Planning a trip to Cape Town
Cape Town, the oldest city in southern Africa, is regularly heralded as one of the most beautiful on Earth. The massive sandstone bulk of Table Mountain, often draped in a flowing "tablecloth" of clouds, forms an imposing backdrop, while minutes away, pristine sandy beaches line the cliff-hugging coast. Mountainous slopes sustaining the world's most varied botanic kingdom (some 9,000 species strong) overlook fertile valleys carpeted with vines. As you drive away from the highway, you can spot zebra and wildebeest grazing unperturbed by the hubbub below. The place has the uncanny ability to make everyone feel at home. Every year brings a slew of new awards and recognition.
Situated in the country's far-southwestern corner, Cape Town is physically separated from the rest of the continent by a barrier of mountains. It feels -- and is -- very different from the rest of Africa (so much so that during the 2009 national election campaign, a group calling itself the Cape Party campaigned with a call for regional independence). The hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters are Mediterranean, while the Atlantic Ocean remains icy throughout the year. It is by far the most cosmopolitan city in Southern Africa, and you're as likely to hear locals speak German and French as you are Afrikaans, English, and Xhosa. Unique, too, is the architectural heritage -- a multifaceted colonial past gave us Cape Dutch homesteads, neo-Gothic churches, Muslim minarets, and Georgian and Victorian terraces that punctuate an evolving Art Deco and brutalist cityscape where cranes seem to be ever in motion.
Inevitably, colonialism has left its mark on the residents of Cape Town as well; the majority of the population is made up of the mixed-blood descendants of European settlers, Asian slaves, and indigenous people. This Afrikaans-speaking group is referred to as the "coloureds" -- a divisive designation conferred during the apartheid era, when those of mixed race were relocated behind Table Mountain into the grim eastern interior plain known as the Cape Flats. Since the scrapping of influx control in 1986, this area has seen phenomenal growth, and today squatter towns form a seamless ribbon of cardboard-and-corrugated-iron housing that many visitors only glimpse on their way from or to the airport; for real insight into contemporary South African society, though, you'll want to join an eye-opening cultural tour of these townships, where you're likely to discover common ground through music, food, or humor.
Cape Town's newest residents come from the poverty-stricken Eastern Cape; others hail from as far afield as Somalia, Angola, and Mozambique, making it one of South Africa's fastest-growing cities. Unfortunately, the gangster-ridden Cape Flats have also made it one of the most violent. Although violent crime is mostly contained in these areas, visitors to Cape Town should take the same precautions they would in any large city -- don't wear expensive jewelry or flash fancy cameras, and don't let your credit card out of your sight; in the buildup to the much-anticipated 2010 FIFA World Cup championships, great strides have been made in tourist security, but organized crime syndicates will be eyeing the blossoming city with avarice.
Many who come to Cape Town choose to just whip straight out from the airport to the Winelands, where you can stay amid some of the best-preserved examples of Cape Dutch architecture, sample award-winning wines, and play golf on a variety of gorgeous courses. This area makes a great base if you're looking for a relaxing, rural escape, with the bright lights of the city a mere 60-minute drive away; the coastal town of Hermanus, capital of the Whale Coast, a 70-minute drive away; and the lakes, lagoons, and forests of the Garden Route an easy 4- to 5-hour drive along the N2. Alternatively, visit the Winelands or Whale Coast as a day trip, and base yourself here, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, where the sun sets on an unbelievably azure sea. Regardless of where you choose to stay, you will leave Cape Town wishing you had more time to explore, so plan your stay, then add at least 2 more days or a week, if possible.
Visitor Information
You'll find a Cape Town tourism desk at the airport (tel. 021/935-3160; international terminus daily 7am-5pm, domestic daily 8am-midnight), but the best place to gather information is at Cape Town Tourism, in the city center at the corner of Burg and Castle streets (tel. 021/487-6800; www.capetown.travel; Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 8:30am-2pm, Sun 9am-1pm). Knowledgeable staff can assist with anything from specialized tour bookings to transport queries and general information. You'll also find a wine bar, where you can do wine tastings and arrange for exports, a foreign-exchange desk, a VAT desk (to claim back the tax on certain purchases;), and an Internet cafe. There are hundreds of brochures, but look for the Footsteps to Freedom Cape Town City Guide, which has a good map covering the top sites, as well as the series of special-interest maps. Shuttles to the city's top attractions, the hop-on, hop-off Cape Town Explorer bus, and city walking tours depart regularly from here.
A satellite tourism office at the Waterfront Clock Tower (tel. 021/408-7600) has similar services and longer hours (9am-9pm), and there are many more information offices scattered throughout the region, including one at the Table Mountain lower cableway station (tel. 021/422-1075).
The Netcare Travel Clinic, 1107 Picbell Parkade, 58 Strand St. (tel. 021/419-3172; www.travelclinic.co.za) offers expert advice and medical services (inoculations, malaria tablets), should you be traveling farther afield. MTI Medi-Travel International (tel. 021/419-1888; www.meditravel.co.za) has similar services, but you may find its Waterfront Clock Tower location more convenient.
Fast Facts
American Express -- Main local offices are in the city center at Thibault Square (tel. 021/425-7991) and at the Waterfront, Shop 11A, in Alfred Mall (tel. 021/419-3917). City center hours are from 8:30am to 4:30pm Monday through Friday. Waterfront hours are from 9am to 7pm Monday through Friday, and from 10am to 5pm Saturday and Sunday.
Area Code -- The area code for Cape Town and the Winelands is 021.
Babysitting -- Contact Supersitters (tel. 021/552-1220; www.supersitters.net; R45 per hour 7pm-midnight; R58 per hour all other times).
Bookstores -- Cape Town's best is The Book Lounge. The biggest commercial outlets are Exclusive Books (tel. 021/419-0905) and Wordworth Books (tel. 021/425-6880), both in Victoria Wharf at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront.
Doctors & Dentists -- Call tel. 021/671-3634 or 021/671-2924 for a 24-hour referral service. Or try SAA Netcare Travel Clinic (tel. 021/419-3172) or MTI Medi-Travel International, in the Clock Tower, Waterfront (tel. 021/419-1888).
Embassies & Consulates -- U.S.: 2 Reddam Ave., Westlake (tel. 021/702-7300); Canada: 19th Floor, Reserve Bank Building, 60 St Georges Mall (tel. 021/423-5240); U.K.: 15th Floor, Southern Life Centre, 8 Riebeeck St. (tel. 021/405-2400).
Emergencies -- For an ambulance or general emergencies, call tel. 10177; for police, call tel. 10111; in case of fire, call tel. 021/535-1100; for a sea rescue, call tel. 021/449-3500; for Mountain Rescue Services, call tel. 021/873-1121.
Hospitals -- Groote Schuur (tel. 021/404-9111), in Observatory, is the Cape's largest hospital. However, for immediate attention in more salubrious surrounds, you're best off heading for a private clinic (this is why medical insurance is recommended). The Chris Barnard Memorial Hospital (tel. 021/480-6111) is in the center of town, at 181 Longmarket St., while the Cape Town Mediclinic (tel. 021/464-5500) is at 21 Hof St., in Gardens. Contact Mediclinic (tel. 021/883-8571) if you're in Stellenbosch.
Hot Lines -- Automobile Association (for vehicle breakdown; tel. 082/161-11); Rape Crisis (tel. 021/447-9762, for 24-hr. advice and counseling).
Internet Access -- There are numerous Internet cafes all over the city (especially on Long and Kloof sts., and along Main Rd. in Sea Point). Just about every hotel and guesthouse in town offers free (or prepaid) Wi-Fi. Cape Town also has a "Free Wi-Fi Super Circuit," whereby a growing number of cafes and restaurants offer up to 20MB worth of free browsing (if you have a laptop), provided by a company called RedButton (tel. 0861/288-866; www.redbutton.co.za).
Newspapers & Magazines -- The morning paper, Cape Times, and the more sensationalist afternoon and evening paper, Argus, are sold at most street corners. You'll find international titles at the Waterfront's bookstores .
Pharmacy -- Lite-Kem (tel. 021/461-8040), 24 Darling St., opposite the city post office, is open Monday through Saturday from 7:30am to 11pm and Sunday from 9am to 11pm. Sunset Pharmacy (tel. 021/434-3333), in Sea Point Medical Centre, Kloof Road, is open daily from 8:30am to 9pm.
Post Office -- The best-located branch, if you want to park easily and get served relatively quickly, is the Vlaeberg branch on Loop Street (corner of Pepper; tel. 021/424-7477), near the center of town. There's also a branch in the Promenade center in Camps Bay. Hours are Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm (Wed from 8:30am) and Saturday from 8am to 1pm. Note that local postal service is notoriously dodgy.
Restrooms -- The city's large population of homeless people means that the hygiene of public restrooms can be of varying quality. You're best off going to a coffee shop or restaurant, or visiting a gas station.
Safety -- The formation of the Central City Improvement District (CCID), the ongoing installation of closed-circuit cameras, a dedicated city police force, and 24-hour care centers for Cape Town's street children has resulted in a drastic reduction in crime in the city center. This is no reason to let down your guard, however. Muggings can be avoided by taking the same precautions you would in any large city -- lose the jewelry and stash the wallet. Be aware of street children, many of whom beg at large intersections and along Long Street at night. Visitors are requested to give them food coupons (inquire at the CCID Kiosks in St George's Mall and Company Gardens) or make a donation to one of the child-care centers rather than giving them cash, which keeps them on the streets. Note that it is inadvisable to pull over and stop on the N2 (the airport highway), and always travel with a cellphone in case your car breaks down. For detailed advice, pick up a brochure on safety from any tourism office.
Weather -- Call tel. 082/231-1640.
Getting Around
Cape Town lies on a narrow peninsula that curls southward into the Atlantic Ocean. Its western and eastern shores are divided by a spinal ridge of mountains, of which Table Mountain is the most dramatic landmark. On the western shore, the relatively small city center, together with the residential suburbs that cradle it, is known as the City Bowl -- the "bowl" created by the table-topped massif as backdrop, flanked by jagged Devil's Peak to the east and the embracing arm of Signal Hill to the west. Upmarket family homes, small businesses, and apartments -- as well as a plethora of excellent guesthouses -- range along these slopes and make up the neighborhoods of Tamboerskloof, Higgovale, Oranjezicht, and Gardens. From here, views north look over the city center and harbor, where the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is situated at the icy waters of Table Bay. On the slopes of Signal Hill, snuggling up close to the center, is the Bo-Kaap (literally, "Upper Cape"), where most of the population are the descendants of Cape Town's original Muslim slaves.
Within easy striking distance of Bo-Kaap, the city center, and the slightly isolated Waterfront, are the dense, built-up suburbs of tiny De Waterkant (arguably Cape Town's most fashionable suburb, and a must-see destination for shoppers who hate malls), and rapidly evolving Victorian-era Green Point, where the rise of the city's much-hyped, visually spectacular soccer stadium -- planned specifically for the 2010 FIFA World Cup -- has brought in untold millions for a total revamp of the area, making this Cape Town's waking giant, with numerous new hotels, restaurants, shops and places to hang out. Adjacent Green Point is the high-density coastal suburb of Sea Point, which has an always-busy, rather rough-and-ready Main Road, lined with shops, bars and eateries, and a generous promenade where Capetonians like to walk and jog during the summer. Between Green Point and the sea, is Mouille Point, which runs into the V&A Waterfront. Moving farther south from Sea Point, the western slopes of the Cape Peninsula mountain range slide almost directly into the sea, and it is here, along the dramatic coastline referred to as the Atlantic seaboard, that you can watch the sun sinking from Africa's most expensive real estate. Of these, the beaches of Camps Bay and Clifton are the most conveniently located -- easily reached from the City Bowl via Kloof Nek, they are a mere 10- to 15-minute drive from the city center (although in summer, traffic can seriously irk). Bakoven is the choice for those of you looking to escape the crowds -- two relatively tiny patches of sand (one called Big Beach, the other Little Beach) are hidden betwixt massive boulders where those in the know congregate for mesmeric, uncrowded sunsets.
Traveling along the Atlantic seaboard is the most scenic route to Cape Point, but the quickest route is to travel south along the eastern flank of the mountain, via the M3, past the southern suburbs of Woodstock, Observatory, Rondebosch, Claremont, Wynberg, Kenilworth, Bishopscourt, and Constantia (the closest wine-producing area to the city, some 30 min. away, Constantia vies with the Atlantic seaboard as real estate gold), and then snake along the False Bay seaboard to the point. These eastern slopes, which overlook False Bay (so called by early sailors who mistook it for Table Bay), are the first to see the sun rise and have price tags way below those in places such as Camps Bay and Clifton. Cutting west across the peninsula from the False Bay seaboard will take you to more sleepy seaside villages, such as Scarborough and neighboring Misty Cliffs, ideal if you want to be right near the unspoiled wilderness of Cape Point and have utterly pristine beaches at your fingertips. Heading north from here, you can complete a "peninsula loop" and arrive back in the city via Hout Bay, Llandudno, and the Atlantic seaboard suburbs.
East of the peninsula are the Cape Flats, where the majority of so-called "Cape coloureds" live, and the "black townships," including Gugulethu, Langa, Nyanga, and Khayalitsha -- proof that, sadly, despite 12 years of democracy, an unenforced geographic apartheid still keeps the Cape's communities effectively separate. These are accessed via the N2, the same highway that provides access to the airport and the Winelands, which lie north of it. Stellenbosch, unofficial capital of the Winelands, is just over an hour's drive from the center of town, and from here the pretty wine-growing valley of Franschhoek, some 85km (53 miles) northeast of Cape Town, is reached via the scenic Helshoogte Pass. A quicker route to Franschhoek is via the northern-bound N1, the highway that connects Cape Town to Paarl, a 40-minute drive from the center of town. Deeper into the Winelands (but no more than 90 min. away) are a number of charming villages surrounded by vineyards, such as Riebeek Kasteel and Tulbagh, the latter where some important heritage architecture competes for attention with spectacular mountain scenery and a choice of wine-tasting venues; turn to the following chapter, on the Western Cape, for information on these.
Consider investing in a detailed street atlas, such as Mapstudio Street Guide, sold at most newsagents; but if you get lost, don't despair: With Table Mountain (and relatively excellent street signage) as a visual guide, it's difficult to stay lost for long.
The city center is small enough to explore on foot, and the city's ongoing makeover (destined to be ready in time for the 2010 FIFA World Cup) includes smart pedestrian walkways and cycling routes that will link the city center with Green Point. The city's upgrade includes a plan to establish a much-awaited integrated public transport system that will link the center and the Waterfront with top attractions such as the Table Mountain cableway, Camps Bay, the southern suburbs, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, False Bay, Cape Point, and the Winelands (although not Tulbagh). However, to move at will and have scope to explore more thoroughly, you'll still be better off renting a car. Beyond the city, with some frustrating exceptions (especially during rush hours in such places as Stellenbosch), roads are relatively uncongested, parking is easy to find, and signs are straightforward.
By Train
Trains are not always reliable, clean, or safe; choose first-class cars with other occupants, and watch your bags. One option I recommend is the spectacular cliff-hugging route along the False Bay seaboard to Simons Town aboard Biggsy's Restaurant Carriage & Wine Bar (tel. 021/788-7760; Tues-Sun, three trips daily), with breakfast, lunch, or snacks en route. Take the breakfast run, and alight at Kalk Bay -- Cape Town's quaintest fishing "village," retaining a distinct character and worth a day exploring -- then catch the lunch or sunset trip back. The return from the city station takes 2 1/2 hours. Note that Biggsy's was closed for renovation at press time, but should be up and running again by late 2009; prior reservations are, in any case, essential, especially on weekends -- only 32 diners can be accommodated.
By Bus
As mentioned, Cape Town is due to have a new integrated transport system in place by mid-2010, with a new fleet of buses operating routes daily from 4:30am to midnight, two major bus stations constructed on Adderley Street and at Hertzog Boulevard, as well as various pedestrian bridges (note that the total pedestrianization of Waterkant St., allowing safe on-foot access from the city to Green Point, is also on the cards). For maps and routes, as well as where to purchase the new prepaid smart card, contact the Cape Town tourism offices.
Until then, the most expedient way to get around the city is with a vulgarly touristy CitySightseeing bus. These open-top hop-on, hop-off circuit buses visit the city's top attractions, departing from the Two Oceans Aquarium between 8:30am and 4:35pm (you don't have to catch it from here; visit www.citysightseeing.co.za for a detailed schedule; R200 buys you a 2-day ticket). A V&A Waterfront bus (tel. 0800/65-6463) leaves from Adderley Street (in front of the station); the trip costs R3.50. Alternatively, head for the tourist bureau, where shuttles depart regularly (maximum 10-min. wait) for the Waterfront (R60), Kirstenbosch (R150), the Table Mountain cable car (R60), and the airport (R160-R200 for one and R20-R40 per person thereafter); hotel pickups can be arranged but may cost extra. Note that around 250 new buses will begin operating soon after press time (to get commuters to Green Point Stadium), when a tourist-friendly transport system will start running; until then, it's better to hail a taxi or call for a Rikki .
By Car
Cape Town is a relatively car-friendly city, with a minimum of traffic jams and enough parking lots to warrant driving into town -- all you need is to keep some change handy and be prepared to pay the mobile meter-carrying attendants up front (rates start at around R3.50 for 30 min.; if you overstay, you can pay in the difference when you return). Apart from the city center and Sea Point's Main Road, there is no charge, but business- or self-appointed "parking attendants" will offer to watch your car; although you are under no obligation to reward them, it is customary to tip those who are clearly hired by local businesses (they will usually wear a bib or hand over a card) on your return; R2 to R7 is fine, but be aware of aggressive and threatening tactics by some of these freelancers.
You'll find numerous car-rental companies in Cape Town. For a cheaper deal, try Penny K's (tel. 072/736-6957; www.pennyks.co.za; from R170 per day) or Value (tel. 021/386-7699; www.valuerentalcar.com; from R189 per day). Both include insurance and unlimited mileage. For a one-way rental to another province, you'll have to use a company with nationwide offices, such as Budget (tel. 086/101-6622) or Hertz (tel. 086/160-0136) -- however, I find Avis (tel. 021/424-1177) the most consistently priced, and great because you can book online without inserting your credit card details (www.avis.co.za). To tool along the coast with the wind in your hair, rent a classic convertible, with or without chauffeur, from Motor Classic (tel. 021/461-7368 or 072/277-5022; www.motorclassic.co.za; from R1,290 per day self-drive) or Cape Cobra Hire (tel. 083/321-9193; www.capecobrahire.co.za).
By Taxi
Metered taxis don't cruise the streets looking for fares; you'll have to phone. Most charge at least R10 per kilometer, but the new Cab Co. (tel. 082/580-9030) charges R9 and is a small, personal operation (so call ahead). Much cheaper than a metered taxi are Rikkis, London-style cabs that keep prices down by continuously picking up and dropping off passengers en route. You pay according to city zones, priced from R20 to R35 (after 7pm, a R5 surcharge applies). These are operational 24/7 and will drop you off anywhere in the center, City Bowl suburbs, the Waterfront, or Camps Bay (tel. 086/174-5547; www.rikkis.co.za). You can also contact Rikkis from dedicated telephones they have set up in locations around the city; if you'd rather not share your fare, you can pay extra for sole use of their cabs. Trips farther afield -- even to Cape Point -- are charged at a flat rate or by the hour. Better still, contact The Green Cab (tel. 086/184-3473 or 082/491-5972; www.thegreencab.co.za), which is Cape Town's first taxi company with a green agenda and an eco-friendly fleet (small seven- and four-seaters that run on liquefied petroleum gas) that operates door-to-door. Drivers are mostly women (it's also entirely woman owned) and, like Rikki's, fares are run on a share-ride system.
By Bike
If you just want to get from the beach to the city, zip around on a sexy scooter from La Dolce Vita Biking, 13D Kloof Nek Rd., Gardens (tel. 083/528-0897; www.ldvbiking.co.za; R120-R165 per day, including unlimited mileage, a helmet, and insurance) -- they also rent motorbikes (R210-R280 per day). If you require more muscle, you can hire a real machine from Motorcycle Tours (tel. 021/794-7887; www.sa-motorcycle-tours.com; prices vary). You can also go top-end by contacting Harley-Davidson Cape Town (tel. 021/446-2999; www.harley-davidson-capetown.com). Bikes go for around R1,100 to R1,300 per day, or R3,250 to R4,400 for a weekend. The regular Sunday morning breakfast run to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek is worth joining; ask Thomas Kellerman about these routes and other rallies when you collect your bike. Alternatively, get off the road and explore the mountain on a bike from Downhill Adventures (tel. 021/422-0388; R140 per day).
Neighborhoods in Brief
City Bowl -- Near the Waterfront, beaches, and Winelands, and in easy reach of most of the city's best restaurants, with great views, the residential suburbs that flank the city center are the most convenient place to stay. Opt for one of the many elegant guesthouses on the mountain slopes of the upmarket suburbs of Oranjezicht, Higgovale, and Tamboerskloof, with excellent views of the city and harbor.
Bo-Kaap (Upper Cape) -- Stretching from the edge of the inner city and up the slopes of Signal Hill, this lively suburb of historic houses painted in a rainbow of pastels and bold colors is historically one of the most interesting parts of Cape Town. With its concentration of historic mosques, rough cobbled streets, and a distinctive sense of community and vibrant "Cape Malay" culture, this is a great place to experience Cape Town's much-vaunted "diversity," although it's slowly changing under the influence of foreign investment.
De Waterkant, Green Point, Mouille Point & Sea Point -- Wedged into a strip of land between Signal Hill and the Atlantic Ocean, this area -- with a mix of residential and commercial property -- for some time, has been the most dynamically evolving part of Cape Town. De Waterkant is a tiny enclave that has evolved into a chi-chi shopping area, with cobbled streets and a fine square (Cape Quarter) surrounded by restaurants. It's world-renowned for its popularity with gay travelers, who spend a lot of their vacation time swinging through the densely concentrated bars and clubs located here and in neighboring Green Point. Closer to the water, the beachfront that stretches along the coast of Mouille Point and Sea Point has been largely ruined by the construction of dense high-rise apartments (although, come sunset, the seaside promenade is still a salubrious place to walk, jog, or hold hands), while pockets along Sea Point's Main Road are hangouts for hookers and drug dealers. This area used to be the heart of Cape Town's nightlife and is experiencing a steady comeback, especially as vibey Green Point puts on the glitz for 2010. You'll find a wide selection of restaurants on Main Road, from Green Point to the very end of Sea Point, but mind yourself after dark.
The Waterfront -- The Victoria & Alfred (V&A) Waterfront is one of the most successful in the world and -- for good or bad -- one of Cape Town's top attractions. Hotels have glorious sea and mountain views, and many shopping, dining, and entertainment options are right at your doorstep. You'll pay for the privilege of staying here, though (the cheap options aren't worth it). And it's a little out of touch with the rest of the city; most of the locals you'll meet here are the ones working the shops.
Atlantic Seaboard -- If you're looking for a beach holiday, stay on the Atlantic seaboard, where Table Mountain drops steeply into the ocean, creating a magnificent backdrop to the seaside "villages" of Bantry Bay, Clifton, Camps Bay, Bakoven, and Llandudno. The beaches are the most beautiful (Camps Bay, lined with restaurants and cocktail bars, is the most accessible), and gorgeous people strut their stuff on the pristine, fine white sands. The sunsets here are awe inspiring.
Southern Suburbs -- The three worth highlighting are Woodstock, Observatory, and Constantia. Woodstock, with its totally unglamorous, semi-industrial feel, has been targeted for (positive) development and is seeing an injection of capital and creative energy that is transforming it into the next residential hub, already boasting the city's most fabulous Saturday market and enticing new shopping venues. Observatory (less than 10 min. from town), with its quaint Victorian buildings and narrow streets, has an interesting bohemian feel; its proximity to both the University of Cape Town and the huge Groote Schuur hospital makes for a particularly eclectic mix of people. Farther south (about 20 min. from town), the oak-lined streets and old, established mansions of Constantia are arguably the city's most exclusive addresses, with the lush surrounds of the Cape's oldest wine-producing area attracting the rich and famous who prefer their privacy to the glare of the sun-soaked hoi polloi in Camps Bay.
False Bay -- Distance from city attractions is the drawback of the suburbs of the naval base of Victorian-era Simons Town, overdeveloped Fish Hoek, Kalk Bay, St. James, and Muizenberg, but they are definitely worth a day or two of your attention, particularly if this is not your first visit to Cape Town. Kalk Bay, in particular, has a plethora of quaint restaurants and shops -- even a dinner theater. The sea is a few degrees warmer on this side of the mountain, and because this part of the coast faces east, dawn can be breathtaking, though obviously at the expense of sunsets.
Southern Peninsula & Cape Point -- Surrounded by mountains, the fast-developing town of Hout Bay has its own harbor and marks the start of the breathtaking Chapman's Peak Drive, which snakes past the burgeoning town of Noordhoek, and such sweet villages as Kommetjie, Misty Cliffs, and Scarborough, before reaching Cape Point Nature Reserve. Close to the shore, the best of these seaside enclaves have superbly white sandy beaches backed by magnificent cliffs, and they retain a dreamy, villagelike feel. Some, such as Noordhoek, though, have spawned huge housing developments. If you need to be near the action rather than surrounded by nature, you'll probably find these places a little too far from the city.
Cape Flats -- This is where the majority of "coloureds" (the apartheid name for people of mixed descent) live, many forcibly relocated from District Six (a now-razed suburb adjacent to the city) by apartheid policies. The residents of the Cape Flats suffer from a high unemployment rate and lack of cohesive identity and hope, and the area has become a fertile breeding ground for drug-fueled gang wars. Even farther east are the "black suburbs" (historically referred to as "townships") of Gugulethu, Langa, and Nyanga, and the vast shantytowns and new residences of Khayalitsha (visible from the N2 as you drive into town from the airport). To get a balanced view of Cape Town and a real insight into South Africa's history, a visit to these areas is highly recommended.
Winelands -- No trip to Cape Town would be complete without at least a day spent here; indeed, many prefer to stay here for the duration of their visit -- Cape Town lies no more than an hour or so away; the airport, 45 minutes. The university town of Stellenbosch is the cultural epicenter of the Winelands, and its oak-lined streetscape offers the greatest sense of history; the wine produced by its terroir is also generally the best. However, Franschhoek -- reached via either Stellenbosch or Paarl -- is located in the prettiest of the wineland valleys and has a well-developed, albeit very touristy, infrastructure that includes an overwhelming concentration of award-winning restaurants; if you overnight in only one wine-producing region, make sure it's Franschhoek. Deciding where to stay is ultimately a matter of availability; places situated on wine estates with views of the vineyards and mountains are most desirable. By contrast, the town of Paarl is far from attractive, but it makes a convenient stop-off for lunch as you head toward the quaint winelands village of Tulbagh. The lack of pretense, scant traffic, and prime accommodations at a fair price make Tulbagh one of the sweetest little destinations in the country.
Northern Suburbs -- With their kitsch postmodern palaces and endless "first-home" developments, these suburbs don't really warrant much attention. However, if you're heading north to see the West Coast, you should consider stopping at Blouberg Beach for the classic postcard view of Table Mountain across the bay; take the R27 Marine Drive, off the N1, to get here.
Getting There
By Plane
At press time, Cape Town International Airport (tel. 021/937-1200, or 086/727-7888 for flight information) is undergoing a final phase of a much-anticipated expansion in preparation for unprecedented arrivals in 2010. The good news is that authorities have been listening to passenger feedback and taking complaints and suggestions seriously, so airport staff, security, and even passport control have been upgrading their systems to cope with the expected influx. The airport is 17km (11 miles) from the center of town, so it should take no longer than 20 to 30 minutes to get into the city and surrounds (set aside at least twice that amount of time if traveling toward the airport during evening rush hour, 4-6pm). Tip: If you've arrived early or are waiting for a connection, you can relax in a Rennies Travel "Premier Club" lounge (tel. 021/936-3014), which offer first-class lounge facilities; entry costs R145 (international terminal) or R90 (domestic).
Airport Transfers -- In the rare instances that a hotel offers a complimentary airport transfer, we have mentioned this. You can ask any of our recommended lodgings to arrange an airport transfer, but you will definitely save money by doing this directly with Centurion (tel. 021/934-8281; centuriontours@telkomsa.net), a hugely reliable company that offers an efficient door-to-door service in clean minibuses. Ideally, you should book your ride 2 days in advance. From the airport to the city center, it costs R140 for the first person and R20 per person thereafter. Mail or call them, and they'll be waiting at the airport arrivals area with your name on a sign board; note that there's an early-morning (before 6:30am) and late-night (after 10:30pm) surcharge of R40. Rikkis (tel. 086/174-5547) offers an efficient airport taxi service costing R180 (city center) or R200 (Atlantic seaboard) for the first passenger; discounts apply to each additional person. You'll also find taxis directly outside the terminals; the same trip costs upward of R300, but you can usually bargain them down if you agree on a price up front. Car-rental desks are inside the arrival terminals, and a bureau de change stays open for international flights; the rates aren't always the best, so use an ATM instead.
Warning: The Early Bird . . . -- Getting to Cape Town's airport can be the ultimate vacation come-down; traffic jams, breakdowns, and accidents have caused many people to miss their flights home, particularly during the weekday rush hour. Don't let Cape Town's relatively small size fool you: Plan sensibly and head for the airport well ahead of schedule.
By Car
If you're driving directly from Johannesburg, you will arrive on the N1, traveling past the Winelands area of Paarl. From Port Elizabeth, via the Garden Route, you'll approach the city center on the N2, passing Somerset West in the Winelands. The N2 splits into the M3 (the highway, known as De Waal Dr., that connects the southern suburbs to the city center and the City Bowl suburbs) and Eastern Boulevard, which joins the N1 as it enters the perimeter of town. The entrance to the Waterfront is clearly signposted off here, and there are signs pointing the way to the Table Mountain cableway as well as Camps Bay.
By Bus
The main intercity buses, Greyhound, Intercape Mainliner, and Translux, all terminate at the junction of Strand and Adderley streets. Note that the Baz Bus -- a minibus service aimed at backpackers -- offers a more flexible hop-on, hop-off option throughout the country.
By Train
The luxurious Blue Train (tel. 021/449-2672; www.bluetrain.co.za) and Rovos Rail (tel. 021/421-4020; www.rovos.co.za) roll into Cape Town station (tel. 021/449-2991) from Pretoria. A more affordable alternative is a Premier Classe coupe from Johannesburg on Shozoloza Meyl (tel. 086/000-8888; www.shosholozameyl.co.za), South Africa's main-line passenger services. Note that the bus is quicker and much cheaper, albeit not as comfortable (the Trans-Karoo to Jo'burg takes 25 hr., and the bus takes 18 hr.).
