Things To Do in Charlottetown

Charlottetown is a compact city that's easy to walk around in. Focus on three areas: the waterfront, the downtown area near Province House and the Confederation Court Mall, and the parks and residential areas near Victoria Park.

You're best off first heading to the information center, by the waterfront, for a little orientation and then starting your first tour right from there. That's because parking is generally scarce downtown, but relatively abundant near the visitor center, both on the street and in free and paid lots. At the visitor center, be sure to ask for a map and one of the free walking-tour brochures.

The waterfront is anchored by Peake's Wharf, a collection of touristy boutiques and eats that attracts hordes in summer. The complex offers good people-watching, plus a kid-friendly "marine touch tank" (watch out for the lobster spines), though it also has a somewhat formulaic "festival marketplace" feel to it and lacks true local character -- except for the free concert series, which features local tunesmiths and a folksy vibe. Next to the wharf is Confederation Landing Park, an open, modern park with a boardwalk along water's edge; lush lawns; and benches nicely situated for lazing about awhile with the kids. There's also a big marina, where you can scope out the pleasure craft.

From the wharf, stroll up Great George Street, one of the best-looking streets in eastern Canada with its leafy trees, perfectly scaled Georgian row houses, and stately churches. At the top of Great George Street, stop into the Province House and Confederation Centre of the Arts, then explore downtown's shops and restaurants.

For a pleasant walk affording fine water views, head southwest on Kent Street (just north of the Confederation Mall). At 2 Kent St., you'll see Beaconsfield (tel. 902/368-6603), a mansard-roofed mansion designed in 1877 by local architect William Harris for a prosperous shipbuilder. The architecture boasts an elegant mix of Georgian symmetry and Victorian exuberance, and rooms are furnished in high Victorian style. The home, operated by the Prince Edward Island Museum and Heritage Foundation, hosts lectures and events throughout the year. It's open daily in summer from 10am to 4:45pm, and daily except Saturdays in September from noon to 4pm. Call ahead for opening hours if you'll be visiting outside of the July-to-August season; it's open sporadically at other times. Admission is C$4.25 adults, C$3.25 students, C$12 families, and free for children under 12.

From Beaconsfield, look for the boardwalk that follows the edge of the harbor for about a mile into Victoria Park, a quiet place of ballfields and grassy picnic areas. This walk along the water has unobstructed views of the harbor and Northumberland Strait.

Along the way, look for the handsome Government House (tel. 902/368-5480), also known as Fanningbank. Built in 1834, this sturdy white-shingled residence with eight Doric columns is set back on a broad lawn. It's the official residence of the island's lieutenant governor -- a former vocal soloist and choral teacher -- who serves as the Queen of England's personal representative to the province. The home is only opened to the public in July and August, on weekdays from 10am to 4pm, when there are guided tours on the half-hour. (The grounds are also open to the public, but again only in summer.) The place probably looks familiar to you if you've been in Charlottetown for a few days: That famous photo of the Fathers of the Confederation you see everywhere around town was taken on the front portico.

One good resource for planning evening adventures is The Buzz (www.buzzon.com), a free monthly newspaper that details ongoing and special events around the island with an emphasis on Charlottetown. It’s widely available; look for it in visitor centers, bars, and restaurants.

Pubs and eateries spill onto sidewalk patios at Victoria Row, a small section of Richmond Street beside the Confederation Centre that is blocked off to traffic in summer. Things get lively when musicians show up, which happens regularly. A local favorite is Fishbones (fishbones.ca; 902/628-6569), an oyster bar and seafood grill with good live music at 136 Richmond St.

Olde Charlottetown, as the heritage district is called, is a great spot for those who enjoy pubs. Gahan House Pub (www.gahan.ca;  902/626-2337) at 126 Sydney St. was PEI’s first microbrewery. It serves  solid pub food (fish and chips are served in a bag) plus a full range of brews to sample. They do tours of the brewery for C$10.

For live Celtic music and lobster and roast-beef dinners, head for the Olde Dublin Pub, above the Claddagh Oyster House at 131 Sydney St. (www.oldedublinpub.com; 902/892-6992).

On the waterfront at 23 Queen St., the Merchantman Pub (merchantman.ca; 902/892-9150) offers a more upscale menu than the usual pub fare—think lobster bruschetta, crab cakes, walnut coated scallops.

Upstreet Craft Brewing (www.upstreetcraftbrewing.com; 📞 902/894-0543) is a few blocks removed from downtown at 41 Allen Street off University Avenue, but the beer is the best on the island, and its open noon ‘til midnight. There’s usually a quality food truck parked outside. They make an excellent Czech style pilsner called Commons and a tasty light beer called Rhuby Social, a rhubarb strawberry wheat beer.

For high culture, always check first with the Confederation Centre of the Arts (www.charlottetownfestival.com; 800/565-0278 or 902/566-1267), where the stage bustles with dramatic and musical activity throughout the year. The musical Anne of Green Gables, a perennial favorite, is performed here throughout the summer—but so are concerts, plays, and other performances. The Guild (www.theguildpei.com; 866/774-0717 or 902/620-3333), a black-box theater at 111 Queen St., showcases emerging and professional artists and is a hotbed of fund-raising events, giving it a unique community feel. Music, comedy, theater, dance: It’s always affordable. Finally, the art-house City Cinema, at 64 King St. (citycinema.net; 902/368-3669), has an excellent lineup of domestic and foreign films; typically, there’s a choice of two films each evening.