Deokcheon stations is the Gupo Market, another traditional village shijang (open on days that end in 3 or 8). The Gudeok Cultural Market, open Saturday and Sunday near the Gudeok Stadium, is a great place to buy traditional folk art and handicrafts.

Busan Nightlife

Busan is perhaps a more beautiful city at night than it is during the day. From the glittering neon of the shopping districts to the lights of Gwangalli bridge, there is no shortage of views and things to do after the sun goes down. In fact, the city's cafe and bar culture doesn't come alive until dark.

Upscale bars and cocktail lounges are located in the city's high-end hotels. Several other nightclubs and bars can be found throughout the city. More informal are the hofs (German-style beer bars) and pojang macha (neighborhood rice-wine joints) where you can imbibe without breaking the bank. Most places with English-speaking owners can be found in Foreigners Street and the upscale hotels. A quieter evening can include a cup of coffee from one of Gwangalli's many cafes, a stroll on the boardwalk in Haeundae, or a view of the city lights from Busan Tower.

Performing Arts

Opened in 1977, the Busan Cultural Center (Daeyeon 4-dong, Nam-gu) has since added several smaller theaters and performance spaces. It is connected to the Municipal Museum and the main stage can seat 1,600 people. Take subway line 2 to the Daeyeon-dong Station (exit 3 or 5), and then walk 10 minutes toward the U.N. intersection (past the Busan Museum). Take bus no. 51-1 to the center or bus no. 68 or 134 and get off at U.N. Park. Call tel. 051/625-8130 for info on tickets and dates.

Movie Theaters

Nampo-dong is the home of the Pusan International Film Festival (tel. 051/1688-3010; www.piff.org; they decided to keep the old spelling "Pusan"), one of the largest film festivals in Asia. Usually held sometime in October, the PIFF is a showcase for not only domestically produced films, but movies from international directors. The winners of the festival each year imprint their hands and feet on copper plates (similar to the prints in front of Grauman's Chinese Theater in Hollywood). These copper plates can be seen all across the plaza. Even outside of festival times, the area is crowded with moviegoers of all ages. Unfortunately, South Korean films aren't regularly subtitled (though they are for the festival), but you will be able to watch an English-language film here with no worries.

Dance Clubs & Bars

There is no shortage of bars in Busan, but very few Western-style clubs for dancing. There are few places in the city dedicated to strictly dancing, but people in most clubs begin dancing later on in the wee hours. Most dance clubs can be found in the PNU area or in the luxury hotels in Haeundae.

Be aware that if you go to a Korean-style bar or soju bang (literally, "soju room"), you're expected to order an overpriced anju with your drinks. Also, they won't let you in if you're dressed down or look like you came from the beach. Koreans dress to impress when they go out. The exceptions are the foreigner-friendly bars, mostly near the universities . Also, beware of the "girlie" or "go-go" bars on Texas Street, which will have Western-style or Russian music. Some of the women earn a commission on how many drinks they can get patrons to buy for them. They aren't prostitutes by any means, but you can end up with an empty wallet, nevertheless.

Due to the military curfew of the past, most regular places close at midnight. However, newer clubs and some less-than-legal joints stay open later, even 24 hours. There are bars all over town, but the most popular areas include Nampo-dong, the PNU area, the Kyungsung University area, Haeundae, Gwangalli, and Seomyeon districts.

Haeundae -- A bar that's very popular with expats and foreigners is Starface (tel. 051/742-0600) in Haeundae, which has an open bar every night from 7pm to 2am for only W15,000. There is a pool table and sometimes live bands play in the early evening.

One of the hippest clubs is the MurpII (tel. 051/743-1234; www.murphys.co.kr), a renovated space opened in the old Murphy's location in the Novotel Ambassador. There is a dance floor with DJs and sometimes popular live acts, as well as a couple of private noraebang rooms. A more casual joint is U2 Bar, a rock-'n-roll club across the street from the Novotel. Just down the way at the Paradise Hotel is Club Elune (tel. 051/802-0555; www.clubelune.com), which is a stop for international DJs after they've done Seoul. Across from the Paradise Hotel is the third big, Western-style club, Club Maktum (tel. 051/742-0770; www.maktum.co.kr). You can't miss well-dressed partiers lining up in front of the giant silver phallic entrance.

A foreigner-friendly, late-night option for dancing is the Fuzzy Navel (tel. 011/1757-6349) (every night 7pm-6am). It's behind the Seacloud Hotel, on the right-hand side on the fourth floor (there are signs on the street level as well). The L-shaped bar has a main dance floor and other subrooms, one with a pool table.

For Western-style options, stop by Brother's Bar and Grill (tel. 051/721-5589) on Mipo Street, on the basement level of the DalMaji Hotel. Open noon to 1am Sunday to Thursday (until 2am Fri-Sat), the place is run by a PNU English professor who missed his nachos and margaritas. They have Mexican-style buffets from 6pm to close every Thursday night for a mere W12,000.

Gwangalli --There are a few bars along the narrow beachfront with excellent views of the Gwangan Bridge. You can't miss Beach Bikini with its glass front overlooking the water. Nearby is the larger Beachfield Bar, which has balconies overlooking the beach and an outdoor stage, great for live music on warm summer evenings.

Seomyeon --In the Seomyeon area, many foreigners head over to O'Brien's Irish Bar and Restaurant (051/894-6541) for a pint and a burger. (They also have live music on Sat.) Beers usually start at W5,000 for a bottle. Take the subway to Gaya Station (exit 2), walk straight ahead, and you'll find the bar on your left-hand side; just go down the stairs to the basement.

Another popular nightspot in the neighborhood is Club Foxy (tel. 010/7648-1010). You'll see a bunch of Korean hip-hop dancers on the two dance floors, which can be quite entertaining. The last time I checked, there was no cover for foreigners.

Another happening place is Guri Bar (tel. 010/6807-1149), located behind the Lotte Hotel (go down the alley next to the GS25 and you'll see it past the V Motel).

PNU Area --The younger crowds head out to the bars near the universities. A popular place for dancing in the PNU area is Soul Trane, a small, foreigner-friendly bar located underneath the Western-style restaurant Moe's. They sometimes have live bands, DJs, and other events and can get pretty crowded on weekends. Just down the street from Soul Trane is Crossroads, another bar popular with expats and run by the same owner. They sometimes have live acoustic sets on Tuesdays. To get to either bar from the main gate of Pusan National U., make the first left and walk about 3 blocks. Crossroads will be on your left. If you turn right on that street and walk a bit more, you'll run into Soul Trane. Around the corner from Soul Trane is what used to be a popular bar, Moo Monk, but it has turned quieter as other more popular joints have opened up nearby. Still, the house band on Friday nights brings in crowds. Across the street is a spacious jazz/blues/folk club, Interplay. Many of the country's top funk bands play here and it's a good place to get imported beer, if you're tired of the weak Korean brews.

Bukyoung & Kyungsung University Area --Near Bukyoung University is a great place to dance, the Vinyl Underground (tel. 051/628-0223). DJs come from Seoul on weekends to spin in front of a typically crowded dance floor. They sometimes have live bands on Saturday nights as well. For a more "meet market" scene, follow the beats to the open terrace of Ghetto (tel. 010/4588-4697), where the dance floor is crowded and shots can be had for a mere W1,000. A mellower place that also has friendly, English-speaking staff is Monk (named after Thelonious Monk). They have regular local jazz bands on Tuesday and Thursday; live rock/blues/jazz bands on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday; and jams on Monday nights. About every month or so, they also have their famous Poetry Plus (poets, stand-up comics, one-act plays, and more). Bottles of domestic beer start at W4,000. Take subway line 2 to the Bukyoung/Kyungsung Station. Walk toward Bukyoung U. and turn left at the next-to-the-last street before you reach the entrance to the campus. The Monk Bar will be on your left, and make a left to get to Vinyl Underground (it'll be on your left side).

Another great place to catch live music (more on the punk and rock side) is Ol' 55, located near Monk and Vinyl. Also in the same area is Thursday Party, which is a chain of bars in Busan. They have several other locations, including Gwangalli, Seomyeon, and in Haeundae (on the main drag between the subway station and the beach). All of them are popular with foreigners. Just up the street from Vinyl Underground is a smaller, mellow bar called Live House. The friendly English-speaking owner is also the entertainment -- he plays the sax. It's not some cheesy bad saxophone playing; he's actually pretty good. Just look for it right above the OZZY bar.

Namgu -- Although this area isn't the most happening section of the city at night, there are always places to grab a drink with the locals. One casual pub-type bar is London, 55-14 Daeyeon-dong, Namgu (tel. 051/625-1150), open daily from 4pm to 1am. They have light snacks like chips and salsa to go with your pitchers of beer. A classic hof and soju bar nearby is the Janda Look, 68-7 Daeyeon-dong (tel. 051/623-6420), located on the first floor of the basement level. Along with your beer or soju, you can get a pork sausage meal for W7,000 or fried shrimp (sort of tempura style) for W8,000.

Casinos

Like the majority of casinos in the country, the one in Busan is open only to foreigners. So don't forget to bring your passport. They offer free food and drinks, so you won't have to go hungry or thirsty while gambling the night away. The Paradise Casino, located inside the Paradise Hotel on Haeundae Beach, is the largest one in Busan (not difficult since it's the only one in the city at the moment) and is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. They have blackjack tables, baccarat, roulette, slot machines, and more.

Other Options

There are a variety of nighttime boat cruises that tour the Busan area. One company, Covecruise (tel. 051/742-2525), provides both dinner and night cruises, which last about 2 hours. The nightly dinner cruise leaves at 7pm and returns at 9:30pm and costs W70,000. The nighttime cruise runs from around 10:30pm to 12:30am and costs W55,000. Most of the other cruises set sail at sunset and return well after dark.

Things To Do in Busan

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Busan Attractions

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Beomeosa

Bokcheon-dong Burial Mounds and Museum

Busan Aquarium

Dadaepo Beach

Daeshin Citizen's Park

Eulsuk-do Bird Sanctuary/Nakdong Bird Estuary

Geumjeongsanseong

Gwangalli Beach

Haedong Yonggungsa

Haeundae Beach

Heosimcheong Spa

Hongbeopsa

Samgwangsa

Seokbulsa

Songjeong Beach

Suyeong Park

Taejongdae Park

Toam Ceramic Park

U.N. Memorial Cemetery and Peace Park

Yongdusan Gallery

Yongdusan Park

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