Hotels in Cederberg

There are four basic self-catering cottages in the village of Wupperthal (tel. 027/492-3410; R120 per person). Contact Cape Nature Conservation for camping and self-catering information in the Cederberg reserve (tel. 021/659-3500; www.capenature.co.za). At the time of writing, the reserve had been hit by fire and the accommodations were closed; once they're open again, ask for Rietdak, a self-catering cottage 400m (1,312 ft.) from the river. Recommended options in Clanwilliam itself are the gracious Victorian Ndedema Lodge (tel. 027/482-1314; R820-R1,020 double); of the two doubles, no. 2 is the most desirable, with its canopied king-size bed and marvelous bathroom. There are also two family units, one in the main house and a separate cottage set a little way back in the gardens. Wilma, the owner, used to head up the Pretoria tourist office and has been collecting antiques all her life -- many of which now grace the bedrooms and communal areas of the lodge. The rate includes breakfast, and this is a wonderfully peaceful base for exploring the area. Less luxurious but comfortable is Saint Du Barry's Country Lodge (tel./fax 027/482-1537), a relaxed B&B with five simple en-suite units (R880 double). But for all-out luxury, with excellent guided tours of San rock art, you can't beat Bushmans Kloof.