Planning a trip to Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard

Health & Safety

Health

You'll find numerous large chain pharmacies on Cape Cod; there's a CVS and Brooks Drugstore in almost every town. In the Outer Cape towns of Wellfleet and Truro and in some of the towns up-island on Martha's Vineyard, you might be a half-hour drive from a pharmacy, so it's best to come prepared with everything you need.

Sun -- Even in this northerly clime, sunburn is a real hazard. For most skin types, it's safest to start with a lotion with a high SPF and work your way down. Be sure to reapply often and according to the directions, and no matter how thoroughly you slather on lotion, try to stay in the shade during prime frying time -- 11am to 2pm. Kids should always wear sunscreen with a high SPF number, or a cover-up such as a T-shirt, if they're going to be playing outside for long periods of time. Sunglasses with UVP (ultraviolet protection) lenses will help shield your eyes.

Insects -- The sea breezes keep most mosquitoes on the move, but not always, so pack some bug spray. Birds on the Cape have been diagnosed with West Nile virus, so it's a good idea to avoid mosquito bites if at all possible. Mosquitoes are the carrier of this disease, which just reached the United States a few years ago. However, the chances of catching West Nile are very low.

The most dangerous insects are pinhead-size deer ticks, which transmit Lyme disease. Widespread along the Massachusetts coast, they're especially active just when you're apt to be there: April through October. Nantucket has the highest concentration of Lyme disease in the country. A vaccine tested there is now on the market. Ask your doctor if you should consider the vaccine. If caught in its early stages -- symptoms include a ring-shaped rash and flulike achiness -- the disease is easily countered with antibiotics; if it's left untreated, however, the effects could eventually prove fatal.

Avoid walking in brush or high grass. If bushwacking is unavoidable, cover up in light-colored clothing (the better to spot any clinging ticks), consisting of a long-sleeve shirt and long pants tucked into high white socks. Camping stores such as EMS sell bush pants that are perfect for this purpose -- they're actually comfortable in warm weather. For double protection, spray your clothes and hands (but not face) with a DEET-based insect repellent. Check your clothes before removing them, and then check your body; it helps to use a mirror or call upon a significant other. Showering after such an outing is a good safeguard. If, despite your best precautions, you find you've brought home a parasite, remove it with tweezers by pulling directly outward, if you can manage to do so without squeezing the body (that would serve only to inject more bacteria into your bloodstream). Dab the bite with alcohol to help disinfect it, and save the tick in a closed jar. If you're within a few minutes of a medical facility, have a doctor deal with the extraction; if you do it yourself, go for testing and treatment as soon as you can and take the tick with you.

The Lyme Disease Foundation (tel. 860/870-0070; 24-hour hotline: 800/886-LYME [5963]) distributes brochures to tourist areas and is also able to field questions. Other good sources of information are the Centers for Disease Control (tel. 888/232-3228 and the Massachusetts Department of Public Health (tel. 866/627-7968).

Plants -- Poison ivy -- with its shiny, purplish, three-leafed clusters -- is ubiquitous and potent on the Cape and islands. If you so much as brush past a frond, the plant's oil is likely to raise an itchy welt. Clothing that has been in contact with the plant can spread the harmless but irritating toxin to your skin; it's even transmitted by smoke. If you think you've been exposed, wash with soap immediately so the oil doesn't spread on your body. Calamine lotion -- available without prescription at all drugstores -- should help soothe the itching. You won't spread the rash by scratching, because it's the oil that does the spreading, but scratches could get infected, so resist the temptation.

Food Hazards -- Most menus contain a warning to beware of uncooked fish because it can carry diseases. However, considering the amount of fish consumed in the region (fish is a staple in local restaurants), food illness is extremely rare on the Cape and islands.

Safety

Tourist areas in the United States are generally safe, and the Cape and islands are safer than most. Although a number of towns, particularly the larger ones, suffer their share of crime (much of it drug- and alcohol-related), there's no such thing as a "bad neighborhood" here, per se. However, with crime on the increase everywhere, you need to stay alert and take the usual precautions. Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street or at the beach, and be discreet with expensive cameras and electronic equipment. When milling in crowds (in Hyannis or Provincetown, for example), place your billfold in an inside pocket, and hang on to your purse; anything kept in a backpack should be buried beyond reach. In closely packed places, such as restaurants, theaters, and ferries, keep your possessions in sight, and never sling a bag over the back of your chair: It's too easy a target. Alas, anything left visible in a car, locked or unlocked, is an open invitation, even in secluded Nantucket.

It would be rare in this region to find security staff screening all those who enter a hotel, especially if there's a restaurant on the premises, so don't relax your guard until your door is securely locked. Many areas are still so countrified that homeowners don't even lock their doors, and you'll find that most B&Bs are fairly laissez-faire; a few lack bedroom door locks altogether. If you're traveling light, it shouldn't matter, but if you're the cautious type, inquire about security measures before setting out.

Women, unfortunately, are no safer here than anywhere else, so avoid visiting deserted areas alone, even during the day. Hyannis can get a bit rowdy when its dance clubs are in full swing, and even more so when they let out. For the most part, though, this is a peaceful place, more like the 1950s, and as long as you keep your wits about you, you should be able to relax, relatively speaking.

Driving Safety -- Though Massachusetts is quite strict, drunk driving is a definite hazard. The best tactic is to avoid the offenders as much as possible, primarily by staying off the roads late at night. It's probably not a good idea to cover long distances at night in any case, as there are no 24-hour gas stations to help out in case of emergency.

Carjacking has yet to make an appearance on the Cape, but car theft runs high in Massachusetts as a whole, so lock your doors even if the natives never bother.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Gay and lesbian travelers, singly or in pairs, will feel right at home in Provincetown, a world-renowned gay vacation capital. They should also feel comfortable wandering farther afield. This is a sophisticated, semi-urban population, and you'll rarely encounter an overtly bigoted innkeeper, shopkeeper, or restaurateur. If you do, report them to the Massachusetts Commission Against Discrimination, 1 Ashburton Pl., Room 601, Boston, MA 02108 (tel. 617/727-3990).

To avoid unpleasant situations, read between the lines of promotional literature ("fun for the whole family" may mean not much fun for you), or be blunt in stating your expectations (for example, "It will be for me and my partner, [name goes here], and we'd like a queen bed, if possible"). The descriptions of each establishment listed in this guide should give some idea of their suitability and compatibility.

Tips on Accommodations

The listings in this guide feature a range of summer rates for a room with double occupancy. Keep in mind that this figure does not take into account the state and local tax, which is 9.7%. Off-season prices are typically discounted by about 20% to 30%, sometimes more.

Virtually every town on the Cape has lodgings to suit every taste and budget. The essential trick is to secure reservations months in advance for the peak season of July through August (June and Sept are getting crowded, too). You can't count on luck; in fact, unless you're just planning a day trip, you probably shouldn't even visit at the height of summer unless you've prearranged a place to stay.

Accommodations range from sprawling, full-facility resorts to cozy little B&Bs with room for only a handful of guests. The price differential, surprisingly enough, may not be that great. A room at a particularly exquisite inn might run more than a modern hotel room with every imaginable amenity.

Because there are hundreds of lodging establishments of every stripe throughout the Cape and islands, I've focused only on those with special qualities: superb facilities, for example, or especially friendly and helpful hosts. I've personally visited every place listed in this guide, but worthy new inns -- as well as resurrected old ones -- are constantly popping up.

For tips on finding the best hotel deals online, visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Reservations Services -- Several reservations services cover the region, but do your due diligence: it's "buyer beware" when it comes to such terms as "water view" or "beachfront" (Provincetown's in-town beach, for instance, is quite scenic for strolls, but a bit too close to an active harbor to make for pleasant swimming).

Some inns and hotels offer special packages, which they may or may not list, so always inquire. Most require a 2-night minimum on weekends, 3 or even 5 if it's a holiday weekend. All provide free parking, although in a congested area such as Provincetown, you may have to play musical spaces.

Family-Friendly Choices -- Although all lodgings in the state are prohibited by law from discriminating on the basis of age, a lot of the fancier, fussier B&Bs will be none too happy if you show up with a young child or infant in tow. You might not be too happy either, spending your entire vacation attending to damage control. It can't hurt to inquire -- perhaps anonymously, before calling to book -- about an establishment's attitude toward children and its suitability for their needs. If you get the impression that your child won't be welcome, there's no point in pushing it: The child, sensing correctly that he/she is not wanted, is likely to exceed your worst expectations. It's usually easiest to seek out places where kids are appreciated. Motels are usually a safe bet (it's what they're designed for), and the kids icons and reviews in this book should indicate other likely spots.

A popular family option is to rent a cottage or house by the week or month , but you must make plans in advance -- sometimes up to a year before your trip.

Renting a Cottage or House

Families planning a Cape Cod vacation, especially families with young children, should consider renting a cottage or house rather than choosing an inn or hotel. The trick to finding a great rental can be summed up in two words: Book early. Start calling Realtors in January and February (if not sooner -- some vacationers who return every summer book a year in advance). If you can visit earlier in the year to check out a few places, it helps; otherwise you may be able to view choices on a Realtor's website or the Realtor can e-mail photos to you.

Believe it or not, parts of Cape Cod are not close to a beach. When talking to a Realtor, ask specifically for rentals on the water, with views of the water, or within a half-mile of a beach. You'll have a better Cape Cod vacation if you are within walking distance of a beach.

Prices on rentals vary, but they are always much lower in the off season. Depending on the rental, "off season" could mean late June or even late August, so ask what the cutoff dates are for high-season prices. Location is the single biggest factor in determining price: A two-bedroom cottage could cost $800 a week in Dennis or $8,000 a week on Nantucket. Tell your Realtor your price range and what you are looking for, and he or she will select appropriate listings for you to choose from.

Each town's chamber of commerce can put you in touch with local Realtors. You can also call the Cape Cod & Islands Association of Realtors (tel. 508/442-0006; www.cciaor.com) for a complete list of Realtors in the area.

Here is a list of good Realtors with rentals, by region: Real Estate Associates, in North Falmouth (tel. 508/563-7173); Kinlin/Grover Realtors, in Sandwich (tel. 508/362-2723); Bay Village Realty, in Brewster (tel. 508/896-6200); Duarte/Downey Real Estate, in Truro (tel. 508/349-7588); Linda R. Bassett Vacation Rentals, on Martha's Vineyard (tel. 508/627-9201); and Nantucket Real Estate Co., on Nantucket (tel. 800/228-4070 or 508/228-2530).

Camping

A number of state parks and recreation areas maintain campgrounds; for a full listing for the state, contact the Department of Conservation and Recreation, Division of Forests and Parks (tel. 617/727-3180).

The largest such area on the Cape is the 2,000-acre Nickerson State Park (tel. 508/896-3491), with more than 400 campsites. The Massachusetts Audubon Society offers limited tenting at its 1,000-acre Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary (tel. 508/349-2615).

Note: Camping is expressly forbidden within the Cape Cod National Seashore (with the exception of a few "grandfathered" commercial campgrounds) and on Nantucket. Seashore camping is not allowed on Martha's Vineyard either. The Vineyard has one campground, called Martha's Vineyard Family Campground, on 92 Edgartown Road (tel. 508/693-3772), which is in the middle of the island and far from a beach.

A partial list of private campgrounds that belong to the Massachusetts Association of Campground Owners appears in the Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism's free Getaway Guide (tel. 800/227-MASS [6277] or 617/973-8500).

Hostel Hospitality on the Cape & Islands

Hostelling International/Cape Cod (tel. 617/718-7990; http://capecod.hiusa.org/index.php) offers low-cost seasonal accommodations in dorms (and a few private rooms), generally from late spring to sometime in September, at five sites on the Cape and islands: Martha's Vineyard, Mid Cape (Eastham), Nantucket, Hyannis, and Truro. Rates vary but range from $25 to $35 per person per night in a dorm room for nonmembers. When available, the private rooms cost from $125 to $200 per night. HI membership is $28 a year for adults, $18 for adults 55 and over, and free for 17 and under. Note that there's a limit on the length of stay. You can also buy daily memberships at the Cape Cod hostels for $3.

HI/AYH properties are on Ocean Street in Hyannis, across from Hyannis Inner Harbor; in Eastham, just off the bike trail; in a former Coast Guard station overlooking Ballston Beach in Truro; adjoining the 4,000-acre Manuel F. Correllus State Forest in West Tisbury on Martha's Vineyard; and in an 1874 lifesaving station on Surfside Beach on Nantucket.

If you haven't been to a hostel before (or if it's been awhile since you did the backpack/Eurailpass adventure), here's some basic info about the Cape Cod hostels:

• Continental breakfast is included with the room rate.
• Each hostel has a fully equipped kitchen so you can prepare meals.
• Linens, pillows, and blankets are provided free of charge (sleeping bags are not permitted).
• There is no minimum stay required.
• Check-in is between 3 and 10pm.
• No smoking or alcohol is permitted.
• Nonmembers may either buy a daily membership for $3 or become a Hostelling International member.
• Once checked in, there is 24-hour access.

Tips for Senior Travelers

With relatively mild winters and splendid summers, Cape Cod and the islands are popular retirement spots. In fact, as of the 2000 U.S. Census, more than a third of the population was 55 or older. Businesses from museums to B&Bs cater to this clientele with attractive discounts, and many restaurants offer early bird specials (smaller portions at lower prices, offered before the ordinary dinner hour).

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone older than 50 can join.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable, wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/tips.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

• In Canada, Green Living (www.greenlivingonline.com) offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

• In Australia, the national body that sets guidelines and standards for ecotourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Green Directory (www.thegreendirectory.com.au), Green Pages (www.thegreenpages.com.au), and EcoDirectory (www.ecodirectory.com.au) offer sustainable travel tips and directories of green businesses.

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org) and TerraPass (www.terrapass.com) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• Green Hotels Association (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings. The Hotel Association of Canada has a Green Key Eco-Rating Program (www.greenkeyglobal.com), which audits the environmental performance of Canadian hotels, motels, and resorts.

• Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) lists sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

• For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.goabroad.com and www.idealist.org.

Sustainable Tourism

Nature's beauty is one of the great assets of Cape Cod and the islands. Besides Cape Cod National Seashore, there are numerous protected areas run by state and local authorities -- that's why sustainable tourism is so important to this area. You will find that many lodging establishments, particularly those on Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, include information in each hotel room about steps the hotel is taking to be more environmentally responsible and how you can help. Typical steps are to hang up towels if you do not need them to be changed every day. Water is precious on Cape Cod and the islands because of the limits of the region's sole source aquifer. For that reason, major attempts are made to conserve water. Many towns go into voluntary water restrictive measures every summer. For visitors, that means that unless you request water in a restaurant, you might not be served it automatically. The water saved is not just the water in the glass but also the amount of water it takes to wash the glass.

Several towns on Cape Cod take great measures to educate their citizens about not using too much fertilizer and pesticides on lawns. A true "Cape Cod" lawn does not use any fertilizer at all. You will see examples of xeriscaping around Cape Cod, particularly in Falmouth, in front of the town hall. Xeriscaping is a method of landscaping that uses little to no water or fertilizer. You will see a colorful mélange of beach grasses and other sustainable plants that require little to no care. This type of landscaping is also popular in the Outer Cape towns, where water is also at a premium.

Very little of the Cape is on a sewer system, and the towns are all engaged in discussions about how to hook more homes up to sewers in order to protect the water quality in the region's bays and estuaries. This will likely be the largest issue in the region in the coming years.

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Your Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Thanks to provisions in the Americans with Disabilities Act, at least some modes of public transportation and almost all public establishments (including hotels, restaurants, and museums, but not including certain National Historic Landmarks) provide accessible entrances and other facilities for those with disabilities. On Cape Cod and the islands, many historic buildings are not accessible for travelers with disabilities, but modern construction is generally equipped with such amenities as ramps, and most inns and restaurants have accessible bathrooms.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

April

Daffodil Festival, Nantucket. Spring's arrival is heralded with masses of yellow blooms adorning everything in sight, including a cavalcade of antique cars. Call tel. 508/228-1700. April 27 to 29.

Brewster in Bloom, Brewster. You'll find open houses, a crafts fair and flea market, and hot-air balloons. The Old King's Highway (Rte. 6A) is lined with thousands of daffodils. Call tel. 508/896-3500, or visit www.brewsterinbloom.org. Late April to early May.

May

Chatham Maritime Festival, Chatham. A festival to raise awareness of Chatham's fishing industry, with food and events at the Chatham Fish Pier and on Main Street. Call tel. 508/945-5199. Early May.

Cape Maritime Week, Cape-wide. A multitude of cultural organizations mount special events, such as lighthouse tours, highlighting the region's nautical history. Activities include Coast Guard open houses, lectures, walking tours, and more. The week is sponsored by the Cape Cod Commission. Call tel. 508/362-3828. Mid-May.

Herb Festival, Sandwich. Activities include exhibits, talks, and garden walks at the Green Briar Nature Center. Call tel. 508/888-6870. Mid-May.

Dexter Rhododendron Festival, Sandwich. Heritage Museums and Gardens -- at the peak of bloom -- sells offshoots of its incomparable botanical collection. Call tel. 508/888-3300. Late May.

Nantucket Wine Festival, Nantucket. Vintners from all over converge on Nantucket for wine tastings and cuisine provided by some of the island's top chefs. The Grand Cru is the main event. Call tel. 508/228-1128, or visit www.nantucketwinefestival.com. Late May.

Figawi Sailboat Race, Hyannis to Nantucket. This is the largest -- and wildest -- race on the East Coast. Intense partying in Hyannis and on Nantucket surrounds this popular event. Call tel. 508/221-6891, or visit www.figawi.com. Memorial Day weekend.

June

Arts Alive Festival, Falmouth. Dozens of artists and performers, including painters, musicians, dancers, filmmakers, and storytellers, give demonstrations, show films, sell artwork, and put on performances at this weekend-long event that opens with a town dance on the library lawn. Call tel. 508/548-8500, or visit www.artsfalmouth.org/artsalive. Mid-June.

Harborfest Celebration, Nantucket. It's a chance to sample competing chowders and board tall ships. Call tel. 508/228-1700. Mid-June.

Nantucket Film Festival, Nantucket. This annual event focuses on storytelling through film and includes showings of short and feature-length films, documentaries, staged readings, panel discussions, and screenplay competitions. Sponsors include Vanity Fair magazine, so you may see a celebrity or two. Call tel. 508/325-6274, or visit www.nantucketfilmfestival.org. Mid-June.

Provincetown International Film Festival, Provincetown. Focusing on alternative film, this fete has brought out such celebrities as John Waters and Lily Tomlin. Call tel. 508/487-FILM [3456], or visit www.ptownfilmfest.org. Mid-June.

St. Barnabas Strawberry Festival, Falmouth. Indulge in strawberry shortcake as well as barbecue and lots of children's games on the grounds of St. Barnabas Church, next to the Village Green. Call tel. 508/548-8500. Mid-June.

A Taste of the Vineyard, Martha's Vineyard. Island restaurateurs offer samplings of their specialties at Edgartown's Whaling Church to benefit the Martha's Vineyard Preservation Trust. Call tel. 508/627-8017. Mid-June.

Aptucxet Strawberry Festival, Bourne. The Aptucxet Trading Post Museum, a replica of the country's first store, features crafts demonstrations and fresh strawberry shortcake. Call tel. 508/759-9487. Late June.

Brewster Historical Society Antiques Fair, Brewster. This outdoor extravaganza features 80 top dealers. Call tel. 508/896-9521, or visit www.brewsterhistoricalsociety.org. Late June.

Provincetown Portuguese Festival, Provincetown. This cultural event celebrates Provincetown's Portuguese heritage with music, dancing, exhibits, food, a parade, fireworks, and the traditional Blessing of the Fleet. Call tel. 508/246-9080, or visit www.provincetownportuguesefestival.com. Late June.

Rock 'n' Roll Ramble, Sandwich. Vintage cars from the '50s and '60s converge on Heritage Museums and Gardens for a concert and mutual admiration. Call tel. 508/888-3300. Late June.

July

Throughout July and August, Hyannis Main Street has a range of free activities, ranging from concerts at Aselton Park (next to Hyannis Harbor) on Tuesdays, Fridays, and some Sundays to movies on the Village Green on Wednesday evenings, concerts on the Village Green on Wednesdays, Summer Music Stroll on Thursdays, and Art Stroll on the first Thursday of each summer month. Call the Hyannis Area Chamber of Commerce at 508/775-2201 for details.

Independence Day, Barnstable. A spectacular fireworks display over Hyannis Harbor. Call tel. 508/775-2201. July 4th weekend.

Independence Day, Edgartown. An old-fashioned, small-town parade and fireworks over Edgartown Harbor are the highlights of this beloved event. Call tel. 508/693-0085. July 4th weekend.

Independence Day, Falmouth. The fireworks at Falmouth Heights Beach make up one of the largest shows in the region. Your best bet is to park in town earlier in the evening and walk over to the Heights. Call tel. 508/548-8500. July 4th weekend.

Independence Day, Provincetown. Festivities include a spirited parade, entertainment, and fireworks over the harbor. Call tel. 508/487-3424. July 4th weekend.

Independence Day, Nantucket. The highlight of the island's busiest weekend is fireworks on Jetties Beach. Call tel. 508/228-0925. July 4th weekend.

Wampanoag Pow Wow, Mashpee. Native American tribes from around the country converge to enjoy traditional dances and games. Call tel. 508/477-0208, or visit www.mashpeewampanoagtribe.com. July 4th weekend.

Edgartown Regatta, Martha's Vineyard. A highly social sailing event. Call tel. 508/627-4361, or visit www.edgartownyc.org/regatta.php. July 19 to 21.

Mashpee Night at the Pops, Mashpee Commons. A concert followed by fireworks. This event attracts about 15,000 pops fans. Call tel. 508/539-2345, or visit www.mashpeepops.com. Late July.

Barnstable County Fair, East Falmouth. This old-fashioned, 9-day agricultural extravaganza is complete with prize produce and livestock and, of course, rides and a midway. There are concerts nightly. Call tel. 508/563-3200, or visit www.barnstablecountyfair.org. July 21 to 28.

Woods Hole Film Festival, Falmouth. A festival that spans 2 weeks and numerous venues and features small independent films. Call tel. 508/495-FILM [3456], or visit www.woodsholefilmfestival.org. Late July.

August

In the Spirit Arts Festival, Martha's Vineyard. Oak Bluffs celebrates its cultural diversity with food, music, and children's fun. Call tel. 508/693-0085. Early August.

Pops by the Sea, Hyannis. Celebrity "conductors" -- such as Olympia Dukakis -- enliven this outdoor concert with the Boston Pops Esplanade Orchestra. Call tel. 508/775-2201. Early August.

Possible Dreams Auction, Martha's Vineyard. Resident celebrities give -- and bid -- their all to support the endeavors of Martha's Vineyard Community Services. Call tel. 508/693-7900, or visit www.possibledreamsauction.org. Early August.

Carnival Week, Provincetown. The gay community's annual blowout features performers, parties, and an outrageous costume parade. Call tel. 508/487-2313. August 12 to 17.

Falmouth Road Race, Falmouth. Joggers and world-class runners turn out in droves -- 10,000 strong -- for this annual race that covers just over 7 miles. Entry registration is by lottery and ends in May. Note: Unregistered runners are not allowed to participate. Call tel. 508/540-7000, or visit www.falmouthroadrace.com. August 12.

Agricultural Society Livestock Show and Fair, Martha's Vineyard. In West Tisbury, you'll find a classic country carnival and a celebration of the Vineyard's agricultural tradition. Call tel. 508/693-9549, or visit www.mvas.vineyard.net/fair.php. Mid-August.

Sandcastle and Sculpture Day, Nantucket. This fairly serious but fun contest is categorized by age group, which ups the odds of winning. Call tel. 508/228-1700. Mid-August.

Festival Days, Dennis. Six days of events, including fun-for-the-family activities such as a kite-flying contest, a canoe race, a crafts fair, and more. Call tel. 800/243-9920 or 508/398-3568. Late August.

Illumination Night, Martha's Vineyard. The Oak Bluffs campground is lit with hundreds of Japanese lanterns. Campground officials keep this event a secret until the last minute, so it's hard to plan ahead. Call tel. 508/693-0085. Late August.

Oak Bluffs Fireworks and Band Concert, Martha's Vineyard. It's the summer's last blast. Call tel. 508/693-0085. Late August.

September

Bourne Scallop Festival, Bourne. This annual weekend event features food, crafts, rides, musical entertainment, and more. Call tel. 508/759-6000, or visit www.bournescallopfest.com. Early September.

POP Goes the Summer, Falmouth. Experience a Cape Cod Symphony Orchestra concert followed by fireworks. Call tel. 508/548-8500. Early September.

Windmill Weekend, Eastham. This jolly community festival includes a sand-art competition, road races, band concerts, an arts and crafts show, a tricycle race, and professional entertainment. The highlight of this weekend is the square dance held under the historic windmill. Call tel. 508/255-3444, or visit www.easthamwindmillweekend.com. Early September.

Cranberry Festival, Harwich. This is a chance to observe and celebrate the colorful harvest, with 9 days of events ranging from pancake breakfasts to fireworks. Call tel. 800/441-3199 or 508/430-2811, or visit www.harwichcranberryfestival.org. Mid-September.

Martha's Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby, Martha's Vineyard. In its 56th year, the region's premier fishing derby and one of the country's oldest is a month-long classic contest. Call tel. 508/693-0085, or visit www.mvderby.com. Mid-September to mid-October.

Harbor Swim for Life, Provincetown. Stalwart swimmers participate in this event to raise money for local AIDS organizations. The race is followed by a festive Mermaid Brunch and a sunset "Festival of Happiness" on Herring Cove Beach. Call tel. 508/487-1930, or visit www.swim4life.org. Late September.

Provincetown Arts Festival, Provincetown. Building up to the Provincetown Art Association and Museum Annual Consignment Auction (tel. 508/487-1750), this festival, which takes place over 4 weekends, is an extraordinary opportunity to collect works spanning the past century. Local artists hold open studios, actors stage readings of Eugene O'Neill, and galleries hold special exhibits. Call tel. 508/487-3424. Late September to mid-October.

Sandwich Boardwalk Celebration, Sandwich. This community did some serious bonding years ago when its boardwalk was damaged by a storm -- everyone pitched in to build a new one. This festival, with professional kite-flying and entertainment for families, has become an annual tradition. Call tel. 508/833-9755. Late September.

October

Wellfleet OysterFest, Wellfleet. Spend a weekend learning about and tasting Wellfleet's world-famous oysters at this weekend-long street festival, including arts, crafts, and live music. Call tel. 508/349-2510, or visit www.wellfleetoysterfest.org. Always the weekend (beginning on Fri) after Columbus Day.

Trash Fish Banquet, Provincetown. Unsung, or perhaps undersung, species are creatively cooked to benefit the Center for Coastal Studies. Call tel. 508/487-3622. Mid-October.

Women's Week, Provincetown. This is a gathering of artists, entertainers, and educators, as well as women who just want to have fun. Call tel. 508/487-2313, or visit www.womeninnkeepers.com. Mid-October.

Walking Weekend, Cape-wide. More than 45 guided walks (averaging 2 hr. in length) are sponsored by an organization called Cape Pathways to foster appreciation for the Cape's unique ecology and cultural accomplishments. Call tel. 508/362-3828. Mid-October.

Yarmouth Seaside Festival, Yarmouth. Enjoy a parade, fireworks, arts and crafts, contests, and sporting events. Call tel. 800/732-1008 or 508/778-1008, or visit www.yarmouthseasidefestival.com. Mid-October.

November

Lighting of the Pilgrim Monument, Provincetown. The Italianate tower turns into a monumental holiday ornament, as carolers convene below. Call tel. 508/487-1310. Thanksgiving Eve (late Nov).

Harbor Lighting, Hyannis. The boats parade by, twinkling with lights, and Santa arrives via lobster boat. Call tel. 508/362-5230. Late November.

Fall Festival, Edgartown. Family activities at the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary include a treasure hunt, wildlife walks, and wreath making. Call tel. 508/627-4850. Late November.

Chatham's Christmas by the Sea, Chatham. A month of townwide events includes historic-inn tours, carolers, hayrides, open houses, a dinner dance, and an appearance by Santa. Call tel. 508/945-5199. Late November through December.

December

Christmas in Sandwich, Sandwich. Seasonal open houses, exhibits, community caroling, and merchant promotions take place throughout the town. Call tel. 508/833-9755. Early December.

Christmas Stroll, Nantucket. The island briefly stirs from its winter slumber for one last shopping/feasting spree, attended by costumed carolers, Santa in a horse-drawn carriage, and a "talking" Christmas tree. This event is the pinnacle of Nantucket Noel, a month of festivities starting in late November. Ferries and lodging establishments book up months before this event, so you'll need to plan ahead. Call tel. 508/228-1700. Early December.

Falmouth Christmas by the Sea, Falmouth. Weekend-long seasonal entertainment features carolers, holiday lights, Santa, and a parade along the historic and lavishly decorated Falmouth Village Green. Call tel. 508/548-8500. Early December.

Holly Folly, Provincetown. The annual gay and lesbian holiday festival has events open to all, including guesthouse tours, holiday parties, the Reindeer Run, concerts, and more. Call tel. 508/487-2313, or visit www.ptown.org/HollyFolly.asp. Early December.

Yarmouth Port Christmas Stroll, Yarmouth Port. Stroll along the Old King's Highway for open houses, visits with Santa, and caroling. Call tel. 508/778-1008. Early December.

First Night, Chatham. Following Boston's lead, Chatham puts on a festive evening featuring local performers. Call tel. 508/945-5199, or visit www.firstnightchatham.com. New Year's Eve.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost either 25¢ or 35¢ (no pennies, please). Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial tel. 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and tel. 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

A new law in Massachusetts prohibits texting while driving. It also prohibits all cellphone use for those under the age of 18.

You will see numerous cellphone towers on the Cape, and most of the region has pretty good cellphone service. Exceptions are Woods Hole and the Outer Cape, particularly Truro and Provincetown. Verizon seems to have the best cellphone coverage of all the carriers.

If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

If you need to stay in touch and your phone won't work, rent one from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental car location, but beware that you'll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Most Cape and island towns have at least one cybercafe; check with your innkeeper or the local chamber of commerce to find the closest one. Almost all public libraries have free Internet access. In addition, almost all inns have free Wi-Fi. Two towns -- Falmouth and Orleans -- have free Wi-Fi zones in their downtown areas.

Regions in Brief

Newcomers -- known locally as "wash-ashores" -- invariably struggle with the terms "Upper" and "Lower," used to describe, respectively, the westernmost and easternmost sections of the Cape. The distinction is thought to allude to the longitude, which decreases as you head east.

Many find it helpful to use the analogy of the "arm" of Cape Cod, with the Upper Cape towns of Sandwich, Falmouth, Bourne, and Mashpee forming the upper arm; Chatham the elbow of the Lower Cape; and Provincetown the "fist." On Martha's Vineyard, similar confusion reigns over what's meant by "up-island" and "down-island." Down-island consists of the touristy port towns of Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown. In the summer months, locals try to stay up-island, avoiding down-island at all costs.

Even the term "land" may be a bit misleading; the Cape and islands are actually just heaps of sand, without bedrock. Described geologically as "terminal moraine," they're what remains of the grit heaved and dumped by the motion of massive glaciers that finally receded some 12,000 years ago, leaving a legacy of "kettle ponds" -- steep-sided freshwater pools formed when sharp fragments of the glacier were left to melt in place. Under the relentless onslaught of storms and tides, the landmass's outlines are still subject to constant change and eventual erasure.

The modern landscape is vastly different from what was visible a century ago. Virtually all the trees represent new growth. The settlers, in their rush to build houses and ships and to fuel hearths and factories, plundered all the lumber. Were it not for the recession during the late 19th century, you'd be looking at turnip fields and "poverty grass" -- so called because it will grow anywhere, needing next to nothing to survive. Instead the Lower Cape and Mid Cape are now lushly forested, and if the tree cover gets spindly along the Outer Cape, it's the result of battery by salt winds rather than human depredation.

The islands also show the effects of the ocean winds -- predominantly those out of the southwest. Harbor towns and down-island areas enjoy a canopy of trees, and the more exposed portions consist primarily of grassy sand plains and moors.

The 15 towns on Cape Cod have quite distinct personalities to match the varied landscape. Few similarities exist, for instance, among rural Truro, rowdy Hyannis, and historic Sandwich Village.

Most frequent vacationers to Cape Cod return to the same village every year, rarely venturing beyond their chosen town's lines. But the resourceful visitor who explores the region, perhaps driving the Old King's Highway (Rte. 6A), shopping in Chatham, beaching it at the National Seashore, and checking out an island or two, will get an eyeful of the area's diversity.

Visitors may be confused by the similar names of towns on the Cape, particularly in the Mid Cape area. When you book a room, it may be helpful to understand these distinctions. Barnstable County consists of the 15 towns on Cape Cod, all of which are made up of individual villages. The largest town on Cape Cod is called Barnstable, and it is made up of eight villages: Cotuit, Osterville, Marstons Mills, Centerville, Hyannis, Hyannis Port, West Barnstable, and Barnstable Village.

Despite the similar names, towns and even villages on the Cape retain their distinct characters. For instance, picturesque little Barnstable Village (along Rte. 6A, the historic Old King's Hwy.) couldn't be more different from Hyannis (off Rte. 28), transportation hub and home of the mall. Both are villages in the town of Barnstable. In the same vein, the sleepy, rural village of West Barnstable (off Rte. 6A) doesn't have much in common with wealthy, preppy Osterville (off Rte. 28 on the coast). Other notable villages in Barnstable include Cotuit (off Rte. 28; historic and quaint), Marstons Mills (off Rte. 28, but inland; mainly residential), Centerville (off Rte. 28; beachy, yet with some commercial sprawl), and Hyannis Port (off Rte. 28, on the coast; a residential neighborhood made famous by the Kennedys).

A number of other villages and towns are notable for their unique characteristics. Woods Hole -- where bohemians and scientists coexist in a bustling ferry port -- is a village in the town of Falmouth, whose downtown has a pleasant Main Street and picture-postcard town green. Chatham and Osterville both have main streets that are destinations for shoppers seeking expensive, quality wares. Gay-friendly Provincetown has a colorful main street with great people-watching opportunities. Sandwich may well be the quaintest town; Wellfleet, the most artsy. West Barnstable, Barnstable, Yarmouth Port, Dennis, and Brewster are all prototypical New England villages along the historic Old King's Highway. Of these, Dennis Village has the most going on, with a museum, cinema, and playhouse all in one historic complex. The Outer Cape towns (Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, and Provincetown) have the National Seashore beaches, but many families prefer the accessibility of the villages on Nantucket Sound: West Dennis and Harwich Port offer pretty beaches with calm surf and warmer waters.

On the islands, location is also an important factor. Most visitors to Nantucket choose lodging in town, where everything is within walking distance. On Martha's Vineyard, down-island towns (Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown) host the majority of the action -- shops, restaurants, and multitudes of tourists. If a serene escape from the grind is what you seek, you may want to be up-island (West Tisbury; Chilmark, including the village of Menemsha; or Aquinnah), but you'll need a car -- or a passion for biking -- to enjoy these locations.

Socially, the towns of the Cape and islands have their differences, too. Older, more protected communities, such as Sandwich, Falmouth, and Edgartown, appeal to traditionalists, while 20-somethings and adventurous types of all ages seem to feel more at home in open-minded, forward-thinking settings such as Wellfleet or Provincetown. Families are sure to have a fabulous time everywhere on the Cape and islands, because splashing surf and expanses of sand are ubiquitous.

Route 28 east of Hyannis, an eyesore of tacky strip-mall development, represents a warning of what the future holds unless residents continue to clamp down on zoning. Though the pressures of development are unrelenting, Cape lovers have done a pretty good job, so far, of fending off more egregious offenders. The Cape Cod National Seashore -- though hotly protested when it was instituted in 1961 -- serves as a living reminder of the glory that could have been lost, or perhaps reserved solely for the enjoyment of the ultrarich.

Today it is the unspoiled natural beauty and historical charm of the area that attracts visitors. Cape Cod's yearly haul of 17 million visitors infuses the region with more than $700 million in revenues. Tourism has been the leading business sector since the late 19th century and is likely to remain so for centuries to come.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel-services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; tel. 134-782 in Australia; tel. 0800/819-9339 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitle you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is one US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas" section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov). For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511; www.cbp.gov).

Canada Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise (tel. 0845/010-9000 outside the U.K., or 020/8929-0152; www.hmrc.gov.uk).

Australia Citizens: Australian Customs Service (tel. 1300/363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 1 Hinemoa St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440, or 301/519-0459 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Families love to bring their pets to Cape Cod. Usually they bring dogs, but one pet-friendly cottage colony owner told me about a guest who showed up with two horses. A number of inexpensive motels on the Cape welcome dogs or set aside a few rooms for guests who bring their dog. Some of these charge a pet fee.

The most deluxe pet accommodations in the region are surely the Woof Cottages, also known as the Wharf Cottages, at Nantucket's The Cottages at the Boat Basin (tel. 866/838-9253; www.thecottagesnantucket.com). You can stay with your dog or cat in specially designated units that come with plush pet beds, toys, and treats, plus a bandanna to make your dog as stylish as a Nantucket native.

In Provincetown, perhaps the Cape's dog-friendliest community, dozens of people walk their dogs down Commercial Street every day. Many motels allow pets, and dogs are welcome at several outdoor cafes.

Every town has good hiking trails where people exercise their dogs -- sometimes off-leash, even though the law forbids it. Most towns don't permit dogs on the beach in peak daytime hours and/or in summer, but you can take your dog onto many beaches in early morning and evening and/or off season. Check with the local chamber of commerce for the local rules.

Getting There

By Plane

Most major carriers offer service to Boston's Logan Airport, and from there it's a quick half-hour commuter flight on Cape Air to Hyannis or Provincetown (about $220 round-trip), or the islands (to Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket, about $350 round-trip).

It's also easy to shuttle in from New York's LaGuardia Airport. Nonstop flights from either LaGuardia or Newark to Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket take about 1 hour and 15 minutes and cost around $500. Connections are also available between these airports and New Bedford, and private charters are easy to arrange.

Comparison-shopping can pay off, as preliminary research will help you find the best deal. For example, Continental offers a seasonal service from Newark Airport to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. US Airways services Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket from both Logan and LaGuardia. Cape Air is the only airline currently offering service from Logan Airport to Provincetown.

Among the larger airlines serving Logan Airport are American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300), Continental (tel. 800/523-3273), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212), United (tel. 800/241-6522); and US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322).

Cape Cod’s main airport, Barnstable Municipal Airport, is in the Mid-Cape town of Hyannis. Flights from New York City via Jet Blue take about an hour; from Boston’s Logan Airport it’s even quicker, half an hour. Cape Air flies from Boston, while Nantucket Airlines (www.nantucketairlines.com) flies back and forth to Nantucket Island (see chapter 7). Jet Blue and Cape Air also fly from Boston to Provincetown Municipal Airport, at the tip of the Cape; the trip takes about 30 minutes and costs $358 to $405 for a round-trip.

Flying to Nantucket from Hyannis takes about 20 minutes, depending on the weather; costs about $138 round-trip; and is a great way to avoid the hectic ferry scene. Island Airlines and Cape Air make the most frequent trips from Hyannis to Nantucket. These two air carriers alone operate more than 50 flights per day, and both offer charter flights.

The commuter flights have their own little fare wars, so it's worth comparing costs. And though flights may lessen in frequency during the off season, fares sometimes descend as well.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Visitors to the Cape and islands who are flying into Boston's Logan Airport or T.F. Green Airport in Providence, Rhode Island, can rent a car and drive to Cape Cod in about 1 1/2 hours (from Boston) or an hour (from Providence). Driving maps are generally available at car rental locations.

The major route from Boston's Logan Airport is I-93 S. to Route 3, which ends at the Sagamore Bridge. The Sagamore Bridge is best used to access all the Cape towns and the island of Nantucket, but not Falmouth or the island of Martha's Vineyard. For those destinations, plus parts of Bourne, the best route from Logan Airport is I-93 to Route 24 to I-495, which turns into Route 25 near the Bourne Bridge.

From Providence, Rhode Island, take I-195 all the way to Route 25 and the Bourne Bridge.

The average visitor to Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket won't need a car, but some rent cars or jeeps in order to drive on certain beaches.

By Bus

From Boston, Peter Pan Bus Lines stops in Bourne, Falmouth, Woods Hole, and Hyannis. It’s about a 1 1/2-hour trip from Boston’s South Station to Falmouth (one-way adult fare $31). Frequent Plymouth & Brockton buses from Boston stop at Sagamore, Barnstable, and Hyannis; changes buses at Hyannis to get to several Lower Cape towns en route to Provincetown. It takes 1 3/4 hours from South Station to Hyannis (one-way adult fare $21).

Greyhound buses (www.greyhound.com) from New York City to Hyannis cost $34 to $61 and take anywhere from 6[bf]3/4 hours to 9 hours; service continues on to Provincetown, which takes over 9 hours but costs as little as $25.

From Logan to Hyannis takes about 2 hours on the P&B; to Provincetown it's about 3 1/2 hours (including the transfer in Hyannis).

The proliferation of cheap intercity bus services in the Northeast (Bolt Bus; Megabus; and various Chinatown bus companies) means that you can catch a bus from almost every major city in the Northeast to Boston, sometimes for as little as $15, and from there pick up the P&B to the Cape.

The fare from Logan to Provincetown on P&B is $63 round-trip, $35 one-way; it's $52 round-trip and $29 one-way from South Station in Boston. To Hyannis it's $45 round-trip from Logan, $25 one-way; $34 from South Street Station round-trip, and $17 one-way.

Note: If you plan to catch a ferry, don't count on the bus arriving on time (there's no telling what the traffic may do). Plan to take the second-to-last ferry of the day, so you have a backup -- and even so, schedule your arrival with an hour to spare.

By Car

Visitors from the south (New York, for example) will approach the Cape Cod Canal via I-95 to I-195 to Route 25 and over the Bourne Bridge. There are two routes to Cape Cod: from Boston and the South Shore via Route 3; and from everywhere else via I-495 or coastal I-195, which both feed into Route 25 for the last few miles. Route 3 crosses into Cape Cod via the Sagamore Bridge; Route 25 enters over the Bourne Bridge. Traffic at both bridges slows to a hellish crawl (if that fast) at the start and end of every summer weekend. You’ve been warned.

The bridges are only 3 miles apart, with connecting roads on both sides of the canal, so either bridge will do. The best option will depend on where you're going. If you're planning to head south to Falmouth or take a ferry to Martha's Vineyard, you'll want to take the Bourne Bridge and follow Route 28 about 10 miles to Falmouth. If you're heading farther east of the Sagamore Bridge to any of the other 14 towns on the Cape or to Nantucket, you'll want to travel over the Sagamore Bridge and take Route 6 or its scenic sidekick, the meandering Route 6A, which merges with Route 28 in Orleans. From Orleans the main road is Route 6 all the way to Provincetown.

Those traveling to Nantucket should take the Sagamore Bridge and drive down Route 6 until reaching exit 7. From there you can follow signs to one of the two ferry terminals (Steamship Authority or Hy-Line), both on Hyannis Inner Harbor.
The limited-access Mid-Cape Highway (Route 6) runs down the spine of the Cape, from the Sagamore Bridge to Eastham, where it continues as a conventional road on to Provincetown, 63 miles from Sagamore. It’s the fastest way to cover long distances, but until Eastham, it has no beachy charm. For that you’ll have to go to Route 6A, which traces the north coast (on Cape Cod Bay) or Route 28, which follows the south coast (on Nantucket Sound). And yes, those too get choked with traffic at times in the height of summer.

The big challenge, actually, is getting over either bridge, especially on summer weekends, when upward of 100,000 cars all try to cross at once. Savvy residents avoid at all costs driving onto the Cape on Friday afternoon or joining the mass exodus on Sunday (or Mon, in the case of a holiday weekend), and you'd be wise to follow suit. Call SmarTraveler (tel. 617/374-1234, or cellular *1) for up-to-the-minute news on congestion and alternate routes, as well as parking availability in the pay-per-night parking lots that serve the island ferries.

Traffic can throw a major monkey wrench into these projections, but on average, driving time from New York to Hyannis is 5 hours (with no traffic) to 7 hours; and to drive from Boston to Hyannis is 1 1/2 to 2 hours. It'll take about a half hour to 45 minutes more to drive all the way to Provincetown.

Traffic can be a nightmare on peak weekends. Cars are enough of a bother on the Cape itself: If you're not planning to cover much ground, forego the "convenience" and rent a bike instead (some B&Bs offer "loaners"). On the islands, cars are superfluous. Cars are expensive to ferry back and forth ($200 one-way to Nantucket in season, and that's if you manage to make a reservation months, even a year, in advance or are willing to sit in "standby" for many hours). They'll also prove a nuisance in the crowded port towns, where urban-style gridlock is not uncommon. Should you change your mind and decide to go motoring once you arrive, you can rent a car or jeep (for off-roading) on the islands for less than the cost of bringing your own vehicle over.

If you do come by car, have a mechanic check it out beforehand. If you're a member of the American Automobile Association (AAA; tel. 800/222-4357) or another national auto club, call beforehand to ask about travel insurance, towing services, free trip planning, and other services that may be available.

For listings of the national car rental agencies with branches on Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket,

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these, as they can add a significant cost to your car rental.

Many rental car agencies require drivers to be 25 years old. Drivers between 21 to 25 years of age will pay an additional daily "age differential" fee.

Fuel Costs  -- The cost of U.S. gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol), varies widely. Cape Cod has some of the highest prices in the country, swinging up in recent years to $4 per gallon -- and even higher on the islands of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Taxes are already included in the posted price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Fill-up locations are known as gas or service stations.

A Word About Traffic -- Cape Cod traffic is nothing if not predictable. You do not want to be driving over the Bourne or Sagamore bridges onto the Cape on a summer Friday between 4 and 8pm. Saturday between 10am and 3pm is an equally bad time to arrive. Most of all, you do not want to try to get off the Cape on a Sunday or a holiday Monday between 2 and 8pm, when traffic can back up nearly 20 miles from the Sagamore Bridge. If you find yourself in one of the infamous Cape Cod traffic jams, there are options. Here are my personal traffic-beating tips.

1. The Bourne Bridge is almost always a less crowded route than the Sagamore Bridge. You can connect to Route 6 from the Bourne Bridge via the canal road, or see number 3 below.

2. When heading off the Cape on Route 6, turn off at exit 5. Take Route 149 south to Route 28. At the Mashpee Rotary, take Route 151 to Route 28 in North Falmouth. Take Route 28 to the Bourne Bridge.

3. To get onto the Cape to points east of Yarmouth, follow step 2 above in reverse.

4. If you are traveling to Nantucket and plan to park your car in Hyannis, watch the signs on Route 6 to see which parking lot is open. If the Brooks Road lot is open, there is no need to drive all the way to the ferry terminal. Instead you will park your car at the lot, which is off Route 28, and take a free shuttle bus to the terminal. Knowing in advance which lot you will park in will save you a lot of time in the long run.

5. If you are heading to Martha's Vineyard from points south, such as New York or Connecticut, consider taking a passenger ferry from Rhode Island or New Bedford. Otherwise be alert to the signs on Route 28 about parking lots. These signs are accurate. If they say the lot is full in Woods Hole, you will not be allowed to park there, so don't bother driving down to check it out. Follow the signs to the open parking lots, and a free shuttle bus will take you to the ferry.

By Train

Launched in 2013, the Cape Flyer (tel. 508/775-8504) train runs summer weekend service to Hyannis from Boston; the trip from South Station to Hyannis takes 2 hours and 20 minutes, and costs $22 one-way, $40 round-trip; kids 11 and under ride free, seniors pay half-price. The sleek trains have free Wi-Fi and a cafe car, and passengers can bring bikes and pets on board for free.

By Boat

Arriving by water to Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, or even Provincetown gives you a chance to decompress from city worries, while taking in glorious views both coming and going. All the ferries are equipped to carry bikes, for about $12 round-trip.

From mid-May to Labor Day, Bay State Cruises runs high-speed (90 min.) and conventional (3 hr.) ferries from Boston to Provincetown; a one-way adult fare is $60 to $63 for the fast ferry, $30 for the regular ferry. Boston Harbor Cruises also operates a 90-minute fast ferry service from Boston to Provincetown; the one-way adult fare is $61, round-trip $93. Reservations are a must on this popular boat.

To Martha's Vineyard -- The three "down-island" ports of Martha's Vineyard are hooked up to the Cape and mainland in various ways. Oak Bluffs has the busiest harbor in season. It's served by the Hy-Line from Hyannis or Nantucket (tel. 800/492-8082), the Island Queen from Falmouth Harbor (tel. 508/548-4800), and the state-run Steamship Authority car ferry from Woods Hole (tel. 508/477-8600).

Edgartown is serviced by the Falmouth Ferry Service, a passengers-only ferry called the Pied Piper (tel. 508/548-9400), which leaves from the west side of Falmouth Harbor and makes a 1-hour crossing (six crossings a day in season). It costs about twice as much as the other ferries to the Vineyard. Vineyard Haven welcomes Steamship Authority car and passenger ferries from Woods Hole year-round (more than 20 crossings a day on weekends in season). If you want to bring your car, you'll need a reservation (tel. 508/477-8600), although limited standby space is available for those willing to wait around, except during peak-demand stretches in summer. Car-free passengers do not need a reservation.

From Falmouth, the Island Queen makes the quickest crossing, in about 35 minutes.

Round-trip fares from Falmouth or Woods Hole to Martha's Vineyard range from about $16 to $40, depending on the distance, and the round-trip rate for cars in season is $135 to $155. Parking costs $12 to $30 per day, depending on the ferry company. Including all of the ferry services, there are dozens of crossings a day from the Cape to the Vineyard in summer.

Hy-Line runs a year-round high-speed ferry to Martha's Vineyard from Hyannis in 55 minutes. In season there are five trips a day, and the round-trip fare is $71 for adults and $48 for children. The traditional ferry makes the trip in season only once per day, takes 1 hour 35 minutes, and costs $45 for adults for round-trip tickets. Children 12 and under are free.

From New Bedford, Massachusetts, the fast ferry MV Seastreak travels to Martha's Vineyard in 1 hour. It makes six trips a day in season, 7 days a week. A ticket costs $70 round-trip for adults; $40 round-trip for children 12 and under; and $62 round-trip for seniors. Contact New England Fast Ferry for details (tel. 866/683-3779).

From North Kingstown, Rhode Island, to Oak Bluffs on Martha's Vineyard, the company Vineyard Fast Ferry runs its high-speed catamaran, Millennium, two to three round-trips daily from mid-June through October. The trip takes 90 minutes. Rates are $81 round-trip for adults, $57 round-trip for children 4 to 12. The ferry service can also set up shuttle service between Providence Airport or the nearest Amtrak station and the ferry terminal starting at $18 each way. Reservations for the ferry and/or the shuttle can be made by calling tel. 401/295-4040 or visiting their website at www.vineyardfastferry.com.

To Nantucket -- Two competing high-speed ferries shuttle between Nantucket and Hyannis; both are passengers-only and take 1 hour. The MV Grey Lady, Hy-Line's high-speed catamaran, costs $75 round-trip, $39 one-way for adults; $51 round-trip, $29 one-way for children (tel. 800/492-8082).

The Steamship Authority runs its own high-speed catamaran, the Iyanough, which costs $67 round-trip for adults and $34 round-trip for children (tel. 508/477-8600).

Both the Steamship Authority and Hy-Line also run slow ferries (2 1/4 hr.) to Nantucket. The Steamship Authority charges $33 round-trip, and Hy-Line charges $43 round-trip. Incidentally, transporting a car costs an astronomical $400 round-trip in season -- which makes it pretty silly to bring a car when you consider that the island is only 3 miles wide and 15 miles end to end. A bike (bring your own or rent on-island) will more than suffice.

Ferries also travel to Nantucket from Harwich Port by the Freedom Cruise Line (tel. 508/432-8999), which makes three trips a day in season and one trip a day in spring and fall. It costs $74 round-trip for adults, $51 for children.

Certain frenzy usually accompanies the ferry departures, but if you arrive about an hour early, you should have plenty of time to drop off your luggage at the pier beforehand, so you won't have to lug it around. Call SmarTraveler or listen to radio station 1610 AM to find out what's up and whether traffic is clogged. The Steamship Authority boats offer a luggage trolley, which often fills to capacity a half-hour or more before departure, so it pays to get there early. The Hy-Line staff cheerfully attends to all the loading of luggage and bikes. It's a lot less hassle.

Note: See the note on bus-ferry connections under "By Bus," above. The same holds true for return journeys: Ferry arrival times tend to be more reliable, but give yourself plenty of time, and don't take a chance on the last bus of the day.

Travel Times to Cape Cod & the Islands

New York to Hyannis (by bus or car) 5-7 hours, depending on traffic

Boston to Hyannis 1 1/2 hours, with no traffic

Sagamore Bridge to Orleans 45 minutes off season; up to 2 hours high season

Sagamore Bridge to Provincetown 1 1/4 hours, with little traffic

Hyannis to Sagamore Bridge 30 minutes; Sunday afternoons in season, 2 hours

Bourne Bridge to Woods Hole 35 minutes; Friday afternoons in season, 1 1/4 hours

Hyannis to Nantucket by plane 20 minutes

Hyannis to Nantucket by Steamship Authority or Hy-Line high-speed catamaran 1 hour

Hyannis to Nantucket by slow Steamship Authority or Hy-Line ferries 2 1/4 hours

Woods Hole to Martha's Vineyard aboard the Steamship Authority ferries 45 minutes

Falmouth to Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard, aboard the Pied Piper 1 hour

Falmouth to Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard, aboard the Island Queen 35 minutes

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The telephone area code for the Cape and islands is 508. You must always dial tel. 1 and this area code first, even if you are making a call within the same town.

Business Hours -- Business hours in public and private offices are usually Monday to Friday from 8 or 9am to 5pm. Most stores are open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 or 10am to 5:30 or 6pm; many are also open on Sunday from noon to 5pm or earlier. The exception is Provincetown, where many stores are open until 10 or 11pm. Most every town has some kind of convenience store carrying food, beverages, newspapers, and household basics; the larger communities have supermarkets, which generally stay open as late as 10 or 11pm, up to 24 hours.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

Bars are allowed to stay open until 1am daily, with last call at 12:30am. Beer and wine are sold at grocery stores as well as package stores; hard liquor is available at package stores only. A few towns on Martha's Vineyard are dry by choice or tradition (no alcohol can be sold or served), but at most establishments lacking a liquor license, you're welcome to bring your own wine or beer. If in doubt, call ahead. One town, Vineyard Haven, also known as Tisbury, made the switch from dry to wet in 2010.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or in any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI ("driving under the influence"), so don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you if you're visiting from overseas. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel or B&B supplies them.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212), or log on to www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). There are consulates in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See the website for a complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- In an emergency, call tel. 911.

Fishing -- A new state law requires a license for saltwater fishing. Previously, licenses were needed only for freshwater fishing and shellfishing. The new license costs $10. To get a license, go online to www.mass.gov/marinefisheries or call tel. 866/703-1925.

Hospitals -- The Cape Cod Hospital, at 27 Park St., Hyannis (tel. 508/771-1800), offers 24-hour emergency medical service and consultation, as does the Falmouth Hospital, at 100 Ter Heun Dr. (tel. 508/548-5300). On the islands, contact the Martha's Vineyard Hospital, on Linton Lane, in Oak Bluffs (tel. 508/693-0410), or Nantucket Cottage Hospital, at 57 Prospect St. (tel. 508/825-8100).

Insurance -- One thing to keep in mind when visiting the Cape and islands is that there are no refunds for bad weather. Most hotels and inns in the region give details about their cancellation policies when you book. Some will refund your money if you cancel more than a month before the trip and they are able to rebook the room. Some people would rather rely on travel insurance.

Medical Insurance: International visitors to the U.S. should note that unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Packages, such as Europ Assistance's "Worldwide Healthcare Plan," are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States.

Though lack of health insurance may prevent you from being admitted to a hospital in a nonemergency, don't worry about being left on a street corner to die: The American way is to fix you now and bill the daylights out of you later.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated in the United States.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com). For additional information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 94¢ (72¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs 94¢ (72¢ to Canada and Mexico). For more information, go to www.usps.com and click on "Calculate a Price."

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit http://zip4.usps.com.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Enterprise Newspaper Group publishes the Barnstable Enterprise, Falmouth Enterprise, Bourne Enterprise, Sandwich Enterprise, and Mashpee Enterprise, good resources for travelers visiting those towns. The Cape Cod Times is published daily and runs regular supplements listing local events, arts and entertainment, and restaurant reviews. In addition, several other towns have their own weekly local paper. Martha's Vineyard has two weekly papers, the Martha's Vineyard Times and the Vineyard Gazette, each offering insight into local issues. Nantucket has The Nantucket Inquirer and Mirror (nicknamed "the Inky"). Cape Cod Life is a glossy bimonthly, with beautiful photography of the area. Each island has its own glossy. Provincetown Arts, published yearly, is a must for those interested in local arts and letters. In addition, a great many summer-guide magazines are available (don't expect much new information), and free booklets with discount coupons are ubiquitous; the nicest of these, with a friendly tone and a lot of useful information, is the Cape Cod Guide.

Packing -- For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- For police emergencies, call tel. 911.

Smoking -- In the past few years, all of Cape Cod and most of the island towns have gone "smoke-free" to some extent. The towns of Falmouth, Barnstable, Yarmouth, Dennis, Brewster, Chatham, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, and Provincetown, and the islands of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, have all passed some variation on laws forbidding smoking in public places as a way to protect nonsmokers from secondhand smoke. This means that in the majority of restaurants and bars in these towns, you cannot light up. A few bars have installed a ventilation system and/or a separate area where smoking is allowed, but these are few and far between. While some large hotels set aside rooms for smokers, the vast majority of lodging establishments on Cape Cod are nonsmoking. There is one establishment in Barnstable where smoking is currently allowed. At Puff the Magic, 649 Main St., Hyannis (tel. 508/771-9090), a cigar bar where no food is served, you can smoke to your heart's discontent.

On Martha's Vineyard, all restaurants are smoke-free except those in Oak Bluffs and Edgartown that have separately enclosed and ventilated bar areas. Vineyard Haven, also known as Tisbury, allows drinking but does not have any separate bar areas. Because the three other towns on the Vineyard are "dry," meaning no alcohol can be sold, there are no bars in those towns and, therefore, no smoking at all in restaurants. There is also no smoking allowed in the common areas of inns on the Vineyard. There may be some inns where certain rooms are designated for smokers, and visitors wishing to smoke should inquire when they book their rooms.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. In Massachusetts the state sales tax is 6.25%. This tax applies to all goods, with the exception of clothing items priced lower than $175. The commonwealth of Massachusetts has a meals tax of between 5% and 5.5%, depending on the town. The hotel tax also varies in the 15 Cape Cod towns plus the towns on Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, with the combination of state and local taxes totaling between 9.7%. and 11.7%, depending on the town.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage), and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- Public toilets or "restrooms" are relatively rare on the Cape and islands, but they can be found in the most touristy areas. Falmouth, Hyannis, Chatham, and Provincetown have public restrooms on their main streets. Falmouth's public restrooms are in Peg Noonan Park near the library, and Hyannis's are behind the JFK Hyannis Museum near town hall. Provincetown's are on Macmillan Pier, and Chatham's are on Main Street near the central parking area. There are public restrooms at all transportation facilities, like ferry terminals (Hyannis, Woods Hole, Nantucket; Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven on Martha's Vineyard), bus terminals (Hyannis and Falmouth), and airports (Hyannis, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, Provincetown). Edgartown on the Vineyard has a restroom in its visitor center on Church Street off Main Street. In addition, many chambers of commerce have restrooms available for visitors. You will find fast-food restaurants on main thoroughfares of a number of Cape towns (on Rte. 132 in Hyannis, for example), and those restrooms are open to the public, though you may need to make a small purchase. The Cape Cod Mall in Hyannis also has restrooms, as do a number of large stores in Hyannis. Using the restrooms in bars and restaurants is usually reserved for patrons, but if you buy something (even a soft drink or snack), you can usually use the facilities. Some gas stations also have public restrooms.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.). U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518. U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Travelers' Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559.

Water -- The water is drinkable throughout the Cape and islands, though residents tend to prefer bottled water, available in all grocery stores and convenience stores.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Though the Cape and, especially, the islands might seem pricey compared to nontourist areas, visitors used to city prices will find costs quite reasonable; you can get by on very little if you don't need luxury. Most of the nicer rooms fall between $250 and $350 a night in summer, half that in the off season. Restaurant prices offer just as wide a range. You could dine on clam rolls, for instance, at less than $14 a head, or blow that much or more on a mere appetizer. With such a great variety of dining styles available everywhere, the choice is yours.

Every town on the Cape has multiple ATMs (automated teller machines), sometimes referred to as "cash machines," or "cashpoints." These are the easiest and best source of cash when you're away from home.

You can use your major credit cards pretty much everywhere on the Cape and islands; the exceptions might be some smaller stores or eateries (we indicate in the review of the place whether it's cash only). Visitors from outside the U.S. should inquire whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad. It's highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have one to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost on Cape Cod (US$ - High Season)

Taxi from Logan Airport to Falmouth $200 (includes tip)

Bus ticket from Logan to Falmouth $30 (one-way)

Bus fare between towns on Martha's Vineyard $3

1-week beach parking pass, Orleans $50

Bike rental, Cape Cod Rail Trail $18 (3 hr.)

1 lb. of taffy from Cape Cod Salt Water Taffy, Yarmouth $8.99

Cup of coffee at the Corner Store, Chatham $1.50

Double at Cliffside Beach Club, Nantucket (Very Expensive) $450-$710

Double at the Acworth Inn, Barnstable Village (Moderate) $149-$169

Double at Old Sea Pines Inn, Brewster (Inexpensive) $110-$165

Dinner for two at the Red Inn, Provincetown (Very Expensive) $100

Dinner for two at The Brewster Fish House (Expensive) $80

Dinner for two at Among the Flowers Café, Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard (Moderate) $40

Dinner for two at Marshland Restaurant on 6A, Sandwich (Inexpensive) $25

Tips for Families

Basically a giant sandbox with a fringe of waves, the Cape and islands are ideal family vacation spots. A number of the larger hotels and motels offer deals whereby kids can share their parent's room for free. But beware of the fancier B&Bs: Although it's illegal for them to do so, some actively discriminate against children. The kinds that do are apt to be the kind that children dislike, so it's no great loss. For the most part, the local tourism industry is big on serving family needs, so there's not much you'll need to do by way of advance preparation.

When to Go

Once strictly a warm-weather destination, the Cape and islands traditionally open the season with a splash on Memorial Day weekend and shutter up come Labor Day. The official beginning of summer is heralded by the Figawi sailboat race on Memorial Day weekend. Traffic all over the Cape is horrendous on this last weekend in May, and ferries are booked solid. It's a rowdy party weekend, but then, strangely, things slow down for a few weeks until late June. The weekend closest to July 4th is another major mob scene, when summer really gets rolling. It's no wonder that July is the second-busiest month of the year and August is by far the most popular month for visiting the region: You are fairly guaranteed good beach weather these 2 months, and the Atlantic Ocean warms to comfortable swimming temperatures. Summer comes to an end with Labor Day, a heavily trafficked weekend you'll probably want to avoid.

Shoulder Seasons

Cape Cod now welcomes more and more tourists to witness the tender blossoms of spring and the fiery foliage of autumn. During these shoulder seasons, lodging tends to cost less, and a fair number of restaurants and attractions remain open. Most important, traffic is manageable. In addition, the natives seem far more accommodating in the off season, and shopping bargains abound.

In the past few years, a number of entertaining town festivals and events have attracted crowds in the spring and fall. Spring brings daffodil festivals, and fall brings cranberry, arts, and harvest festivals. Unless your idea of the perfect vacation requires a swim in the ocean, you may be better off with the smaller crowds and better deals of the shoulder months: May, June, September, or October.

Off Season

November and December don't quite qualify as "off season" on the Cape and islands. In fact, some say the most crowded time on Nantucket is during the Christmas Stroll in early December; it kicks off a month of holiday events. Martha's Vineyard also rolls out the red carpet in December with events in Edgartown and Vineyard Haven, such as Santa's arrival on the ferry. Many towns on the Cape, such as Sandwich, Osterville, Falmouth, and Chatham, also have big holiday festivals. The holidays are quite popular for family gatherings on the Cape and islands.

Tourist-oriented establishments on the Cape and islands traditionally close during the coldest months, but some tough out the quietest season -- January through March. It's a rare treat to enjoy the region's historic towns and pristine landscapes with almost no one but natives about. To avoid disappointment in the off season, however, always be sure to call ahead to check schedules.

Climate

The Gulf Stream renders the Cape and islands generally about 10° warmer in winter than the mainland, and offshore winds keep them about 10° cooler in summer (you'll probably need a sweater most evenings). The only downside of being surrounded by water is the other wet stuff: no, not rain, fog! Typically it's sunny about 2 days out of 3 -- not bad odds. And the foggy days can be rather romantic. Pack some good books for when it pours. Check out www.ackweather.com for up-to-date wind, surf, and tide conditions for the Cape and islands.

Summer -- The first few weeks of June can be a perfect time to visit the region, but be forewarned: You may need to request a room with a fireplace. Weather this time of year, particularly on the Outer Cape, can be unpredictable at best; at worst it's cold and rainy. Don't count on swimming in the ocean unless you're a member of the Polar Bear Club. Late June weather is usually lovely. July and August can be perfect -- sunny and breezy -- or damp, foggy, and humid. Usually, it's a combination of the two.

Autumn -- On Cape Cod, it usually starts feeling like fall a week or two after Labor Day. September and October are splendid: Leaves start to change color, roads start to unclog, and everyone seems happier. The ocean retains enough heat to make for bearable swimming during the sunny days of Indian summer, and the subtly varied hues of the trees and moors are always changing, always lovely. Day temperatures are perfect for long hikes along the seashore. By October you'll need a sweater during the day, and evenings can be downright chilly. But this is a lovely time of year on the Cape and islands.

Winter -- It's not supposed to snow on Cape Cod, but it does. In recent years, some towns have had more than 100 inches. During a recent winter, the Cape received virtually no snow until a surprise blizzard on April 1. January, February, and March tend to be on the bleak side. This is when a lot of locals head south to sunnier climes.

Spring -- April is a cheerful time on the Cape and islands, and daffodil festivals abound. During May and June, the entire Cape blooms. Gardening goes way beyond hobby in this gentle climate, and blooms are profuse from May right through the summer. But springtime weather can be rainy, and the Atlantic Ocean is bone-chillingly cold.

Getting Around

By Car

Once you've made it over one of the bridges guarding the Cape Cod Canal -- or bypassed the bridges by flying or boating in -- getting around is relatively easy. Traveling by car does offer the greatest degree of flexibility, although you'll probably wish no one else knew that. Traffic is frustrating enough, but parking is yet another problem. In densely packed towns, such as Provincetown, finding a free, legal space is like winning the lottery. Parking is also problematic at many beaches. Some are closed to all but residents, and visitors will almost always have to pay a day rate of about $10 to $20. Renters staying a week or longer can arrange for a discounted weeklong or month-long sticker through the local town hall (you'll probably need to show your lease, as well as your car registration). You can usually squeeze into the Cape Cod National Seashore lots if you show up early (by 9am); here the fee is only $15 a day, or $45 per season.

Further complicating the heavy car traffic on the Cape is the seemingly disproportionate number of bad drivers. A few key traffic rules: A right turn is allowed at a red light after stopping, unless otherwise posted. In a rotary (think traffic circle with Boston drivers), cars within the circle have the right of way until they manage to get out. Four-way stops call for extreme caution or extreme courtesy, and sometimes both.

Rental cars are available at the Hyannis Airport and at branch offices of major chains in several towns. The usual maze of rental offers prevails. Almost every rental firm tries to pad its profits by selling loss-damage waiver (LDW) insurance at a cost of $8 to $15 extra per day. Before succumbing to the hard sell, check with your insurance carrier and credit card companies; chances are you're already covered. If not, the LDW may prove a wise investment. Exorbitant charges for gasoline are another ploy to look out for; be sure to top off the tank just before bringing the car in.

Certain car rental agencies have also set maximum ages or may refuse to rent to those with bad driving records. If such restrictions might affect you, ask about requirements when you book to avoid problems later.

It's worthwhile to call around to the various rental companies to compare prices and to inquire about any discounts available (members of AAA or AARP, for instance, may be eligible for reduced rates). The national companies represented on the Cape and islands include Avis (tel. 800/331-1212), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131), National (tel. 800/227-7368), and Thrifty (tel. 800/367-2277).

Internet resources can make comparison-shopping easier. Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) and Expedia (www.expedia.com) help you compare prices and locate car rental bargains from various companies nationwide. They will even make your reservation for you once you've found the best deal. Also check out BreezeNet.com, which offers domestic car rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around. For additional car rental agencies,

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license.

By Bus

To discourage congestion and provide a pleasant experience, a growing number of towns offer free or low-cost in-town shuttles in season. You'll find such services in Falmouth, Woods Hole, Mashpee, Hyannis, Dennis, Yarmouth, Harwich, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket. Each town's chamber of commerce can fill you in, or call the Cape Cod Regional Transit Authority (tel. 800/352-7155; www.capecodtransit.org).

By Bike

The bicycle is the ideal conveyance for the Cape and islands, for distances great and small. The Cape has some extremely scenic bike paths, including the glorious Cape Cod Rail Trail, which meanders through seven towns for more than 25 miles. Two wheels are the best way to explore Nantucket's flat terrain, and scenic bike routes run through all six towns on Martha's Vineyard. You'll find a rental shop in just about every town -- or better yet, bring your own.

Helmets for Your Health! -- There's one key health precaution you can take if you plan to do any bicycling while on the Cape and islands: Wear a helmet. In Massachusetts children 12 and under are required to wear one. All the good bike shops rent helmets as well, and those few extra bucks could save your life.

By Moped

They're legal on the islands and can be rented at many bicycle shops, but locals loathe them: They're noisy, polluting, traffic-clogging, and a menace both to their riders and to innocent bystanders. In other words, caveat emptor, and expect dirty looks.

By Taxi

You'll find taxi stands at most airports and ferry terminals. The islands also offer jitney services with set rates, such as Adam Cab, on Martha's Vineyard (tel. 800/281-4462 or 508/627-4462), and Chief's Cab, on Nantucket (tel. 508/284-8497). Several offer bike racks or can arrange for bike transportation with advance notice -- call around until you find what you need. Some companies offer sightseeing tours. Among the larger taxi fleets on the Cape are Falmouth Taxi (tel. 508/548-3100), Hyannis Taxi Service (tel. 508/775-0400), and Provincetown's Mercedes Cab (tel. 508/487-3333), which delivers elegance at no extra charge. Other cab companies are listed in the Yellow Pages, as are limousine liveries.