Things To Do in Chengdu

The best way to enjoy Chengdu is to take long walks or cycle through the city, relax in a few teahouses and hot pot restaurants, and spread your visits to the best sights over a few days -- or longer if you're using Chengdu as a base from which to visit out-of-town attractions. Here are some of my favorite strolls:

• Much of Chengdu's Tibetan community lives southeast of the Wuhou Temple, and the area around the Southwest Minority Nationalities College and the Tibetan Hospital is interesting for its bookstores, Tibetan shops, and people. Wuhou Ci Heng Jie, in particular, has lots of shops selling Tibetan and minority goods. Have lunch at Xizang Fengqing Wu.

• Directly to the east of Wuhou Temple is Chengdu's entertainment landscape, Jinli Gu Jie (Jinli Ancient Street).Completed in early 2005, this narrow strip of restaurants, bars, and souvenir stores is built in the style of traditional Eastern Sichuan architecture and is surprisingly tastefully done. Catering more to locals than tourists, the walk is as interesting for the architecture as it is for the opportunity to just mingle with middle-class Chinese. The strip is also well worth visiting for its alley of traditional Sichuan street food -- an infinitely more hygienic environment than where you'll usually find it.

• To truly experience local people's lifestyle, one of the best ways used to be heading to Kuan/Zhai Xiangzi (Wide/Narrow Lanes), located in the west of the city center, which were full of teahouses and traditional Chinese architecture erected back in the Ming and Qing dynasties. However, a under redevelopment plan, most residents have been evacuated and old buildings on Zhaixiangzi were demolished. The then-residential area has transformed into another entertainment spot like Jinli Gu Jie, with cafes, restaurants, bars, and souvenir stores. But few residential courtyards still remain on Kuan Xiangzi. Locals still love to spend their day on Zhaixiangzi, enjoying a cup of tea, playing cards and mahjong.

• Chengdu's art students used to sell their work on the roads leading into their campus, but the art trade has since been institutionalized and moved into the government building Songxian Qiao Yishu Cheng (Songshan Bridge Art City) on Huanhua Bei Lu. While all this might make the complex seem tragically bereft of bohemian spirit, it is worth taking an afternoon to wander through the stalls of "antiques," old party propaganda, Chinese handicrafts, and art. While much of what is on offer is indistinguishable from the pap passed off as Chinese culture in every city you are likely to visit, there are enough gems to warrant some of your time. Of particular interest is the Zhongchuan Shoucang (Zhongchuan Collection; A Qu, second floor no. 53), run by Yang Xiguang, a former cadre selling off his extensive personal collection of Cultural Revolution propaganda. Mr. Yang does not speak English, but the collection more than speaks for itself.

Unlike many Chinese cities, Chengdu offers a variety of ways to pass the evening. Sichuan opera is a favorite for foreign and Chinese tourists alike. Known for its humor and dynamism, an integral part of every performance is bianlian or "changing faces." The character is often a villain who changes his face to escape recognition. The reputed record is 14 changes in 24 seconds. Over its 300-year tradition, the trick has changed, but it has always been a closely guarded secret within the operatic community. Traditional stick puppets and flame balancing are also incorporated into the drama. Performances are held at the strictly-for-tourists Shufeng Yayun (tel. 028/8776-4530; www.shufengyayun.com; 8-9:30pm) in Wenhua Gongyuan, on 33 Qintai Lu; the fee is ¥160 and performances are held nightly. Take bus no. 25, 46, or 103 to Wenhua Gongyuan.

Another highlight is the Jiuyanqiao Bar Street, along the river near the Jiuyanqiao Bridge and across the river from the Shangri-la. The street is filled with plenty of pubs of different ambience as well as outdoor pubs. It is one of the most popular nightlife spots among locals and the entire street is lively from dusk till dawn. Kehua Bei Lu, in the Sichuan University area, has several clubs which are party-goers' favorites. Kuan/Zhai Xiangzi also has a list of lounge bars which are well-liked by the white-collar and sophisticated crowd. The Lotus Palace Bar and Restaurant (Lianhua Fudi; tel. 028/8553-7676; 3pm-3am) is nestled halfway down Jinli Ancient Street. The entrance to the bar itself is hidden behind two heavy black doors and walled in by a granite facade in the traditional Sichuan style. But once inside the designers have tweaked the traditional design with some modern license: red decor throughout the bar, a Perspex ceiling above the dance floor to see the night sky, silver faux bamboo hanging from the ceiling. If you go early in the evening, the music is sufficiently loungey and good for enjoying a quiet drink; go later and the music gives way to heavier dance mix enjoyed by Chengdu's young, bright things. It is worth a visit to see how China is trying to reclaim its cultural heritage -- without giving into kitsch.

If you are interested to explore the mainland underground music scene, go to Little Bar (Xiaojiuguan), Fangxin Jie 87 (tel. 028/8515-8790; 5pm until late), on the ground floor of the Hengfeng Yinhang next to the Yongfeng Stereo Bridge. You won't miss the red table and chair hung on exterior wall next to the glass door. First established by local musician Tang Lei in 1997, the Fangxin bar is the second branch of Little Bar. Being a popular stage for local and overseas bands, the bar organizes band shows every Friday and Saturday nights. You can also find a large variety of mainland underground acts' CDs on a big shelf inside.