Planning a trip to Chicago

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Chicago has become a breeding ground for urban environmental initiatives, starting with the green roof that was installed on the top of City Hall and the appointment of a Chief Environmental Officer on the mayor's staff. Throughout the city, architects and contractors are building according to environmentally responsible principles, and an addition to the already massive McCormick Place Convention Center was the largest new construction building in the country to receive LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification from the U.S. Green Building Council. An active pro-cycling community has pushed for more bike lanes in the city's streets, and Millennium Park provides secured bike parking and showers for two-wheeled commuters.

A city-wide Green Hotels Initiative has encouraged hotels to become more energy-efficient and change back-room operations to minimize their impact on the environment. The nonprofit organization Green Seal has certified many local hotels for their role in minimizing waste, conserving water, and promoting energy savings; among those getting the highest marks are the Hotel Allegro, Hotel Burnham, Hotel Felix, InterContinental Chicago, Hotel Monaco, and Talbott Hotel.

A focus on locally produced, organic ingredients has become a hallmark of the city's top chefs. Following the lead of well-known chefs such as Charlie Trotter, Bruce Sherman of North Pond, and Paul Kahan of Blackbird, more and more local restaurateurs are highlighting seasonal ingredients on their menus, and the Green City Market has become a popular shopping destination for both culinary professionals and local foodies.

In addition to the resources for Chicago listed above, see frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Getting There

By Plane

Chicago is served by two major airports. O’Hare International Airport (tel. 800/832-6352; www.flychicago.com; airport code ORD) has long battled with Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson Airport for the title of the world’s busiest airport. It’s located about 15 miles northwest of the Loop. Though taxis are plentiful (a cab ride into town averages about $50) and ride shares, such as Uber and Lyft, are readily available, traffic can be horrendous (the ride can last an hour or more, and the longer you sit in traffic in a taxi, the higher the fare will be). If you arrive around rush hour and aren’t carting around lots of luggage, I recommend taking the El, as it’s both cheaper and faster. The 45-minute trip on the El’s Blue Line from O’Hare to downtown costs $5. If you are staying around Michigan Avenue, you’ll want to switch to the Red Line, which will add another 10 to 15 minutes to your trip.

Midway International Airport (tel. 773/838-0600; www.flychicago.com; airport code MDW) is located 10 miles southwest of downtown Chicago. Although fewer airlines operate routes here, Midway is closer to the Loop and attracts more discount airlines, so you may be able to get a cheaper fare if you fly here. Taxis are available, as are Uber and Lyft, and a cab ride (about $30) from Midway to the Loop usually takes about 20 minutes (though in bad traffic, the journey can take considerably longer). Again, I recommend taking public transportation. The 20- to 30-minute trip on the El’s Orange Line from Midway to the downtown area costs $2.50. Note: The train station at Midway is a significant walk from the terminal—without the benefit of O’Hare’s moving sidewalks—so be prepared if you’ve got heavy bags.

Another transportation option at both airports is GO Airport Express (tel. 888/2-THEVAN [284-3826]; www.airportexpress.com). This shuttle’s green-and-white vans service most first-class hotels in Chicago; ticket counters are located at both airports near the baggage claim (outside Customs at the international terminal at O’Hare). For transportation to the airport, reserve a spot at your hotel (check with the bell captain). The cost is $35 one-way ($50 round-trip) to or from O’Hare and around $24 one-way (around $40 round-trip) to or from Midway. Group rates for two or more people traveling together are less expensive than sharing a cab, and children under 6 are free and ages 6 to 12 ride for $15 each. The shuttles operate from 4am to 11:30pm.)

For limo service from O'Hare or Midway, call Carey Limousine of Chicago (tel. 773/763-0009; www.carey.com).

By Car

Interstate highways from all major points on the compass serve Chicago. I-80 and I-90 approach from the east, crossing the northern sector of Illinois, with I-90 splitting off and emptying into Chicago on the Skyway and the Dan Ryan Expressway. From here, I-90 runs through Wisconsin, following a northern route to Seattle. I-55 snakes up the Mississippi Valley from the vicinity of New Orleans and enters Chicago from the west along the Stevenson Expressway; in the opposite direction, it provides an outlet to the Southwest. I-57 originates in southern Illinois and forms part of the interstate linkage to Florida and the South, connecting within Chicago on the west leg of the Dan Ryan. I-94 links Detroit with Chicago, arriving on the Calumet Expressway and leaving the city on the Kennedy Expressway en route to the Northwest.

Here are approximate driving distances in miles to Chicago: From Milwaukee, 92; from St. Louis, 297; from Detroit, 286; from Denver, 1,011; from Atlanta, 716; from Washington, D.C., 715; from New York City, 821; and from Los Angeles, 2,034.

By Train

Chicago's central train station is Union Station, 210 S. Canal St., between Adams and Jackson streets (tel. 312/655-2385). A hub for both national train routes operated by Amtrak and local commuter lines that run to the Chicago suburbs, it's located just across the river from the Loop. Although Union Station is relatively convenient to downtown, you'll most likely want to take a taxi or bus to your hotel if you have luggage. Bus nos. 1, 60, 125, 151, and 156 all stop at the station on their routes through downtown. The nearest El stop is at Clinton Street and Congress Parkway (on the Blue Line), which is 3 blocks away. Ogilvie Transportation Center, 500 W. Madison St., where you can catch the often-overlooked Metra commuter rail line (tel. 312/322-6777; www.metrarail.com), is a 5-minute walk.

For train tickets to Chicago from other cities in the U.S., consult your travel agent or call Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245] in the U.S. or Canada; tel. 001/215-856-7953 outside the U.S.; www.amtrak.com). Ask the reservations agent to send you Amtrak's travel planner, with useful information on train accommodations and package tours.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15, 30, or 45 days of unlimited travel. The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Bus travel is often the most economical form of public transit for short hops between U.S. cities. Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com. The ticket allows for unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada. Chicago's Greyhound station is at 630 W. Harrison St. (tel. 312/408-5821), just southwest of downtown.

If you're planning on traveling elsewhere in the Midwest, Megabus (tel. 877/GO2-MEGA [462-6342]; www.megabus.com) offers low-cost trips to cities such as Milwaukee, Minneapolis, and St. Louis. The well-kept double-decker buses -- which come equipped with free Wi-Fi -- are a popular option for students. Buses leave from the city's main train station, Union Station.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The 312 area code applies to the central downtown business district and the surrounding neighborhoods, including River North, North Michigan Avenue, and the Gold Coast. The code for the rest of the city is 773. Suburban area codes are 847 (north), 708 (west and southwest), and 630 (far west). You must dial 1 plus the area code for all telephone numbers, even if you are making a call within the same area code.

Business Hours -- Shops generally keep regular American business hours, 10am to 6pm Monday through Saturday. Many stores in downtown Chicago stay open later at least 1 evening a week. Certain businesses, such as bookstores, are almost always open during the evening hours all week. Most shops are also open on Sundays, usually from 11am to 6pm. Malls are generally open until 7pm and on Sunday as well. Banking hours in Chicago are normally from 9am (8am in some cases) to 5pm Monday through Friday, with select banks remaining open later on specified afternoons and evenings.

Dentists -- The referral service of the Chicago Dental Society (tel. 312/836-7300; www.cds.org) can refer you to an area dentist. Your hotel concierge may also keep a list of dentists.

Doctors -- Most hotels in Chicago keep a list of local doctors who are available to tend to guests; in case of health problems, your best bet is to contact your hotel's concierge or manager. Northwestern Memorial Hospital, 251 E. Huron St., a well-regarded downtown hospital, also has a physician referral service (tel. 877/926-4664), if you need to find a specialist. If you prefer to stay at your hotel, the service Chicago Express Doctors (tel. 312/929-4492; www.chicagoexpressdoctors.com) makes house calls (expect to pay a premium for the convenience).

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

In Chicago, beer, wine, and other alcoholic beverages are sold at liquor stores and supermarkets. Bars may sell alcohol until 2am, although some nightclubs have special licenses that allow alcohol sales until 4am.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212), or do a search on the State Department’s site, www.state.gov.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; http:// usa.embassy.gov.au/). There are consulates in Chicago, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; http:// travel.gc.ca/assistance/embassies-consulates/united-states). Canadian consulates are in a number of cities, including Chicago, Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). Consulates are in Los Angeles and Honolulu.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, and San Francisco.

Emergencies -- For fire or police emergencies, call tel. 911. This is a free call. If it is a medical emergency, a city ambulance will take the patient to the nearest hospital emergency room. The nonemergency phone number for the Chicago Police Department is tel. 311. If you desire a specific, nonpublic ambulance, call Vandenberg Ambulance (tel. 773/521-7777).

Hospitals -- The best hospital emergency room in downtown Chicago is at Northwestern Memorial Hospital, 251 E. Huron St. (tel. 312/926-2000; www.nmh.org), a state-of-the-art medical center right off North Michigan Avenue. The emergency department (tel. 312/926-5188 or 312/944-2358 for TDD access) is located at 251 E. Erie St., near Fairbanks Court. For an ambulance, dial tel. 911, which is a free call.

Insurance -- Although it’s not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. International visitors should note that, unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Europ Assistance offers global coverage and Generali Global Assistance (GGA) (tel. 800/777-8710; http://us.generaliglobalassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States. Some credit card policies also include travel insurance, so check your policy before booking.

Canadians should check with their provincial health-plan offices, or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of your coverage and what documentation and receipts you must take home in case you are treated in the United States.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0844/567-8196; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only “necessary medical treatment,” and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you’re taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies. For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 35¢ for a postcard and 50¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs $1.15; a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, etc.). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Chicago Tribune (tel. 312/222-3232; www.chicagotribune.com) and the Chicago Sun-Times (tel. 312/321-3000; www.suntimes.com) are the city's two major daily newspapers. The Tribune focuses on sober, just-the-facts reporting; the Sun-Times is a scrappier, attitude-filled tabloid. Both have cultural listings, including movies, theaters, and live music, not to mention reviews of the latest restaurants. The Friday edition of both papers contains a special pullout section with more detailed, up-to-date information on special events happening over the weekend.

Time Out Chicago (tel. 312/924-9555; www.timeoutchicago.com) lists just about everything going on around town during the week, from art openings to theater performances; if you want to squeeze in as much culture as you can while you're here, I highly recommend picking up a copy. The Chicago Reader (tel. 312/828-0350; www.chicagoreader.com) is a free weekly that appears each Thursday, with all the current entertainment and cultural listings. Chicago magazine (www.chicagomag.com) is a monthly with an especially good restaurant review section.

The Chicago Defender (www.chicagodefender.com) covers local and national news of interest to the African-American community. The Spanish-language La Raza (www.laraza.com) reports on stories from a Latino point of view. The Windy City Times (www.windycitytimes.com) publish both news and feature articles about gay and lesbian issues.

Packing -- In general, you should be prepared for rapid weather shifts while you're in town, especially in the spring and fall. Unless you'll be here in July or August, bring at least one jacket and warm sweater in case of a sudden cold front. The winds off the lake, in particular, can be frosty well into the spring. Your best bet is to bring a selection of long- and short-sleeved shirts that can be layered to adapt to changing temperatures (it's not unusual to start out the morning shivering only to be sweating by afternoon). If you're brave enough to venture to Chicago in the winter, make room for hats, gloves, scarves, and boots: You'll need them.

Chicago is a casual town, so standard tourist-wear is acceptable at all the city's museums and most of the restaurants and theaters. A few traditional fine-dining restaurants have a jacket requirement for men, but otherwise male travelers probably won't need to pack a suit.

Police -- For emergencies, call tel. 911. This is a free call (no coins required). For nonemergencies, call tel. 311.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in all public buildings in Chicago, including offices, restaurants, and bars. Hotels are still allowed to have smoking rooms available, though, so request one if you plan on lighting up.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

When visiting Chicago, be prepared to pay up: The local sales tax is 10.25%, the highest in the country, and the hotel room tax is 17.4%.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST); Chicago is in the Central time zone. Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping: Tips are a very important part of certain workers’ income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for the services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!)

In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of bags) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a disaster area). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $2 to $5 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $2 to $5 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag; and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Calendar of Events

Choose Chicago (tel. 877/CHICAGO [244-2246]; www.choosechicago.com) produces a Chicago Visitors Guide, available online and at Visitor Information Centers. The City’s Department of Cultural Affairs and Special Events is also a good resource to learn about cultural events and festivals (tel. 312/744-3316; www.cityofchicago.org/specialevents).

January

The latest boats and recreational vehicles are put on display at the Chicago Boat, RV & Sail Show (tel. 312/946-6200; www.chicagoboatshow.com), which also features trout fishing, a sailing simulator, boating safety seminars, and big-time entertainment. The action takes place in early-January.

Grab a prix-fixe meal for a steal during Chicago Restaurant Week, sponsored by Choose Chicago (tel. 312/567-8500; www.choosechicago.com). Lunch and dinner is priced at $22, $33, or $44 at participating restaurants around town. Make a reservation—the most popular spots fill quickly during the 2-week event.

February

True, many attendees will get to the Chicago Auto Show (tel. 630/495-2282; www.chicagoautoshow.com) via public transportation. Irony aside, it’s the largest auto show in North America and winter is a great time to peruse 1,000 shiny new vehicles on display at McCormick Place. You can get inside them for a closer look, and some you can even drive around an obstacle course.

March

The Chicago River is dyed green for the St. Patrick’s Day Parade (www.choosechicago.com), a Chicago tradition since the 1840s that’s held on the Saturday before March 17. The parade route is Columbus Drive from Balbo Drive to Monroe Street. The South Side Irish Parade (www.southsideirishparade.org), which is more community oriented, happens the day after the downtown parade, on Western Avenue from 103rd to 115th streets.

April

Join the enthusiastic fans of the Cubs (tel. 773/404-CUBS [2827]; www.cubs.mlb.com) or the White Sox (tel. 312/674-1000; www.whitesox.mlb.com) on Opening Day. Be sure to get your tickets early for this eagerly awaited day, and go prepared with warm gear, because it’s usually freezing cold in early April.

May

On the third Saturday in May, you can take the annual Wright Plus Housewalk (tel. 312/994-4000; www.flwright.org/wrightplus), a rare look at the interiors of notable buildings in Oak Park. Tickets go on sale January 1 and can sell out within a few weeks.

Lakeshore Drive (aka LSD) shuts down to cars and opens to bikes one morning a year for the annual Bike the Drive (tel. 312/427-3325; www.bikethedrive.org). Cyclists can ride for a few miles or opt for a 30-mile loop with unbeatable views of Lake Michigan and the downtown skyline. Sunday morning, Memorial Day weekend.

Highland Park’s Ravinia Festival (tel. 847/266-5100; www.ravinia.org) is the open-air summer home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and many first-rate visiting orchestras, chamber ensembles, pop artists, dance companies and so forth. It runs from late May to September.

June

The largest free literary fest in the midwest, Printers Row Lit Fest (http://printersrowlitfest.org) features more than 200 booksellers displaying new, used, and antiquarian books for sale. Add in readings and signings by big-name authors and panel discussions on how to pen your first novel, and you’ve got a full day of entertainment. It takes place the second weekend in June.

Dozens of acts perform over 3 days at Chicago Blues Festival (tel. 312/744-3370; www.chicagobluesfestival.us) in Millennium Park. Many of Chicago’s legendary musicians show off their stuff at Chicago’s largest music festival. All shows are free, so get there early to nab a good spot on the lawn, along with hundreds of thousands of other fans. Second weekend in June.

The Grant Park Music Festival (tel. 312/742-7638; www.grantparkmusicfestival.com) at Pritzker Pavilion in Millennium Park offers free outdoor musical concerts from June to August. One of the city’s best bargains, the concerts feature musicians from the Grant Park Orchestra and Chorus. Bring a picnic and enjoy dinner beforehand with a view of the Chicago skyline.

The floats and marching units at the LGBTQ Pride Parade (tel. 773/348-8243; www.chicagopridecalendar.org) are the definition of over-the-top. Halsted Street is always mobbed; Grab a spot on Broadway to be on the outskirts. The parade runs between Addison and Diversey, mostly along Halsted, the last Sunday in June. A 2-day Pride Fest takes place the weekend prior in the Boystown neighborhood.

The annual Old St. Patrick’s World’s Largest Block Party (tel. 312/648-1021; www.worldslargestblockparty.com) is a beloved blowout at the city’s oldest church, an Irish Catholic landmark in the West Loop area, in late June. Beer flows and rock bands perform over 2 nights. Bonus: Proceeds benefit social justice causes.

Late June through late August, the city’s Department of Cultural Affairs hosts Chicago Summerdance (tel. 312/742-4007; www.chicagosummerdance.org). A 4,900-square-foot outdoor dance floor is the venue for 1-hour lessons followed by open dancing, from ballroom to samba. Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 6 to 9:30pm and Sunday 4 to 7pm. Free admission.

July

Enticing smells waft through downtown during Taste of Chicago (tel. 312/744-3316; www.tasteofchicago.us), the gigantic outdoor festival that draws more than 1 million to nosh on top city offerings—well beyond pizza and ribs—served al fresco and priced ala carte (admission is free). An A-list of headliners makes for a rollicking nightly soundtrack (admission required) throughout the 5-day event.

More than 80 homeowners open their backyards to visitors at the annual Sheffield Garden Walk (www.sheffieldgardenwalk.com) in the Lincoln Park neighborhood near DePaul University. Intersplice your self-guided garden tour with guided architectural tours and breaks for food, drinks, kid’s activities, and live music at the street festival held in tandem with the walk. Third weekend in July.

August

Grab your fedora and festival gear for Lollapalooza (tel. 888/512-SHOW [7469]; www.lollapalooza.com), which brings 3 days of big-name bands to Grant Park. Beyond the music (more than 150 bands on 8 stages), there are after-shows, artisans, and incredible food offerings from local chefs. Early August.

The U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds and U.S. Navy Leap Frogs usually put in an appearance at the Chicago Air & Water Show (tel. 312/744-3316; www.chicagoairandwatershow.us), which is held the third weekend in August. Admission is free to this hugely popular aquatic and aerial spectacular at North Avenue Beach.

Northalsted Market Days (tel. 773/883-0500; www.northalsted.com) is the city’s largest street festival, drawing nearly 200,000 to the heart of this gay neighborhood. Centered on Halsted Street between Belmont Avenue and Addison Street, the 2-day extravaganza includes food, crafts, DJs, dancing, and plenty of pride.

September

National headliners are always on hand at the Chicago Jazz Festival (tel. 312/744-3316; www.chicagojazzfestival.us). The free event, which includes an art fair, takes place in Millennium Park Labor Day weekend.

October

The oldest U.S. festival of its kind, the Chicago International Film Festival (tel. 312/683-0121; www.chicagofilmfestival.org) screens films from around the world—including shorts, documentaries, indies, noir, local films, and more—at various theaters over 2 weeks in October.

The Chicago Marathon (tel. 312/904-9800; www.chicagomarathon.com) has become a major event on the international long-distance running circuit. Held Columbus Day weekend, the marathon begins and ends in Grant Park, but can be viewed along any of the many vantage points along the route (Lincoln Park provides some of the best).

November

Magnificent Mile Lights Festival (tel. 312/409-5560; https://www.themagnificentmile.com/lights-festival) kicks off the holiday season by lighting up Michigan Avenue at dusk the Saturday before Thanksgiving. But it’s more than just lights. There’s also a parade of Disney characters, carolers, elves, minstrels, Santa, and family-friendly activities Friday evening and all day Saturday.

December

The esteemed Joffrey Ballet of Chicago performs The Nutcracker (tel. 312/386-8905; www.joffrey.com) with a twist: the plot revolves around Chicago’s 1893 World’s Fair. A family holiday tradition, performances begin after Thanksgiving and continue through the end of December.

Christkindlmarket, Daley Plaza, in the Loop (tel. 312/494-2175; www.christkindlmarket.com), is an annual holiday event inspired by traditional German Christmas festivals, with vendors flying in from Germany to sell handcrafted ornaments and decorations. Don’t miss the hot spiced wine, beer, and sausages. Open Thanksgiving Day through Christmas Eve. For a smaller, less crowded version—complete with ice skating—head to Gallagher Way at Wrigley Field.

Goodman Theatre’s A Christmas Carol (tel. 312/443-3800; https://www.goodmantheatre.org) is a seasonal favorite, performed from Thanksgiving through December.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency.  However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

While not as expensive as New York or London, Chicago's hotel and restaurant prices are near the high end compared to other American cities. It's hard to find a hotel room for less than $200 a night in the summer (prime tourist season), and entrees at the city's best restaurants can set you back around $30.

Credit cards are accepted just about everywhere, aside from a few hole-in-the-wall restaurants. You should have no trouble using traveler's checks at most hotels and downtown restaurants (places that are used to accommodating international visitors), but they may not be accepted at smaller businesses in the city's residential neighborhoods.

ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, especially downtown and near tourist attractions. (Most Chicagoans refer to them as "cash stations".) Most ATMs belong to one of two networks: Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) or PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com). Go to your bank card's website to find convenient ATM locations before you leave, and be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in Chicago US$

Taxi from O'Hare Airport to downtown 35.00

Taxi from Midway Airport to downtown 25.00

Double room, expensive 300.00-500.00

Double room, moderate 200.00-250.00

Double room, inexpensive 100.00-150.00

Three-course dinner for one (without wine), moderate 30.00-50.00

Bottle of beer 3.00-8.00

Cup of coffee 1.50-3.00

1 gallon/1 liter of gasoline 3.50

Admission to most museums 10.00-20.00

Tips for Black Travelers

Chicago is a cosmopolitan city with a population that's about 36% African American, 30% white, and 26% Latino. (Chicago has the second-largest Mexican population in the U.S., after Los Angeles.) Visitors of all racial and ethnic groups shouldn't expect to encounter any discrimination; Chicagoans are used to welcoming tourists and businesspeople from around the world.

Still, Chicago is extremely divided residentially along racial lines. The South Side is overwhelmingly African American, the North Side is mostly white, and Latino residents tend to settle in neighborhoods such as Pilsen, just southwest of downtown.

African-American travelers can explore the city's rich black heritage with a specialized tour. Visitors with an interest in Latin-American art might want to stop by the vibrant National Museum of Mexican Art and explore the surrounding neighborhood of Pilsen.

Tips for Families

Chicago is full of sightseeing opportunities and special activities geared toward children. For family-friendly activities, check out our Especially for Kids section, as well as Suggested Itineraries and Walking Tours.

Publications: You can pick up a free copy of Chicago Parent magazine (www.chicagoparent.com) at any local bookstore, public library, or park district building. The magazine includes a calendar of events geared to families with kids.

Orientation

Chicago proper has about three million inhabitants living in an area about two-thirds the size of New York City; another five million make the suburbs their home. The Chicago River forms a Y that divides the city into its three geographic zones: North Side, South Side, and West Side. (Lake Michigan is where the East Side would be.) The downtown financial district is called the Loop. The city's key shopping street is North Michigan Avenue, also known as the Magnificent Mile. In addition to department stores and vertical malls, this stretch of property north of the river houses many of the city's most elegant hotels. North and south of this downtown zone, Chicago stretches along 29 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline that is, by and large, free of commercial development, reserved for public use as green space and parkland from one end of town to the other.

Finding an Address

Chicago is laid out in a grid system, with the streets neatly lined up as if on a giant piece of graph paper. Because the city itself isn't rectangular (it's rather elongated), the shape is a bit irregular, but the perpendicular pattern remains. A half-dozen or so major diagonal thoroughfares make moving through the city relatively easy.

Point zero is located at the downtown intersection of State and Madison streets. State Street divides east and west addresses, and Madison Street divides north and south addresses. From here, Chicago's highly predictable addressing system begins. Making use of this grid, it's easy to plot the distance in miles between any two points in the city.

Virtually all of Chicago's principal north-south and east-west arteries are spaced by increments of 400 in the addressing system -- regardless of the number of smaller streets nestled between them -- and each addition or subtraction of the number 400 to an address is equivalent to a half-mile. Thus, starting at point zero on Madison Street and traveling north along State Street for 1 mile, you will come to 800 N. State St., which intersects Chicago Avenue. Continue uptown for another half-mile and you arrive at the 1200 block of North State Street at Division Street. And so it goes, right to the city line, with suburban Evanston located at the 7600 block north, 9 1/2 miles from point zero.

The same rule applies when you're traveling south, or east to west. Thus, starting at point zero and heading west from State Street along Madison and Halsted streets, the address of 800 W. Madison St. would be the distance of 1 mile, while Racine Avenue, at the intersection of the 1200 block of West Madison Street, is 1 1/2 miles from point zero. Madison Street then continues westward to Chicago's boundary with the nearby suburb of Oak Park along Austin Avenue, which, at 6000 W. Madison, is approximately 7 1/2 miles from point zero.

Once you've got the grid figured out, you can look at a map and estimate about how long it will take to walk around any given neighborhood. The other convenient aspect of the grid is that every major road uses the same numerical system. In other words, the cross street (Division St.) at 1200 N. Lake Shore Dr. is the same as at 1200 N. Clark St. and 1200 N. LaSalle St.

Street Maps

Free maps are available at the city's official visitor information centers at the Chicago Cultural Center and the Chicago Water Works Visitor Center. You can also print out maps before your trip by visiting the Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau's website, www.choosechicago.com.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

While it's not quite San Francisco, Chicago is a very gay-friendly city. The neighborhood commonly referred to as "Boys Town" (roughly from Belmont Ave. north to Irving Park Ave., and from Halsted St. east to the lakefront) is the center of gay nightlife -- and plenty of daytime action, too. Gay and Lesbian Pride Week (tel. 773/348-8243; www.chicagopridecalendar.org), highlighted by a raucous parade on the North Side, is a major event each June. To browse listings of gay-friendly events when you're in town, visit the Chicago Pride website (http://chicago.gopride.com) before your visit.

The Center on Halsted, 3656 N. Halsted St. (tel. 773/472-6469; www.centeronhalsted.org), is a gay social service agency and community center that's become an informal gathering place for Boys Town residents. Inside you'll find an organic grocery store, cafe, and plenty of couches for hanging out and taking advantage of the center's free Wi-Fi. You might also want to stop by Unabridged Books, 3251 N. Broadway (tel. 773/883-9119), an excellent independent bookseller with a large lesbian and gay selection. Here, and elsewhere in the Lakeview neighborhood, you can pick up several gay publications, including the weekly Windy City Times (www.windycitytimes.com), which covers local news and entertainment.

Visitor Information

The city’s tourism bureau, called Choose Chicago, has a Visitor Information Center in Macy’s, 111 N. State Street (tel. 312/567-8500; www.choosechicago.com), and dispenses information to both domestic and international visitors.

You can also contact the Illinois Office of Tourism (tel. 800/406-6418; www.enjoyillinois.com) for city and state info.

Useful Websites

• www.chicago.metromix.com: Comprehensive entertainment and nightlife listings from the Chicago Tribune. A good place to check reviews and get an early look at new bars and nightclubs.

• www.do312.com: Another reliable events website that clues you in to concerts, festivals, comedy, and events; its sister site, www.rainbow.do312.com, shares LGBTQ listings.

• www.blockclubchicago.org: Want to see what issues have Chicagoans all riled up? Check out this sounding board for local news, which covers everything from government corruption scandals to neighborhood news.

• www.chicagoplays.org: The League of Chicago Theatres runs a comprehensive site where you can search specific dates to see what’s playing.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Traveling as a senior can definitely save you money in Chicago; people 60 and older qualify for reduced admission to most major cultural attractions and lower-priced theater tickets. At major museums such as the Art Institute and Field Museum of Natural History, the senior rate is about 30% less than the general admission price.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

If you’re from another country, it’s a good bet that your cellphone will work in Chicago if you have an international plan, although we do have a fragmented cellular system so it’s helpful to check with your carrier. If your phone is unlocked, you can purchase a SIM card from Best Buy or one of the mobile carriers (T-Mobile, AT&T, and Best Buy have stores downtown and throughout the city); alternatively, you can simply purchase an inexpensive, pay-as-you-go or pre-paid phone service from a company such as TracFone (tel. 800/867-7183; www.tracfone.com).

You can also forgo the cell phone hassle—if it is a hassle—and rely on Wi-Fi and Skype or other VOIP services to stay connected. Most hotel lobbies offer free Wi-Fi, as does Harold Washington Library, which also has computers available to the public for free.

Hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers throughout the Chicago area have gone Wi-Fi, becoming hotspots that offer free high-speed access or charge a small fee for usage.

In the Loop, Millennium Park; Daley Plaza (along Washington St. between Dearborn and Clark sts.); the Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St.; and the Harold Washington Library Center, 400 S. State St., all have wireless access (the library also has computers that the public can use). Elsewhere in downtown Chicago, Starbucks, the sandwich chain Cosi, and McDonald’s have numerous locations with Wi-Fi access, as do many locally owned bars and cafes. You can also rely on most hotel lobbies to have free Wi-Fi—and you don’t have to purchase anything to take advantage. Many Chicago hotels also have business centers equipped with computers available for guests’ use.

To find more hotspots in Chicago, download an app, such as OpenSignal (https://opensignal.com), and you’ll be online in a jiffy.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Downtown

The Loop -- The Loop refers literally to a core of high-rises surrounded by a rectangular "loop" of elevated train tracks. But when Chicagoans use the term, they're referring to the city's downtown, bounded by the Chicago River to the north and west, by Michigan Avenue to the east, and by Roosevelt Avenue to the south. For the most part, the Loop is strictly business, filled with office buildings rather than residential developments. For a suggested walking tour of the Loop,

The North Side

Magnificent Mile -- North Michigan Avenue from the bridge spanning the Chicago River to its northern tip at Oak Street is known as the Magnificent Mile (or, simply, "Michigan Avenue," although the street itself stretches much farther). Many of the city's best hotels and most concentrated shopping can be found here. The area stretching east of Michigan Avenue to the lake is sometimes referred to as "Streeterville" -- the legacy of George Wellington "Cap" Streeter. Streeter was an eccentric, bankrupt showman who lived in Chicago in the mid-1880s. Looking for a new way to make money, Streeter bought a steamship with a plan to become a gun runner in Honduras. The steamship ran aground during a test cruise in Lake Michigan, and Streeter left the ship where it was, staking out 200 acres of self-created landfill. He then declared himself "governor" of the "District of Lake Michigan." True story.

River North -- Just to the west of the Mag Mile is an old warehouse district called River North. These formerly industrial buildings have been transformed into one of the city's most vital commercial districts, with many of the city's hottest restaurants and nightspots; you'll also find the city's highest concentration of art galleries here. Large-scale residential loft developments have sprouted on its western and southwestern fringes.

The Gold Coast -- Some of Chicago's most desirable real estate and historic architecture is found along Lake Shore Drive, between Oak Street and North Avenue and along the adjacent side streets. Despite trendy pockets of real estate that have popped up elsewhere, the moneyed class still prefers to live by the lake. On the neighborhood's southwestern edge, around Division and Rush streets, a string of raucous bars and late-night eateries contrasts sharply with the rest of the area's sedate mood. For a suggested walking tour of the neighborhood,

Old Town -- West of LaSalle Street, principally on North Wells Street between Division Street and North Avenue, is the residential district of Old Town, which boasts some of the city's best-preserved historic homes (a few even survived the Great Chicago Fire of 1871). This area was a hippie haven in the 1960s and '70s; now the neighborhood is one of the most expensive residential areas in the city. Old Town's biggest claim to fame, the legendary Second City comedy club, has served up the lighter side of life to Chicagoans for more than 30 years.

Lincoln Park -- Chicago's most popular residential neighborhood for young singles and urban-minded families is Lincoln Park. Stretching from North Avenue to Diversey Parkway, it's bordered on the east by the huge park of the same name, which is home to one of the nation's oldest zoos (established in 1868). The trapezoid formed by Clark Street, Armitage Avenue, Halsted Street, and Diversey Parkway also contains many of Chicago's liveliest bars, restaurants, retail stores, music clubs, and off-Loop theaters -- including the nationally acclaimed Steppenwolf Theatre Company.

Lakeview & Wrigleyville -- Midway up the city's North Side is a one-time blue-collar, now mainstream middle-class quarter called Lakeview. It has become the neighborhood of choice for many gays and lesbians, recent college graduates, and residents priced out of Lincoln Park. The main thoroughfare is Belmont Avenue, between Broadway and Sheffield Avenue. Wrigleyville is the name given to the neighborhood in the vicinity of Wrigley Field -- home of the Chicago Cubs -- at Sheffield Avenue and Addison Street. Not surprisingly, the ball field is surrounded by sports bars and memorabilia shops.

Uptown & Andersonville -- Uptown, which runs along the lakefront as far north as Foster Avenue, has traditionally attracted waves of immigrants. While crime was a major problem for decades, the area has stabilized, with formerly decrepit buildings being converted into -- you guessed it -- condominiums. Vietnamese and Chinese immigrants have transformed Argyle Street between Broadway and Sheridan Road into a teeming market for fresh meat, fish, and all kinds of exotic vegetables. Slightly to the north and west is the old Scandinavian neighborhood of Andersonville, whose main drag is Clark Street, between Foster and Bryn Mawr avenues. The area has an eclectic mix of Middle Eastern restaurants, a distinct cluster of women-owned businesses, and a burgeoning colony of gays and lesbians.

Lincoln Square -- West of Andersonville and slightly to the south, where Lincoln, Western, and Lawrence avenues intersect, is Lincoln Square, a neighborhood that still retains traces of Chicago's once-vast German-American community. The surrounding leafy residential streets have attracted many families, who flock to the Old Town School of Folk Music's theater and education center, a beautiful restoration of a former library building.

Rogers Park -- Rogers Park, which begins at Devon Avenue, is located on the northern fringes of the city bordering suburban Evanston. Its western half has been a Jewish neighborhood for decades. The eastern half, dominated by Loyola University's lakefront campus, has become the most cosmopolitan enclave in the entire city: African Americans, Asians, East Indians, and Russian Jews live side by side with the ethnically mixed student population drawn to the Catholic university. The western stretch of Devon Avenue is a Midwestern slice of Calcutta, colonized by Indians who've transformed the street into a veritable restaurant row serving tandoori chicken and curry-flavored dishes.

The West Side

West Loop -- Also known as the Near West Side, the neighborhood just across the Chicago River from the Loop is the city's newest gentrification target, as old warehouses and once-vacant lots have been transformed into trendy condos and stylish restaurants. Chicago's old Greektown, still the Greek culinary center of the city, runs along Halsted Street between Adams and Monroe streets. Much of the old Italian neighborhood in this vicinity was the victim of urban renewal, but remnants still survive on Taylor Street. The same is true for a few old delis and shops on Maxwell Street, dating from the turn of the 20th century when a large Jewish community lived in the area.

Bucktown/Wicker Park -- Centered near the intersection of North, Damen, and Milwaukee avenues, this resurgent area has hosted waves of German-, Polish-, and, most recently, Spanish-speaking immigrants (not to mention writer Nelson Algren). In recent years, it has morphed into a bastion of hot new restaurants, alternative culture, and loft-dwelling yuppies, although the neighborhood still feels somewhat gritty. The terms Bucktown and Wicker Park are often used interchangeably, but Bucktown is technically the neighborhood north of North Avenue, while Wicker Park is to the south. For a walking tour of the area,

The South Side

South Loop -- The generically rechristened South Loop area was Chicago's original "Gold Coast" in the late 19th century, with Prairie Avenue (now a historic district) as its most exclusive address. But in the wake of the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Hyde Park, and continuing through the Prohibition era of the 1920s, the area was infamous for its Levee vice district, home to gambling and prostitution, some of the most corrupt politicians in Chicago history, and Al Capone's headquarters at the old Lexington Hotel. However, in recent years, its prospects have turned around. The South Loop -- stretching from Harrison Street's historic Printers Row south to Cermak Road (where Chinatown begins), and from Lake Shore Drive west to the south branch of the Chicago River -- is now one of the fastest-growing residential neighborhoods in the city.

Pilsen -- Originally home to the nation's largest settlement of Bohemian-Americans, Pilsen (named for a city in what's now the Czech Republic) was for decades the principal entry point in Chicago for immigrants of every ethnic background. Centered at Halsted and 18th streets just southwest of the Loop, Pilsen now contains one of the largest Mexican-American communities in the U.S. This vibrant and colorful neighborhood, which was happily invaded by the outdoor mural movement launched years earlier in Mexico, boasts a profusion of authentic taquerías and bakeries. The artistic spirit that permeates the community isn't confined to Latin American art. In recent years, artists of every stripe, drawn partly by the availability of loft space in Pilsen, have nurtured a small but thriving artists' colony here.

Hyde Park -- Hyde Park is like an independent village within the confines of Chicago, right off Lake Michigan and roughly a 30-minute train ride from the Loop. Fifty-seventh Street is the main drag, and the University of Chicago -- with all its attendant shops and restaurants -- is the neighborhood's principal tenant. The most successful racially integrated community in the city, Hyde Park is an oasis of furious intellectual activity and liberalism that, ironically, is hemmed in on all sides by neighborhoods suffering some of the highest crime rates in Chicago. Its main attraction is the world-famous Museum of Science and Industry.

Getting Around

By Train (the El)

The Chicago Transit Authority, better known as the CTA (tel. 836-7000 or TTY 836-4949 from any area code in the city and suburbs; www.transitchicago.com), operates an extensive system of trains throughout the city of Chicago; both the below-ground subway lines and aboveground elevated trains are know collectively as the El. The system is generally safe and reliable, although I'd avoid long rides through unfamiliar neighborhoods late at night.

Fares are $2.50 for the train and $2.25 for the bus ($2.50 if you pay cash), regardless of how far you go. For an additional 25 cents, you can transfer to the bus or take a different ‘L’ ride within 2 hours. Children 6 and under ride free, and those between the ages of 7 and 11 pay $1.25 for the El and $1.10 for the bus.Seniors can also receive the reduced fare if they have the appropriate reduced-fare permit (call tel. 312/836-7000 for details on how to obtain one, although this is probably not a realistic option for a short-term visitor).

You can get a transit card, called a Ventra card, from a vending machine at any of the train stations and choose either a single-ride ticket ($3), a 1-day ticket ($10), or a refillable, pay-as-you-go card ($5, which you can use as transit fare but only if you register the card within 90 days). You can also purchase a 3-day card ($20) at an airport vending machine. If you’re going to be riding the bus and train quite a bit, I recommend getting the 1- or 3-day card. They will quickly pay for themselves, and you don’t have to worry about returning to the machine to reload when you’re trying to catch a train.

The CTA operates seven major train lines, identified by color: The Red Line, which runs north-south, is most likely the only one you'll need, since it runs parallel to the lakefront and past many tourist attractions. The Green Line runs west-south; the Blue Line runs through Wicker Park/Bucktown west-northwest to O'Hare Airport; the Pink Line branches off from the Blue Line and serves the southwest side of the city; the Brown Line runs in a northern zigzag route; and the Orange Line runs southwest, serving Midway airport. The Purple Line, which runs on the same Loop elevated tracks as the Orange and Green lines, serves north-suburban Evanston and runs only during rush hour.

I highly recommend taking at least one El ride while you're here -- you'll get a whole different perspective on the city (not to mention fascinating views inside downtown office buildings and North Side homes as you zip past their windows). While the Red Line is the most efficient for traveling between the Magnificent Mile and points south, your only views along this underground stretch will be of dingy stations. For sightseers, I recommend taking the aboveground Brown Line, which runs around the downtown Loop and then north through residential neighborhoods. You can ride all the way to the end of the line at Kimball (about a 45-min. ride from downtown), or hop off at Belmont to wander the Lakeview neighborhood. Avoid this scenic ride during rush hour (before about 9am and 3:30-6:30pm), when your only view will be of tired commuters.

Study your CTA map carefully (there's one printed on the inside back cover of this guide) before boarding any train. Most trains run every 5 to 20 minutes, decreasing in frequency in the off-peak and overnight hours. The Orange Line train does not operate from about 11:30pm to 5am, the Brown Line operates only north of Belmont after about 9:30pm, the Blue Line's Cermak branch doesn't run overnight and on weekends, and the Purple Line operates only during the morning and afternoon rush hours on weekdays. (The Red Line runs 24 hr.)

By Bus

The best way to get around neighborhoods along the lakefront -- where the trains don't run -- is by public bus. Look for the blue-and-white signs to locate bus stops, which are spaced about 2 blocks apart. Each bus route is identified by a number and the name of the main street it runs along; the bus that follows Grand Avenue, for example, is the no. 65 Grand.

Buses accept the same fare cards used for the El, but you can't buy a card onboard. That means you have to stop by a train station to buy a card in advance, or pay $2.50 cash when you board. The bus drivers cannot make change, so make sure that you've got the right amount in coins and dollar bills before hopping on.

A few buses that are particularly handy for visitors are the no. 146 Marine/Michigan, an express bus from Belmont Avenue on the North Side that cruises down North Lake Shore Drive (and through Lincoln Park during nonpeak times) to North Michigan Avenue, State Street, and the Grant Park museum campus; the no. 151 Sheridan, which passes through Lincoln Park en route to inner Lake Shore Drive and then travels along Michigan Avenue as far south as Adams Street, where it turns west into the Loop (and stops at Union Station); and the no. 156 LaSalle, which goes through Lincoln Park and then into the Loop's financial district on LaSalle Street. Note that many bus routes shut down late at night (when you’re probably better off taking a cab anyway).

To plan your route, the CTA’s website offers a trip planner that allows you to type in point A and B (or more) and it’ll show you the routes you can take and the time it will take to get there. You can also download the Ventra app to your phone for planning purposes (www.ventrachicago.com). The CTA operates a useful information line that will help you find the bus or El train that will get you to your destination: tel. 312/836-7000 or TTY 888/282-8891. The line is staffed from 7am to 7pm. Excellent CTA comprehensive maps, which include both El and bus routes, are usually available at subway or El stations, or by calling the CTA.

PACE buses (tel. 836-7000 from any Chicago area code or 847/364-7223; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; www.pacebus.com) cover the suburban zones that surround Chicago. They run every 20 to 30 minutes during rush hour, operating until midevening Monday through Friday and early evening on weekends. Suburban bus routes are marked with nos. 208 and above, and vehicles may be flagged down at intersections where stops aren't marked.

By Commuter Train

The Metra commuter railroad (tel. 312/322-6777 or TTY 312/322-6774; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; at other times, call the Transit Information Center at tel. 312/836-7000 or TTY 312/836-4949; www.metrarail.com) serves the six-county suburban area around Chicago with 12 train lines. Several terminals are located downtown, including Union Station at Adams and Canal streets, LaSalle Street Station at LaSalle and Van Buren streets, the Ogilvie Transportation Center at Madison and Canal streets, and Randolph Street Station at Randolph Street and Michigan Avenue.

To view the leafy streets of Chicago's northern suburbs, take the Union Pacific North Line, which departs from the Ogilvie Transportation Center, and get off at one of the following scenic towns: Kenilworth, Winnetka, Glencoe, Highland Park, or Lake Forest.

The Metra Electric (once known as the Illinois Central-Gulf Railroad, or the IC), running close to Lake Michigan on a track that occupies some of the most valuable real estate in Chicago, will take you to Hyde Park. You can catch the Metra Electric in the Loop at the Randolph Street Station and at the Van Buren Street Station at Van Buren Street and Michigan Avenue. (Both of these stations are underground, so they're not immediately obvious to visitors.)

Commuter trains have graduated fare schedules based on the distance you ride. On weekends, Metra offers a family discount that allows up to three children 11 and under to ride free when accompanying a paid adult. The commuter railroad also offers a $10 weekend pass for unlimited rides on Saturday and Sunday.

By Taxi or Rideshare

Taxis and rideshares, such as Uber and Lyft, are a convenient way to get around the Loop and to get to the dining, shopping, and entertainment options found beyond downtown. With Uber and Lyft, simply download the app (find them at www.uber.com and www.lyft.com) and you can schedule a car to meet you where you are. Rates with Uber and Lyft vary. There are different options for each company that range from sharing a car with strangers to riding in a luxury car. For a standard ride that’s comparable to a taxi, the fare is usually lower for a ride-share. If you’re in a traffic-filled area downtown, I find it’s easier to just hail a cab. That way, there’s no confusion in finding which car is for you. Cabs are easy to hail in the Loop, on the Magnificent Mile and the Gold Coast, in River North, and in Lincoln Park, but if you go much beyond these key areas, you might need to call. Cab companies include Flash Cab (tel. 773/561-4444), Yellow Cab (tel. 312/TAXI-CAB [829-4222]), and Checker Cab (tel. 312/CHECKER [243-2537]).

The meter in Chicago cabs currently starts at $3.25 for the first mile and costs $2.25 for each additional mile, with a $1 surcharge for the first additional rider and 50 cents for each person after that. When leaving the airport, there’s an additional fee of $4 tacked on. And should you vomit in the cab, you’ll pay $50 for the cleaning fee.

By Car

Try to avoid driving in Chicago if possible; it’s easier and cheaper to get around by hopping public transportation or a taxi. If you do drive here, Chicago is laid out so logically that it's relatively easy for visitors to find their way around. Although rush-hour traffic jams are just as frustrating as they are in other large cities, traffic runs fairly smoothly at most times of the day. Chicagoans have learned to be prepared for unexpected delays; it seems that at least one major highway and several downtown streets are under repair throughout the spring and summer months. (Some say we have two seasons: winter and construction.)

Great diagonal corridors -- such as Lincoln Avenue, Clark Street, and Milwaukee Avenue -- slice through the grid pattern at key points in the city and shorten many a trip that would otherwise be tedious on the checkerboard surface of the Chicago streets. On scenic Lake Shore Drive (also known as Outer Dr.), you can travel the length of the city (and beyond), never far from the great lake that is Chicago's most awesome natural feature. If you're driving here, make sure you take one spin along what we call LSD; the stretch between the Museum Campus and North Avenue is especially stunning.

Driving Rules -- Unless otherwise posted, a right turn on red is allowed after stopping and signaling. As in any big city with its share of frustrating rush-hour traffic, be prepared for aggressive drivers and the occasional taxi to cut in front of you or make sudden, unexpected turns without signaling. Chicago drivers almost universally speed up at the sight of a yellow light; you'll most likely hear some honking if you don't make that mad dash before the light turns red.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Over the past few years, the price of gas in Chicago has fluctuated between $3 and $4 per gallon. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. In general, you pay more within the Chicago city limits than you will in the suburbs (the city adds an extra tax into the price), so if you're planning a day trip, it pays to fill up once you're out of town.

Parking -- As in most large cities, parking is at a premium in Chicago, so be prepared to pay up. Throughout downtown, street parking is limited to 2 hours (if you can find a spot); you must purchase a receipt from a designated pay box and display it on your dashboard. Regulations are vigorously enforced throughout the city. The streets around Michigan Avenue have no-parking restrictions during rush hour—believe me, your car will be towed immediately. Many neighborhoods have adopted resident-only parking that prohibits others from parking on their streets, usually after 6pm each day (even all day in a few areas, such as Old Town). The neighborhood around Wrigley Field is off-limits during Cubs night games, so look for yellow sidewalk signs alerting drivers about the dozen-and-a-half times the Cubs play under lights. Downtown, there are plenty of parking garages to choose from, such as Millennium Park Garage (enter on Columbus Dr., 1 block east of Michigan Ave., between Monroe and Randolph sts.) and Grant Park North and South Garages, with one entrance at Michigan Avenue and Van Buren Street and the other at Michigan Avenue and Madison Street (tel. 312/616-0600 for all three garages). But expect to pay $23 and up for the first hour or $30 to $40 for the full day. Your best hope to snag a deal is to download a parking app. ParkWhiz (www.parkwhiz.com) and SpotHero (www.spothero.com) allow you to put in an address, search for nearby parking, and reserve a spot. The parking spaces are in garages, hotels, condo buildings, and other lots, and sometimes even have a valet option. These services can run at less than half of the price you’ll pay pulling into a garage, and since it’s reserved, you don’t have to worry about finding a space.

Car Rental -- All the major car-rental companies have offices at O'Hare and Midway, as well as locations downtown.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license. International visitors also should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

By Bicycle

The city of Chicago has earned kudos for its efforts to improve conditions for bicycling (designated bike lanes have been installed on stretches of Wells St., Roosevelt Rd., Elston Ave., and Halsted St.), but it can still be a tough prospect to compete with cars and their drivers, who aren't always so willing to share the road.

The Active Transportation Alliance (tel. 312/427-3325; www.activetrans.org), a nonprofit advocacy group, has been at the forefront of efforts to make the city more bike-friendly. Their website lists upcoming bike-focused events, including the annual "Bike the Drive," when Lake Shore Drive is closed to cars.

Bike and Roll rents all sorts of bikes, including tandems and four-seater "quadcycles," as well as in-line skates, from three locations: North Avenue Beach, Millennium Park, and Navy Pier (tel. 888/BIKE-WAY [245-3929]; http://www.bikeandroll.com/chicago/). Bike rentals start at $12.50 an hour or $40 a day. Helmets, pads, and locks are provided free of charge. The shops are open daily from 9am to 7pm, weather permitting.

Bike share: For shorter trips, consider Divvy, the city's bike share program. A single ride of up to 30 minutes costs $3, while a $15 day pass will get you unlimited rides during a 24-hour period, of up to 3 hours per ride.

Tips for Student Travelers

The best resource for students in Chicago is STA Travel (www.statravel.com), one of the biggest student-travel agencies in the world, which can set you up with an ID card and get you discounts on plane tickets and rail travel. There is an STA office in the suburb of Evanston, near Northwestern University, at 900 Church St. (tel. 847/475-5070).

Chicago also has several hostels offering students and other travelers inexpensive, no-frills lodging. The best is Hosteling International Chicago, 24 E. Congress Pkwy., in the Loop (tel. 312/360-0300; fax 312/360-0313; www.hichicago.org). It features many amenities (including a free buffet breakfast) and can help set up activities throughout the city. Another hostel open year-round is the more basic Chicago Getaway Hostel, 616 W. Arlington Place, Chicago, IL 60614 (tel. 773/929-5380; fax 773/665-5485; www.getawayhostel.com), in Lincoln Park.

Health & Safety

Although Chicago has one of the highest murder rates in the United States, the vast majority of those crimes are tied to drug dealing or gang activity and take place in areas visitors are unlikely to be walking around. In all my years of living here, I've yet to hear of a violent crime specifically targeted at a tourist.

That said, Chicago has the same problems with theft and muggings as any other major American city, so use your common sense and stay cautious and alert. After dark, stick to well-lit streets along the Magnificent Mile, River North, Gold Coast, and Lincoln Park, which are all high-traffic areas late into the night. You can feel safe walking around many of Chicago’s neighborhoods, too, but keep that common sense in check: stick to lighted areas, be alert, don’t wear headphones, stow your phone away while walking.

If you find yourself in an area that does feel unsafe, you can always call an Uber or Lyft to come and pick you up. Late at night, avoid wandering dark residential streets on the fringes of Hyde Park and Pilsen, which border areas where gangs are active. You can also ask your hotel concierge or an agent at the tourist visitor center about the safety of a particular area.

The El is generally quite safe, even at night, although some of the downtown stations can feel eerily deserted late in the evening. Buses are a safe option, too, especially nos. 146 and 151, which pick up along North Michigan Avenue and State Street and connect to the North Side via Lincoln Park.

Blue-and-white police cars are a common sight, and officers also patrol by bicycle downtown and along the lakefront and by horseback at special events and parades. There are police stations in busy nightlife areas, such as the 18th District station at Chicago Avenue and LaSalle Street in River North, and the 24th District station (known as Town Hall) at Addison and Halsted streets.

When to Go

You'll see Chicago at its best if you visit during the summer or fall. Summer offers a nonstop selection of special events and outdoor activities; the downside is that you'll be dealing with the biggest crowds and periods of hot, muggy weather. Autumn days are generally sunny, and the crowds at major tourist attractions grow thinner -- you don't have to worry about snow until late November at the earliest. Spring is extremely unpredictable, with dramatic fluctuations of cold and warm weather, and usually fair amounts of rain. If your top priority is indoor cultural sights, winter's not such a bad time to visit: no lines at museums, the cheapest rates at hotels, and the pride that comes with slogging through the slush with the natives.

When planning your trip, book a hotel as early as possible, especially if you're coming during the busy summer tourist season. The more affordable a hotel, the more likely it is to be sold out in June, July, and August, especially on weekends. It's also worth checking if a major convention will be in town during the dates you hope to travel. It's not unusual for every major downtown hotel to be sold out during the Housewares Show in late March or the Restaurant Show in mid-May.

Weather

Chicagoans like to joke that if you don't like the weather, just wait an hour -- it will change. In spring and autumn, be prepared for a wide range of temperatures; you may be shivering in a coat and gloves in the morning, only to be fine in a T-shirt by mid-afternoon. While Chicago winters get a bad rap, they're no worse than in other northern American cities. (Though blustery winds do blow in from Lake Michigan, Chicago’s nickname, the Windy City, is due to the hot air generated by its politicos, not its weather.) Still, days of subzero temperatures, snowstorms, and freezing wind chills are not unheard of. If you arrive in winter, a hat, down coat, and a good pair of boots are musts.

Summer in Chicago can be tough to take as well: Temperatures can soar past 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius) for several days at a stretch, and the humidity can rise to stifling proportions. That said, thanks to Lake Michigan breezes, it’s always cooler near the lake.

As close to your departure as possible, check the local weather forecast at the websites of the Chicago Tribune newspaper (www.chicagotribune.com); WGN-TV, whose Tom Skilling is a very well-known meteorologist (www.wgntv.com); or The Weather Channel (www.weather.com).

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Major Conventions

Plan ahead, because hotel rooms and restaurant reservations can be hard to come by when the big shows are in town -- and even if you snag a room, you'll be paying top price. Contact Choose Chicago to double-check the latest convention info before you commit to your travel dates, as convention schedules can change.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Almost all public establishments in Chicago, including restaurants, hotels, and museums, provide accessible entrances and other facilities for those with disabilities. All city buses are equipped to accommodate wheelchairs, but not all El stations are accessible (some can be reached only via stairs). Contact the Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) at tel. 312/836-7000 for a list of accessible stations. For more information on facilities for people with disabilities, contact the Mayor's Office for People with Disabilities, 121 N. LaSalle St., Room 1104, Chicago, IL 60602 (tel. 312/744-7050 for voice, or 312/744-4964 for TTY; www.cityofchicago.org/disabilities). The office is staffed from 8:30am to 4:30pm Monday through Friday.

Horizons for the Blind, 2 N. Williams St., Crystal Lake, IL 60014 (tel. 815/444-8800), is a social service agency that provides information about local hotels equipped with Braille signage and cultural attractions that offer Braille signage and special tours. The Illinois Relay Center enables hearing- and speech-impaired TTY callers to call individuals or businesses without TTYs 24 hours a day. Calls are confidential and billed at regular phone rates. Call TTY at tel. 800/526-0844 or voice 800/526-0857. The city of Chicago operates a 24-hour information service for hearing-impaired callers with TTY equipment; call tel. 312/744-8599.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Passport Offices -- Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.)

Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866/382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16, payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).