Things To Do in Chester

Chester Attractions

In a big Victorian building opposite the Roman amphitheater, the largest uncovered amphitheater in Britain, the Tourist Information Centre, screens a free 20-minute video presentation about Chester and offers guided walking tours of the city; tours depart daily at 10:30am in the winter and at 10:30am and 2pm in the summer.

To the accompaniment of a hand bell, the town crier appears (May-Sept Tues-Sat at noon) at the City Cross -- the junction of Watergate, Northgate, and Bridge streets -- to shout news about sales, exhibitions, and attractions in the city.

In the center of town, you'll see the much-photographed Eastgate clock. Climb the nearby stairs and walk along the top of the city wall for a view down on Chester. Passing through centuries of English history, you'll go by a cricket field, see the River Dee (formerly a major trade artery), and get a look at many 18th-century buildings. The wall also goes past some Roman ruins, and it's possible to leave the walkway to explore them. The walk is charming and free.

The Rows are double-decker layers of shops, one tier on the street level, the others stacked on top and connected by a footway. The upper tier is like a continuous galleried balcony -- walking in the rain is never a problem here.

Chester Shopping

Chester has three main shopping areas. The Grosvenor Precinct is filled with classy, expensive shops and boutiques that sell a lot of trendy fashion and art items. This area is bordered on three sides by Eastgate, Bridge, and Pepper streets.

For stores with more character and lower prices, explore the Rows, a network of double-layered streets and sidewalks with an assortment of shops. The Rows runs along Bridge, Watergate, Eastgate, and Northgate streets. Shopping upstairs is much more adventurous than down on the street. Thriving stores operate in this traffic-free paradise: tobacco shops, restaurants, department stores, china shops, jewelers, and antiques dealers. For the best look, take a walk on arcaded Watergate Street.

Another shopping area to check out is Cheshire Oaks, a huge retail village of 60 shops, mainly clothing, perfume, and shoe outlet stores. Cheshire Oaks is located about 13km (8 miles) north of Chester on the M53.

Chester has a large concentration of antiques and craft shops. Some better ones include Lowe & Sons, 11 Bridge St. Row (tel. 01244/325850), with antique silver and estate jewelry; the Antique Shop, 40 Watergate St. (tel. 01244/316286), specializes in brass, copper, and pewter items.

Following the Antiques Experts -- To find a good deal on antiques, try a quick trip to the town of Boughton; every transatlantic dealer seems to go here. Along the A41, a mile from the heart of town, Boughton is filled with antiques shops along Christledon Road. It doesn't have the charm of Chester, but shopping values are often better here than in the more historic city. Some outlets have as many as a dozen showrooms, even though they often are hidden behind rather dreary facades.

Chester Nightlife

If you want to relax in a pub, grab a pint of Marston's at the Olde Custom House, Watergate Street (tel. 01244/324435), a 17th-century customhouse with many original features still intact. The Pied Bull, 57 Northgate St. (tel. 01244/325829), is an 18th-century coaching inn where you can still eat, drink, or rent a room. Real ales on tap include Bitter and Traditional. At Ye Olde King's Head, Lower Bridge Street (tel. 01244/324855), ales are not the only spirits you may encounter. This B&B pub, built in 1622, is said to be haunted by three ghosts: a crying woman and baby in room no. 6 and a ghost whose initials, "ST," appear in steam on the bathroom mirror of room no. 4. If you prefer your spirits in a glass, stick to the pub, where you can sip on a Pedigree, or Greenall's Original or Local.

Live Irish music and atmosphere can be sampled at the Red Lion, 59 Northgate St. (tel. 01244/321750), where you can hear traditional music on Sunday nights for the price of a pint of Guinness. Alexanders, Rufus Court off Northgate Street (tel. 01244/340005; http://alexanderslive.com), offers more varied entertainment.