No trip to Butte is complete without a visit to the M&M Cigar Store, 9 N. Main St. -- providing that it's open. The cigar store/saloon/diner/casino that Jack Kerouac said was "the end of my quest for an ideal bar" was continuously open, 24 hours a day, for more than a century after it went into business in 1890, but found itself boarded up in 2003. Then director Wim Wenders fixed up the M&M when he used it as a location for Don't Come Knocking. The renovations made the place a more attractive investment, and it reopened -- with Governor Brian Schweitzer hand-delivering the liquor license just before he took a shot of whiskey in time for St. Patrick's Day 2005. "May she never close," Schweitzer remarked on that day. Then she closed again. At press time, locals expected it to reopen under new ownership in the future. Call the Butte CVB (tel. 800/735-6814) for current information.

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