This Mamluke commercial building (it was built in 1504) isn't the easiest of places to find, but having been restored, it rewards a little effort with a glimpse of the past. Some will argue that it's a little sterile given the noisy and enthusiastic buying and selling in the shops and workshops that it once housed, but it certainly makes a change from the sad, moldering piles that fill most of the streets in the area. The lovely central courtyard is worth a daylight visit, despite the somewhat drear "cultural artifact" displays that the Ministry of Culture uses it for. What I really recommend, though, is coming to see the Sufi dancers, the famous Whirling Dervishes, on Wednesday or Saturday evenings. The show starts at 8pm, and make sure that you're on time -- the doors close at 8:30pm.