Twenty Seven Steps makes much of its site on New Regent Street, known for its quirky, charming Spanish-Mission architecture. Here, four adjoining first-floor spaces have been opened up, renovated, modernized, and enhanced to spectacular result. The glorious arched windows are not about the views but the space within: elegant in a non-fussy simplicity. The Seven Steps menu is in the same vein. Look for generous dishes such as a chargrilled Canterbury steak crusted with beef bone marrow or free-range poussin with faro, summer vegetables, and lemon cream as well as elegant desserts. Twenty Seven Steps also has an intriguing cocktail menu, good wines, and craft beers.