Planning a trip to Chile

Special-Interest Vacations

Cooking Classes

Food and travel writer Liz Caskey (tel. 2/632-2015; www.lizcaskey.com) runs customized culinary programs that include tours to wineries, markets, and farms around Santiago. Day classes and weeklong courses are available.

Many tour operators run culinary tours through Santiago and the surrounding wine country that focus on visiting local farmers' markets, followed by a demonstration of the cooking techniques and discussion of the fresh produce that define Chilean gastronomy, all nicely rounded off with a gourmet lunch. Santiago Adventures (tel. 2/244-2750; www.santiagoadventures.com) charges $143 (£95) for such a trip, per person based on two people.

Language Classes

There is no shortage of Spanish language schools in Santiago and with the beach and mountains a short ride away, the city provides a great base for an active student life. Most of the city's reputable language schools are located in the residential areas of Providencia and Las Condes and offer total immersion programs with homestays that are usually a 20- to 30-minute journey on public transport from the school. Tuition and accommodations prices are considerably more expensive than other countries in Latin America; expect to pay between $2,500 and $3,000 (£1,667-£2,000) per month, including lessons (4-6 hr. per day) and accommodations in a private room with a host family, with two meals daily.

AmeriSpan (tel. 800/879-6640;www.amerispan.com) is well established in South America and takes the hassle out of planning; the school, lodging, airport pickup, and other services are all prearranged. Their Santiago school is located in a renovated 18th-century building in Providencia and group classes are limited to seven people. Prices also include organized activities per week. Another big player with a strong reputation is Spanish Abroad (tel. 888/722-7623; www.spanishabroad.com). Their school is also in the quiet neighborhood of Providencia, a few blocks from the Metro. Four classes are run daily, with a maximum of six students per class. Bridge Abroad (tel. 866/574-8606; www.bridgeabroad.com) offers 4 hours of group lessons and 2 hours of private lessons at their school in Providencia; they also host family accommodations and can arrange a number of activities and excursions.

Volunteer Opportunities

There are literally hundreds of volunteer organizations operating in Chile. Most opportunities are aimed at gap year students and young adults taking work sabbaticals. Opportunities range from teaching English in small towns (TEFL certificates are usually required) to working in orphanages, building schools, community development, environmental conservation, and wildlife and research programs. Accommodations and meals are usually included.

South American Explorers (www.saexplorers.cl) is a wonderful nonprofit organization that has earned cult status among seasoned backpackers, especially those traveling solo with its outreach community feel and volunteer programs. Offices throughout South America provide fact sheets (available online) detailing hotels, transport information, entry requirements, travel advisories, and tour ideas. You are required to become a member of the club ($60/£40 per year), but if you are a regular visitor to the continent or just an armchair travel junkie, it's well worth it.

Also check out the following websites for details on volunteer programs in Chile:

• ELI (www.eliabroad.org)
• Mondo Challenge (www.mondochallenge.org)
• United Planet (www.unitedplanet.org)
• VE Global (www.ve-global.org)
• Volunteer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com)
• Volunteer Adventures (www.volunteeradventures.com)

Tips for Women Travelers

Chilean men are more "macho" than their Argentine counterparts, but they do not tend to whistle and make boisterous comments to women the way that Argentine men do. Chilean men instead leer, which can be annoying, creepy, or both. My advice is to just ignore the situation, as any kind of remark just seems to egg them on. Hitchhiking in rural areas by single women is common, but exercise caution. A lift up to a ski resort or into a national park that does not have public transportation is okay, but longer trips up and down the Pan-American Highway are best undertaken aboard one of the country's cheap and plentiful long-distance buses.

Tips for Families

Chileans love kids, and family-friendly lodging and kid's specials are the rule, not the exception. Many hotels feature playgrounds, swimming pools, child care, and attached rooms or space for additional beds, and some resorts offer full-scale kids' activities, giving parents a breather and a little "adult time." Few, if any, hotels (such as luxury hotels) refuse children, but be sure to check their policy anyway when booking.

When choosing lodging, check to see if a suite is cheaper than booking two connecting rooms. Most suites have a sofa bed, or at the very least the hotel can add an extra cot-style bed. A good bet for families spending several days in a destination is an apart-hotel or a cabaña, which are self-catering units with living areas and kitchens -- these options are frequently less expensive than a hotel room. Hotel chains such as the Radisson and the Sheraton occasionally offer specials for families with kids, but as a general rule, kids are either free when sharing a room with their parents, or are charged a minimal fee for an extra bed.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors, referred to in Chile as tercera edad, or "third age," will find plenty of discounts at museums and attractions, but not much else. Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) arranges outstanding study programs in Chile for those ages 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. INTRAV (tel. 800/456-8100; www.intrav.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler (not specifically seniors), with trips around the world that include guided safaris, polar expeditions, private-jet adventures, and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers.

Staying Connected

Telephones

You won't have to walk far to find a public phone box in most large towns and cities. Most phone boxes accept coins, but you will often find them jammed; it's much more efficient to buy a phone card, available from newsstands or Metro stations. Call centers are also omnipresent in Santiago and larger cities; they are often much cheaper and more comfortable than using a public phone, especially if they are privately operated. A local phone call requires 100 pesos; phone cards sold in kiosks offer better rates. Phone cards have individual instructions on long-distance dialing, and phone booths at telephone centers will provide instructions on dialing according to the carrier they use.

To place a call from your home country to Chile, dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.) plus the country code (56), plus the Chilean area code, followed by the number. For example, a call from the United States to Santiago would be 011+56+2+000+0000. To place a local call within Chile, dial the number; for long-distance national calls, dial a carrier prefix, then the area code, and then the number. (To place a collect call, dial a prefix and then 182 for an operator.) To place a direct international call from Chile, dial a carrier prefix followed by 0, then the country code of the destination you are calling, plus the area code and the local number.

Cellular numbers are seven digits with a prefix of 9, 8, or 7. Here's the tricky part. When dialing from a local landline to a cellphone, you must dial an additional prefix of 09 (for example, 099+000+0000); but this is not the case when dialing from cellphone to cellphone (for example, 9+000+0000) or from outside Chile (011+56+9+000+0000). To dial a landline from a cellphone, you must first dial 02 (for example, 02+2+000+0000 for a number in Santiago), but landline to landline you simply dial the number (for example, 2+000+0000).

Cellphones

Chile's two largest phone companies, Entel and Telefónica, operate on a GSM 1900 MHZ frequency. Any dual or multiband GSM cellphone will work in Chile, but you'll pay expensive roaming rates; check with your cellphone company before leaving. (In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T/Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM.)

If your cellphone does not have this capability, you can rent a phone, either before you leave home or upon arrival in Chile. Pre-departure, North Americans can rent a phone from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

In Chile, you can rent a phone at the Entel or Telefónica kiosks located on the arrival level at the Santiago airport and insert your own SIM card; you'll still pay regular roaming rates. Considering that Entel and Telefónica earn money when you dial using roaming rates, they do not rent phones with prepaid calling cards; however, they do sell phones for as low as $55 (£37), which includes a calling card with $19 (£13) in calls. Local calls average 50¢ (35p) and receiving calls is free; however, this option does not allow you to dial internationally. Both kiosks at the airport can be found in the arrival level, and are open daily from 6am to 9pm.

Internet Access

Nearly every hotel in Chile has an Internet station, but if for some reason they don't, cybercafes are commonplace and clustered around all commercial areas in every city's downtown area. Midrange and upscale hotel guest rooms have dataports, and more and more frequently, hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hotspots." The Santiago airport has Internet kiosks scattered throughout its gates for a per-minute fee.

Getting Around

By Plane

Given Chile's length, travelers, especially those short on time, must fly if planning to visit several destinations. LAN Airlines (tel. 866/435-9526 in the U.S., or 600/526-2000 in Chile; www.lan.com) is the leader of the airline pack in terms of destinations, frequency, and quality of service. LAN serves Arica, Iquique, Calama, Antofagasta, Concepción, Temuco, Valdivia, Osorno, Pucón (Dec-Feb only), Puerto Montt, Coyhaique (Balmaceda), and Punta Arenas. Sky Airline (tel. 600/600-2828; www.skyairline.cl) is another Chilean domestic carrier, with daily flights to all major cities. The Spanish-owned Aerolineas del Sur (tel. 800/710-300; www.aerolinasdelsur.cl) offers daily economical Santiago-Punta Arenas flights, and flies to Puerto Montt, Calama, Antofagasta, and Iquique.

If you're planning to visit several countries within South America, remember to check out LAN's South America Air Pass, which allows travelers to custom-book one-way flights around the continent and within Chile, for typically lower prices.

By Car

Car rentals for Santiago are totally unnecessary, but they do offer immense freedom if you are in the Lake District or wish to drive along the coast. Weekly rates for a compact vehicle, rented from and returned to the Santiago airport, average about $280 to $375 (£187-£250). Prices include basic insurance with no deductible and unlimited mileage, although some companies include full insurance in the price, with the exception of theft of car accessories such as a stereo. Each company sets its own policy, so comb carefully through the contract before signing it.

You may find cheaper rates by booking via an agency's website before you arrive. Most major American rental-car companies have offices in Chile, which are listed under the appropriate chapter for each company's location. To make a reservation from the United States, call Alamo (tel. 800/GO-ALAMO; www.alamo.com), Avis (tel. 800/230-4898; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; www.dollar.com), or Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com). If you haven't made a reservation, you can still rent from an agency kiosk at the airport.

Don't overlook a few of the local car rental agencies for cheaper prices; you'll sometimes find better value with the smaller operations. Note: If you plan to take the car over the border to Argentina, you'll need to make a request 3 to 4 days ahead of time for the proper paperwork to be set up, and pay $90 to $110 (£60-£73) extra for a stay of up to 14 days in Argentina. In this case, you'll need to reserve locally, not through a company's general website in your home country.

You don't need an international driver's license to rent a vehicle -- your current driver's license suffices. It's a disappearing practice, but the police, or carabineros, are allowed to stop motorists without reason, which they frequently do under the guise of "control." They usually just ask to see your license and then let you pass through their checkpoint.

Driving in Santiago is better than driving in some other capitals, but you'll find more considerate motorists outside of the capital. Drivers use their horn and indicators constantly to signal where they are turning or that they are passing another vehicle -- you should, too. On the highway, car and especially truck drivers signal to advise you that it's safe ahead to pass, but don't put your entire faith in the other driver's judgment, and give yourself ample space, as Chilean drivers have lead feet. The concept of "merging" is entirely foreign to Chilean drivers -- you'll need to be a little aggressive to get into another lane, or wait until all traffic passes by to enter. Right turns on red are forbidden unless otherwise indicated.

Outside Santiago, especially on roads off the Pan-American Highway (Carretera Panamericana), your major concern will be keeping an eye out for bicyclists and farm animals along the road. The Panamericana underwent a huge expansion and modernization program in 2001, and drivers must now pay for it via periodic tollbooths on the highway and at most highway exits. Tolls, or peajes, are expensive, ranging from $1.20 to $6 (80p-£4; note that tolls are higher from 5pm on Fri to midnight on Sun). Most country roads off the Panamericana are dirt, either smoothed with gravel or washboard bumpy and pothole scarred. Gasoline is sold in liters and is called bencina, and comes in three grades: 93, 95, and 97.

Car-rental agencies provide emergency road service. Be sure to obtain a 24-hour number before leaving with your rental vehicle. The Automóvil Club de Chile also offers services to its worldwide members, including emergency roadside service. For more information, contact the offices in Santiago, at Av. Andrés Bello 1863 (tel. 2/431-1000, or toll-free in Chile 600/464-4040; www.automovilclub.cl).

Maps can be hard to come by; Copec, the gas station chain, sells Automapa's Rutas de Chile road maps at most of its larger stations; however, maps often sell out. Hertz offers complete maps to renters, but many rental agencies don't; request one ahead of time and fully expect them to fall through on their promise. If they do, a few shops in the airport sell maps or the excellent Turistel guidebooks (also sold at most bookstores and a few kiosks on popular intersections in Santiago). They are in Spanish but provide detailed road maps, city maps, and visitor information -- you can even download and print maps from the website www.turistel.cl before you leave for your trip.

By Train

The company Empresa de los Farrocarriles del Estado (EFE) offers high-speed train service from Santiago to Chillán aboard modern and comfortable coaches, stopping along the way in Rancagua, San Fernando, and Talca, and passing through beautiful, pastoral landscapes along the way. Call EFE or check the website for updated information (tel. 600/585-5000; www.efe.cl), or check with your travel agent or hotel for a reservation.

By Bus

Traveling by bus is very common in Chile, and there are many companies to meet the demand. Fortunately, most Chilean buses are clean and efficient and an excellent choice for traveling shorter distances. Longer distances, Santiago to Calama, for example, can be excruciating, so reevaluate taking a flight, and check www.lan.com for last-minute flights if price is an issue. The main bus companies in the country are Pullman (tel. 2/334-6683; www.pullman.cl), Tur Bus (tel. 2/490-7500), Expreso Norte (tel. 2/777-4462), and Cruz del Sur (tel. 2/335-8358; www.busescruzdelsur.cl).

If you decide to travel for more than a few hours by bus, it helps to know your options. Standard buses go by the name clásico or pullman. An ejécutivo or semi-cama is a little like business class: lots of legroom and seats that recline farther. At the top end of the scale is the salón cama, which features seats that fold out into beds. A salón cama is an excellent way to get to a region such as the Lake District, as riders sleep all night and arrive in the morning. Fares are moderately priced and seats fill up fast, so buy a ticket as far in advance as possible. Ask what is included with your fare, and whether they serve meals or if they plan to stop at a restaurant along the way.

By Ferry & Local Cruises

Navimag offers an exceptional 3-day journey from Puerto Montt (Lake District) to Puerto Natales (Patagonia) or vice versa aboard a passenger/cargo ferry that introduces travelers to remote, virgin fjordland unseen outside of Norway. The journey is very popular with backpackers with a lot of time on their hands and who enjoy the camaraderie that often develops among passengers during the journey. Navimag is not a luxury liner, but there are berths that provide enough standard comfort for even finicky travelers.

Transmarchilay has cargo ferries for vehicles that link Puerto Montt and Chiloé with the Carretera Austral. Andina del Sud and Cruce de Lagos work together to provide countless visitors with a full-day cruise between Argentina and Chile in a boat-bus-boat combination through Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park near Puerto Varas and Nahuel Huapi Lake at Bariloche, Argentina. The demanding traveler will find ample comfort aboard the small cruise ships provided by the following companies.

Skorpios has 4- and 7-day cruises from Puerto Montt or Puerto Chacabuco, stopping at Castro and Quellón in Chiloé before or after the Laguna San Rafael Glacier; they also have a dock in Puerto Natales that takes passengers to Pío XI Glacier (the only advancing glacier off the Southern Ice Field) and the remote village Puerto Eden. The ship Mare Australis offers an unforgettable journey through the untouched wilderness of Tierra del Fuego, either as a round-trip journey from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia and back, or one-way.

Calendar of Events

The following are some of Chile's major events and festivals that take place during the year. Contact Sernatur (www.sernatur.cl) for additional information.

February

Festival Costumbrista Chilote, Chiloé. The city of Castro hosts a celebration of the culture, history, and mythical folklore that makes the island unique. Part of this celebration is centered around making chicha from fermented apples and curanto, a slowly cooked combo of shellfish and pork steamed over hot rocks in the ground and covered with nalca leaves. Early February.

Semana Valdiviana, Valdivia. This grand weeklong event features a variety of maritime-theme activities, contests, expositions, and more. The highlight takes place on the third Saturday of February, the "Noche Valdiviana," when the Río Valdivia fills with festively decorated boats and candles, and the skies fill with fireworks. This is a very crowded event, and advance hotel reservations are essential. Mid-February.

Festival de la Canción, Viña del Mar. The gala Festival of Song showcases Latin American performers and usually one or two hot international acts during a 5-day festival of concerts held in the city's outdoor amphitheater. The spectacle draws thousands of visitors to an already packed Viña del Mar, so plan your hotel reservations accordingly. Late February.

March/April

Fiesta del Cuasimodo. This event is held mostly in towns in central Chile, in which huaso cowboys parade through the streets accompanied by Catholic priests who often pay visits to the infirm and people with disabilities. First Sunday after Easter.

June

Fiesta de San Pedro. Fishermen celebrate in towns along the coast of Chile to bring about good fortune, weather, and bountiful catches. They decorate their boats, light candles, arm themselves with an image of their patron saint, and drift along the coast. A great place to check out this event is Valparaíso. June 29.

July

La Tirana. Almost abandoned during most of the year, this tiny Atacama Desert village, east of Iquique, hosts Chile's most important traditional religious festivals, including La Tirana ("The Tyrant"), named after a legendary -- and legendarily cruel -- Inca princess who converted to Christianity and was martyred. Close to a quarter million of the faithful, including 207 religious associations in colorful costumes, swarm the town for the Virgen del Carmen commemorations. It's best to stay in Iquique, though the dancing goes on all night. Other major pilgrimages here occur January 5 and 6 (Three Wise Men or Magi), Holy Week, and Independence Day. July 10-19.

Virgen del Carmen. The patron saint of the armed forces is celebrated with military parades throughout the country, especially near Maipú, where Chile's liberators O'Higgins and San Martín defeated Spanish forces in the fight for independence. July 16.

Carnaval de Invierno. Two days' worth of parade floats and fireworks inject some cheer into the dank, dark, sub-Antarctic winter in Punta Arenas. Last week of July.

September

Independence Day. While serious, stiff official commemorative parades are held in Santiago and Valparaíso, everywhere in Chile around "El Dieciocho" (the 18th) and Armed Forces Day (the 19th), festivities abound in fondas, mostly outdoor fairs under armadas, tree branches and reeds offering shade or a place to string up multicolored light bulbs. The biggest celebration is La Pampilla, near Coquimbo. Grilled meats and empanadas abound, along with rivers of wine and pisco, and live traditional music adds to the merry-making under ubiquitous national flags. September 18-19.

Rodeo season kick-off. Chile's rodeo season starts on Independence Day and culminates with a championship in the city of Rancagua around late March or early April. There are a variety of rodeo dates throughout the Central Valley, but September 18 and the championships are festivals in their own right, with food stalls, lots of chicha (a fermented fruit cider) drinking, and traditional cueca dancing. Contact the Federación de Rodeos in Santiago at tel./fax 2/420-2553, or visit www.huasosyrodeos.cl for a schedule of rodeos throughout Chile. September 18.

December

Fiesta Grande. The remote mining village of Andacollo, south of La Serena, proudly boasts a purportedly miracle-working wooden statue of the Virgin Mary. In her honor, an astounding 400,000 pilgrims congregate here on December 26, following a tradition begun in 1584, with dancers drawing on pre-colonial traditions. A smaller commemoration takes place on the first Sunday in October. December 26.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Gays and lesbians visiting Chile will most likely not encounter any prejudice or outward intolerance. However, public displays of affection between same sexes are rare, even in metropolitan cities such as Santiago. In general, attitudes, especially those of Chilean men, toward gays and lesbians are not very liberal, owing in part to the Catholic, conservative nature of their society. Homosexual relationships have only recently been declared officially legal, and many gays and lesbians are not actively open about their orientation outside their own circles. In Santiago, the two most gay-friendly neighborhoods are Bellavista and Parque Forestal (also known as Bellas Artes).

The best source for information is the website www.santiagogay.com, a resource directory that covers gay issues and provides information about travel, gay-oriented businesses and bars, employment, and more. Gay Adventure Tours, Inc. (tel. 888/206-6523; www.gayadventuretours.com) occasionally offers trips to Chile. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.com) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to the website and click on "Members."

Getting There

By Plane

Several major airlines serve Santiago's Arturo Merino Benítez airport (SCL) with direct flights from Miami, Atlanta, New York, Dallas-Fort Worth, Los Angeles, and Toronto. Turbulent times in the airline industry mean that fares can vary wildly depending on the time of year, departure location, and price wars that periodically break out. Most flights are red-eyes.

Note: LAN Airlines has a South America Pass for travelers who would like to visit more than one destination in Chile, or more than one country in South America. The pass gives travelers the opportunity to customize their own journey by purchasing one-way tickets to 49 cities in Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Paraguay, and Uruguay. The glitch is that travelers must produce a round-trip air ticket to South America aboard LAN or any other "oneworld Alliance" airlines, and there is a minimum of three legs that must be purchased. Check the website to build a flight combination, then contrast the fare with your travel agent's fare or any other Web-generated fare; a promotional deal might be cheaper than the South America Pass's fixed prices for its routes. Visit the website for more information and for suggested itineraries.

From North America -- The country's national air carrier LAN Airlines (tel. 866/435-9526; www.lan.com) has daily flights to Santiago from New York and Los Angeles, and nonstop flights from Miami. Check its website on Wednesdays for cheap, last-minute (and heavily restricted) fares from Miami. American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) has daily nonstop flights from Miami and Dallas-Fort Worth, with connections from Vancouver, Toronto, and Montreal. Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) offers nonstop daily flights from Atlanta. Costa Rica's Lacsa airline, of the parent company Taca (tel. 800/535-8780; www.taca.com), has flights from San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York, or Miami with a stopover in Costa Rica or El Salvador. Air Canada offers nonstop service from Toronto to Santiago (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com). Tip: The airline with the most gracious service and the best planes (domestically and internationally) is LAN Airlines, by a long shot.

From Europe & the U.K. -- LAN Airlines (tel. 0800/917-0572 in the U.K.; www.lan.com) serves London to Santiago via Madrid, in partnership with Iberia and British Airways, or try booking directly with Iberia (tel. 800/772-4642 in the U.S., or 0870/609-0500 in London; www.iberia.com) or with British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850; www.ba.com). Air France (tel. 0870/142-4343; www.airfrance.com/uk) has two to five daily flights from London to Santiago via Paris. KLM (tel. 0870/142-4343; www.klm.com) and Lufthansa (tel. 0870/8377-747; www.lufthansa.com) also serve Santiago.

From Australia & New Zealand -- Qantas (tel. 13-13-13 in Australia, or 0800/808-767 in New Zealand; www.qantas.com) works in conjunction with LAN, offering four flights per week from Sydney and Auckland to Santiago. Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 2/9234-9000 in Australia, or 9/379-3675 in New Zealand; www.aerolineas.com) has three weekly direct flights from Sydney and Auckland to Buenos Aires, Argentina, with a connecting flight to Santiago aboard LAN.

Visitor Information

You'll find a municipal tourism office in nearly every city and the national tourism board Sernatur (www.sernatur.cl) offices in major cities. The quality of service and availability of printed matter, such as maps and brochures, varies from office to office. Visitors are usually better off planning ahead via Internet research, booking a tour, or seeking the assistance of a hotel concierge than relying on the advice of a Sernatur clerk.

Most general travel sites in Chile have converted into for-profit booking centers; however, most top tourism destinations produce their own independent sites. Try the content-rich sites www.sanpedroatacama.com and www.torresdelpaine.com.

• Turistel (www.turistel.cl): Turistel, a Spanish-language road-guide series, has a website with route maps that can be downloaded by clicking on mapas ruteros. I strongly recommend that travelers renting vehicles arrive prepared, as many agencies will not provide detailed road maps.

When to Go

Brazilians and Argentines vacation during the summer from December 15 to the end of February, as well as the 2 middle weeks of July and Holy Week (Semana Santa), the week preceding Easter Sunday. These dates coincide with school vacations. In spite of cheaper deals during the off-season, nearly everyone from these three countries takes his or her vacation during high season, and consequently the teeming masses seen in popular destinations such as Pucón or Viña del Mar during this time can be overwhelming. If that weren't enough, consider that hotels and businesses in tourist areas jack up their prices in anticipation of vacationers who come with money to burn. If you travel to Chile during this time, book a room well in advance. Or you can do as most North American and Europeans do and come from late September to early December for the spring bloom, or from March to June, when the trees turn color; both seasons have pleasant weather, and destinations around Chile are less crowded, and in some cases completely empty of people. In fact, it's preferable to be in the extreme regions of Chile during these "off-seasons." In northern regions, such as San Pedro de Atacama, the searing heat during the summer is a killer. In Patagonia, the fierce wind blows from October to April but is most consistent in December and January.

The only exception to this high-season rule is in Santiago. Summer is in fact the most pleasant time to visit, as Santiaguinos head out for vacation, easing traffic, reducing smog, and dropping rates in most hotels.

Climate -- Chile's thin, drawn-out territory stretches over 38 degrees of latitude, encompassing every climate found in the world except tropical. In many areas there are microclimates, pockets of localized weather that can completely alter the vegetation and landscape of a small area.

The northern region of Chile is so dry that some desert areas have never recorded rain. Summer temperatures from early December to late February in this region can top 100°F (38°C), then drop dramatically at night to 30°F (-1°C). Winter days, from mid-June to late August, are crisp but sunny and pleasant; but, as soon as the sun drops, the temperature turns bitterly cold. Along the coast, the weather is mild and dry, ranging from 60° to 90°F (16°-32°C) during the summer.

The Santiago and Central Valley region features a Mediterranean climate, with rain during the winter only and temperatures that range from 32° to 55°F (0°-13°C) in the winter, and 60° to 95°F (16°-35°C) during the summer. Farther south, the Lake District and the Carretera Austral are home to sopping wet winters, and overcast days and rain are not uncommon during the summer, especially in the regions around Valdivia and Puerto Montt.

The Magellanic Region presents unpredictable weather patterns, especially during the summer, with extraordinary windstorms that can reach upwards of 120kmph (75 mph), and occasional rain. The windiest months are mid-December to late February, but it can blow any time between October and April. Winters are calm, with irregular snowfall and temperatures that can dip to 5°F (-15°C).

Public Holidays -- Chile's national holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1), Good Friday (late Mar or Apr), Labor Day (May 1), Remembrance of the War of the Pacific Victory (May 21), Corpus Christi (late May or early June), St. Peter & St. Paul Day (June 26), Asunción de la Virgen (Aug 15), Independence Day and Armed Forces Day, the major holiday of the year (Sept 18-19), Indigenous Day (Oct 12), All Saints' Day (Nov 1), Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Dec 8), and Christmas (Dec 25).

Virtually every business in Chile shuts on public holidays, as is the case with national and local elections (midnight-midnight). Alcohol is not sold on election days.

Tips on Accommodations

In most cities and towns throughout Chile, you will usually find a broad range of accommodations choices. Low-cost hostel options start at $15/£10 per night while a budget hotel room will cost between $20 and $40 (£13-£27) per night. There are several great-value gems (which I have listed in the guide), but for the most part medieval dimensions and a paucity of services are the rule. Midrange hotels start at around $75/£50 and offer a more salubrious aura, dapper service, and plusher rooms. Expensive and luxury hotels will set you back at least $150/£100 per night and include some of the finest hotels on the continent, the Ritz, Hyatt, and explora groups being the flag bearers for sheer indulgence. A new wave of charming adobe-style lodges and decadent spas also provides a perfect fusion of style and substance.

It is imperative that you consider Chile's high season when planning your trip, as prices are sky-high and reservations are hard to come by without advance planning. High season runs from December 15 to the end of February, Easter week, and for 2 weeks around the middle of July, and hotels in tourist regions may extend their high season to include November and March. Some hotels drop their prices by as much as 50% in the off season. Hotel price ranges listed in this guidebook reflect low to high season rates.

The prices listed in this guide are also rack rates -- that is, a hotel's standard or advertised rate. Don't be shy about negotiating a discount with a hotel. Owners are accustomed to paying a 20% commission to tour operators, so they will often consider dropping the price slightly during the off-season (or for multiday stays). Alternately, check a hotel's website or simply ask if there is a promotion or package deal being offered that you're not aware of. Remember that if you pay in Chilean pesos for a room that's quoted in U.S. dollars, you'll often have to pay an IVA tax. Sometimes euros may also be accepted, but don't expect to be able to pay in any other foreign currency.

A sales tactic that is creeping its way into the cheap hotelier's lingo is the "bed-and-breakfast," but don't buy it. The term is redundant because every hotel, with the exception of the dirt-cheap hostel, includes breakfast in its price. Expect a continental breakfast at inexpensive and moderately priced hotels and an "American" or buffet breakfast at larger, high-end hotels.

Note: Air-conditioning is not necessarily a given in many hotels throughout the country. In general, this is not a problem. Cooler nights and a well-placed ceiling fan are often more than enough to keep things pleasant.

House-Swapping

House-swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get an authentic and personal view of the area, the opposite of the escapist retreat that many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (Homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with over 11,000 listings worldwide ($75 for a yearly membership). HomeExchange.org ($49.95 for 6,000 listings) and InterVac.com ($68.88 for over 10,000 listings) are also reliable. Many travelers find great housing swaps on Craigslist (www.craigslist.org), too, though the offerings cannot be vetted or vouched for. Swap at your own risk.

Hotel Options

Apart-Hotel -- This amalgam is exactly what it implies: an "apartment-hotel," or a hotel room with an additional living area and kitchen. Found primarily in Santiago and other large cities, they offer a wider range of services than a cabaña. Some are bargains for their price and come with maid service. However, some are nothing more than a hotel room with a kitchenette tucked into a random corner.

Cabañas -- Cabañas are a versatile lodging option. They are commonly found in resort areas and are popular with families and travelers seeking an independent unit. They resemble cabins or chalets and range from bare-bones to deluxe, although all come with fully equipped kitchens, and most have maid service.

Hostería -- An hostería is a guesthouse or hotel attended by its owner, typically found in a country setting.

Residenciales & Hostels -- These lodging options are for budget travelers. Residenciales are private homes whose owners rent out rooms, and they range from simple, clean rooms with a private or shared bathroom to ugly spaces with creepy bathrooms. In towns that see more tourists, a hostel can be a hip and very comfortable place run by foreigners or Chileans, typically from Santiago. Some hostels are private homes that use their living area as a common area, and some of them can be very comfortable.

Refugios -- Refugios, which are common in Patagonia, are remote and rustic lodges that are similar to cabins. They are wonderful places to mix and mingle with fellow trekkers, and allow you to hike without a heavy pack loaded with a tent. Still, you'll want to bring your own sleeping bag, and book your bunk at refugios months ahead of time to secure your spot.

Regions in Brief

Sandwiched between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, Chile's lengthy, serpentine shape at first glance seems preposterous: nearly 4,830km (3,000 miles) of land stretching from the arid northern desert to the wild desolation of Patagonia, and a width that averages 180km (112 miles). Chile encompasses such a breathtaking array of landscapes and temperate zones (the only zone not found here is tropical), it is hard to believe such variation can exist in just one country.

Santiago & the Central Valley -- The central region of Chile, including Santiago and its environs, features a mild, Mediterranean climate, which reminds many of California. This is Chile's breadbasket, with fertile valleys and rolling fields that harvest a large share of the country's fruit and vegetables; it also is the site of world-famous Chilean wineries. Santiago's proximity to ski resorts, beach resorts, and the idyllic countryside with its campestral and ranching traditions and colonial estates, offers a distinct variety of activities that make the Central Valley an excellent destination.

La Serena & the Elqui Valley -- Aside from tiny villages in the Atacama Desert, La Serena is the only town in Chile that still lives and breathes the colonial Spanish heritage. La Serena's rough-and-tumble neighbor Coquimbo is experiencing a renaissance as a nightlife hub and boasts Chile's biggest outdoor fair, La Pampilla; and numerous beaches make this one of Chile's top summer holiday destinations, particularly for families. But it's not just beach-hopping and watersports: An array of attractions (including some of the world's greatest astronomical observatories, archaeological sites, religious festivities, nature preserves, and the relaxing Elqui Valley in the Andes) offers something for anyone seeking a quiet country rest or a desert, ocean, or mountain adventure -- in other words, a little bit of everything.

The Desert North -- This region claims the world's driest desert, a beautiful "wasteland" set below a chain of purple and pink volcanoes and high-altitude salt flats. The most popular destinations here, including the Atacama Desert, sit at altitudes of 2,000m (6,560 ft.) and up. The extreme climate and the geological forces at work in this region have produced far-out land formations and superlatives such as the highest geyser field in the world. The earth here is parched, sun-baked, and unlike anything you've ever seen, but it gives relief through many of its tiny emerald oases, such as San Pedro de Atacama and Valle del Elqui..

The Lake District -- Few destinations in the world rival the lush scenery of Chile's Lake District, and for that reason it's the most popular destination for foreigners visiting Chile. This region is packed with a chain of conical, snowcapped volcanoes; glacier-scoured valleys; several national parks; thick groves of native forest; hot springs; jagged peaks; and, of course, many shimmering lakes. Temperatures during the summer are idyllic, but winter is characterized by months of drizzling rain. It's an outdoors-lover and adventure-seeker's paradise, especially in Pucón and Puerto Varas, offering biking, hiking, kayaking, rafting, fly-fishing, and more, but it is also a low-key destination for those who just want to kick back and enjoy the marvelous views.

Chiloe -- The island of Chiloé is as attractive for its emerald, rolling hills and colorful wooden churches as it is for the unique culture that developed after 300 years of geographic isolation. Picturesque fishing hamlets and views that stretch from the Pacific to the Andes make for fine sightseeing drives, and Chiloé National Park offers ample opportunity for hiking along the island's untamed coastal rainforest.

The Carretera Austral -- Across the sound from Chiloé sits Chile's "frontier" highway, commonly known as the Carretera Austral, a dirt road that stretches nearly 1,000km (620 miles) from Puerto Montt in the north to beyond Coyhaique in the south. Along the way, this relatively new road passes through virgin territory visited by few travelers: tiny villages speckled among thick virgin rainforest, and rugged peaks from which waterfalls descend. This area could be one of Chile's best-kept secrets.

Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego -- Also known as the Magallanes Region, Patagonia has soared in popularity over the past decade, drawing visitors from all over the world to places such as Torres del Paine National Park. Patagonia is characterized by vast open pampa similar to a prairie, the colossal Northern and Southern Ice Fields and hundreds of mighty glaciers, the peaks of the Andes as they fade into the southern Pacific Ocean at their terminus, emerald fjords, and wind, wind, wind. Getting here is an adventure -- it usually takes 24 hours if coming directly from the United States or Europe -- but the singular beauty of the region renders the journey worth it. Cruise through emerald fjords, walk across a glacier, stroll through frontierlike immigrant towns such as Puerto Natales, and, without a doubt, visit Chile's national jewel, Torres del Paine.

Tierra del Fuego, South America's largest island, sits across the Strait of Magellan and is shared by both Chile and Argentina. There is one town here on the Chilean side, Porvenir; the rest of the island is populated with more beavers than people.

Easter Island -- Easter Island, or "Rapa Nui," is the world's most remote island, located farthest away from land than any other island. Annexed by Chile in 1888, the island is famous for its moai sculptures that dot the landscape and awe every visitor. Easter Island offers much more by the way of archaeology -- the entire island is a veritable living museum -- and there are two dreamy beaches, phenomenal scuba diving in the island's crystal-clear, periwinkle blue water, wild horses, and a people whose Polynesian culture is thriving despite having been nearly decimated. This is a destination that will exceed all expectations, but you'll need to come with a hang-loose attitude.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The principal environmental problems that confront Chile are deforestation and air, water, and land pollution. Santiago is one of Latin America's most polluted cities, and air pollution there has become an acute problem; children and the elderly and infirm are frequently advised to stay indoors for days on end due to dangerous levels of toxic pollutants that enshroud the capital. Rapid urban expansion, industrial emissions from the copper mining sector, and the increased volume of car traffic are cited as the main causes of Santiago's air pollution. Mining is responsible for releasing the chief air and water pollutants, including sulfur dioxide and arsenic. In 2000, the city faced an unprecedented pollution emergency when over 200,000 vehicles were prohibited from driving on the roads and offending industries were shut down. Fortunately, in the last few years, environmental issues have taken a more prominent role in domestic politics and, while the pace is slow, government initiatives have gone a long way to improving the situation.

The indiscriminate logging of Chile's temperate forests has resulted in the tragic disappearance of thousand-year-old forests. The most publicized case of illegal logging, which has been taken up by environmental agencies, including Greenpeace, is that of the rare alerce tree, which is found in the Andes and can live for up to 3,500 years. Similar to Californian redwood trees, its robustness and impermeability make it an extremely valuable commodity; a cubic meter can sell for as high as $5,300/£3,533 on the international black market. Under Pinochet, logging of the alerce reached its sickening nadir, and while new laws introduced in 1974 have protected the species under international law, logging still exists due to a loophole that allows for the extraction and commercialization of trees that were cut before the law was passed. Greenpeace has denounced CONAF, the Chilean National Parks and Wildlife Service, for its complicity in the illegal logging industry and has made persistent calls for the Chilean government to declare a national moratorium on alerce logging permits.

Many animals are in serious risk of extinction throughout the country, as well. As of 2001, of the 91 listed mammals in Chile, some 16 species were registered as endangered. Almost 5% of Chile's 298 breeding bird species are threatened with extinction, most notably the tundra peregrine falcon, the Chilean woodstar, and the ruddy-headed goose. Also threatened are four types of freshwater fish and over 250 plant species.

Chile hasn't made great strides in the sustainable accommodations arena. Patagonia, and to a lesser extent Easter Island, are the only areas with truly environmentally conscious hotels. Hotels in the Patagonia region are some of the most innovative on the continent when it comes to sustainability. The striking Remota Hotel in Puerto Natales has natural grasses planted on the roof, simplified heating from appropriate sun exposure, energy-efficient lighting, and low-consumption water systems. At press time, the explora Salto Chico Hotel, in nearby Torres del Paine, was midway through receiving prestigious LEED certification from the United States Green Building Council.

Nearby, Indigo Patagonia includes an advanced insulation system that requires no central heating for most of the spring and summer, and bright natural solar lighting that reduces the need for bulbs. Inside the hotel, there's extensive recycling. The new Patagonia Camp was built completely on stilts so as to have a minimal impact, and houses a gray-water treatment system and solar-powered lighting.

With their near-nothing eco-footprint, the colorful domes at Eco-Camp Patagonia, inside Torres del Paine National Park, have been awarded the rigorous Swiss-based ISO 14001 certification. It's the only property in Patagonia to garner this award for its eco-efforts, including using alternative energy, waste water processing, and compost toilets.

In 2009, the explora Posada de Mike Rapu in Easter Island became the first hotel in Latin America to attain LEED certification from the U.S. Green Building Council and the 13th in the world to achieve this distinction. Construction followed LEED recommendations while protecting the delicate surroundings of the island.

As the popularity of Antarctic tourism has boomed over the past few years, so have concerns about the safety of both the local ecology and the tourists who are venturing to see the continent. A handful of incidents involving expedition ships sinking, running aground, or hitting rock or ice in Antarctic waters have set off alarm bells. Controversial calls in mid-2009 for stricter regulations, including drastic limits on visitor numbers and ship sizes, could have a serious impact on tourism. A proposal to ban ships carrying more than 500 passengers from any landing sites, and to limit the number going ashore at any time to 100, was recently approved by members of the Antarctic Treaty. Remember, though, that these regulations are voluntary under international law, since the Antarctic has no internationally-recognized governance body.

In recent years, dog-sledding, a popular activity in southern Chile, has become shrouded in controversy as global animal rights activists have launched a series of campaigns highlighting the brutal effects of pushing the dogs too hard under extreme conditions. For information on this and other animal-friendly issues in Chile, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 2pm, and are closed on Saturday and Sunday. Many commercial offices close for a long lunch hour, which can vary from business to business. Generally, hours are Monday through Friday from 10am to 7pm, closing for lunch around 1 or 1:30pm and reopening at 2:30 or 3pm.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18; alcohol is sold every day of the year, with the exception of general elections.

Electricity -- Chile's electricity standard is 220 volts/50Hz. Electrical sockets have two openings for tubular pins, not flat prongs; adapters are available from most travel stores. Always bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies & Consulates -- The only U.S. representative in Chile is the U.S. Embassy in Santiago, located at Av. Andrés Bello 2800 (tel. 2/232-2600; www.usembassy.cl). The Canadian Embassy is at Nuevo Tajamar 481, 12th floor (tel. 2/362-9660; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/chile). The British Embassy can be found at El Bosque Norte 0125 (tel. 2/370-4100; www.britemb.cl). The Australian Embassy is at Isidora Goyenechea 3621 (tel. 2/550-3500; www.chile.embassy.gov.au). The New Zealand Embassy is at Av. Golf 99, no. 703 (tel. 2/290-9800; www.nzembassy.com/chile).

Emergencies -- You'll want to contact the staff if something happens to you in your hotel. Otherwise, for a police emergency, call tel. 133. For fire, call tel. 132. To call an ambulance, dial tel. 131.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, in Chile, the cost of gasoline was $1.17 (78p) per liter. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Language -- Spanish is the official language of Chile. Many Chileans in the tourism industry and in major cities speak basic English, but don't count on it. Try to learn even a dozen basic Spanish phrases before arriving; Frommer's Spanish PhraseFinder & Dictionary will facilitate your trip tremendously.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- The postal service, called Correos de Chile (tel. 800/267736 or 2/956-0200; www.correosdechile.cl), is very reliable and offers regular and certified mail. Prices for a letter under 20 grams are, respectively, 400 pesos and 925 pesos (70¢/50p and $1.60/£1.05). For express mail services, try FedEx (www.fedex.cl) or DHL (www.dhl.cl), both of which have several locations in Santiago and around Chile.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The major dailies are the conservative El Mercurio and the more moderate La Tercera, and the left-leaning La Nación. The newspaper La Segunda is an afternoon paper with scant news and screaming headlines; La Cuarta is a sensationalistic rag but a lot of fun to read if you know anything about Chilean politics or celebrities. Another fun read is The Clinic, a satirical weekly named for the London hospital where Pinochet was arrested. You'll find 2-day-old editions of the New York Times and North American and European magazines at one of two kiosks in downtown. Both are located on the pedestrian walkway Ahumada (Metro: Univ. de Chile) on the right-hand side when heading up from Avenida Alameda: One is a half-block from Avenida Alameda (this kiosk has cheaper prices), and the other is at Húerfanos. Most kiosks around Santiago sell English editions of Time and Newsweek, and The Economist.

Smoking -- Traditionally laissez faire when it comes to smoking regulations, in 2006, Chile introduced stringent new laws requiring restaurants to provide designated nonsmoking areas and a prohibition of cigarette sales within 300 feet of schools. It is not unusual for Chileans to light up between courses and a lack of social etiquette toward nonsmokers certainly still prevails. Most upscale and boutique hotels don't allow smoking.

Time -- Chile is 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) from the first Sunday in October until the second Sunday in March; the country is 6 hours behind during the rest of the year. An easy way to remember the time zone switch is that from mid-March to mid-October, Chile is in the same time zone as the eastern U.S. or 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time; from mid-October to mid-March, Chile is 2 hours ahead of the eastern seaboard of the U.S.

Tipping -- The customary tip in restaurants is 10%. Taxi drivers do not receive tips, nor do hair stylists. Bellhops should be tipped $2 to $3 (£1.30-£2). Gas stations are full-serve, and attendants are tipped $1.25 to $2.50 (85p-£1.70).

Health & Insurance

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845 606 2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment;" for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Staying Healthy

Chile poses few health risks to travelers, and no special vaccinations are required. In fact, there are no poisonous plants or animals in Chile. Nevertheless, standard wisdom says that travelers should get tetanus and hepatitis boosters before leaving.

Dietary Ailments -- Few visitors to Chile experience anything other than run-of-the-mill traveler's stomach in reaction to unfamiliar foods and any microorganisms in them, but even this is uncommon. As a general rule, it's best to eat shellfish only in reputable restaurants or those that are near the sea and receive fresh supplies daily.

In many large cities and towns, Chile's tap water is clean and safe to drink. Seek local advice, if you are in doubt; or, to be on the safe side, drink bottled water -- it's widely available throughout Chile. In San Pedro de Atacama, do not under any circumstances drink tap water, as it contains trace amounts of arsenic.

Altitude Sickness -- Altitude sickness, known as soroche or puna, is a temporary yet often debilitating affliction that affects about a quarter of travelers to the northern altiplano, or the Andes at 2,400m (7,872 ft.) and up. Nausea, fatigue, headaches, shortness of breath, sleeplessness, and feeling "out of it" are the symptoms, which can last from 1 to 5 days. If affected, drink plenty of water, take aspirin or ibuprofen, and avoid alcohol and sleeping pills -- or better yet, avoid the condition by acclimatizing yourself by breaking the climb to higher regions into segments.

Sun & The Ozone Layer -- Do not take this lightly. Chile's ozone layer, especially in the southern region and Patagonia, is thinner than in the U.S. or Europe, and you'll burn a lot faster here, especially if you're in high altitudes. In Patagonia, "red alert" days (Sept-Nov) mean that fair-skinned visitors can burn within 10 minutes. Protect yourself with sun block, a long-sleeved shirt, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses. Slap sunscreen on even when at the beach in Viña.

General Availability of Health Care -- Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Embassy in Santiago (tel. 2/232-2600; www.usembassy.cl) also has a list of English-speaking doctors that you can download from the website. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home -- Medical care in Santiago is world-class, and many doctors are English-speaking. In smaller towns, always visit a private clinic instead of a public hospital. Some rural areas have only a basic clinic, and you'll need to travel to the nearest large town for more complicated procedures. I list hospitals and emergency numbers under "Fast Facts" throughout this guide.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure -- especially if planning to visit high altitudes. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later.

Staying Safe

Chile is one of the safest countries in Latin America, with little political unrest, corruption, or violent crime. A traveler's principal concerns are pickpockets and break-ins, which are on the rise in cities like Santiago. Never leave valuables in your rental car, and always keep a close eye on your belongings when in public.

Police officers wear olive-green uniforms and are referred to as carabineros, or colloquially as pacos. Never, ever, think about bribing a police officer -- you'll be taken straight to the comiseria (police station). Chile's police force is fair and courteous to travelers, if just not very effective when it comes to petty crime. If you've been robbed, your insurance company will most likely ask for a police report, called a constancia, which you can get at any police station.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a dreaded "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers more than 40 active-travel solo trips to destinations worldwide, including Chile.

The Lay of the Land

Chile's Ecosystems

Sandwiched between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean with a width that averages just 180km (112 miles) and some 4,830km (3,000 miles) of land, stretching from the arid northern desert to the wild desolation of Patagonia, Chile encompasses a dazzling array of landscapes and temperate zones. It is hard to believe such variation can exist in just one country; in fact, the only zone not found here is tropical.

The central region of Chile, including Santiago and its environs, features a mild, Mediterranean climate, reminiscent of California, while the Atacama region claims the world's driest desert, a beautiful "wasteland" set below a chain of purple and pink volcanoes and high-altitude salt flats. The Atacama Desert sits at altitudes of 2,000m (6,560 ft.) and up. The extreme climate and the geological forces at work in this region have produced far-out land formations and superlatives such as the highest geyser field in the world.

Few destinations in the world rival the lush scenery of Chile's Lake District. Over 10,000 years ago, retreating glaciers formed barriers of rock producing magnificent lakes and perfect conical, snowcapped volcanoes that burst skyward from beneath the glacial shield here. Today the Lake District is a dense, temperate, rainforest ecosystem packed with thick groves of native forest and shimmering lakes. Across the sound from the emerald rolling hills of Chiloé sits Chile's "frontier" highway, commonly known as the Carretera Austral, where tiny villages are speckled among thick virgin rainforest and waterfalls descend from rugged peaks.

Also known as the Magallanes Region, Patagonia is characterized by vast open steppe; colossal Northern and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields and hundreds of mighty glaciers; the peaks of the Andes, fading into the southern Pacific Ocean at their terminus; emerald fjords; and wind, wind, wind. At lower altitudes, valley ecosystems comprised of granite rocks have been chafed by glaciations and sedimentary deposits. Vegetation here is characterized by temperate, evergreen forests. There is no dry season, and rainfall is constant.

Easter Island, or "Rapa Nui," is the most remote island in the world, located farthest away from land than any other. With its distinctive ecosystem, comprised of subtropical forests and scant precipitation, this largely volcanic island is composed of three extinct volcanoes and a number of volcanic craters and caves, and is carpeted with grasslands. Recently, Easter Island has suffered from soil erosion as a result of mass deforestation that is denuding the landscape of its statuesque palm forests.

Flora and Fauna

Chile's climatic and topographical features correspond to defined botanical regions that boast a rich diversity of flora. Ethereal Atacama, which extends from the far north into Bolivia, is a desolate, lunar landscape where at higher altitudes cacti provide the only vegetation. In the central regions, greater rainfall and a humid environment produce shrubbery and trees with leaves known as sclerohyllous ("hard" leaves that facilitate a greater absorption of water). Predominant tree species include the guayacan, litre, lun, and peumo. The central valley is also characterized by hard espinos, a species of cactus, as well as the endangered Chilean palm, which can be seen in abundance at Parque Nacional La Campana.

Desert brush lands sweep the altiplano (a high Andean plateau comprised of intermontane basins), which yield to more verdant grasslands on the lower slopes of the Andes. In the region south of the Bío-Bío River, temperate rainforests with high precipitation have yielded over 45 species of endemic trees. Magnolias, laurels, oaks, conifers, and beeches thrive in the dense forests here, but perhaps the most striking is the distinctive monkey puzzle tree (araucaria), Chile's national tree.

The frigid temperatures and violent winds of Patagonia preclude a rich diversity of forestation. The coigüe, lenga, and ñirre are the three principal endemic tree species of Patagonian forests. The coicopihue (Philesia magellanica) yields Chile's national flower, the scarlet Chilean bellflower (copihue).

Only a handful of Latin America's characteristic fauna are to be found in Chile. Larger (and very elusive) mammals include the puma and the cougar, while the llamalike guanacos and vicuñas, the Patagonian mountain deer known as a huemul, the vizcacha rodent, and cunning chilla fox are more visible. The pudu, the world's smallest deer, inhabits dense forest regions along with several other species of marsupial, but they are very difficult to spot. Chile's waters harbor a rich variety of fish and an abundance of marine species and waterfowl ranging from frolicking seals and sea lions to playful dolphins and sea otters, magnificent whales, and penguins.

Searching for Wildlife

Various animals in the forests here are predominantly nocturnal. When they are active in the daytime, they are usually elusive and on the watch for predators. Birds are easier to spot in clearings or secondary forests than they are in primary forests. The vast open spaces of the altiplano and immense steppe of Patagonia are especially conducive to wildlife-watching. In the Atacama region, many species -- flamingos, vicuñas, and guanacos -- are easily encountered close to water sources such as lagoons, lakes, and oases.

Here are a few helpful hints for wildlife-watching in Chile:

• Listen. Pay attention to rustling in the leaves; whether it's a Magellanic woodpecker in Torres del Paine National Park or a guanaco scurrying across the altiplano, you're most likely to hear an animal before seeing one.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

There are more options and resources out there than ever before for travelers with disabilities, and here in Chile it is increasingly common to see hotels and restaurants that are wheelchair-accessible. It's best to call ahead (especially with restaurants) to inquire about an establishment's facilities.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries to Chile for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com); Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com); and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com). Avis Rent a Car has an "Avis Access" program that offers such services as a dedicated 24-hour toll-free number (tel. 888/879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; and accessible bus service.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org).

AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports & Visas

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport to enter Chile. Chile charges a reciprocity fee upon entry for Australians and Mexicans.

Before entering Chile, you'll need to fill out a tourist card that allows visitors to stay for 90 days. Do not lose this card, as you will need to present it to Customs when leaving the country. Also, many hotels waive Chile's 19% sales tax applied to rooms when the guest shows this card and pays with U.S. dollars or a credit card. The easiest (and free) way to renew your 90-day stay is to cross the border and return. For $100, tourist cards can be renewed for another 90 days at the Extranjería, Matucana 1223, in Santiago (tel. 600/486-3000; www.extranjeria.gob.cl), open Tuesday through Friday from 11am to 2pm (be prepared for excruciatingly long lines), or at any Gobernación Provincial office in the provinces. The extension must be applied for 1 month before the visa's expiration date. Bring the original card, your passport, and photocopies of the two.

Contact the Chilean consulate closest to you for information about children under age 18 traveling alone, with one parent, or with a third party. Child abduction awareness is on the rise, and I've heard of Customs agents preventing parents traveling solo to or from Chile with children. Play it safe and travel with a written authorization by the absent parent(s) or legal guardian granting permission, which must be notarized by the consulate or a reputable notary.

Lost Documents—If you lose your tourist card outside Santiago, any police station will direct you to the Extranjería police headquarters for that province (usually the nearest principal city). In Santiago, go to the Policía Internacional, Departamento Fronteras, General Borgoña 1052 (tel. 2/565-7893), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm.

If you lose your passport, you can get a passport replacement at your country's embassy. The embassy might require you to file a constancia with the police, but without Spanish skills, this can be difficult; call ahead and ask if this document can be waived. It is imperative that you carry a photocopy of your passport with you and another form of ID to facilitate the process.

Passports—The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia—You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada—Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Dept. of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.cic.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport.

For Residents of Ireland—You can apply for a 10-year passport online at www.dfa.ie/passports/ or at the Passport Office at 42-47 Mount Street Lower, Dublin (tel. 01/671-1633). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 5-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand—You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom—To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0300/222-0000 or search its website at www.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States—Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring Into Chile—Any travel-related merchandise brought into Chile, such as personal effects or clothing, is not taxed. Visitors entering Chile may also bring in no more than 400 cigarettes, 500 grams of pipe tobacco, or 50 cigars, and 2.5 liters of alcoholic beverages per adult (ages 18 and up).

What You Can Take Home from Chile 
U.S. Citizens—Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back once every 30 days $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You will be charged a flat duty fee for the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Beyond that, any dollar amount is dutiable at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to have your receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay upon arrival in the United States by cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order, and in some locations, by Visa or MasterCard.

To avoid having to pay duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before you left on your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipt. Or register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking -- think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players—to avoid problems with Customs. Take the items to the nearest Customs office or register them with Customs at the airport from which you are departing. You will receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item. There is little chance that Customs will seriously question personal items, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, visit Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511).

Canadian Citizens—For a clear summary of Canadian rules, visit the I Declare online guide at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca (click on “Travellers,” then “More,” then “I Declare” in the blue box at lower left),  issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500).

U.K. Citizens—For information, contact HM Revenue & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.), or consult the website at www.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens—Can You Bring It In? is a helpful online guide available from the Australian Customs Services at www.homeaffairs.gov.au. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1261/960-196.

New Zealand Citizens—Most questions are answered on the New Zealand Customs Service website, www.customs.govt.nz. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 49/927-8036 or 0800/428-786).

Money

Currency

The unit of currency in Chile is the peso. The value of the peso has held steady at around 620 pesos to the American dollar and 880 pesos to the British pound; prices in this book are listed in U.S. dollars and pounds. Note: In Chile, the peso is indicated with "$" while amounts in U.S. dollars are preceded by "US$" or "$US." In this book, rates are quoted in U.S. dollars with just the "$," and pesos are quoted only rarely because of the high conversion rate. Bills come in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, and 20,000 pesos. There are currently six coins in circulation, in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, and 500 pesos; however, it's unusual to be issued 1 peso or even 5. In colloquial Spanish, Chileans frequently call 1,000 pesos a luca, as in "It cost cinco lucas" (5,000).

Chile levies a steep 19% VAT tax, called IVA (Impuesto al Valor Agregado) on all goods and services. Foreigners are exempt from the IVA tax when paying in dollars for hotel rooms and vacation packages; however, you might find this is not the case with low-budget hotels and hostels. Do a little math when offered a price in dollars as the peso rate might be cheaper due to a proprietor's improper or inflated exchange rate.

Carry small peso bills and coins with you when traveling around Chile, as corner shops, taxis, kiosks, and other small businesses rarely have change for anything over 5,000 pesos. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills, so that it's readily accessible and you'll be less of a target for theft.

ATMs

A Chilean ATM is known as a cajero automático, or more commonly as a Redbanc, which is advertised on a maroon-and-white sticker. Redbancs are compatible with a variety of networks, including Visa/Cirrus and MasterCard/PLUS. Before you travel, be sure your ATM can be used overseas and that you know your daily withdrawal limit. Note: Chilean banks do not charge a fee to use their ATMs, but your bank may impose a fee that can be higher for international transactions (up to $5/£3.30 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2/£1.30). For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. You'll find ATM Redbancs in banks, grocery stores, gas stations, and pharmacies.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are accepted at larger hotels but few other places, though they can be changed in most cities and towns. Some travelers feel safer carrying a few traveler's checks just in case, and they can be bought at most banks in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. Try American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for cardholders; the latter number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 or 866/339-3378, where AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee for checks up to $1,500); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920). Keep a record of the serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Traveler's checks, dollars, and euros can be exchanged at a casa de cambio (money-exchange house) for a small charge; casas de cambio are generally open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm (closed 1-3pm for lunch), and Saturday until 1pm.

Credit Cards

Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are widely accepted throughout Chile, and Diner's Club isn't far behind. Many Chilean businesses are charged a 2% to 4% service fee and will pass that cost on to you, so expect cheaper deals with cash. Smaller hostels and hotels often do not accept credit cards at all.

You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs (provided you know your PIN), but this is an expensive option considering that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Tips for Student Travelers

You'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on plane tickets and entrance fees in Chile. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.sta.com or www.statravel.com; or www.statravel.co.uk in the U.K.), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1600; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.